po18guy
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Posts posted by po18guy
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5 hours ago, docc said:
That looks to be Joe Kenney's work. He's a solid guy and makes great pieces.
Some of his stuff is on eBay.
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I will attempt to keep tally of how many are wanted. I will gladly pay in advance.
1. po18guy (2) springs.
2. Flooky (2) springs
3. Stumble_t (2)
4. PhillipLarsen (2)
5. MGrego (2)
6. 80CX100 (2)
7. Bob Maynard (2)
8. BelAir63 (2)
9. Motormike (2)
10. JBBenson (2)
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If you are wrench happy, you could swap the crossover and see.
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Doing fairly well, with 2 out of the 5 in my garage.
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1 hour ago, PJPR01 said:
Racing Red no less! 2 hp increase...sign me up!
You're right...these cables are long, and my current ones don't have anything to protect them from the cylinder heads....so a good option here.
After this great option above, I also got a lead from Curtis at Harper's...recommending the following wires as well, when I read the description at first I didn't think they'd work, so will have a backup set.
http://www.harpermoto.com/twin-coil-spark-plug-wire-set-t-and-newer.html
Might be mistaken, but the Guzzi OEM red wires are NGK. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.
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But 3.5mm case thickness. Of all the places for Guzzi to try to save weight!
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1 hour ago, SFTripod said:
Regarding Iridiums, maybe I shouldn't, but, I put them in all my vehicles....Z's like them, Guzzi like's them, even my '87 Jeep.
Guys, thanks for the feed back on the cables. This is what I was looking for. I'm getting ready to run extra grounds on the Rectifier, ECU & starter. I pull the 30amp when she's on the battery tender---looking at the Optimate instead of the Battery Tender----& fuse hasn't been caught melting like before.
Once again, thank you guys for all the feedback & pointers. My Baby has become such a beast;
New fork seals & fluid, fuel filter, BMC air filter, BIG oil change (engine, tran, final drive) with pan off to clean out any sediment, new NGK plug leads, new heat shielding under tank, ASV levers, carbon Mistral slipon's, & fresh rubber(Metzeler Z8's). Love that thing !
IMO, the older the engine design, the weaker the igntion system, the longer the plug leads - all are valid reasons to install Iridium plugs. I am hedging my bet, but I installed Autolite Iridium XS plugs to try out. Starting immediately improved. Visually, even engineering-wise, there is virtually no difference between them and NGK or ND. Except they are made in North America, there are no Chinese counterfeits running around and they are about $7/pair in the US. Sure beats $15/ea. Redline Motorsports in sunny South Carolina is blowing them out for the princely sum of $7.12 per pair w/free shipping. But, I also was patient and scored a pair of NGK Iridiums to have on hand.
Comparoing them to the OEM NGKs, it is easy to see that he spark is far less shrouded than with the standard plug. Perhaps there would not be as big a difference with carbs, but with the finely (haha!) metered MM injection, that mixture needs all the access to the spark that it can get.
Being familiar with Italian electrics since the late 60s, I might just take MotoLectric up on their cables.
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Here is the answer I received from MotoLectric:
We use plain copper because when put under multi-ton pressure the copper from the terminals grows into the copper of the wire and they merge into one mass.It’s called cold welding and is done in some other electrical industries.In a vacuum, you can actually put 2 flat pieces of copper together and they instantly merge and there is no 2 pieces anymore, they are now 1 piece.We have planned to document that that is why we use the bare copper but it is on a long list of tasks yet to be done.We actually coat the exposed copper with a Shield product that seals the surface.I have the details below.Tinned terminals and wire is less conductive as tin only flows 15% the current that copper will flow and the crimps are not as good as the tinned copper takes more pressure due to the hardness of the tin vs. copper. The lower current flow of the tin is not a super big deal but every little detail adds up and we want to make the best circuit upgrade we possibly can.———[Special shipping update / new version announcement -
We are constantly striving to improve our products and we were in the midst of revising the kits (slightly) and you are receiving the very latest design.
We now apply a new surface sealant during fabrication of the kit and it replaces the dielectric grease
- > (the grease is no longer included in the kit).
We found that some riders were forgetting to apply the grease and just leaving the copper bare.
This coincides with our product name change to
HICAP•SCDC
High Capacity • Sealed Current Distribution Circuit
This new high technology treatment seals the copper surfaces against harsh environments and so the circuit is 100% sealed.
The new version kit has a colored tiewrap through a positive terminal hole because although the chemical is blue in quantity, the treatment is invisible after it bonds to the metal.———Thanks,
M./
Michael Heth
1 (415) 992-7840-
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Since electrons flow on the surface of the wire, could tarnishing or corrosion limit that? Maybe that is what they meant? I recall here also that the cheapest vendor is used on almost all ancillary components and battery lead wires are not likely to be an exception. I also see no tin plating, but perhaps a swab of NoCo or other similar corrosion preventative would do the trick? I have emailed them to see what they say.
https://motolectric.com/makes/moto_guzzi.html
As to starting in 'one second', well, they are clearly used to port injection. The V11 throttle body injectors squirt quite a ways upstream from the chambers. So far, the best starting aid I have found is Iridium plugs. Noticeably better.
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A little retro-thinking here about the tranny crack. From the location and direction of the crack, could it be that the torque being transmitted "stretched" the case as the final output is trying to pull the case away from the mount? A 3.5mm thickness next to the mount boss seems almost certain to go at some point, what with the torque pulses softly hammering away on the alloy.
I'm new to MG but one thing immediatley noticeable is that the torque impulses are not resolved into the frame as with transverse engines. Rather than lifting the frame, it is a twisting force. But, I'm a noob, so my thinking may be skewed here.
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A bit - OK a big bit - of a stretch, but for the mechanically minded with cash to spare, an '04 Cafe Sport in San Fran for $3500obo with full Ôhlins. Does not look bad, and with 24k (if true), still a relatively fresh bike. Would love to buy it, swap suspension and sell it with my Marzocchi/Sachs bits on it.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/d/san-francisco-2004-moto-guzzi-v11-cafe/7013378638.html
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It almost seems like Guzzi designed the entire bike and then thought, "Oh crap! We forgot the coils! Well, the only space left is up front, so we'll just use 1 meter cables." Scenario:
Officer: "I was going to let you off with a warning, but I see you're using RACING plug wires!"
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I think this is why high-mount cans are a good thing. They rise above all the action - suspension action, that is.
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57 minutes ago, Kane said:
My concern was how on earth my overall clean bike got such an impact as to tweak the bracket so much and what to do about it.
Easy:
1. That impact occurred by design at the factory.
2. Nothing.
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49 minutes ago, Kane said:
Thanks guys for your insights and recommendations. Someone else also told me the left side bracket was bent, and even the tabs on the seat frame section that the brackets bolt to look to have angles that are off from each other. This bike is fairly new to me, but I don’t see any signs of it being crashed. How easy is it for this stuff to get bent or tweaked? surely not from the bike just falling over? Or are these discrepancies that fall within the margin of error for ‘01 era bikes coming out of the factory? The exhaust system seems fine, the pipes and cans don’t appear to have dings, bad joints/connections, leaks. It’s bugging me a little to try to understand how this is.
Welcome to Guzzi! It's a matter of understanding the Latin mindset. To paraphrase the old joke about the Italian driver pulling the rear view mirror off his car and tossing it in the back set: "What'sa behind me, I no care about"
Of note here is that the brackets on the Staintune cans on my Ballabio are at different angels.
Note the swingarm on this custom. The pic clearly shows that the wheel is centered but the drive requires that the right side of the swingarm and all around it has to be kicked out for clearance.
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They were probably seeking a feather in their hat rather than a money pit. Aprilia had done a lot of heavy lifting for them and they appear to be coasting on the "Italian Harley" theme - as profane as that is.
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On 10/30/2019 at 8:22 AM, ani said:
"Gråkråkan" (grey crow) in swedish, or "L'aquila griglia" in it's mother tongue.
They may be big girls, but they know how to dance. Oh, and can they sing!
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14 hours ago, Kane said:
On my ‘01 V11 the brackets that hold the passenger footpegs and hang the mufflers have different bent angles from each other. You can see in the pic that the left side bracket has a flatter profile and bends in closer to the bike. Looking at this it seems like the bracket may have somehow been bent or pushed into the bike and distorted. Does this look normal, i.e., the brackets are shaped differently from each other, or does the left side look bent or off?
Thank you
If you notice, the wheel is not exactly centered in the swingarm. The drive unit on the right protrudes further than the brake does on the left. So, the pegs have to move outward to make clearance for swingarm travel. Somewhat like the Lord, the Italians write straight using crooked lines.
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Try a pair of these: NGK CR6 individual wires. About $18/per. 5K resistance cap. Other specs are on the eBay listing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NGK-Racing-Wire-90deg-Solid-Resistor-Cover-100cm-90-100cm-8736-N-CR6/333270758936?epid=171310303&hash=item4d987c3618:g:kyQAAOSwv7BdMMC8
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37 minutes ago, gstallons said:
That is the only thing I've seen Tridon in the US .
I seem to recall they were Canadian blades. It seems to me that all that matters is the mounting thread diameter and pitch and the minimum pressure required to make/break contact. I see that Rock Auto offers a lifetime warranty on their units. Question is, which one fits and functions?
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On 11/15/2019 at 6:32 PM, milar said:
The triple crown! A family portrait including grandpa, son and grandson.
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7 minutes ago, Locky said:
Wow that was quick - Im trying to setup an account with these guys you recommend - $11 dollars for a year seems cheaper than a lollipop. Will be doing my best to master the tech. Grazie again Locky
+1. Far easier and better to create, manage and upload than all others I have sampled.
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Tridon wiper blade refills are common in the states.
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On 4/10/2018 at 1:40 PM, Chuck said:
From memory.. always dangerous with me.. it is the metal gear that fails. Back in the day, Greg Field posted a method of cutting a window in the case, lubricating the gears, and closing it up. It supposedly fixed it. There used to be a tutorial on WG, but it left with a server crash..
I was just echoing what has gone before. Don't know any X-ray techs, so we're stuck for the time being.
One possibility might be to contact the guys who work on air-cooled VWs. The odos in Beetle And Super Beetle gauges fail constantly.
Stucchi vs. Mistral crossover
in Technical Topics
Posted
Browsing around, I stumbled onto Agostini Mandello and they offer this crossover for $275 plus, you know. Anyone know who makes it? Sadly, it looks likely to crack.