80CX100
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Posts posted by 80CX100
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On 3/9/2018 at 12:01 AM, Meinolf said:
Hi,
it's easy. Instead of changing the CO trim with GuzziDiag connected to the running engine and waiting until the engine temperature has reached 60°C, download the EEPROM content using Beard's software http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/IAW15xEEPROMTool_V0.04.zip.
Then open the EEPROM file with TunerPro and this XDF http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/xdf/15M_EEPROM_V1.01.zip.
Change the CO trim and upload the changed file to the EEPROM. Donate some money to Beard using the PayPal link in GuzziDiag and it's done.
Cheers
Meinolf
I like many others guzzi owners in the world am extremely grateful for the knowledge,work and expertise that has gone into guzzidiag in support of the guzzi global community.
I would like to be able to make a donation in appreciation of that kindness, but I've ripped through the site on the a/m links, and I haven't been able to locate a paypal button.
Would you have a link that could take take me straight to a paypal button on that page.
Tks very much
Kelly
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I'm definitely not a techno weanie, but I jumped into guzzidiag this spring and tuned my Griso first then my California Vintage.
It took me quite a while to get a full connection and reading properly.
When I first connected, I could see the ECU? but not the full details, took me a while to figure out my mistake. (sounds like you may be stuck at the same place?)
Make sure that you have Guzzidiag loaded & running, but also make sure that you have the correct reader & writer drivers loaded and driver for the Lonelec Cable.
Once I remembered to launch the additional drivers, I was completely into the ECU and could see everything.
Once it was fully connected it was very intuitive.
The Griso was a piece of cake, totally adjustable with guzzidiag.
The TPS on the CalVin still had to be adjusted with a meter. I'm not sure but I think the process on the V11s is similar to this?
Good luck with it.
Kelly
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8 hours ago, Admin Jaap said:
Scissor jack under the sump, some wooden blocks under the sideplates and then strap it down from the cylinders. And as an extra safety measure a strap over the saddle. (use padding) They do that on some ferries too. If you have it set up, show us a pic!
Tks Jaap, Wood blocks should do it, I love the voice of experience.
Due to time constraints, I'm abandoning plans to change the tires this fall, and am just going to get new fluids in the bike and hopefully get a few rides in before I set it up for the winter.
I will make sure to update this post later with photos, so there is a record in case others are looking for the same solution.
tks very much
Kelly
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On 10/22/2019 at 7:07 PM, po18guy said:
A 1987 EX500A1 (GPz500S) that I bought from my BIL for $450 in 1999. He fell down at about 20mph in a paving area and never rode again. A few things straightened out and here she is. I put Progressive springs in the forks, tapered rollers in the steering head, jet kit/K&N, additional airbox snorkel, some well-made and long-lived Cobra F1 slipons and later on, a pair of WebCam 245 hard-weld cams. Dang near the ideal commuter bike, as it is quick enough to stay well ahead of traffic and the engine has a sweet spot at about 7K or 80mph/120kph. I know it will do 120mph. If it would do 121, I'd tell you. Actually a pretty roomy bike for 500cc, as the wheelbase is only 2" shorter than my Ballabio.
Very nice bike.
43 yrs ago my very first street bike, a KZ400, was a grandfather to this model.
I volunteer with the VRRA (vintage road racing association), that model bike is one of their favorite track bikes.
Recently one of the best engine builders, Jamie Barkley? had a "very" worked on EX500 track bike for sale; I forget all the engine work and power numbers, but what was very impressive and would make it a blast to ride; he had the weight down to 325 lbs.
They have a reputation for being an excellent, reliable, very easy to live with race bike.
Enjoy it, it looks like a sweet ride.
Kelly
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16 hours ago, Chuck said:
Using the work stand lets you remove the rear wheel.
Hey Chuck, I'm interested in what you mean by using a work stand to remove the rear wheel.
I was shocked how rear biased the weight seemed to be on the bike when I had it up with the scissor jack under sump.
As I attempted to pull out the rear wheel drop plate on my lift, I could feel the bike really trying to drop down in that hole. I was lucky to get the plate back in and avert disaster.
I think securing the cylinders and scissor jack under the sump will work, but I'd love to have some real support under the rearward portion of the bike, rather than just depend on the cantilever effect of the straps pulling down in front of the jack, if I could mcgyver something.
Kelly
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3 hours ago, Chuck said:
Removing the fairing is a piece of cake. You can tie it down with Canyon Dancers, or some such if you don't want to remove it. Using the work stand lets you remove the rear wheel. To remove the front, put the rear in the vise on your lift.. you *do* have one, don't you.. tie it down in back and raise the front with a jack under the pan.
I have a set of those Canyon Dancer straps that the PO graciously donated, it was the only way I could secure the bike in the wheel chock to get it home, they work well when the wheels are on the bike and sitting down on the table, with the front wheel in the vise; the problem, and it's one I've always struggled with, is transitioning to a secure position so I can remove both wheels to change the tires.
Once I get the front wheel up in the air to remove it, those handlebar straps flop around way too much for my liking, fwiw.
I've done the reverse the bike move to lock the rear wheel in the vise, which works well if I'm only taking the front wheel off, but something I've always struggled with, is that transition to secure it to enable both wheels to be removed, especially for tire changes.
I've been through the experience of having a bike fall off the lift once, thankfully only at floor level, so I'm very gun shy at this point, I double, triple check every step of the way now.
I think that Jaap's suggestion of strapping the cylinders (cold) and the scissor jack, will get me to where I want to be.
Tks to everyone for passing on their knowledge and suggestions.
Kelly
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4 hours ago, Admin Jaap said:
Is it possible to tie it down from the cylinders?
Now that is thinking outside the box, but I like it.
I usually like to tie my bikes down, in such a way, that if want to start it up at the end I don't have to worry about heat touching my straps, but I definitely could make it secure wrapping straps around the cylinders when it's cold.
Tks very much
Kelly
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3 hours ago, footgoose said:
if you have access to rafters, I have used ratchet straps to tie off above, and suspend the bike. also, if you've not done it, removing the fairing is easier than one might think. that puts it out of the way and safe.
Very interesting; as I go through the bike, I'm beginning to distrust anything the previous owner said or did. One thing I know he did do, is remove/reinstall the fairing, that'll give me a good opportunity to verify that work.
Any tips or tricks to getting the fairing off? I learned about Suzki's magical plastic fastening system on my Vstrom AFTER I broke a few figuring out how they worked, ignorance isn't bliss,lol.
I don't have access to rafters, but because I have to crab a frame on another bike at some point, I've already considered attaching some type of overhead rigging frame to my lift table.
If you suspend the bike from above, where would you attach to the rear of the bike, remove the seat and use the upper frame rails? or would you hook into the frame around the rear foot pegs or side plates?
Where would you attach at the front, fork tubes under the triple clamp? or down around the front frame down tubes near the header pipes?
Tks very much for the info
Kelly
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Normally on my guzzis once I get them up on the lift table I secure them with tie downs anchored side to side, Front & back.
If I'm planning to remove the wheels, I'll tie them off the same way, but also put them up on the center stand and use a scissor jack to get the front wheel high enough to remove.
Due to the plastic on the V11 Lemans, I'm having a very tough time getting good secure spots to tie it down, and without a center stand the weight seems too far back and as I raise it on the scissor jack under the sump, it feels like the bike wants to flip over backwards.
The manual describes placing a jack stand under the swing arm to hold it up, but that is covered with a flimsy looking plastic trim piece.
Is there a simple method of tying it down and lifting it securely that I'm missing, or do you have to start removing plastic trim pieces to do that.
I did a couple of searches and wasn't finding much info on it.
tia
Kelly
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7 hours ago, Pressureangle said:
Having looked at all shipping options, there is a considerable savings in using a padded priority envelope for these plates, particularly for international buyers. I'll offer that up as your option, and the plates are stiff and durable but there is always some small chance of getting bent. To those who have already paid but not received, let me know your preference and if you'd like to go with the padded envelope I'll refund the difference.
Hey Eric, For myself, if you've already got small shipping boxes for them, go ahead and send mine like that.
If you don't have shipping boxes already, and it can be easily placed in a padded envelope, with cardboard/bubble wrap? That works for me too, and I'll roll the dice with USPS and Canada Post, I'm not worried about any money back from the difference in cost; I'm very grateful that you're doing this.
Tks very much
Kelly
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Hey Eric, I was following the other Redux thread; I just wanted to confirm that you received my paypal to your email a few days ago.
Please just send me a pm if it went through ok. Definitely no rush, I just wanted to confirm it wasn't lost in cyber space,lol.
Tks very much to you and everyone else involved to see it through to the end.
Kelly
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Hey Chuck, If another batch of the improved springs ever gets done, definitely count me in for 2,,, one for the tranny,,, and to keep it from breaking,,, another one for the tool kit,lol.
Hey po18guy; I agree with you,,, that was a major thread to digest,,, but what a glowing testament to the guzzi community, and the lengths that they will go to, to help each other.
Kelly
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On 4/13/2019 at 7:55 AM, Meinolf said:
Hi,
here's a complete breakout cable: http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=853
Cheers
MeinolfAs I work through the info here learning what I'll need to keep my new to me V11 Lemans going, I read this thread and saw this break out cable.
The question I have for those in the know; I'm relatively new at working on EFI ECU bikes, but recently tuned both the Griso and the California Vintage.
The Griso was comparatively easier, because I could adjust the TPS right in the ECU with GuzziDiag; but I found setting the TPS using strands of copper wire inserted in the TPS connection on the CalVin to be a bit of a pita to take the readings with my voltmeter.
I'm assuming this little break out cable would make that much easier to do.
Will it fit and work on my Cal Vin as well as the V11?
Tia
Kelly
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1 hour ago, footgoose said:
welcome Kelly, until you get a "new" forum spring, be sure to carry an extra old one. it work's as a talisman to keep the other from breaking! There's also a thread somewhere for roadside repair of a broken spring. just in case
Hey Footgoose, Tks very much; I'm making up a to do and parts list, but that's definitely the plan.
I'd love to end up with a good one in the bike and a "talisman" spare in the toolkit; just to keep Murphy at bay,lol.
Kelly
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Just thinking out loud,,, do some of the V11's suffer from the disintegrating fuel lines inside the tank like some of the later guzzis?
Hope your gremlin is gone for good,,, or at least returns at a more convenient time.
Good luck with it
Kelly
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I realize I'm late to the party on this one, but if anyone, particularly in Canada ended up a spring to spare from this batch, please pm me
I'd love to have one on hand in case my new to me, 2002 Lemans throws a hissy fit.
I may start another thread at some point, but from what I've learned on this thread, is that the larger 16 mm spring boss in the later models is contributing to spring failure.
Would it be a good game plan to open up the tranny, verify and reduce that spring boss if needed to 15 mm as a preventative measure,,, not matter what new spring I have in hand?
Tia
Kelly
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I'm a little late into the game with this V11Lemans, so I missed out on the recent Skud/Chuck tranny spring fix, but I'm not missing out on this,lol.
Tks to all involved who enabled Pete's fine work to continue on; what a lovely looking piece of kit.
I haven't watched Dave's video yet (tks for posting) I realize the gaskets that I need as well, I thought I remembered reading something somewhere about "o rings" possibly being needed?
Pressureangle, I'll send you a pm with details for shipping to Canada. It;s my first pm on this system, hope it goes through ok.
Tks
Kelly
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Hey Dave, I ended up picking up that 2003 V11 Lemans that I was musing about on WG a while back.
While getting info together for a "to do" list on this bike, I stumbled on this thread and recalled you mentioning there may be a deal in the works on the on the Roper plates.
Here I am in all my glory as a new forum member,lol.
Please add my name to the list for a Roper plate order.
Tks to you for taking this on, and to Pete, as always, doing what's right to help us keep these guzzis running well and reliably.
Tia Kelly White
ps I know it didn't happen if there's no pictures, so fwiw
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Set your V11 CO Fuel Trim!
in How to...
Posted
Hey Chuck, I've ripped through the site, even manually entered https://www.von-der-salierburg.de/home in the address bar, I'm not seeing it.
I recall seeing it when I first did the download.
I wasn't confident in my ability to download and get the program running, made a mental note to myself that if I got it downloaded and running, I'd return and donate.
It took me a few months, but now when I go back, I can't seem to find it?
Tks
Kelly