Sam P

OK tomorrow morning I'll reconnect the original reg ground (leaving my new one in place) and inspect the main ground from the gearbox all the way to the battery. Then I'll see the charging and oil light come on when I turn the key. I also may fire it up and take a 5 min ride around the neighborhood to see if anything has changed. If not I'll pull off the tank. Stay tuned, and thank you again for all of your help!

Well it's intact at the gearbox, but I haven't inspected the wire all the way to battery -. I could do that if you'd recommend it....

Yes R-G is the old reg to batt + charging wire. If I remember correctly, the black wire is/was the regulator ground back to battery -. Since I ran a new 10AWG ground from the reg case mounting screw to the timing case, I assumed I could cap the old ground wire. I could of course reconnect it if needed.

1.1 ohm with DMM set at 200 ohm 0 ohm with DMM set at 2K ohm

So I did both tests from Relay 2 (blue wire to instruments and black wire to regulator) with the bullet connectors pulled apart, i.e. not connected to each other. Would this have made a difference? Sorry but I really need to be spoon fed on this, and I appreciate your patience and understanding.

DMM reads 1 at all Ohm values on the dial

2000 ohm setting on the DMM is the same as the 200 setting, i.e. 15. The 20K ohm setting yields a reading of 0.01 The 200K ohm setting reads zero. Not sure what this all means....

With ohm meter set at 200, I got 15 ohms, between the blue wire and the center terminal pictured below. What does this mean? I know it's very basic but my electrical knowledge is poor. (If you meant by "center terminal" the terminal centered below my arrow, the resistance there was zero).

OK will try this tomorrow and report back. From a quick look at the wiring diagram, it looks like the Oil Pressure blue/black wire leads from the instrument light panel to a 12-way Amp connector. Assume I could get the multimeter needle into the connector, or would I need to remove the wire to take the reading? Haven't looked at the actual connector yet, just the diagram.....

Wiggling the key (turned on) and then the harness attachments to regulator didn't activate any dashboard lights. I was going to open up the dash to see if there were any loose connections or corrosion inside. Any tips on how to get in there? The three 3mm hex fasteners feel like they may be stripped....

Quoting myself here, the output from the reg at idle and when revved is only 3-6 vdc. Took this reading at the butt crimp connector from the red reg output wire to the 10AWG wire to the battery +, with the inline 30A fuse removed. NOT CHARGING. Now, on to troubleshooting the dashboard lights.....

Oil light never turned on iirc, since I have owned the bike. The battery was at 13v key off this morning, after being on the tender overnight. You are saying this is flat?

Well the DMM reads 12.3vDC at the battery terminals, at idle and when revved. Now I'm not sure if that's volts coming from the regulator, or if it's reading the current from the battery. The low fuel light was working prior to this "no charging" issue, but I have a few gallons in the tank now, which I suppose I could siphon out to see if the light turns on. Oil light has never turned on, but then the oil has always been full. Tach is working properly.

Yesterday I checked and cleaned all the battery connections and they are good. My F3 is now bypassed with a new 10AWG wire - with inline 30A fuse - from battery + to the two red wires at the regulator.

Wow, thank you. I am indeed a novice! Will look into this tomorrow.

Answers to your questions in BOLD above. Thank you.

I just cleaned up this connector with Deoxit. Fired up the engine and am still seeing only 12.3vdc at the battery. Thought I should check the output voltage from the reg/rec going into this connection, which I have not done yet. What should the voltage be at idle and with some revs? If the voltage is not good, then the rec/rec is malfunctioning, correct? (I have tested the AC voltage from the stator yellow wires, and it looked OK).

@LaGrasta still troubleshooting my charging issue in the separate thread I started on September 12. I have a question for you regarding the direct wire from the reg/rec to the battery +, since I have installed this as well, and I am thinking the way I did it may be causing problems with the charging light. In the attached wiring diagram, where I have made some notations, if you run a new wire direct from the reg/rec to the battery +, I assume you are disconnecting the red/green wire (see my arrow #1 in the diagram) which runs from the reg/rec to the 30A fuse (F3). Correct? So my question is, when you eliminate power to Fuse 3, you also eliminate power to the other side of the fuse (see my arrow #2), correct? If I am right so far, then trace the wire from the output of fuse 3 down to my arrow #3, where it connects to the yellow/black wire going back up to fuses 4 and 5, at my arrow #4. These fuses are for the ignition switch, headlight, start, stop. So my concern is how to these things get power, since your mod seems to have eliminated power to Fuse 3?

Answers in above quote in BOLD

The 26v reading at the battery earlier in this thread was not repeatable on a number of subsequent readings, which were all at 12.3v at idle and revved to 3K. In hindsight I should have made this more clear. Sorry for the confusion.

Well I do 99% of my www activity from an iPad - no right click available, lol! I will continue to troubleshoot and report back. Crap, glad I have my Quota to ride while the much more fun V11S is under repair. It's a beautiful time to ride here in Colorado.

When you say "Do the troubleshooting as I described" I assume you are referring to your post a few hours ago in which you linked the workshop manual from Guzzitech.com? Or, are you referring to the Electrosport flow chart you linked I believe yesterday? (I wish this otherwise excellent forum had sequential numbers on the posts in the subforums, maybe @Admin Jaap could do it? Numbered post are easy to reference, of course).

Thank you for this. That troubleshooting flow chart is also on the Electrosport website, and I hesitated using it until I could get some opinions here on the forum. I am awaiting a reply on the most recent suggestion from @gstallons, and depending on his reply I will go ahead and proceed with the linked troubleshooting guide.

Just to be clear, are you suggesting that a faulty charge light circuit could be causing the low voltage output from the regulator? If so I will go through your troubleshooting recommendation. This morning I made new butt connections on the stator to regulator yellow wires, and the DC voltage from the regulator is still only 12.3v at idle, and does not increase when revved up.

Had this 2001 since February. Found it with only 6K miles. Rode it another 6K since then and love it. Currently having some electrical issues, which I'm sure will get sorted out before too long.