nuevototem

Jaap, JA JA, u are right, I reach the "boiling point" in my job every 3 days But to be honest my biggest worry was not that u were angry with me when I red the e-mail. My biggest worry was that u decide to unplug the site. Best regards to you and everyone in this forum! Nuevototem.-

Hi to all, I have more news about this problem. 1) The Citroen ZX have the Valeo starter, you have to only change the cover and is OK. 2) I take the battery for a charge and they found that it is dead. Now I don’t know if the problem is related to: 1) The battery. 2) The starter. 3) A short circuit in the bike. 4) George Bush. 5) Something else… Best regards,

Thanks people 4 your answers! I live in Barcelona so I will check the Europe dealers. I think is interesting the FIAT way... will check if I can fix mine. Best regards,

Hi to all, Yesterday the starter of my lovely V11 died. I will try to fix it but don’t now... Anyone knows a please to buy a new or used one? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Hi to all, Thanks for your answer. JoeV11 & jrt: u use the stucchi with standard cans? Noise better??? Paul: Yes I welded but something inside is making a horrible noise! Don’t know if open it and take that out or buy a new one. To everyone: What about the mistral xover + cans??? price??? Where I can find a cheap stucchi in europe? Thanks in advance!

Hi to all, I have break down my standard xover!!! Now is making a horrible noise, some kind of metal is making noise inside! I don’t know what to do... I am thinking to buy a new one... standard, mistral, stucchi??? Any one in europe whant to sell one? Any ideas? Thanks in advance

pShenk I have to replace it today too. My mechanic told me to simply unscrew it. CYA!

Hi to all, Looks like the problem is the blue nuts are upside down. I put it wrong one month ago when I change the oil. I will change back and tell you guys the results. By the way my spacers are 121 mm 4,76 inches , and I never feel the forks reach the bottom. Best regards,

Hi to all, Thanks for your help boys! Please any can share a photo with the blue nut in the right way? I need confirmation that this is the problem. Anyone can confirm? Thanks in advance,

Hi to all, ratchethack you don’t need to apologies for helping people out! More in my investigation now I add a little rubber (I take it from a those pencils with rubber) of 12mm more or less. I test it and works OK! So I don’t know what wrong here but I can’t push the blue nut more because there is no more threads. I don’t remember if this was this way when I take it out it one month ago. I did not take pictures. Anyway now I know how to make fine tuning to the compression and rebound. Best regards.

Hi to all, ratchethack thanks again for your help. As you can see in the photo the blue nut is already at the max of the threads. I mean I can not turn down the blue nut any more. Is the same in yours? or the threads have more route? Thanks in advance,

Hi to all, I take some measurements: Hi to all, I found that there is a difference of 14.5mm (0.57 inches) between the end of the B part (see picture in the manual) and the bottom of adjuster screw. Is this normal? The other leg is the same. Best regards,

Hi to all, Ratchethack my forks are not like yours. Is a 40mm but I don’t have preload adjust, only compression and rebound (16 cliks each). I have disarmed all the forks like in the manual and left the parts leak overnight. You can see in the next picture that there is no preload regulation. Best regards,

Hi to all, I am today changing the fork oil of my MG V11 Sport 2002-2003. I already do it 1 month ago but the forks did fell very soft. And the changes on the regulator screws did like nothing. So from the softer position to the harder one ther is no much difernece. I did the exactly the manual presses and add 400cc of Castrol 10 SAE Fork Oil. My mechanic told me that the Oil must be wrong, so I am changing it now. Any suggestion or advice folks? Thanks in advance,

Hi Ouiji Veck, I have the same forks that u have. I sugest u to read the workshop manual. U have there all the info about them. Best regards,

Hi to all, Thanks for your help in this matter! I am thinking to change the relays because I found them starting to fail Any recommendation were to buy them in Europe? Thanks in advance

Hi to all, Thanks guzziownr and Guzzirider for your links! I am checking them out. Gary Cheek. Yes, is interesting to buy yours if is cheap of course. 1) Why you change it for the Bosh one? 2) Can you confirm is a D6RA210 one? 3) I leave in Barcelona Spain were are you? Best regards.

Hi to all, For some time I have starting problems with my bike, always suppose that was an electric problem related to the relays. A few days ago I start hearing a disturbing noise from inside the electric starter motor. I take it apart to check it out and this is what I find... Can you help me guys? Were can I find a new Valeo D6RA210? I live in Barcelona Spain. Thanks in advance,

Hi to all, Witch is the best way to lubricate the speedometer cable? I never do it before and I have noticed lately a little shake in the needle at low speed Regards,

Hi to all, I just adjust for the first time the valves of my V11 but I am not satisfied with my work. 1) How much NM or ft/ LB do you tighten the lock nut "C" (WORKSHOP MANUAL: Page: 76) 2) How do you maintain the adjustment screw “D” in position while you tighten the lock nut "C"? 3) Any suggestion to do it "perfect"? Thanks in advance

Hi, “So now we want to know which bearing it was picture? the balls we out?” Sorry no camera here… but the bearing was the one that is at the end of one of the 2 secondary shafts. And yes the balls blow away… Any answer or idea to my last post? Thanks!

Hi!!! OK now I finished dissembling the gearbox! I confirm that the problem was a that one of the bearings blow. Looks like there was a oxidize problem so I decide to change the 9 bearings and the 2 (don’t know the name in English to the plastic ring that keep the oil inside the gearbox so don’t get out to the clutch or to the shaft) I will change all this because I don’t want any more problems on the gearbox. Total cost more or less 400 euros. Please any know how to take out the “plastic rings” and the bearings inside the gearbox? My mechanic told me that I can use the furnace? Did any of you try it out? Thanks to all! Thanks Paul Minnaert for your quick answers!

Hi to all, With a friend we take out the engine and the gearbox!!! INCREIDIBLE!!! Well now I am on the page 338 of the mechanic manual with the special tool Nº01 91 38 30 but I can’t take out the “L” or “l” ring nut!!! I see that the washer (like a star) behind have like a small part looking the ring nut. Do any know how to take it out? Thanks in advance!

Hi Paul, Thanks for the info. I can add that I do the services myself so I think that I can call myself an amateur mechanic. I have a few questions for you: 1) “The first money saving is done when you take it out of the bike yourself” I check the repair manual and found that it is necessary to have the Central auxiliary stand, Do I need something else? Do you have any guide or recommendation? 2) “I did open one” I see that you push the Guzzis to the limits. I am very disappointed with this problem, Witch problems did you have with the gearbox? Can I consider it reliable? I have only bad luck? 3) “There is a guy in Norway who sells a toolkit to make things easy” What do you mean? To dissemble the gearbox? Thanks in advance!

bigbikerrick 1) How did your gear lubricant look when you drained it? Was it milky looking? 2) Do you ride in the rain allot? 1) Yes off course it looks milky. 2) No I do not ride in rain. When there is rain I use my ´79 VESPA. I will post all the updates of this issue and will try to put pics also. To all Did any make a repair to the gearbox himself? I check the repair manual and looks really complicated and looks like we have to buy some special tools. Is over there some guide to do this? Thanks!