Garsdad

I changed my spring as a preemptive strike, so I wouldn't have to do it alongside the road somewhere. I have the 16mm boss, but the clearance of my replacement spring on the 16 is greater than the clearance of the original spring would have been on a 15mm, so I didn't change the boss. There is no chance of binding. I am too cheap to spend $78 for a shift pawl arm unless I needed it.

Dirtbeard of the Popes of Hell MC... Not bad for a clean-shaving athiest!

I love mine. Of course, it came with them and I don't know what it would be like without them. I'm 6' + and don't have any leg issues on this bike.

Never spend time contemplating the mundane LeMans name... you are a TENNI owner. Anything less than a TENNI is just a lemans and not worthy of contemplation.

I'll send you pics of mine if it will make you feel better...

I was trying to find button head fittings to make it easier to get the grease gun on the fitting, but I have not found what I am looking for yet. Has anyone switched fittings? Ryan

A true beauty, and rare as well...

Check your spark plug leads. A crack or corrosion here can force the spark to arc the gap. It makes the coils heat up and shut down. I drove a truck home 186 miles 20 at a time due to this. Couldn't figure it out until I was able to put a meter to the coil lead once I got home.

Buy it! Give it a loving home!

I think they used to be called "TT"s here in America, and were part of the flat track series.

I checked with my local dealer, and the rachet arm was about $78. I checked my new spring- stronger wire, bigger loop- agianst the old post and there is no binding at all. Actually, I have more clearance with this new spring on a 16mm post than I would have had with the old spring on a 15mm post. I just used the old pawl. Time will tell, but seeing is believing and I have no doubts about my repair. As to putting it back together, I have pics on my old post and there are others that will guide you. The main thing is the index dots line up when you are in second, not neutral. If you have a digital camera take a pick when you remove the cover and use it as a guide. Good luck.

Dude, the spring is like, $5, and it takes a couple of hours max to do the deed. Having the chance to do it in my garage or being forced to carry a spare with me and all the tools every time I leave the house, so I could fix it on the road? No question- fix it now and just ride. Any mechanic that would recommend you ride it until it breaks to save money owns the local towing company and hopes you will have to call... No repair is cheaper in an emergency than as a planned proceedure. Do it now.

I have to say I have been a lazy ass and have not posted my cheap alternative. I tried using bearings, but the old bushes had rounded out my bores to just a hair over 30mm, so the bearings slid right in... and out. I found that the handlebar bushings for a Harley Sportster would work. I pulled the rubber, etc off the inner sleeve of the old bushing and trimmed the new bushing to size with my bench grinder. I shortened the inside edge a bit and ground the outside down to fit between the "ears" on the bevel-box and frame. So far it works well, and only cost me $18 and a little labor. At some point I will make a torque arm out of aluminum tube and heim joints, but for now this works and saves me $$$$. I used Biker's Choice handlebar bushing kit for 73-99 Sportsters. Harley bushings and Buel pegs... does this mean I have to wear a beanie helmet and will start thinking of Starbucks as a day's ride away? Ryan

Anything less than a Tenni is just a LeMans! Welcome.

Dude, WHEN I am ready to do the exhaust, this is a viable option for me. However, since the total bill will have to include a PC3, and I do't have an extra $1000 laying around right now, I won't be ordering. You shouldn't be surprised that a group of guys scattered all over the world aren't all ready to replace their exhaust at the exact moment you are offering a deal! When I am ready, I'll check with you and if you have any at a competetive price, I might be a player, but unless you are willing to buy them in a large enough lot to get a price break, and stock them until the V11 world is ready to buy, I don't think you will be able to put together a group in a timely manner.

I have beed trying to come up with a useable solution to the problem that didn't involve putting the same prone-to-failure parts back in my bike. I have about 2,000 miles and the torque arm slides off the bushing and rubs on the rear housing. I have a few options, but none of them involve the use of rubberized bushings. Which brings up a concern. Is there a need for the rubber to isolate vibration, or was this simply cheaper than a real bearing and was this the reason it was used? If there is no shock or vibration damping needed, a simple aluminum pipe with a heim joint on each end will suffice, or a pair of appropriately sized sealed bearing pressed into the arm would be fine and cheap. Opinions? Ryan

no clue what it is, but to my eye it looks like those forks are set up for a disk brake- the drum hub and wheel should not be there. It almost looks like a mountain bike fork...

start with the leads from coil to plug. In the wet of the PNW, this is a common trouble area if you ride at all in the rain. Had a 4-cyl that would become a twin at the most inappropriate moments due to this, and a tripple that was stumbling and running roughly- looked down one night as it was missing and it looked like a thunderstorm between two of the leads and the head. They can corrode inside the cap, so it looks fine but won't pass a spark. Good Luck, Garsdad

Thank you for your generous offer- I may take you up on that if I can't get this dialed in without it. The 16M has a screw that you can use to richen up your mixture across the board. Our 15M bikes don't have this; you have to use the shop computer. This begs the question- is there a cable and software so I could use my laptop to fine-tune the 15M? Ryan

I have set my valves, set my TPS, balanced and syncronized my throttle bodies, and the Tenni, she pings. Not trusting myself, I took her to Cascade Moto, and Kelly checked her over- everything is perfect, and still she pings. Not the usual "pull the throttle to the stops from idle and of course she pings" stuff, but easing into the throttle at 4500rpm in 2nd gear and she pings kind of thing. Runing to redline in third, and she is pinging all the way kind of thing. Yes, I run premium fuel, although in winter it is "oxygenated" it happens in the summer, too. I thought lower temps might help, but the cold, dense air seems to exagerate the lean condition and make it worse. It was a California bike and there is no "gain" adjustment on my FI so I can't just richen up the fuel and hope. Which brings me to my point: I have no plans to modify the Tenni at this time. Keeping everything stock, what is the best way to richen up the mix a bit? Power Commander? Creedon Chip? Yak Fat? I am assuming that the CA status is what makes it so damn lean, and the CARB "thou shalt not make thy bike run well" edict is why I have no gain adjustment... is there a way around that? Oh, and I am a cheap bastard, so the less $$$ the beter.

I've been searching the web, but I haven't found a source there yet. One thing I did notice was that most of the sellers of Metalatik anythings were bearing supply houses. I'll pull mine out and shop it around while I am in the field on Monday and see what I find. If I come up with anything I'll post the information here. If anyone has the dimensions so I don't have to leave my bike sitting on a floor jack, I would appreciate you posting them here. Thanks. Ryan

I had hard starts, cold running, and general shaking, too. Adjusted my valves, set the TPS and sync'd the TBs and she starts right up, cold, warm... no matter. She still shakes a bit, but that is part of her charming "ride me" dance. And she has always handled great.

Wow- so many issues, so little time. First, the insurance thing... you can't insure a bike you don't own, even if you have the VIN. There is the whole "Insurable interest" thing whereby I can't buy coverage if I am not at risk of financial loss. If I don't own it, I'm not at risk. This keeps me from buying a policy on my stupid neighbor's kids car, and collecting when he crashes it (and he will crash it). In the case of insuring it prior to a test ride, if the transaction has not taken place and ownership been transfered, your company will not pay... they always look for a reason not to pay, and you not owning the bike at the time of the accident is a pretty big reason. Secondly, your liability insurance will not cover damage to your bike caused by a test rider. If you have collision coverage, it will cover damage to your bike. Liability only covers damage to other people's bodies and property. Thirdly, the test rider is covered under your policy. His accident will also be charged to your policy. Your rates may very well increase because you have "an accident" even though you were not on the bike. OK, that finishes that. Keep in mind that I am in Oregon and only know the laws for Oregon- your state/country may vary, but the basics are pretty much the same. I will never let you test ride my bike. I had one bad experience with a guy who thrashed around my neighborhood at warp speed on my GS1100. Not happy. If you look at my bike and like it, I'll take you for a two-up run through the gears. You buy it. Then you get to take a solo test ride, and if it is as advertised you own it. Once you leave, if you don't come back in 15 minutes to back out of the deal, you own it. Buyer's remorse is not enough to queer the deal. I put the following statement on every bill of sale: "I release all interest in, and responsibility for, the above-discribed vehicle at 12:01pm on January 10, 2007." and we both sign it. You will notice that once the bill of sale is signed, dated, and time-noted (you all do this, right?) I no longer own it and if he wrecks it I'm in the clear. Them are my rules. I have never had a problem selling any bike because of them, and I have sold a few since the "Suzuki incident" and the adoption of the rules. Garsdad

Check your fuel. I had a TR-7 for a long time that would collect water in the gas tank. It would reach a point where a hard turn would push it all to the same side of the tank as the pickup, then a couple miles later I would start the sputter routine. The FI return line keeps things pretty well stirred up in the tank, but it is possible you have a puddle under your gas and sucked a little in. If it is vapor lock, there won't be much fuel return when the pump is running, so you should be able to look in and see how much "current" is in the tank. Good luck.

One question: Can I make my Tenni sound like that, and how?