Skeeve
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Posts posted by Skeeve
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What a great shot! One of the prettiest bikes ever next to a candidate for one of the ugliest, with a pit cutie keeping score!
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OK, so this is a bit tangential to the subject. Given that the speedo gears are not readily obtainable, but made of plastic, wouldn't these be a good candidate for 3D printing?
Anybody have a 3D printer? I'm keen to get one, but I can't quite justify it.
Gears need to have smoooth surfaces to mesh & xfer power properly. 3D printing doesn't really get that fine until you're talking megabucks.
Wait for it, Weedhoppa: it'll come, it'll come. Maybe not soon, but someday...
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Aw crap...
Slavomir was one of the people who really made this forum feel like a local hangout full of friends, not some bedlam nuthouse full of strangers like so much of the rest of the interweb... He will be missed.
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Theres one for sale close to home and Ive always wanted a Lemans I. How close is this mechanically to a lemans?
SP is a sport-tourer, not at all like a LeMon [aside from the overall similarity all Tonti-framed round barrels possess, which has led to all sorts of cobbled together fake LeManszeses being foisted off on the unwary.]
Get the SP, fettle it & use it as your daily rider while you continue looking for your dream vintage LeMans...
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I have been playing with Dulicolor imitation anodizing and I'm getting pretty close. The trick is to not use their silver under coat but try a automotive very light gold (Toyota Camry) as an under coat and use a satin clear coat as a final finish. If I get a formula that really works I will pass it along,
Rich
Thanks for that tip; I've been meaning to try some experimentation w/ the Duplicolor mock anodize paint myself. Sorry your powder coating shop let you down.
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I reckon that the seals are just high maintenance because they are more track biased than road.
Yeah, Oehlins [sorry, I don't have umlauts on my U.S. keyboard! You know the old joke *
] are racing equipment.When it comes to replacement, fitting normal (tighter) road seals, Kawasaki or whatever the correct alternative is, could be sensible?Tighter, longer lasting seals = more sticktion = less compliance over the tiny bumps = losing the front end at 10/10ths speeds. Probably not a concern for our Guzzis, since they weigh in a good 50# over anything else the Oehlins get used on, & more avoirdupois = more traction.
Ride on!
* - "What do you call someone who speaks multiple languages? Multilingual or a polyglot. What do you call someone who speaks 2 languages? Bilingual. What do you call someone who speaks one language? English. What do you call someone who can't speak even one language (correctly)? An American!
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BTW, on spark plugs: the 1200 8V just has the one plug, there is no hidden inner plug.
Yeah, his Brevona is the square-sump 2v, which Guzzi dual-plugged to meet smog req's. on the penultimate evolution of Carcano's 700cc mill from 1965. 45+ years on pretty much the same bottom end: that's better than Harley's record by more than double!
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40 MPG(UK) = 33.3 MPG(US)
Huh? 5 qts to the Imperial gallon, right? I get 32mpg [ie, multiply the Imp. mileage by .8 -> SAE, or the US mileage by 1.25 -> UK.] What am I doing wrong?
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The resistance value is 3000 Ohms at 25°C, the point all thermistors a referenced to.
9.7 KOhms at 0, 202 Ohms at 100, 54 Ohms at 150°C
So, since the thermistor for air temp sensing is never going to get above about 40C, and I don't much expect to ride below about 5C, we can split the difference and average, multiply by the square root of -i, split the infinitive & dot the quarks, and just solder in a 4k ohm resistor to the airbox leads when converting to pods & expect the bike to run a little rich when it's hot outside [as insurance against pinging] and a little lean when it's cold out [to help keep the engine oil from turning into mayonnaise] & call it a day?
Thanks!
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Airboxes turn up on ebay fairly often. I got one for $10 a few years back because nobody else bid on it. I don't think there's a big demand for them.W/ the stock intake horns? I see "complete" air boxes on eBay, but they're usually missing the critical pieces we're discussing...
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I'm waiting for the next batch of MRM pistons. If and when Megacycle produces one of their rare batches of cams, I'm in line for one of those and MRM Ti pushrods for the long-dormant Sport 1100i.
Which Megacycle cam are you going to go with? Don't forget w/ the Ti pushrods, your clearances will tighten way up, since they don't expand w/ heat the same amount as the alloy stockers or aftermarket Chro-Mo ones will. IIRC, Pete Roper mentioned running close to 0 lash [on a stone-cold engine] with them on their classic Guzzi racer down in Oz, since once the engine heated up, that gave them their correct lash spec. Or maybe those were CF pushrods we were discussing?
Hope your wait for the pistons is short!
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The only decent thing I've found about Facebook
http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Breast-Page/489963334352463
Seems like FB already shut it down; your link takes me straight to my own FB home page, dang it!
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With pods you need some form of velocity stack or you will get a flat spot.
Note the beuties on Dave's bike
Good point, Kiwi!
Usually, when deleting the airbox for pods, the mod'er will reuse the velocity stacks from the stock airbox. If the PO didn't know to do this, then a pair of the spiffy alloy aftermarket jobs will look a lot better and probably be easier to find than an unmolested stock airbox to pull some plastic ones from.
As far as the ECU question goes, AFAIK your only options are the Dynojet PCIII, one or two aftermarket reflash options, or a MyECU from Jeffries.
The PCIII is easiest, because it's plug & play & there's a wealth of maps for V11s w/ pods already done up for you to download. Downside is electrical gremlins from the extra connections, but a little extra prep & dielectric grease should solve that for you.
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http://www.cycleworld.com/2012/08/09/moto-guzzi-model-boxes article
Got a kick out of this! The Otto Cilindri was a transversely-mounted, chain-final drive technical tour de force headed up by our favorite Guzzi engineer, Carcano in the early '50s when MG was still contesting [& winning] international GP road racing.
What's wrong w/ this picture?
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Carb cleaner eats rubber parts right quick
So, what would you use? (I actually use electronics cleaner, since brake parts cleaner is probably even worse than carb cleaner.)
WD40?
WD40 will work [it's essentially kerosene, so it tends to temporarily seal the leak and add some heavy fuel to a lean condition: idle goes up.]
Starter fluid [aerosol ether; again, adding fuel to a lean condition, idle goes up. It will evaporate, so no clean up needed after testing.]
Propane [from an unlit brazing torch; again, adding fuel, idle up. Like ether, no clean up needed after, but just remember to turn the torch off after use, so you don't get a garage explosion 1/2 hour after closing up the shed!
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I have owned the 2002 Ghezzi Brian Folgore since mid 2005, I had a track school accident in late 2005 (different bike) and have not ridden much since then. I broke my shoulder over a year ago (mountain biking) and, I just cant ride the low riding position anymore. So, I am thinking of selling the bike, question is, how much is it worth now? No blue book in the States has a listing, do I put it on Ebay to see where the price go's or? By the way, the bike has 7906 km (4912 miles) on it, has Mike Rich ported heads and pistons, powercommander and runs fantastic. What do you guys think?
What does a pristine Daytona RS w/ similarly low mileage go for? I'd venture that should be a fairly good starting point for comparison. Good luck!
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Me to,whats MPH?not miles per hour obviously.
MPH is one of the few big Guzzi dealers stateside. They're down in Houston, TX. Todd Haven is the proprietor, iirc? [At least, I seem to recall he does all their web posting...] Not to be confused w/ Todd Eagen, he's in CA & runs the GuzziTech forum, reflashes the CARC ecus & offers some spendy Guzzi go fast parts.
Pete's sloppage sheet is decidedly NON-spendy for a part that's manufactured in short runs, fixes a recall-worthy motor-killing shortcoming in the V11s' engineering, & is shipped from 1/2 the world away...
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Hi. Pls excuse my ignorance but I just bought a carb sport that has pod-filters and a full staintune system. i'd love to get the 41fcr's but in reading your info am concerned it will present probs as I dont have a pressurized airbox any more.
Don't worry about that: somewhere in the archives is a post by Greg Field (iirc) to the effect that someone once measured the amount of airbox pressurization achieved by the Spot/Sporti's airbox, and it only amounted to about 1/2 psi @ 100mph. Obviously, it would go higher as speed goes up, but it can't really be called "pressurization" so much as "compensating for sheer-induced vacuum in the airbox at speed."
You've much bigger problems than that running pods, as any side-breeze will affect your jetting. [Airboxes are faster; pods look better. Que sera sera!
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New guy here. Just purchased a 2004 Coppa Italia. Many bikes in the past, but my first Goose. Trying to sort it all out a bit. The bike came with what looks to be the factory luggage rack. But whoever mounted it did a hack (as in hack saw) job using a couple of Hex head bolts through the muffler/pax peg carrier and the rack supports. I hate it when cheap or ill fitting hardware is used instead of the correct parts. But I'm stumped trying to find the correct "allen cap screw" bolts. Looks like I need something called a "low socket cap screw" in 8x1.25 but I can't source any. Any ideas out there? I'd love to see what the correct hardware that came with the rack looks like.
Love those Coppas!
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I definitely would not be taking her to hooters. Don't care how good the food is. They do serve food, right?
Depends on what you call "food."
The only time I went to a Hooters here in SoCal, the poor attitude of the wait staff*, delayed delivery of my order, unappetizing food and overpriced menu combined to make certain it was a singular event. * - How women who supposedly know they've been hired for their appearance should get their panties in a twist about actually being observed by their clientele is more scandalous than the tight t-shirts and hot pants of their uniforms, to me. If they don't like their job, they should go work somewhere else: there's plenty of other restaurants around who'd be happy to fire them for their incompetence in the actual performance of their duties!
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1998 almost had 70's Suzuki 500TT??
Titan. Still a viable bike for vintage racing. Downside is it's a piston-port 2smoke, so wafer-thin powerband by the time you get done porting & piping the thing to make good peak power. There's a reason all the 500GP smokers were rotary-valved by the end...
I have a 3 yr old daughter and lovely now and is the only reason I keep holding back on another bike, not wanting to be road kill. But I guess thats what they make the motorcycle safety foundation class for. Took it almost 20 yrs ago and probably time to do it again.
No, that's what they sell life insurance for! The MSF basic course is just that: basic! If you've already been riding for any length of time, then take the ERC. If you're getting back into riding after a long time, still take the ERC: it'll just be a slightly tougher slog at first, until your parking lot skills get back up to speed. Other than that, sign up for a real track school: well worth the money, both on & off the track. [Helpful reminder too that all that scratching nonsense is better done on the track than on the public roads.]
Best of luck w/ your goal! At least you'll find the wrenching part of keeping your Guzzi in fine fettle easy, what w/ that MMI background!
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Also running a 160/60 rear tyre instead of the recommended 160/70.
Well, that lower profile rear tire is going to lower the back of the bike ever so slightly, which would raise the beam a tad. Can't think it would be enough to get you to fail the test, tho'. Have you check to make sure the bulb is installed right side up? That would be a reason for your low beam to be shining up in the trees & your high beam to be normal...
Best of luck, wish I had some helpful suggestion, but short of shimming the back of the headlight housing to tilt the beam down, I can't think of anything remotely pertinent...
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Well, it was a designer's pitch for new Indian branding – but why didn't he use an Indian
or did he not know what he was designing for?
Anyway, it's a bit bizarre.
Actually, I kinda like it. A far superior alternative to the selling of craptastic Brit bikes under the Indian brand back in the 50's that spelled doom for the marque due to the execrable QC on the imports.
And, lest we forget, Indian does have a history of making longitudinal air-cooled shaft drive V-twins [under a WWII US military test contract;
Do you think it's maybe true??? What you're saying could make a sort of sense, Skeeve. I've no idea if Piaggio/Guzzi would do such a thing. The funny thing is that contrarily, people have said the Guzzi badge should be slapped on other makes of bike e.g. a 'Guzzi' branded Aprilia sports bike, or a scooter....
Do I think Piaggio would do it, or do I think Polaris [the current owners of the Indian nameplate, iirc] would do it? Piaggio would do it if it made sense from an economies of scale [produce more small blocks = lower cost for all small blocks, making them more price competitive in a crowded market] perspective.
I kinda doubt that "Indian" would go for this, simply because the present owners of the name almost certainly know nothing of the company history of making a long. v-twin, nor does the majority of the riding public: everyone everywhere associates Indian w/ flouncy transverse v-twins of gargantuan size & profligate chrome accoutrements.
It's almost certainly just a hare-brained P'shop exercise...
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If you're in the market for a Fuel Pressure Regulator for your '02 Guzzi and you don't want to pay the exorbitant "dealer" price of 270.00+ USD, then NAPA auto parts is your savior. The NAPA P/N is MC26011 and costs around 57.00 USD + shipping if you order it online. It is a Weber part, it's a 3bar, and it fit my '02 Tenni. The part is also a replacement for 95-01 Harley's equipped with EFI. Mine ceased regulating and fuel was blowing by the injector o-rings and I agave up after a couple attempts of cleaning it. Gootsie is happy again and getting ridden after 3 months of down time.
My apologies if this old news here.
Link to part here
--Pete
This is great info; probably should be made a "sticky."
HELP Gas Cap lock broken
in 24/7 V11
Posted
Dri-Slide. Oily lubricants attract dirt and cause the lock internals to wear. Dri-Slide is moly-graphite in an evaporative carrier solvent. Be careful, anything it touches *will* get stained black.