BrianG
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Posts posted by BrianG
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Let me rephrase that!
Is there one that I could retro-fit, that DOES have the integral reserve function?
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Does anyone know whether there is a manual petcock that has an integral "reserve" function, suitable in fitment for the early V11 Sport fuel tank .
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This may seem a silly question, but why are you adding another kick-stand?
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Thank you for your very constructive input. Your comments with suggestions were exactly what I was looking for. I believe that most of the other comments relating to my question have misunderstood my quest for a marginal increase in H/P with trying to create a racing, bone-crunching monster.
Well, take heart...... you already have the "bone-crushing monster" part in the stock V11
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Not that this is particularly germane since my experience is aeronautical. In my old Mooney... which sports a carbeurated 360 cu, 180 hp 6 cy air-cooled boxer engine, there is an "air filter by-pass system fitted. This re routes the intake air from a rather circuitous system that includes an air filter, to a direct - straight shot to the carb mouth from right behind the propeller, path. At about 150 mph this produces about 2" of manifold pressure difference for ram-induction. Nothing to write home about, and certainly resulting in questions about efficacy at 60 mph, since physics dictates a (v)squared=energy relationship.
The question of induction restriction is quite another subject, however. On an old RZ 350 and a dyno, we discovered that drilling 4, 1.5" diameter holes in the airbox lid increased the hp about 2 hp per hole...... the 5th hole added nothing more.
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Thanks, Randy!
Now the question is..... is it a valuable item, from an owner's perspective?
It seems to be about the same price as a PC III.
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I apologize if this has been covered to death, but I can't find anything on the search engine.
My service manual says that there is a software package to execute the diagnostics on my 2000 Sport's ECU. Is this accessible? Is the hardware cable acccessible? Is the diagnostic useful?
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The fellow at Airtech actually suggested the early Duc fairing for the newer V11 Goose.
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OK, so where are these B-G Quat-D things to be found in NorthAmerica?
Dave says NO at Moto International
Harper's says NO.
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I think the original goop was Yama-bond. It's certainly the perfect stuff for this situation. I used it successfully to seal the cases on my Norton, back in the early 70's. Had all my friends warning me the the Norton was out of oil, 'cause there was no "spot" on the driveway!!
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I put a 190 on the rear of my 900RR replacing the stock 180, and it felt like a cruiser! Dumbest thing I ever did to the poor thing!
And that after spending $1000.00 on forks and another similar amount on the Shock! Dumb Dumb Dumb!!
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I loved the Penske on my 900RR but it didn't have a hydraulic preload available back then...
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Jason: I'm a Shoei head, too and would like a flip-front unit for the next one. I've hear that they are WAY noisier than the full face type. How do you find the HJC flip-front for wind noise on the hi-way?
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Yes, John, in theory there is nothing about shifting clutchlessly with a C/M gear-box. The real-world issues about missing a match with the kind of power and intertia found in our big-twins is a risk without benefit, IMHO. YMMV.
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Is this the place to ask about cogged belt conversions?
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This may sound unusual coming from someone who loves wheelies and burnouts but I don't see any need for clutchless shifts. I know that done properly there is little or no chance of hurting the transmission but I do not see any benefit from the technique (as opposed to the vast and immense benefits of wheelies and burnouts!). Perhaps in circumstances of competition where tenths of a second matter I could see the need but not for everyday riding. If you wish to utilize this technique for your own pleasure then good on ya, mate!
I have a myriad of ways to use and abuse my bike, but clutchless shifts seem like purposeful abuse without benefit. That is, unless it's a race...
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Use copper-kote sparingly on the center-bolt thread, to keep it corrosion free. If you look close, that center-bolt doesn't move with the throttle-lock so it's not going to back out from use. Another trick when removing the "guts" of these things or others (especially Honda's) is to shoot a bit of Varsol up inside the handlebar before you try to pull the thing out. (Hondas have a hole under the switch-cluster)
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Hey beauchemin........ still got a spare spring?
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Paul....
How do you see a "Workshop" manual.
All I see are Owner Manuals for the Sport and the Cali.
California_Owners_Manual.zip
California 1100i Owners Manual html format 1156 KB guzzi007 05/13/2003
V11_Sports_Owners_Manual.zip
V11 Sport Owners Manual in html format (unpolished and unfinished, but useable) 2279 KB guzzi007 05/13/2003
sport_1100i_owners_manual.zip
Sport 1100i Manual in html format 304 KB guzzi007 05/13/2003
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WANTED
North American source for Magni fairing for my V11 Sport...... NEW or USED considered.
After other considerations, this is the way to go for me.
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Although my MG Sport is still on the way, my experience with tires is on my current ride, a 1999 CBR 900RR. The Bridgestone iteration of the day, 010 front and 020 rear, worked out really well for traction, especially dry, but milage was
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I sent mine back. there was two different colors of green (they told me later) and I have the light one. fit was terrible as the plastic wind screen holes were really stressed. I was going to try to repaint and match it, but the paint was 175$ and the fairing was 300$. it wasn't worth it to me.
David, WHERE did you find a Magni fairing for $300.00!! I want it!!
ECU
in Technical Topics
Posted
Thanks John & Hubert!
Is there some advantage in this MY 15M unit over the PClll piggy-back? I'm not convinced that a closed-loop ECU is going to add a whole lot to practical considerations, in terms of motorcycle driving and performance. It is my understanding that a lambda sensor circuit does it's work at pretty much steady-state power settings. As such, a motorcycle is generally not found in this contex.
My Porsche's Bosch EFI goes full rich at anything over 70% tps deflection. I can monitor the A/F ratio with my LM-1 wideband meter, and it shows the EFI at default-rich under all but the most benign driving conditions.
Is this a misinterpretation of the value of the MY 15M in the motorcycle context?