Cliff
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Posts posted by Cliff
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Any city riding invalidates mileage measurements so it only makes sense to talk about open road.
Every bike I have had, including my current three Guzzis has bettered 5l/100km or 20km/l at legal cruising speeds. Being a glider pilot and engineer gives me a predisposition to trying to ride efficiently.
If I get anything less I start to troubleshoot.
First check is rolling resistance - ie dragging brakes etc. Tuning would be next.
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Without knowing the specifics of your circuit or riding test...
300mV should make quite a difference at low/no throttle where the input is around 1/2 volt. I'm not sure what the typical cruising voltage is but if around 2V or more, then 300mV is not that big a change.
Other complications
The throttle also affects spark advance so increasing the TPS voltage would richen and retard.
If the ECU is running closed loop most changes to the inputs would be ignored as the ECU trace the gas sensor.
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This could indicate that the voltage is getting lower than before. Perhaps the battery is getting past its use buy date.
My Breva 750 did this. I was considering a new starter solenoid at the time but I then changed to Lithium and the problem disappeared. Lithium gives me an extra volt on what the lead acid did.
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Here's a better link
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It sounds like a few tweaks have crept in. Creeping to 6th with idle throttle. Wow.
You should go back and do the TPS calibration from scratch. Make sure the air bleed screws are set. I use 2 turns out.
Set the idle to 1200 when warm. Anything lower and you risk the stalls.
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The assumption is that you are measuring it correctly. If it was giving 5V I would say it would run a lot less than proper. It would probably not start if that was the case.
Just think, if the ECU saw 5V, it would think you had full throttle and fuel it accordingly. I'd be very suprised if it would run at all.
One of the 3 wires going to the TPS is 5V, one is ground and the other is the signal.
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Valve clearances were checked 2 weeks ago, as was the TPS voltage and TB balance.
If you've recently been tinkering then perhaps something wasn't done up sufficiently. You should revisit those things and check again.
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I think I can see some issues already.
Running closed loop will not improve the map. Only the Optimiser in Autotune will do that.
If you are running closed loop, the potentiometer will have no effect. Closed loop means follow the o2 sensor to the in spite of what other things may be saying. In open loop the potentiometer will allow corrections.
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I often have guys wanting to rush off to the dyno as soon as they get their MyECU. I try and discourage it.
There's a couple of things I try and point out.
1) Don't go to the dyno until you're familiar with the way MyECU works.
2) Go through a couple of map iterations of your own first.
2) Don't expect the dyno operator to do it for you. Its rare that they would have any interest in learning anything different. Even if they did don't expect them to pick it in a few hours.
68C, my recommendation would be to spend the money on an LC1 and not worry about the dyno yet if at all.
If you do go to a dyno soon I recommend to keep it simple and short. Don't worry about the inertial types. Just get a couple of runs from low revs to red line at a few throttle values, 1/4 1/2 3/4 full when running open loop and then go home with the graphs and make the changes offline.
pasotibbs, unless we've been corresponding via email, it was 11 months ago that you seemed to be set on the right foot with closed loop and the Optimiser. I would have expected you to have your map nailed by now or at least posted something about the issues you were having.
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Not sure I understand.
The two coils have a common connection that is connected to +12V via the fuel pump relay. The other side of the coils go to the ECU which grounds the coils via its power transistors.
Are you talking about ground the ECU case?
Are you grounding the coil body ( perhaps increasing the electrical shielding )
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Sounds like you could source a 15RC from a later V11 and a sensor and just plug it in. There'd be no guarantees you would have a better running bike. A common complaint of later bikes with the sensor is that they run too lean.
You don't mention why you think you need to improve the mixture in cruise.
If you want to make it a little richer/leaner you have a few simple options. You could tweak the TPS, or the air temperature with an external resistor/potentiometer.
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You're most probably right. This is my 97 Sport and I've not done anything to it apart from keep it garaged and out of the rain most of the time.
You got to wonder where the heat, an easy 10W, was being generated. No noticeable signs.
I haven't ridden the Sport since I made the changes. Its been sitting for a few weeks as I pinched its battery for my Breva 750.
The Breva's lithium battery has now arrived so the Sport should get a trip this weekend.
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Roy is correct. The standard wiring is crap. I've recently completed the headlight relay mod on all mu bikes. The primary reason was to stop overcharging with the headlight on. Having headlights on would add 1 volt to the charging voltage and this was after I'd added a 25A earth wire.
The other thing is I was only getting 9 something volts on the headlight bulb from 12V on the battery.
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Hi Can someone explain what a eprom chip will do? Is it a worth while mod? or should I save my pennies for a x over?thanks
There is no eeprom chip option for your ECU. You can get it reflashed.
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Your registration on my forum is complete.
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You should check your wiring harness from the ECU and the ECU's earth strap. Its possible some wires became like light filaments as the short circuit current could exceed 100A.
Even open the ECU's wiring harness outer wrapping to check the integrity of the wires inside.
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I had my mechanic work on it and he did do a full carb adjustment and sync. The carbs are of course not the standard ones on the bike. We sent in the ECU and were told it was dead. If we disconnect the vacuum tube it still runs the same. If the throttle is really hit it just dies like it won't advance.
You're wacking the throttle open at idle? It dies before it revs up? If so this is not an advancing issue. In fact opening the throttle generally reduces the advance.
Do you have accelerator pumps? Try disconnecting them if you can.
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Yes, but to be sure this is the exact part: Digiplex 2S Magneti Marelli ECU
I don't know about the variations in the curves if at all.
If you look at my signature you will see that I make an ignition module that will replace the Digiplex and I've got one in a Sport 1100 producing good results.
You should continue to try and find one you can test with.It sounds strange that it goes bad but still runs the bike. I would think it works or it doesn't. The fuel side sounds much more likely the problem.
How do you know it doesn't advance? Have you seen it with a timing light?
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I added a lithium battery to my Sport, not one of these tidier packaged ones.
The bike has been sitting for most of the time since I got it but the bike has never started better.
My original posting was here
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=31183.msg604697#msg604697
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since the starter gear is engaging the flywheel.
How do you know this? By the clunk?
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The fuse is blowing with the no-start condition because the starter has no EMF* nor is it generating CEMF** and thus it becomes a 0 resistance circuit and blows the fuse.
Everything is working to the point it is getting to the motor part of the starter. You can disassemble the starter but (might) not see anything wrong. If there is a starter rebuilder in your area contact him to see if he can help. Ask him if he will repair it and let you watch. Please explain you just want him to explain what is being done, why and "theory of operation" of the starter.
He will probably be happy to help and feel good that someone simply "wants to know" .......
*Electromotive Force
**Counter Electromotive Force
There are some snippets of truth here but many errors.
True there is no back EMF from the stationary motor but the resistance is not zero. I've seen 300A quoted for these starter motors so the resistance is V/I ~1/30 ohm. This circuit is not fused.
The solenoid is a capable of switching this 300A and thus requires the order of 10A to operate. This is probably fused but there is no reason this should blow the fuse except for an incorrectly chosen fuse.
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It sounds more like the starter's solenoid rather than the starter motor. My Breva 750 is showing similar symptoms also. It's a common problem.
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Usually popping on overrun is due either to exhaust leaks or being too lean. In your case probably the latter. You should use the PC to make the bottom end say 5% richer.
Alternator with higher output?
in Technical Topics
Posted
I don't understand the problem. Those voltages are to be expected.