Cliff
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Posts posted by Cliff
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Sounds like vibration may be causing relay chatter.
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# This table relates to the injector open/close times as a function of voltage # The value here is roughly the time ( in us ) # 16V 15V 14V 13V 12V 11V 10V 9V InjVOn 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
It's probably not too important.
This value from this table is added to the map values. Without real numbers here the map values are larger. This causes the barometric compensation to over compensate. The effect is small.
Also for bikes with the headlight on, it will correct for the voltage dip when idling.
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The spark advance was retarded to TDC for the inital cranking. Before there was a lot of kick back that would actually stall the cranking.
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There is supposed to be a trip to the UK ( being organised from the US) but details have been a bit slow in materialising. Was hoping to go straight from US as sitting in a steel tube for the best part of 24hrs is not an attractive option. I should be able to get something more definitive while I'm in the US.
Anyway the later it is, the closer to summer :-)
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I'm going to be in Silicon Valley Feb 18th to Feb 29 for work. Not much notice I know.
I've already contacted those who have my ECU near there.
I'll be bringing a My15M and Optimiser with me also so if anyone in the area wants to try it on their bike or just have a beer or a ride (I've been offered a ride an on Duke in the 2nd week ), let me know and I'll see what can be organised.
I've also got a hire car and could handle a drive of a couple of hours on the weekend.
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You'll see a 3 pin header near the top left of the board. The centre pin is ground. The pin below that is the signal input.
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Ok you have a probe to measure the temperature but how are you going to use this probe in practise ? On the road the power output is always changing and hence the temperature. On the dyno you may as well just use torque/power measurement from the dyno.
You couldn't use it as an ECU feedback.
That graph for spark advance is interesting and explains why I was unable to detect much change with spark advance when I last tried to optimise it. Perhaps the main thing is just to avoid detonation.
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Will the sensor now show a higher lambda for the previously tuned pulsewidth (final death to all references to AFR), meaning the closed loop will take advantage of the spark advance by richening the fuel? Just like that? If so, we really have to invent (or re-invent) autotune for ignition advance
The lambda will indicate the same because closed loop will make is so. With closed loop, the spark advance is what controls the power.
For all the shit thrown at "02 sensors" in the Ecu thread; I've not detected any abnormal behavior from WB sensors. I currently have 2 LC1s on the Sport with independent closed loop.
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Those spark advance maps look identical above 2000 RPM. Is the only thing they adjusted to help it idle and pickup from idle ?
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Thanks, that's good to know. I'll sort it out. I'd like the upgrade please!
Another question for you: I've read about people having tacho's reading some 200 rpm high. If my tacho reading is the same as the Optimiser rpm reading, it should mean I can trust the tacho (in terms of offset) when using either ECU, right?
Send me an email for the upgrade.
The OEM ecu generated tacho pulses based on the engine pulses.I found this incorrect on my Sport so I came up with an independent pulse stream. This was calibrated on my tacho though.
The Optimiser is correct.
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You won't be able to use the injection numbers as is. I tried once and the Sport was unridable. I think the OEM adds an injector dead time or something so I would expect you will need to add some constant of the order of 1ms . My latest software allows to be done more easily.
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I'm also using the LC1 ( 2 of them actually ). I run them in their factory default mode and find that 2.0 to 2.25V runs well but 2.5V I get the occassional miss. I think 2.0V is about 13:1
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Your simplest solution would be to substitute the engine temperature sensor with a potentiometer (gives some adjustablility). The sensor is just like a resistor to ground.
There's a temperature table here http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/temperature.htm.
I'd say 1k pot would give you the adjustment you want. Put it in with a switch so you can switch between the pot and the original sensor.
Can't imagine how you guys get through winter. Winter here is prime riding season. Worse days in summer you need to plan to get back home before its too hot.
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- my trips home to work are about 2 miles each way (that sucks).
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I think you're suffering from inappropriateness. I don't think many big bikes will get good milage on such a trip. Even if there was no traffic or lights on the run. Perhaps an electric scooter.
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I could add an idle flag but it wouldn't do much.
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Some imbalance would be inherit in the engine design but I think most will be due to the imbalance of the throttles. This would vary from tune to tune. The only way the ECU would adjust for this is to run closed loop on each cylinder independently.
I'm actually doing this on my Sport at the moment, just as a curiosity ( and to make sure MyECU works properly in this mode)
I'm finding that 5-10% difference is common at low throttle and seems to vary a bit depending on rpm and throttle. By about 1/8-1/4 throttle its evened out. This was after I had balanced the throttle.
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The power dip is a function of the engine/exhaust/inlet. No ECU will remove it. The only thing you could do is to detune around the dip so that its not noticable. I don't think anyone would want to do that.
Better fuel economy is usual. I've had more than a few Centauros go from about 13.x l/km to 17.x with my unit. While a substantial increase ( 20% ), I don't think either figure is impressive myself. My bikes do better than 20 and sometimes I've seen 22. I'm sure I ride like a pussy but it would be consistant with me flying sailplanes and not flying the Red Bull air race.
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Your problems suggest that you should not bother with jump starting just yet.
If the battery didn't charge off the bike, its unlikely to charge on the bike.
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On my 97 Sport I think I used a 27mm Nut. It had enough height to then put a socket on it.
Then I found I needed a special tool to undo the filter.
In the end I found it easier to just drop the sump.
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Looking at their schematic on that PDF, it seems you are measuring R1 ( 3800 ) and do not have R2 (1700 ).
The interesting thing is R2 would have NO effect on what the ECU would read. In fact I can't see why its there as the only effect is to load the ECU's 5V supply.
So I don't think you have a TPS problem. I would put a voltage meter on the wiper and see how smoothly it follows the throttle movment.
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Something that drains the battery so quickly has to be generating some heat.
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How far has the bike travelled and is the chain and tensioner original?
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If its for a standard 02 sensor, it will be an 18mm thread. Best thing to do would be put an oz sensor in it.
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That placement is fine. Thats where I run mine. The sensors have internal heater.
TPS voltage offset with engine running
in Technical Topics
Posted
I think it is due to the butterfly valve being sucked ( open in this case ) while the engine is running.