guido

The bakelite? holder for the temperature sensor on the cylinder head of my V11 has broken. It has been stuck on with shoe glue!! And the bike ran. The sensor looks fine and measures OK, but I need a new holder. 1. Are they abailable as a seperate item 2 If not, do they have to be made of an insulating material or, IOW can I turn one out of brass?

Since now all V11 there ever are going to be, have been built, it would be nice to have some production figures for the different variants. It is no secret that this model has been built in a low production environment for Moto Guzzi, but how many machines were actually made, and which ones are going to be "the classic"

Put the allen key to the bols.they were ALL loose. Seems as if the guy who had it apart did not have an alignment tool and left the stuff loose to align the plates. Forgot to tighten. Voila. Very little damage done as far as I can tell.

Now it is apart. this is what I found. No bolt is loose, Whole plate seems to be too far back from engine. I will study closer now, any ideas? The silver circle is where three bolts from the flywheel have touched the box

Nothing to be found in the engine. Small chips of alu evident around the starter ring gear. I think there might be a problem behind the engine, most likely clutch related. Might well be a loose bolt as suggested. And no, I didn't hear a thing. I guess there are no easy ways to get at the b**** thing?

The motor does not turn with screwdriver on starter ring gear. I have dropped the sump, everything looks fine, apart from some silicone rubber residues, and I have taken the one bearing shell off. The lower bearing has a couple of smooth spots, but nothing through the whitemetal, and no sign that this may have caused the seizure. The other conrod sits in a bit ackward position, but I will try and get that bearing out too. Somehow I think they might be OK. What else can cause the motor to seize. Camshaft. Timing chain. Flywheel. Alternator?

Got the V11 off the trailer. Selected a gear, clutch is free and working, but either the engine or the box is solid. Took off the starter, just in case it had jammed on the ring gear. no luck. Spark plugs off to see if I have a mangled valve, but none can be seen, although you can't see too much. I'll better take the valve covers off and then, sigh, the sump. I wish I had a bore scope! But that's what life is all about, I guess, don't look a gift horse in the mouth.

I don't see it making a lot of sense, except if the engine has seized and the clutch now works. But that's about what it looks like. I had the bike fetched on a trailer, and it is still there, in the dark. the starter clicks, but does not turn, and the bike rolls, but only in neutral. If in gear, nothing moves. I will give it a look tomorrow.

Well, now it seems I will have to pull the engine/box. I tried bleeding the slavecylinder, but that didn't yield any results, the clutch lever in any case felt right. Next thing I took it to the highway, and let it get warm and used the clutch while in 6th. It suddenly reved and died with the clutch lever pulled. I featherd the lever out, but got a funny feeling from the back. The whole drivetrain is now seized, it appears. There is no oil spill, no rattles, but coasting to a standstill, I can't get the engine to turn over on the starter or in gear.. The gears work. I guess I will start by dropping the sump and have a look. Anyone with a good design for a worktable?

I have just taken delivery of an unloved V11 sport with bubble paint on engine. The bike will only start in neutral (even if clutch is pulled). the clutch does not release, and the engine dies when selecting any gear. Initially I thought it stalled because it would not disengage on the clutch, but it also switches the engine off as soon as a gear is selected if you try a rolling start. OK this problem is now sorted. the sidestand switch is missing, and I have bridged out the terminals on the sensor wire. The bike now runs, also in gear, but still no clutch. I will try a run on the high-way to see if heat and vibration might free the clutch (the bike has been standing for months) but if not, I must look for another cause I know the engine has had a bearing replaced, and the workmanship does not seem above suspicion, so anything is possible.

I, for one, think there are problems with the old frame. And looking at the developments at Moto Guzzi, so do they. The main weaknesses apart from the suspension and the tyres, imho has to do with the standard Mazzochi front forks, the steering damper, the front fork angle and the rear swingarm. The suspension and tyre issue has been dealt with, I just seem to think the bike also needs really hard pumped tyres. The front fork, or similar, are also used on some Ducatis, and I have a test report Feb 2006, I think, where the tester almost lost it to a tank slapper on a Monster, he thought the front fork was the reason. No steering damper on that bike. The up-specced V11 came with Oehlins, maybe for good reason. I think the steering damper on the early V11 sports are essential, under certain conditions, and needs to be cranked up at all times. The steering geometry, although not radical, is on the borderline for the bike. There is no doubt that under certain conditions, how rare they might be, the bike can be dangerous. Otherwise I see no reason why Moto Guzzi would change it on the later models. Then there is the rear swingarm, where later machines have a stiffener welded on, and maybe, if I remember correctly a change in length? Lastly there is at least one change to the mounting of the engine+tranny on the later machines, whether or not it affects handling is maybe a moot point, but there seems to be some hard load on parts of the engine/tranny, and cracks are not unheard of. In itself that points to movement in the frame. Of all above, the only one not "easily" changed is the front geometry. But with careful choice of tyres, tyre pressure, steering and suspension set-up, I think you can live with that. Again, nothing of this set up, on the early or later V11s. is transferred to the newer MG models. Brand new frames for both the Griso and the Breva, which means a lifespan of less than 10 years for the spine, and the Tonti is still going almost 40 years later!! You bet there is a reason. I crashed my bike, early green/red unit, and the only reason that I can come up with at the moment, was bad road surface, rippled and uneven combined with, possibly, a loose steering damper. (Note I politely avoid mentioning my riding skills so let's not go there ) I have just now got the bike back, together with an EV, another, later V11 plus a Breva 1100. I still like the V11 sport, I actually think it is a classic in the coming, and I am going to rebuild it, but this is the only bike I have which I will never again ride without full leathers, even in 40 degrees of heat and only going down to the corner shop! Of all these units, including my earlier Tonti machines, ( I don't know the later V11 Sport yet), the Breva is by far the easiest bike to handle. It inspires a confidence on the straight and especially in corners that I never had with the V11, which always wobbled in the curves, unless you gave it power through. The Breva is just so much more relaxed, well it is a hugely improved bike, simply put!. There are no vibrations to speak off, and for the first time, you can actually use your mirrors to identify whats behind you. All my other Guzzis will only show you that something is there but it is not clear what!!. I think the Breva is a huge step forward and it is an absolute delight!! . As a last issue. Bad handling Moto Guzzis do exist. They are maybe rare, and not as badly behaved as others, but when they did or do occur, they are so much more of a surprise! However, if you read about the bikes sold to the police in America, there are well documented cases of individual bikes which would cause tank slappers and all other sorts of problems, without anybody being able to pinpoint exact causes. The Berliner corporation would simply send the affected bikes back. In the beginning MG tried to locate the reasons for the problems, and would test the bikes as they were returned, but they had a factory rider killed doing this, so later the bikes were simply scrapped and parts re-used when possible. So when we have high praise on one hand and doubt on the other, from owners of similar bikes, there could well be differences, and everybodys points could be valid. In the case of an early V11, lovely bike as it is, check, adjust and check again is all I can advice the safety margins are simply not so great on this bike, and yes, - you should always wear leathers, I know, but on the early V11 no exceptions -, for whatever reason - never, ever! Well. then this is off the chest. In to get a beer, football on TV,what a cracker of a game yesterday. OH, life is SWEET!!!

If you haven't had a Moto Guzzi before, do yourself a favour, and go and try a Breva. The Breva 1100 has been an eye-opener to me. It is by far the best handling and the easiest Moto guzzi I have ever tried. The Le-Mans V11 is not bad, but it has known issues, and very little has been caried forward from that model. I think the Breva is easier in every respect and a better bike. And yes, I own a V11 sport as well.

Thanks for the link! And thanks to Peter for the story. Seems worth waiting for, that's at least something. And my dealer is going to let me have Cali EV while I wait, so life seems to be picking up.

what about giving us a link? WG?? blank stare!!

Thanks Baldini! At least one person who has actually ridden one. Guess I will have to wait patiently till the bike arrives here and then go and dirve one as well. Still, that lime green V11 sure is a good looker. However, must be getting old, I must admit, that of my bikes, the favorite is my G5 (almost a convert, Peter , at least a manual convert), its not fast, and maybe not the most comfortable, but it just does everything nicely! I'm getting this sickly feeling, that maybe I should upgrade to a Breva, and then offer to buy the wrecked V11 off the dealer!!

hi Peter. Nice to hear what you actually think of the bike. I sit with my lime green V11, which in my view is a classic. Unfortunately I came off and the bike has to be rebuild. I am just wondering if the new Breva is an alltogether better machine, the credentials of the V11 scares me a bit, It never felt like a truely sorted bike, it was wobbling in the corners, it might have a problem with head shake (at least with the original steeper fork), the gearboxes have issues and there are niggling smaller things as well. It also gives me reason for thoughts, that they have modified the engine, made a new gearbox and tossed the spine-frame. Litterally, nothing significant is carried over to the newer models. Not exactly vouching for the old machines credentials! If the Breva is a markedly better bike, it would hardly be worth it clinging to the V11, in spite of all its charisma. If not, I better get my machine back on the road. So I can't wait for a riding report by someone who actually knows the Guzzis.

I think the tappet clearance is not going to be markedly different from the other Guzzis, but you know what they say, a loud tappet is a happy tappet. On my guzzis that translates into something like .25mm, although I would say that .2mm should be more than enough, but check, there must be info somewhere on that. Apart from that, then, how is the bike to drive etc. I sit with V11Sport which I either have to rebuild or trade in on a Breva. I can see that you have chosen, but tell me about it!!

I don't know what's going on. someone starts a fairly interesting topic, like actually riding a motobike, and soon the thing degenerates into the predictable! I would not worry, by the time you actually get to do some riding, I'm sure the bike is already old and superceded by at least two generations of rocking chairs! If, you get to ride one, won't you please let us know??? I'm interested in trying one myself, will only be in South africa in a couple of weeks, at the earliest.

I once drove my MGB through Germany to Switzerland at high speed. Oil consumption 1.5 liters on 1500km. Changed oil in CH from monograde to multigrade, drove back, consumption halved.

Sorry ratchet, did not catch the adjustment bit in your writing. As for water/air in the system, that will not cause the brakes to lock up. You are right that the gas will expand, but the problem is, it is compressible, acting as a spring in the system, preventing you from transferring full pressure from the pedal to the brakes. Fluid, on the other hand, is well neigh incompressible, not changing volume with pressure, and thus able to transfer pressure from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder. If then, as has been the case on one V11 I took for a test ride, the brakes have no free play at rest, you will get the brake lock as the fluid expands with increased friction and temperature, to the point where it exceedes the engine output and forces the bike to a halt! Kind regards guido

Just shortly. The adjustment of the (foot) brake pedal is often incorrect. That is, there is no free play. Result is the brake drags lightly at first, heats up, heats the fluid, which expands, putting more pressure on brake more heat etc. It can get to the point that the brake will lock up. The cure is simple, adjust the pedal to have a couple of mm free play. My V11 has a noticable band towards the center of the rear disc brake surface, where the plate is rough on both sides. Why it has not kept the whole brake surface nice and shiny I don't know, since the outer half of the brake surface is like the front brakes, nice and shiny.

Well, 75 hp on the rear wheel is not that bad, a lot depends on the correction used by the operator for tranmission losses, and other corrections used for pressure, temperature etc. As for the output, yeah, it's right, it should be the same in any gear, unless you have greater losses in any particular gear, which is not very likely. Congrats that it is back on the road. Now you can start contributing to the state via speeding fines again!

Your battery will, as you know always be lazy when cold. If you haven't got a heated garage, why are you driving a Guzzi?" (slight acknowledgement to Bugatti " There could be other reasons for a slow starter, including the starter itself, but to be sure, get the battery tested. simple thing to do, it's usually free and takes a minute or so.

You seem to have got a thing going with your modified throttle cam. As for thicker grips, you might just be able to kill two birds with one handlebar, as a thicker grip would be easier to hold with leather gloves; and yes, a thicker grip would make it easier to adjust throttle openings finely. You have to look at the travel at the circle of the handle, which is where your hand is. The larger the radius on the handle (the thicker the grip), the larger the physical movement on the arc, for the same degree of movement=throttle opening. It really all comes down to gearing, really. Maybe a nicely padded set of grips would improve things nicely and kill some of the "power trembles" (vibrations, for non-Harley guys) as well

Just an update. SKF seem to have done an exellent job of cutting my front wheel bearings open. They can see no fault on the bearings. I am thus back to square one. What caused the buzz just before the fall?