Greg Field

Well, Dan, as Ratch has said many times he did not have a problem. Therefore the system must work. Despite that, he solved it, anyway. Onward to page 53 of solving a non-problem . . .

We, too, speak different languages. C'est la vie. There is no way the head, with all that mass and connected to the source of heat, will cool faster than the sensor. The sensor is mounted in a holder that is up in the breeze. I think he should look at his valves and guides. I'd surmise they are as loose as a female porn star's essential equipment. I guess enquiring minds only want to look at what makes them feel like they are "outside the box," though.

I think the unit is about half that in the US.

Do you really think a cylinder head that weighs 20 times what the sensor and holder together weigh and which is hooked directly to the heat source will cool down faster than the sensor, which is up in the wind? If you do, I just don't know what to say. If you agree that the head cannot possibly cool faster than the sensor, then lowering the sensor's and holder's thermal mass will be entirely inconsequential. All else falls from that. Some prefer their square wheels, though, and will defend their use because ego demands it.

Another heretic to toss on the bonfire.

Careful. Our "scientist" will burn you, you heretic.

SOunds like a bad petcock or a venting issue. Do you still have the electric petcock? If so, replace it with a manual petcock. Leave the manual one open all the time unless removing the tank. While you are in there, re-route or shield hoses to reduce the tendency to vapor-lock.

You now have my interest piqued. It's possible that your bike has excessive thrust clearance on the crank. DOes engine rpm slow at all when you pull in the clutch?

Wow. Look at all the damage to those cam journals. Almost certainly the bearing surfaces on the cam boxes are packed with schrapnel. They are not replaceable, save by replacing the entire rocker box. I'd bet your rod bearings and crank are damaged, too.

Should work fine.

A "release" issue is oftyen related to spline wear. Adjust your lever so it's at its furthest position from the handgrip. That gives you more throw on the lever, giving you a better chance of having enough throw to get past the worn spots on the splines.

Any progress?

A fine start to the 51st page. Perhaps seawater in the gap will be more perfect than all the other perfects that came before?

Will it run more perfectly if you use another material? Enquiring minds, well, you know . . . (sorry, even in sarcasm, I can't resort to smarmy-snarkey smileys)

If it's pumping and you truly got the retainer back in, it likely does not need a rebuild. We service maybe 100 SPorts, and not one has needed a m/c rebuild yet. Get a big syringe, and use it to bleed from the slave cylinder back to the master cylinder. Remove the line between the m/c and reservoir. Hook a tube up to it, and drape that tube into a catch bottle. Using the syringe, push fluid from the slave up through the line, through the m/c, and into the catch bottle. That'll likely fix it.

The BQ on this thread continues a near vertical ascent. Perhaps it's time to start a contest to guess on what page the BQ will have reached its apogee? I say the fabled "three" who actually "understand" what's going on are still in BQ acceleration mode and won't even begin slowing down for another 30 pages. Good for a laugh to watch anyway.

If the piston came out of the master cylinder, you will likely need to rebuild or replace it. What happened to the ring or circlip that retains the piston? Did you replace it?

Yes, but purely a matter of chance.

OMFG. Could we really hit 50 pages?

It's super easy to tell if the knock is from the clutch or tranny: Pull in the clutch lever. Does the knock go away?

I said greenhouses are made of plastic, since nearly all are. Am I cleared to ride?

Yours is a single-plate clutch. I do not know of a means of externally measuring for wear. You can try lubing the input hub. Pull the starter, and you can sort of get at the back of the hub and try to get some lube to the splines.

A sloppage plate is a device designed for the enrichment of one Pete Roper, an insane Aussie boffin with a midget-porn addiction. It is a faux windage plate that helps keep the oil from sloshing to the back of the sump when you accelerate briskly. Done briskly enough, the oil pickup gets exposed, starving the engine of oil. At very least, keep the engine oil all the way to the full mark. Better yet, keep it to the full mark with the dipstick just being screwed in one turn.

The plastic thing is likely the little actuator for the clutch switch. It sounds to me as if the splines on the trans input hub are worn.

As others have said, it could be normal engine noises, but I've seen at least three V11 Sports come through the shop that developed rod knocks in under 10,000 miles. It is not that uncommon, sadly. Rig up an oil pressure gauge and test pressure when hot. I have one I could lend you, if you do not want to make your own. Or, just pull the lower and upper sumps, and then remove the rod bolts and inspect the shells. Plan on installing new rod bolts, whatever you find. Also plan on installing a sloppage plate, to prevent this happening again. If you need parts or a plate, they ae available from many sources, among them the shop at which I work, Moto Intl.