richard100t
-
Posts
1,552 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by richard100t
-
-
I would just want to make sure the bike hasnt had a major accident. Most all the other problems these bikes have are minor. I have about 35k on my 01' Rosso without much trouble at all. Matter of fact I just slipped some FBF carbon pipes on it & it runs better now than it ever has.
The maintenance what I call "trinity" for a v11 is tb balance, tps, & valve setting. Once you learn how to get that right its gravy.
-
Could you remove the exhaust at the heads and drop it down & out leaving the crossover on? Once its off the bike you could probably get the crossover off easier. The other thought is to spray some wd40 into the fitting of the head pipe & the crossover pipe. That might make it a little easier to come off.
The other issue is not something I know about as it I have the red frame type.
-
DAMN, I wish, I would trade both my bikes for it but would then need to find about another 10-15,000 GBP after everything to get it here
Arent you going to get that new Aprilia rsv v4 Ben? I figured your old one would be feeling a little slow after reading the reviews of the new one
-
thats all fine and dandy but I got at least 2 things going for me, my engine coating won't ever come off and my clutch won't detonate at random, love the 2 plate
are the frames the same? I don't remember when they got longer and only the first year-ish had red frames
rosso's come with CF chin pad? that thing is UBER unobtanium, took me 2 years to locate one.My engine coating looks just fine, none of those problems here. After 34k if it aint coming off yet it never will. Have you ever heard of a clutch going bad in a Rosso? I havent yet. If it did go bad I have a replacement kit brand new in the box ready to go
The frames probably are the same and I have a regular chin pad. -
Here is a more blacked out version of Ben's bike
-
I have 34,000 on mine & it runs better than new. So far nothing serious other than routine maintenance.
-
The best way to find out if its worth what you're asking is to post it for sale here and on Ebay. If someone is willing to give you what you're asking then its worth it
The guy that you're trying to trade it off on is only trying to figure out if he can turn the bike into a buck. My guess is that you're at the upper limits of what a 6 plus year old motorcycle is worth. -
my 02 Lemans has the 5.5 rim w/ 180x55 Diablo.. I love the Pirelli's.. but should I go with a 170 next time? I'm getting a flat spot in the center from a lot of highway riding.. would that be reduced w/a 170?
You should probably go to a more sport touring oriented tire like the Strada. The Diablo is a lot more of a sport tire that doesnt last as long anyway.
-
I have a Rosso Mandello as well & I run the 160 rear tire. It does ride & handle better to me with the 160. As for brand the Pirelli is a very good tire, no doubt. I'm currently running Continental ContiForce front & rear & I think they are the best tires that I've tried so far.
-
thx for trying....don't remember when it was. I do remember someone commenting on the cute girl.
I tried running a google search of it but I need more information.
-
Check the linkage first. If thats not it, remove the gearshift cover. Then check the springs inside. If thats not it check the upper gear cog with the pegs that catch when you shift the gears. I know I'm describing it badly but that mechanism can get out of whack & need to be taken out & put back in properly.
-
Make sure you dont get one of Rizoma's earlier reservoirs because they leak through the window.
-
When my bike was having trouble getting into the first two gears I took the cover off and found the washer from the speedo cable against the magnet. I thought that may have been the problem but after closely looking at the shifting mechanism I determined that the upper gear that has the shifting pin catches had gotten off track somehow.
I took the whole thing apart & reassembled it until it worked smoothly & I've never had any problems with it since. I think that old washer probably fell right down to the magnet & had been lying there for about two years so it wasnt the cause of the problem at all. I'm thinking it was more likely I shifted too hard or missed a shift & it jumped track a little.
Anyway what you describe sounds like the problems I was having. Take the cover off & try to turn the gears by hand. If they dont turn easily BOTH WAYS you can bet that its the same problem I had.
-
I'm wondering how hard it would be to scrap the shaft drive altogether & go with a chain drive? That would drop probably 25lbs right there.
-
It's been a few years since posting on this board but I am entertaining getting another guzzi and need some advice. I have owned the standard v11 Lemans and a Norge. Both are now gone. I liked the v11 motor more than the Norge's 1200. What I didn't like about the standard lemans was the marz suspension. And, my wrists and neck can no longer tolerate the clipons so I'm leaning toward a 04 v11 Cafe Sport or Coppa Italia with the standard bars.
I'm seeing some good deals on these Ohlins sporting beauties lately ($6500-$7000 range). I also see used Grizo 1100's for around $8500. My hesitation about the Griso is the suspension. I have heard a mixture or comments from great to way too stiff. Does anyone have experience with the Ohlins v11 suspension versus the Griso 1100 suspension? Which is better? My guess is that the Ohlins is better. But I do love the looks of the Griso. Greg Field are you out there?
Thanks
I think the Griso has a more relaxed riding position so that would probably be a more comfortable ride than a v11. As for the suspension, there are lots of good aftermarket mods that you can do to either bike to make it suit you. For example Hyperpro makes very good replacement springs & shocks.
-
Sorry to revive this old thread--at least I m doing my homework. I do have a shock spanner, but is there a way to use it on the shock adjusters without removing damn near everything (tank AND airbox)? Removing side panels and rising tank won't do. So far the drift and mallet seem like the only option.
In purgatorium Luigi will adjust the shock preload for hours a day.
This sounds like yet one more good reason to pull out the airbox & put on some K&N pods!
When I want to adjust my preload, the pods come off with the turn of a screw & its all wide open for you.
Oh yeah, & those side panels belong on a shelf...probably next to the airbox. There are a few people that dont like the pods for various reasons, but they sure do make it easier to work on.
-
Yes, thanks Rich and others.
I didn't mean to imply that I'm inept.
I'm well aware of the whys & wherefores of suspension but that's not the point.
I should explain I bought this from a bike shop owner and I'm appalled at his lack of concern for detail.
One tube is higher than the other, why would anyone conciously spin both tubes around so the lettering is upside down (upside down forks...of course!) the rear fender was cut off with a Stihl 025 and other little niggles & burps.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not a protectionist at all. Cut the damn motorcycle in half if that pleases...but de-burr the edges and sweep up your swarf when you're done!
Thanks again I appreciate any and all responses.
The guy didnt spin the tubes around after he had the caps on. What he did was put the tubes in, clamp them tight then he put the caps back on. I'm sure he figured it was easier to leave it that way than to loosen all the clamps & spin the tubes so that the lettering was right side up. If he didnt take the time to make sure both tubes were at the same height I would be going over that bike with a fine toothed comb. Check everything to be tight, valve clearance, fluid levels...everything.
-
Thank you.
I think I'll need to speak with the former owner as each tube height is slightly different but both are 2-3mm above the clamp and both tubes are spun around so "Compression" and "Rebound" are upside down. <_>
I'm well aware that in and of themselves these are no concern, but exactly what went on here I'd like to know.
Maybe he just didn't like to read and ride.
Well for the tubes being slightly above the clamps, he probably wanted a sportier riding position. As for the caps reading upside down, when you change the fork oil you have to pull the tubes off the bike. When he put the tubes back in he probably clamped everything in tight before he put the fresh fork fluid in & then put the caps on. Its an easy enough thing to change if it bothers you.
Theres a pinch bolt at the top on each side then two other pinch bolts lower down the front of the fork assy on each leg. Just loosen them up & turn the tubes. You may have to take the weight off the front wheel though, I'm not sure.
-
Do you mean the new flywheel went bad? Or is it just the friction plate is worn out? Either way is bad because you have to take it all apart. BUT a friction plate, like a brake pad is a wearable item.
-
Not to confuse matters, but here's a handy dandy figure that may be helpful to those inclined to ponder such things. . .
Again using my own weight, I ran the laden vs. unladen weights and % biases thru the calculator and came up with a "universal" ratio for fore-aft rider weight bias added to the unladen bike for riders of any weight. For my Sport (see disclaimer above) it's this:
Rider weight bias by wheel
F/R, 37/63 %
That is, a rider of any weight and "normal" physical proportions (no elephant butt or other grossly swollen extremities, and not missing any significant body parts
) will contribute to the laden weight bias of a similarly configured V11 Sport by adding 37% of his weight to the front tire and 63% of his weight to the rear tire.Hope this helps.
EDIT: Just to throw a pre-emptive fence around any errant tangential challenge, (oh, it's coming, make no mistake
), the MAX LOAD ratings on road tires ARE NOT an indicator of solo rider laden bias on any moto. Consider that road tires (as opposed to race tires) are engineered to meet MAX LOAD ratings appropriate for passenger and cargo. FWIW, Metzeler Z6 MAX LOAD (LOAD RANGE B ) are: F/R, 520/716 lbs.
Ok I think from what you are saying that a larger portion of the weight goes to the rear than the front. Therefore a heavier rider will send more weight to the rear than a lighter one which makes sense. 37/63 is a pretty big spread, I had no idea it was that far from even.
-
Good Q, Richard.
On the V11, the rider's weight, regardless of number, is always going to center aft of the center of weight of the bike, as the laden vs. unladen scale numbers indicated.
My observation above was based on this measurement. To take an exaggerated hypothetical as an example -- by extrapolating from the numbers I got, if a rider weighed half of my weight -- 90 lbs. (somewhere, I reckon there is one
), the laden F/R weight bias would be very close to 45/55 %.Not too shabby, eh?
I may have to finish this whole pot of coffee before that completely sinks in! lol
-
Front-to-Rear Weight Bias of the 2000 Guzzi Sport
FWIW, here's wot I came up with, from a post nearly 3 years back. Had to look it up myself because I couldn't remember.
Measurements were made one wheel at a time, with wheels blocked up even and level.
Here's wot I found:
DISCLAIMER: I weigh 180 lbs without riding gear. Measurements were made without riding gear. My Guzzi is a slightly modified 2000 Sport. The most significant mods likely to affect front-rear weight bias are replacement of stock mufflers with FBF carbons, and a list o' such trifling matters as the addition of a Stucchi flyscreen, Throttlemeister 14 oz. bar-ends, a smattering of extra relays and heavy gauge wire, a set o' Fiamm Highway Blaster horns, a Stucchi crossover, Roper plate, etc. The latter items I consider negligible to the exercise. Measurements were made with a half-tank of fuel. Laden readings were taken in riding position, as would be the case when taking suspension sag measurements.
534 lbs. = unladen
714 lbs. = laden
47/53 = F/R % unladen bias
42/58 = F/R % laden bias
This^ was actually not as bad as I had expected.
Coupla observations:
While both the total weight and the weight bias of the V11 design (either taken alone, IMHO), take the Guzzi Sport OUT of the category of modern, nimble-handling Sport machines of today, (some would say it's pretty far out, regardless) It's not all that far out, IMHO.
Raising the bars would shift the laden weight bias rearward - potentially a significant amount.
Heavier riders would shift the weight bias rearward, and lighter riders would shift the bias forward.
Ciao.
Config. as weighed
I have an enquiring mind, so I would like to know...
If a heavier rider shifts the weight rearward, why would a rider that weighs less shift the weight forward? Given the riders sit on the bike in the same way the weight should always head in the same direction shouldnt it?
-
I was thinking about a layer of insulation first, then some lead shot, then more insulation.
Thats not as cool as nitrogen filled shock absorbing carbon fiber anti fuzzy mirror stabilizers, but its the best I can do.
-
Richard, is the lead shot in direct contact with the reflective coating on the back of the mirrors? If so, I'd expect vibration of the shot to wear the backing down to clear glass in pretty short order.
Oh well I'll just have to fishhook the insulation out & remove the lead shot.
Transmission failure on my Coppa Italia
in Technical Topics
Posted
I have an idea. If you adjusted your shift linkage too much its probably banging against the frame when you try to upshift. Get on your knees and move the shift lever by hand and look to see if the linkage is striking the frame. If it is then you just have to back it off a few turns & you're good to go.