John A

Looking for a pair of injected sport heads with manifolds john

Maybe you should put the Sport pistons in your California along with the larger valved heads? Just a thought, Mike Mike I see the wisdom of your suggestion so I'm looking for a set of injected Sport heads and manifolds and would only use Mike Riches pistons, I think they are a much better product than the FBF's. After I find a set of heads, I'll send them to Mike Rich for a stage one port and dual plugging. I spose I better give him a call to see if some year heads are more desireable than others. So if anybody has a lead on some heads, please let me know, John

I like the heads I have on this one, dual plugged and ported with Sport throttle bodies, Mike said he got almost as good of flow numbers as the race bike. I also have a Megacycle cam, the old Norris SS grind. So it runs well. Doug Lofgren made the ECU map using FIM Ultimap software. It will ping on 87 octane if thats all I can find on the road and it is hot if I'm not careful.We took a group of timing out around 4K rpm.NO ping ever with 92 octane. Since I drag a sidecar, I need some more power to eliminate the inconvenience of having to downshift to 4th about 90mph when pulling a long hill on the interstate. I already have 7/33 gears and a ten spring clutch.I think the added compression is just what it needs and at 140K miles I would like a fresh set of pistons.I like the idea of SportI heads but I don't have any and wouldn't want to loose air velocity with the bigger valves especially after Mike's work has made these flow so well. The extra set of pistons is for my friend who has mostly LeMans&Sports and wants his Cal to run better. Cheers, John

I have a standing order with Mike for two sets for a Cal series engine when they get made. Last year I tried to generate some interest on WildGuzzi but no luck. So maybe there are a few here that are interested? John

Any filter that you put on, foam or gauze should be at least 2.5 tmes the diameter in length. In other words you dont want the end cap of the filter too close to the opening it atatches to or it interfers with the pulses of air. 2.5 is the theroretical minimum, I have gone less with no noticable effects. Where it really makes a difference is foam caps over velocity stacks. She wont run at wide open throttle that way.

What I would do is put the probe leads on it and see what it reads at wide open throttle. it Should be al least 80% of the reference voltage which is 5 volts.anyway it is easy to tweak when you use the wide open position rather than the fully closed because the fully closed position with the stop screw backed out is not a positive stop and you cannot get repatability on your tweaks like you can if you use the wide open stop.Its a more precicse way to adjust if you are adjusting for driveability issues and already have the base setting. and .001 volt makes a noticable difference, at least with my tuneup. Tweak it and see what it does, most of the time I don't have to alter the other settings, except maybe idle speed, Luck, John

Doug Lofgren,master tuner, told me that BMW's went through the same scenario when fitted with aluminum timing gears. Some lived, most filled the sludge tube with aluminum, although I have no personal knowledge of those, I thought it was interesting.

My TPS started acting up after 90K miles so tonight I put in a new Harley TPS. I set TPS at wide open throttle and dont much care what it is at idle.I could only get 4.77 volts at WOT. For this particular bike it likes 4.84 at WOT. If I left the screws out of the Harley TPS it would go up to 4.93 but the slots wouldn't line up with the screw holes. So I put in my spare Guzzi TPS and set it to 4.84 at WOT. No troubles works great again,Just thought I'd let you all know.

Yea, I just popped the one link off. 485mv sounds about right but it's worth playing with as each engine seems a little different as an assembly.

I find it easier when setting the TPS for experimental tuning to do it at wide open throttle.The reading is always the same when you hit the stop.When you use the idle stop it floats around some depending how hard you push on it.Easier repeatability on the wide open stop. Theoretically the TPS should read at least 80% of the reference voltage [ 5 volts] at WOT. .01 volts makes a big difference on how it runs.If it's set too much when you ride it you will notice a slight acceleration when you slowly close the throttle.

Skeeve I completly agree and I am also electronically challenged. I get those pesky solder leaks just after the smoke leaves. I've got it in my mind to build a mechanical fuel injection with some Hilborn injectors or similar just because I've never seen it on a Guzzi but someone must have done it.Anybody ever seen one?

I'm guessing 10.9 or better cuz I've never had the head twist off even as hard as they are to get out.

Metric stainless have a different marking system than the ferrus.There are property classes 50,70 and 80 with corresponding grades of A1, A2 and A4, roughly equivelent to SAE grades 2, 5 and 8.There are others but that's the gist of it.The heads will be marked with the manufacturer and the grade.I use A4 when I replace disc bolts and I always do for the factory bolts are one time use.If you get new ones from the dealer they come with a locking adhesive already applied.Blue 242 medium strength loctite is sufficient. The anti tamper paint that is found on fuel system adjustment areas is Torque Seal and comes in different colors.I like to put it on just to screw with peoples heads.

JRT what I like to do for a power source is add 2 or 3 automatic reset circuit breakers as close to the battery as possible and run a super well insulated feed wire from the battery + to them.Then you have power for about anthing you want to run.Of course the real deal would be to have a feeder CB bolted right on the battery + but I havn't found a small enough one yet.

It was a very early 15M ECU and it was before any dealers that were within 800 miles had any software to change it with.It sure ran crappy and there was no information to be had anywhere on them.I tweaked everything that was possible to tweak.I also thought maybe the cam chain was too loose.Long story short:FIM UltiMap and Doug Lofgren who has been doing carb and fuel injection since before he was weaned.All new fuel and ignition maps,on the dyno .I had to scramble to get all the engine mods done before the scheduled dyno time.Dual plug heads,1100 Sport throttle bodies,cam and all that.Plus I had to make sure all my tweaks were exactly as they should be.I set the phase sensor to the minimum spec,.6mm and the maps were made with that.Lord knows it's hard enough just to keep the damn things running right and it takes a different mindset to be a high performance mechanic,the more you squeeze out of the machine the more you have to tend to it.

I agree but in this case I was trying to make the erratic running better when all along it was a software problem.

I went out to the shop to have a look at my notes,I had set the reluctor gap at .6mm before the trip to Doug Lofgren's dyno.It makes sense to me to set that gap at the minimum.I see from my notes that I did try it at less than .6 for a while but ended up out to .6 because of reliability concerns.

I put a relay on the brake light on most Guzzi's,been doing it for years and it's been reliable.Makes the switches last longer and gives a slightly brighter light.Plastic sockets will melt over time and the contacts move around so I convert them to metal.There are a million different metal sockets so I look for one that is plain without flanges.The best way I've found to prepare the Guzzi light is to heat a 1/4" drive deep socket that is a little smaller than the new metal light socket and push it through.Then with a sharp knife trim off the melted stuff that you don't need and then I use a die grinder or Dremel to finish fit. too tight and it may crack.Then epoxy or Jb weld the new socket in place.

Yeah I know but I reduced it with no ill effects,Took out one or two shims.I think it runs a little better.As the block heats up it expands moving the sensor farther away.I did not measure that but I did take it into consideration.I'm just saying I did it and I believe I achieved what I was trying to do.Others may not be so lucky and so should stick to the factory specifications.

I reduced the clearance between the sensor and the cam wheel to maybe make the timing more stable,I'm sorry I don't remember how much but I remember the first time I did it I didn't have the cover off so I measured and guessed and got it a little tight because it actually rubbed.That didn't seem to hurt anything and you could see on the sensor a rub mark so when I had the cover off I set it less than the book says.I don't know if it helped or not but I think it did.The problem was I did so many things at that time it's hard to tell what did what.I've had the same tuneup now for at least 60K miles so all I do now is clutches and tires with the occasional brake pad change.Raz, I like your attitude!

No Pete,I was putting us both in the same pile,seems that people who actually think about things and do experiments to achieve a desired out come are often the brunt of someone's ire.I really appreciate the way you press on while I won't even tell most people about some of the things I've done because I would have to argue some pretty basic stuff and teach class and they still scoff and won't believe me,I just don't have the drive to do that anymore and admire that you do and hope you will continue,it inspires me. Thanks,and Best Regards,John

Some years ago when I modified my engine and got a FIM map I decided the automatic temp function was something I wanted to control myself.I had already made an aluminum sensor holder but still I thought it was too rich when the ambient temp was below 60F.I used a potentiometer and it operates like an electric choke.When it is below 65F the engine will not start unless I dial in some resistance.I remember I put a resistor in line,I think it was 5K, It is my belief that the ECU uses that to verify a functioning temp sensor.Some careful study of the books will need to be made,it was so long ago.I also use a DPDT switch so I can select either the potentiometer or the head temp sensor but it has been so trouble free I just use the dial.When it's cold out I used to switch it to the sensor but milage would drop into the mid 30's so soon after it starts I turn the dial to off or full warm.The engine runs perfectly in either mode,just rich when I select the temp sensor.I had this operation verified on the dyno when we installed and made the FIM ECU maps. Hope this helps someone and a note to Pete : I'm fulla shit too so don't let it bother you! John

That would be Doug Lofgren,I'll bet.I had him tune mine about 5 years ago when I put on Mike Rich dual plugged heads.At that time he used the FIM Ultimap which is flashloaded into the ecu.There is a code that goes with it so after the box is tweaked the first time subsequent tuning is cheaper as you have already paid for the program.I used that because I needed to also adjust the ignition timing and the other programs were not out yet.After 5 years and 60K miles I am still satisfied.If Doug does it, it'll be right but it aint cheep.Keep us posted,John

I did this,I bought a VDO electronic programmable 160 mph speedo with a pulse generator from Jegs.I used a scrap speedo to construct an adapter to run a tach cable[shorter] from the trans speedo output to the pulse generator under the tank.Once it was set it was dead accurate.There are three setting modes: pulse numbers,Known distance or adjusting on the fly with radar gun.It fit in the original speedo cup with some homemade "T" bolts holding it down.The reason I quit using it was it is not water resistant even though I sealed up the bezel and would keep condensing inside.I has two lighting bulbs and running the highest wattage bulbs I could find helped as well as covering it when it rained.Now if the thing is water resistant it would work,and Autometer has a water resistant one but the last time I looked at their selection they did not mention a pulse generator to go with it so I havn't persued finding a triggering device. John