callison
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Posts posted by callison
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Under the front left side of the fuel tank there are two bullet connectors (yellow wires) that run from the alternator to the main wiring loom. You should probably take them apart (they're AC so polarity isn't an issue), clean them, tighten the female connectors by squeezing them with pliers just a tad and then re-assembling them with dielectric grease.
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Greg Field,Gary Cheek,Carl Allison,Dlaing,Belfastguzzi,Ratchethack( I miss his wit and knowledge,and yes it's not necessary to note you don't,we've heard it many times),Dan,Docc,Ryland,Jaap,Pete Roper,Mike Wilson and many others ,all were here when I showed up in 2006 and been very supportive and helpful.
To the next generation,...
I'm still here, just not very active these days.
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Some prototype renderings:
Marabese Design V10 concept.
Marabese Design V11 LeMans concept. It's pretty easy to Photo Shop a fairing onto a picture of a 2000 V11 Sport green meanie - for them, I couldn't do it!
These two prints were auctioned off by Marabese Design about ten years ago. I lost on the V10 but won the V11 LeMans concept print. It's less impressive in person but still something that looks good hanging on the wall in the den. Which it did before I moved. Now I don't which box it's in.
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Whenever I have had crankcase vent issues I always check the system for blockage. There should be zero pressure in the system to force oil out of the system.
A pinched line or a blockage somewhere might be causing pressure in a system that was not designed for pressure.
Other than that, I have used that product, it is just silicone RTV in a pressurized can that makes it easy to apply. It does what it is supposed to do.
Nah. It's just a piss-poor design. Had MG designed the part with a slightly larger flange and circle groove using a standard o-ring , it would've worked fine. Instead it has a serpentine design for the sealing ring guaranteed to never seal properly. Boeing used to use some stuff to seal aircraft wing tanks back in the '70's called "595" and for sure it would seal it - but you might never get the fitting off if you need to.
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The Sport 1100i "Bright Red Italian Bugswatter" that started an era of Guzzi circuit diagrams has been sold to a gentleman in the Denver area and will hopefully resurface someday. I'll miss it but recent surgery for SLAC wrist precludes ever riding a bike with clipons again. I retain my 2004 Stone/Ural sidecar rig and continue to look for a 7/33 gearset for the rear on that bike. If anyone has a spare lying around, please PM me.
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I hear ya. I bought a used 2001 V11 Sport TT at my local Ducati dealer back in the day. The PO has somehow convinced the dealer that he could take care of the assembly and paperwork himself. Not a huge problem until you use the part number on the exhaust pipe as the VIN and also pay cash for the bike. In California, where I was at the time, paying cash means an automatic investigation for drug money laundering. Add in the horribly incorrect number for the VIN and you get a vehicle that has not been registered and never will be until all of the paperwork has been corrected. I had to get a LEO verify the actual VIN on the frame and smog equipment for the DMV and after that it only took an additional 14 months to get registered. Then I unfortunately wrecked the bike, but kept the bike and title rather than having it totalled by the insurance company (bad move). I reassembled the bike with a replacement frame from the U.K. with no certificate of origin or bill of sale - and my misery began all over again. It was going to be next to impossible to get that mess resolved in California but I happened to move to Oklahoma in the middle of all of that and out there, it only took 11 months to get a state issued VIN. For year 2005. Up went the registration fee and insurance since it was now a "custom" bike even though it was mostly stock. Kinda. Sorta. Registering a vehicle with previously messed registration appears to be a pain no matter where you are.
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Immediately after buying a 2004 Stone sidecar rig last year (with only 4970 miles on it!) the speedometer crapped out. Gears totally trashed. I could've bought another potential failure geared Veglia unit but chose instead to buy a SpeedHut GPS based speedometer. No cable, gears etc so if I change the gearing on the rig, there's no problem with recalibrating the speedo. About the only thing I would point out for the installation of this model of Speedhut is to take ALL of the extra antenna cable - and there is a lot - and bury it under the tank where it's well shielded from electronic interference. As an aside, don't check the output of the inverter inadvertently as it's several hundred volts. BTDT, bought the t-shirt. Whatever.
Also, although I didn't know it at the time, there are SpeedHut units better suited for motorcycle use by virtue of sealing and positioning of some case penetrations. You can as well, get a custom logo at the time of purchase and there are several very good files of various Moto Guzzi logos right here on v11lemans.com!
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There was a reference from the MPH folks in Houston, Texas, USA after the last dealers meeting with Piagio that there was indeed a new sport bike forthcoming. Heavy non-disclosure agreements would prevent any further information as well as photos. It makes sense to drape a cover over a bike - any bike - as a stand-in for something we haven't seen yet. I doesn't matter that the MAS race bike was borrowed for the stand-in.
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I've heard of the following procedure but I'd wait for Pete Roper to confirm the validity of it.
If you want to pressurize the oil system prior to running the bike, remove the outer spark plugs then reconnect them to the spark plug wires and clip-lead the plug bodies to the cylinder fins so that there is a ground return path (failure to do so will likely ruin the coil). With the compression out of the picture because a plug is out, cranking the engine over won't put any undue pressure on the bearings. Run the starter long enough to pump oil to the bearings, return the plugs and wires to the original configuration and start the bike.
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Blimey Carl, what are you planning for $2k?
Rather a lot of stuff but half of it is getting it put together by someone that knows what they're doing - which excludes me!
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As i know they have different piston. V11 had black surface on it. Temperature sensor is mounted on Cylinderhead - V11 or Rockercover - 1100 sport. But anyway thank you i will try it and send you feedback.
The V11 Sport heads were different than the Sport 1100i's and so were the pistons. The V11 Sport barrel is I think, identical in all the necessary areas to swap into the Sport 1100i. I hope to heaven that the Sport 1100i I'm about to throw another $2000 worth of engine work into doesn't have deteriorating cylinder wall plating.
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The V11 Sport left cylinder has the newer temperature sensor mount point. Other than that, I think they should be completely compatible.
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Update
Still chasing this problem. Removed the ignition switch (via removal of the top triple clamp and two bolts through the dash) but discovered that - with respect to the AMP connector, there are differences between the 1999 schematic referenced above, and the actual wiring on my bike.
Schematic shows ignition switches I+J (pins 1+2) for the headlight (which works) and K+L (pins 3 and 4) for the missing F6/7 (indicators / taillight) - but in fact I+K (pins 1+3) switch the headlight and J+L (pins 2+4) the missing items. I confirmed this by jumping pins 2 and 4 on the AMP connector and saw the indicators working. (Jumping pins 1+3 activates headlight also)
I repaired the damaged yellow wire (L or pin 4) but still only get switching between pins 1+3, but not 2 and 4
So my problem would apear to be in the switch (or associated wiring tail). The black (plastic) part is held on by two cross-head screws, can be removed and (presumably) contains the moving electrical connectors. The upper (metal) mechanical part of the switch seems to be working normally (as evidenced by working headlight) ...
Question - how to I take apart the electrical portion to determine where the problem might be?
Now I'm trying to remember where in hell I got the I, J, K & L pinouts from. The original schematic has them as 1, 3, 4 & 2 repectively. TIme to "repair" another schematic I guess...
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Aside from being entirely in German (I know, whine, complain etc. ), the Mac version will not "Quit" on my Macintrash iMacI7. It has to be force quit. At some later point, I'll download the PC version and see if it runs under W7 under VMWare. Ya never know, maybe it'll be just the thing you need.
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My 1996 Sport 1100's tail section took a dive and I need to find the silver paint code. I also need to track down the part # for the maroon/red and gold decal set. The only decals I've been able to locate so far are black and gold.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
http://www.mgcn.nl/index.php/mg-paint-codes-dameijer-database-40
MGCycle Decal, fuel tank Cal3 gold and red pair[Part Number: MG121]
Check the size, perhaps this will fit.
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Thanks for the advice, I am looking for the square case that suits the later model V11 with the IAW15M ecu. I understand there is a scooter and some kind of a car that has this item - just don't know which.
I seem to recall it was one of the FIAT Pandas ['97-2k1?] We know it was a 4cyl [the WM15 can only support four injectors] & a FIAT. What would be really funny is if the FIAT that used the WM15 was the same model Guzzi stole the air filter element from!
Go ahead and laugh. I read a few years back that one of the Fiat air filters fit the V11 Sport airbox just fine.
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That's a nice project. Just as an aside, the V11 Sport rear sub-frame, seat and tank (with appropriate positional modifications) would probably have bolted right onto the Centauro frame.
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Sure 'nuff...
Remember this one?
I thought it was just a cartoon.
Seems I was wrong.
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I picked up a pair of these things at an auction the other night. It was one of those things where I knew it was a high grade stainless steel but noooo idea what it was. The things weigh 10lbs each and are about 6" tall and 3" wide at the bottom. They are threaded with huge threads so whatever they screw onto must be huge.
If you know or would like to throw out a guess please have at it!
Caps for the Hulk's thermos bottle maybe?
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I loved my V7 Café - after I added rearsets to change the seating position and put on Pirelli Sport Demon tires. Suspension wasn't great, truly a throwback to the '70's but I could take it to reasonable extremes without wobbles or anything. Geometry wasn't racebike but then I'm not a roadracer either. I traded the Café in on a 2013 Racer recently mostly because the suspension (in back at any rate) was better, the frame had a jewel of a paint job and the engine doesn't look like my old air compressor any more. The chrome tank I got used to. Number plates came right off, silly looking and not representative of what the bike really is. I left the faux leather tank holder on because I found I actually liked it and it's handy to slide the mail under as I come back from the mailbox. The new motor is a very large improvement over the older version even if the power increase is marginal. I am getting 52-58mpg and with the larger tank, that sort of justifies the bike change. I really like the little bugger but even better is the crowd it draws when I'm at a gas station or parked somewhere in public. It's a good opportunity to introduce people to Moto Guzzis.
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I can't remember where I got this one. Who cares...
I'm really happy with my 2013 V7 Racer though.
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Pretty cool. For this, round fins rule.
2001 V11 Sport stalling problems
in Technical Topics
Posted
Do the tune up since that's the most reasonable point to start with. My (long-gone) Sport 1100i would stall at idle and any point between that and 4000 rpm as much as 15 times in a city block. I replaced almost everything I could think of but the last thing I changed was actually the culprit - a weak/worn timing chain tensioner.