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plexiform

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Posts posted by plexiform

  1. Anyone know what the color code for the scura black paint is? Or some aftermarket color that would closely match it... I'm thinking of changing my scura back to a scura.. The custom paint by previous owner is done professionally but I've always been a fan of the original scura look.

  2.  

     

    The bike looks gorgeous! My tail rack was a bit wider but sprung back easy when tightened. I'm glad it wasn't smaller!

     

    If those side covers and front fender are carbon fiber, I can recommend a product called Flitz. It's a fine aluminum polish and it worked well for me on my CF dash panel. I used it on the sun faded tail body paint too. A little elbow grease and it shined up great.

     

    Will that product Flitz put the shine back in the CF parts?  mine are definitely faded.

     

     

    I was afraid to use it on my CF mufflers only because they used less resin in construction, creating a more textured surface. Sun fading caused them to have a dry and rough surface. I thought the white creamy polishing compound would be a mess. I used Flitz on my CF dash panel and a BMW CF front fender like yours. It made them look new. They had a smooth resin surface to start with under that sun fade, and they polished up just like the aluminum that the product was made for. Works well on paint fade too. Just be careful to not polish right through the paint. It takes all that dry chalky crap right off. I have only used a moist rag and fingers, be veeerrry careful to use an electric tool. It will put a shine on the 'factory flat' dulled finishes, and will restore the faded pork chops too. Probably any high quality metal polish will do the same thing. I just always have a tube of Flitz around.

    Did I say.. your bike is beautiful?

     

    ps. I used it to clean my head pipes when they were off last winter. It cleaned off everything, and put a nice polish on as well.

    Thanks. I will order a tube of it and give it a try.

  3. The bike looks gorgeous! My tail rack was a bit wider but sprung back easy when tightened. I'm glad it wasn't smaller!

     

    If those side covers and front fender are carbon fiber, I can recommend a product called Flitz. It's a fine aluminum polish and it worked well for me on my CF dash panel. I used it on the sun faded tail body paint too. A little elbow grease and it shined up great.

    Will that product Flitz put the shine back in the CF parts?  mine are definitely faded.

  4. Added a factory rear rack and rear tail bag.  Should have been easy but ran in to a couple speed bumps:

    1.  had to remove rear cowl to access top bolts on rear footpeg bracket but stripped the right sided bolt that connects front part of cowl to subframe near tank.  That took an entire day to fix.  Had to cut the head of the bolt with a dremel tool then cut the washer behind it and then manually turned it out with vise grip pliers.  

    2.  Not sure if the rack is intentionally made to be slightly wide and require 'forcing' in to position to be mounted on or that was just a variation in mine.  But it required a lot of muscle to get the rack to be forced into position, but it looks perfectly symetrical and a very sturdy rack once mounted and tightened in place.  Essentially the open ends of the rack were further apart than the distance between the to rear footpeg brackets and this aluminum rack is not that maleable.  But worked out fine in the end so maybe it was engineered this way.  Anyone else have this issue?

    3.  The tail bag is nice because it says moto guzzi on it but i think they could have done a better job with that piece.  The rack itself...amazing quality finish.  

     

     

    scura1.jpg

    • Like 2
  5. Bought this one on Ebay this weekend and it came with the MG Tail bag.  Can't say I love the tail bag as I think there is better quality from third party makers like cortech, etc. but the build quality, fit and finish of the rack itself is amazing.

    scura1.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. IMG_0333.jpg

     

    IMG_0334.jpg

     

     

    Called the Tank Shop today and they said they cannot make this tank unless they have the bike in the shop for mock up purposes to ensure proper fitment.  Has anyone been able to get this tank made recently and if so how did you overcome the issue of needing a bike in the shop?  Anyone local in that area able to take your bike there to assist with fitment?  That is one cool looking tank.

  7. hope that fixed it. when tracking a problem and blowing fuses, I think one of these comes in handy. auto reset fuse (breaker)

     

    I didn't buy this one... went to auto zone.

     

    http://www.delcity.net/store/Maxi-Fuse-Breakers/p_152.h_187700.t_1.r_IF1003?mkwid=sIDeGB8L5&crid=38094426869&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=Cj0KEQjw2ua8BRDeusOkl5qth4QBEiQA8BpQcFbVhyD5KdX_f3d2AikNATPwHG_2iTrcJ-M-1rS-DtIaAoml8P8HA

     

    Seems to have worked.  

     

    Loosened the steering damper a little and added some air to the tires and already feels better.  I'll have to look in to adjusting the front suspension also.  might need to be a little looser.

  8. Yup that was it! Electric petcock and for some reason previous owner did not have a fuse installed for it. I guess the one time I started it when I went to pick it up there was already enough fuel in the lines but by the time I tried it at home it needed more fuel out of the tank which did not happen because the peacock was not functioning. Thanks for your help!

     

    Took it out for a ride and it sounded good. Suspension needs some tweaking. Feels a little too stiff in the steering damping which makes it feel awkward.

  9. Could it be this simple???

     

    I just noticed the 8th fuse spot was empty.   But the fuse box cover says it should have a 15a fuse in it.  I placed a new 15 fuse in it and this time the bike started.   What is that fuse for?  I only let the bike run for a few moments and shut it off because its not even 7am and my neighbors would not appreciate the revving.  Will wait an hour and start it again and go for a ride.

  10. So the starter does turn and the engine is turning but then it all starts to slow down pretty quickly.  And if I keep pressing the start button for more than a few seconds then it will blow the fuse.  I stopped before the fuse blew this time. 

     

     

    Yes I think youre right about the psychological insult due to the paint job.  It looks pretty nice in person but this Scura is definitely acting out big time!

     

    I'll order those relays.

  11. Does the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds each time you cycle the ignition or kill switch? It might be hard to hear but it should also start and run while the engine is cranking (I'm thinking is the timing sensor ok, fuel pump ok)

     

    Check for spark at each plug

     

    Measure the resistance from each plug cap to chassis.

     

    Anyone know an easy way to measure the fuel pressure? (about 45psi I think, that would also confirm the pumps running)

     

    Make sure you have a good pair of relays in position 4 & 5

     

    Measure the TPS mV, it should be in the 400 - 500 range, rise steadily to about 4-1/2 Volts with throttle opening.

     

    With the bike cranking over measure the Voltage at the switched fuses, I'm wondering if there's excessive Volts dropped somewhere like thru the switch, starving the ECU

    On that note is the ECU connected to battery negative?

     

     

     

    Don't despair Plexiform she is just testing to see if you are worthy :grin:

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    1. Despair is definitely setting in

  12. Ground is in place behind seat lock as described above. I get 12.8v across the battery and across the positive lead and anywhere on the frame so I am assuming that means ground is doing what it's supposed to. Is that a correct assumption...? Haven't delved in to the ignition switch yet but that will be next. If there are any other thoughts I'm all ears.

  13. so i went with a Yuasa AGM and filled it and charged it for 20hours per instructions.  Got 13.28v across the leads at full charge and then installed it and tried it out.  Same thing happened: fuse blew and bike did not start.  Not sure whats going on.  There are currently 3 wires connected to each lead.  I checked behind the helmet lock and did nnot see any wires attached to the frame so not sure where the ground is going.  Anyone able to explain or show a picture of what the wires on the battery leads should look like?  Thanks

     

    I will look at the ignition switch in the meantime.

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