Janusz

I might as well throw in a tip for the bar vibration: The absolutely best remedy in my experience is installation of bar end mirrors, and specifically Japanese Napoleon brand since they are on the long stalks and pretty heavy. You kill two birds with one stone since these mirrors not only are fully functional but also add esthetically to the bike, especially non faired one like V11S or Scura.

I really do not know what purpose these covers serve, Oliver, but I can tell you for sure that they do not deteriorate your light beam at all. I can only suspect that these things were warranted by some government regulation. I just replaced the stock 60/55Watt bulb with a 100/80 Watt - the brand does not matter much I think. The alternator output is plenty and enough. Another thing altogether is your wiring and switch ability to cope with a higher wattage. I have to admit that I did not check that although it is very easy. All you need is a jumper wire from the battery to your headlight (remember to put the kill swtch off); if it increases the brightness then you will need to install a relay. I am being lazy recently. By the way, just looking at the pictures I notice that the new (2002 and on?) bikes have a different pattern reflector glass; looks much clearer and with less ribbing. I wonder if it will improve the light any and if yes maybe it would be a good idea to replace it. I also suspect that European versions have a different (and if yes, then surely better) reflector altogether. Thats all I know, Oliver. Greetings.

Here, DUDE, the previous page. You are one more victim of "knowledgable" dealers. You do not need "three hands" to start your bike. All you need is to modify the barrel like I explained above (try to find it). Again, you do not "enrichen" fuel injection by any mechanical means. The computer (ECU) varies the duration of the injection as per various sensors and you do not have a direct control over it. It is all well explained in yours Owners Manual.

The book "Guzziology" by the Moto Guzzi guru Dave Richardson from Seattle explains how later versions of X-over are actually another muffler made necessary by increasingly restrictive worldwide noise standards. Before thinking about aftermarket cans it would be a good idea to substitute a non muffler crossover. We are still lucky comparing to poor Swiss who get a catalytic converter built into their crossovers.

The factory Shop Manual and also the Owners Manual specifies nuts and bolts inspection and tightening every 10,000 km as well as after first 1,000 km and before delivery. I do not think there is too many dealers who would ever bother themselves doing it, and I do not think that this is even one of their biggest shortcomings. Therefore all my cars and motorcycles are never touched by any "technician" - I want them to be reliable and well maintained. The warranty is always worthless for me unless some part is really defective which does not happen too often. Sure, the initial familiarization with every new machine takes some time and effort, the manuals also cost money. But in a long run I do avoid all the aggravation, waisted time at the dealers and also save money, a lot. Of course an internal failure like Hank Blackstock experienced is a different matter. But nowadays things like that, although very unfortunate indeed, do not happen with any manufacturer too often.

Listen guys: THIS IS NOT ANY ENRICHER BUT JUST A THROTTLE STOP. What it means is that ALL it does is it just bumps your throttle alittle. Exactly like if you just crack your throttle with your right hand. We do not have carbs there therefore this is exactly what I said. All you need is just look at it again and then you'll see. Sorry for being so forcefull, but I hate to repeat myself over and over.

It DOES work in practice at least for me. Few extra comments: 1 -you have to enlarge the little movable barrel with some aluminum foil or even scotch tape (thats what I did) in order to increase the range of the throttle movement up to the designed magnitude. It will help your cold starting process by the way. 2 - the return spring is strong, true, but in time the "choke" lever will stiffen unless you grease it unnecessarily. Then you'll see how well this poor man cruise control works - its like a hand gas on old Italian cars. True, you will not go much faster then 100 km/hr in top gear but how fast you really want to go with your hands off the bar?

I think that our engine is very sensitive to the way how aggresively is driven, how high is revved and most importantly how cold or hot the ambient temperature is. Since I live in the high mountains and if it is not raining or icy will ride in any temperature and most of the time in a "sport" mode my gas mileage is quite low. The engine and injection are tuned perfectly I think and runs like a swiss watch. I am also amazed how it constantly improves with mileage (now at 10,000 km +). I wonder when this process will end.

My dealer, thank God, is a knowledgeable one. When I was replacing a stock bulb with a high output one he actually explained to me how to disassemble the reflector unit and adviced to remove the silly metal thingy. The light is as powerful as it should be and the "thing" is long time gone...

We all DO have a poor man's throttle lock on our bikes - the factory "choke". Since it is nothing more then a throttle stop (fuel injection, right?) it may be successfully used for this other purpose.

My stand, original Guzzi red one, fits only when the handle is on the right side of the bike and points forward. This is different then one or two pictures in the factory Shop Manual where you can see the stand with its handle on the left side of the bike and pointing backwards. If I were to try and fit my stand on the left side from behind then the muffler'd be in the way. Funny...and very Italian.

Could do me a favour Jaap and look down the stock x-over pipe and tell us if its hollow inside as per my post above? Thanks, John

I really do not see how the latches can be undone by accident by themselves even not locked with a key. Anyways, let my over 3000 km fast riding without locking with the key be a proof enough .

Thanks Jaap. After checking if my crossover contains an extra muffler I will perform similar operation on my cans.

Thats why I never lock them with the key, Orson, and avoid parking my bike with the bags on anywhere downtown in a city bigger then 50,000 population

Just by reading famous Guzziology I could not figure out if our bikes have crossover internals hollow or, like Jackal and Stone contain an extra muffler or even God forbid muffler AND catalytic converter like late Swiss models. Does anybody feel like taking the crossover out and tell us? You will be able to see straight through the crossover if there is no muffler inside. If the inlet immediately curves into the crossover without a direct path to the same side muffler, the crossover is also a muffler. If thats the case any hollow crossover will help a lot, even if it's not Stucci.

For me as far as the esthetics/looks go the stock set up is perfectly good enough. The only thing I am after is definitely more sound and some additional smoothing out and/or increase of the performance. Therefore the idea of gutting out/drilling holes in stock cans complemented with PClll seems perfect. Somebody already posted some info about it before but then it got lost in space. I am definitely planning to go this route but wouldn't like to be a guinee pig. Anybody having some thoughts, comments or info on it please post.

John, it will drop the rear height but only by approx. 6 mm whereas going for 70 profile, which you are deliberating, will raise it by approx. 10 mm. I'd rather change the whole wheel radius by only 6mm then by 10mm plus different tire profile. Think about that. Besides, if my suspicion as to narrower then nominal factory BT57 tire is true, my new tire will be almost exactly the same height as factory. By the way, increasing spring preload by only one turn raises your rear height by approx. 4 mm already...

Few comments here... On V11S 2000 and 2001 (the one I have) the original factory tire size is 170/60-ZR17 . The aspect ratio is 60 and only 60. The front tire aspect ratio is 70, but not rear. The factory did not specify or install 160 wide tire. The nominal size of the tire (whatever you can actually read off the tire's sidewall) only approximately corresponds to the actual measurments. One manufacturer's 170 tire might be some millimiters wider or narrower then another's. The factory specifies in the shop manual either Bridgestones BT020 or BT57. I have BT57 just about worn out at 9000 km. Some people after installation original (nominally) size but different make, I think Dunlop comes to mind, complained that the tire seemed to be squeezed to much on rather narrowish rim for a 170 wide tire. I suspect that factory specific BT57 170 wide tire is in reality somewhat narrower then 170 mm. Therefore I think that my replacement tire (which I decided to be a BT 010 Bridgestone of course) will be 160/60 and not 170/60. A rear BT010 is, by the way, not avaliable in 70 aspect ratio. It is available if you go for BT020 where you can choose between 160/60 and 160/70. Nevertheless I would not recommend switching to 70 profile.