rower307

I haven't had much response to my previous posting, so I'll probably trade in my bike this week or next. The dealer is not offering much, so it's still available at a much reduced price. This is a really nice bike, but the riding position is too hard on my arthritis. 2000 V11 Sport. Silver with red wheels & luggage rack. Givi side cases, taller windscreen, repositioned footpegs for more legroom. Power Commander, aftermarket silencers, hyperlites. Rich Maund saddle. Comes with parts to convert back to stock(saddle, windscreen, pegs), shop & parts manuals, shop stand, brand new unmounted Dunlop rear tire. 26,000 miles. I'd like to see it go to a good home. $4500 or talk....

I fought a similar charging problem for a long time. Problem turned out to be in the connectors from the regulator. They seem to snap together well, but it is the covering, not the metal. I cut away all the plastic, cleaned & tightened the metal connectors, & taped it up good. No more problem, been 2 months now. Also, I installed a voltage monitor LED from Signal Dynamics, gives a constant reading of battery voltage. Charging idiot light cannot be trusted. Hope this helps. JK

Just a note to let you know how well things can turn out..I was hit head on by a drunk driver in 1973, and my wife saw me get hit. The doctors told her I'd probably die, and that would be better because my head injuries were so bad(I was wearing a Snell helmet). After 3 days unconscious, and 9 months in a full leg cast, I steadily improved. The ability of the brain to repair itself is amazing! I have a 34 year career as a technician, I bicycle, row & jog, and except for my short leg & bad limp I'm as good as new. I believe that all the prayers that were said for me pulled me through. I will pray that your son heals up well and soon. God Bless you all. JK

My 2000 V-11 Sport keeps falling over, due to my balance problems & bad knees. 3x this spring. I'm gonna need to get something lighter & lower or 3 wheels. So I'm putting it up for sale. Silver with red wheels, Givi hard bags, luggage rack w/backrest. Has taller clear windscreen, peg relocator kit for more legroom, hyperlites LED taillights. New tach, regulator, rear wheel bearings, horns. Power Commander. Rich Maund saddle. Have all original parts (saddle, pegs, windscreen, etc.) Comes with a spare brand new rear Dunlop tire, service & parts manuals, Service stand. Located near Richmond, VA. $6000 or talk.

Also..one thing that threw me off was the charge indicator light never came on. I have installed a Signal Dynamics voltage monitor led so I can keep an eye on the charging system. It is a great addition to any bike.

I finally got it! Can't believe I spent so much time on such a simple fix. It was a bad connection at the bullet connectors coming from the alternator to the regulator. The plastic sleeves were giving the feel of a tight fit. I cut away the female plastic sleeve and found the metal female connector was just loose and corroded enough to open the circuit. Thanks to all who helped. Hope this saves somebody a lot of time.

I'm about to admit defeat on this. Did some routine maintenance on my 00 V11 Sport over the winter. Went riding, all OK till tach quit, followed by engine sputtered & died. Battery is not charging, battery light did not come on. Charged up battery, checked terminals, etc. Installed LED voltage monitor so I can keep track of charge. Rode 5 miles charging OK, then no charge. Ever since I have a solid no charge condition. I have replugged & cleaned with contact cleaner every connector I can find, replaced regulator, checked fuses, rotated relays(Bosch)/ Ran extra ground from regulator to frame & from steering head to frame. Battery is 2 years old, seems fine. Bike will start & run fine, but no charge to battery. This is a really nice bike once owned by Rich Maund. Givi bags, lots of upgrades & new parts. I need to ride, not spend all my time on this. Advice will be appreciated. Also, I will sell if the offer is reasonable. Bike located near Richmond, Virginia. Thanks!

I fought this battle with rear wheel bearings. Here's what worked for me: Heat the wheel area around the bearing(not the bearing itself) with a propane torch. Keep the bearing as cool as possible. Some folks even put ice on the bearing. Lay the wheel flat with that bearing down & tap it with a good quality sharp edged narrow round punch on the inner race. One end of the spacer should have 2 notches in it that you can get the tip of the punch into for a little better bite. The bearing popped right out for me, after a previous week of trying everything else. Hope this helps you. JK

The bearing wasn't bad yet, I just noticed a little rough feel in it when I had the wheel off. I think it got some grit in it from rainy riding. When I pulled it apart the grease & bearing look OK. The spacer is exactly the same length as the bearing shoulders. I gonna try it with the new bearings & keep an eye on it.

It's out!!! The rawbolt didn't work, probably because it was too small. Then my buddy suggested using a propane torch to heat the area around the bearing, but not the bearing itself. A couple whacks with a new steel punch, and it was on the floor. The spacer looks OK, and it measures about 113.8 mm. According to the posts I read, that's a little short but should work. I only have 1 Guzzi bearing that I paid a large amount of money for, but after reading I ordered 2 6204-LLB-C3 from BearingKinetics. I'll use them instead. Thanks for all your help. Any more thoughts? By the way..Check out the post called "Live to ride,Ride to die". It's a serious reality check. I'm already partially disabled after 2 wrecks, but when I get in the zone on a back road the thought of consequences disappears. This should keep me focused for a while.

No luck yet..I even put the wheel center on the stove burner, ruined 2 screwdrivers so far. However, the rawbolt idea looks promising. I'll look for one tomorrow. Also a friend suggested going in between the ball bearings with some kind of puller & pulling it out? Not able to have a whack at it today, will try again soon. Thanks for all your help!

No joy yet..I've read every forum response I could find. I think the previous owner might have made a new inner spacer. It has no slots and is almost exactly the same I.D. as the bearing, so I can't get a firm shot at the bearing to drive it out. Tried brass drift, steel punch and screwdrivers. Heated up the wheel with a hair dryer, but no luck. Any ideas?

My left rear wheel bearing(brake side) on my 2000 V11 Sport needs replacement..I've studied the factory manual and Guzziology, but still not clear. Do I need to remove the C-clip from the bearing before I drive it out, or can I drive the bearing out with the C-clip still on? I don't have a tool big enough to get it off while it's in place. I don't see a groove on the outside of the bearing. What does the C-clip fit into? I think I understand how to get the rest of the wheel apart, although I tried to pry off the cush drive hub and it wouldn't move. Seems I need to use more force. Any advice is appreciated. Don't want to booger up my wheel. Thanks.

I've got a National Cycle #N2522 shield on my 2000 V11. It's 17" tall, looks and works great. I've got stock bars on now but will probably get some risers, and I think it will work well with them. Check out their website. www.nationalcycle.com. JK