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JGP

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JGP last won the day on June 13

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  • Location
    Canada
  • My bike(s)
    2002 Moto Guzzi Scura, 1965 Harley Davidson Electra-Glide, 1960 Harley Davidson FLH, 1955 BMW R25/3, 1976 Yamaha TT 500, 1973 Kawasaki 350 S2 (gone), 1976 Yamaha XT 500 (gone), 1953 Vincent Black Shadow (gone)

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  1. Don't follow. Are you suggesting the Schnorr type washer is not a lock washer and a split ring washer is?
  2. Off topic. I have a rear tail light for an Aermacchi. Coffee can style. I bought it about 20 years ago on a whim. If you know anyone that may be interested in it, let me know. I need to go look for it, I think it was pretty much NOS.
  3. There is, on the single-plate clutch's aluminium flywheel, a steel "donut" that mates to the flywheel under the 6 bolts. I expect, that is intended to spread the force of the bolts over the flywheel surface (30 ft/lbs). I don't know how the dual-plate is set-up. I would not expect that there is any further need for a washer on those bolts, other than a possibly a lock- washer, depending on how you feel about it. All I know is that the factory use of washers and "Loctite" is inconsistent to the parts book or the repair manual as my ring gear bolts had no washers (locking or otherwise) but did have the "special sauce" applied. Additionally, there is no gap between the inner edge of the ring gear and the outer edge of the bolt. So, any washer used would need to have the same width as the head of the bolt. The transmission mounting studs had a combination of lock-washers and washers on some studs, and no washers on others, only lock-washers. Diagram A1 of the parts book identifies one stud has having a washer (4X) and the other that has a coupling bushing as not having a washer. There are 6 studs. So, i expect what the parts book is indicating is that where there is a coupling bush, do not use a washer, as 2 studs have coupling bushes. I had only 2 washers on all the studs, every stud had a lock washer.
  4. Thanks for your thoughts. The ring gear bolts, for example are only torqued to 12 foot/lbs. Not high torque, so I don't believe there is a lot of stress that needs to be spread. To your point, nearly 25 years and they were solid when they came out.
  5. I am not sure if anyone has noticed the same, or has any thoughts on this, but there are 12 bolts in the single plate clutch. 6 bolts for the flywheel, 6 bolts for the ring gear. The parts book shows all those bolts with lock washers. In my parts book, the single plate clutch is not broken out in detail and it reflects only the dual plate version. In any event, there were no lock washers on any of those bolts. I am thinking that because they were put on with MG's "special sauce" they did not bother to put lock washers on. I am going to order washers, but I am curious if others have noticed the same. Alternatively, it may have been built on a Monday, a Friday, or the day after Grappa Day....
  6. Yeh, does not stand the test of time. BTW your electronic cleaner trick works like a charm. Good find.
  7. Noted. Thanks for the info. No rust, just clutch dust and a little oil, probably from either the bottom of the breather hose/tube or the Welch plug (or whatever term preferred) for the cam. Clutch dust and oil makes for a pretty strong bond. I am going to paint the seam on the plug with 3 coats of Glyptal Red. Put some vw silicone sealant (they make a pretty good product $$$) on the breather tube gasket and look for a better clamp to the breather hose. Follow some of the other points in Docc's thread. I don't see the point in changing seals at 10K miles, even if it's getting up in years, they all look good. I put sealant on the 2 lower bolts on the crank flange. They were dry and had been factory-treated with some sort of sealant that was a mix between glue and bubblegum.
  8. It's the standard, Scura/Tenni clutch, some sort of bronze composite. I wrote 10K miles = 1/2 life. Which is in-line with what other Scura owners have reported-changing out clutch plate at around 20K miles. On mine, wear is primarily due to wear on friction material, the splines are showing a little wear, but nothing that I am worried about failing before the clutch material wears out.
  9. I had a stop watch on you Pete! Your views on Surflex are well understood. I have 10K miles on my single plate Surflex and it has 1/2 life left, and I like to rip with the best of them. That is not uncommon wear from what I have read others report. That's why we have Ford v. Ferrari; It makes the world go 'round. I have no financial interest in Surflex. I am not sure that all the swap-out proponents can say the same about the products they are standing behind....just sayin'
  10. Not sure? In case anyone is interested, I could be well into the minority on this one, Surflex is going to restart production of the original clutch plate for the single plate V11 clutch. Moto Guzzi part number GU 01081940. Contrary to what I had read else where, this is Surflex part number 83 M 1. Production is to begin week 29, 2025. The notched version of that plate, Surflex 83 M 4, will be produced in 2026, no specific date given. Price is 120 euro plus shipping and handling. They are currently taking orders. They returned my email on a Saturday so, I am almost positive it's a scam. If anyone is interested go to the Surflex website and send an email to their contact email address requesting information. English language is fine. If this needs to be moved elsewhere, please feel free.
  11. Thank you! I think I can add oil pan gasket to my list as well.
  12. Yup. After nearly 25 years, and multiple repairs, i know a lot of these guys. I used to use Joe Eish a lot, he was out in Ohio, a long time ago. I have seen people put some sort of sealant on the Welch plug. I think that was part of the problem. Any recommendations on what sort of sealant?
  13. BTW if anyone has original Scura/Tenni clutch pressure plate or clutch disc, in good shape, hanging around from their single plate swap, I am a buyer. Please contact me.
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