kecup

Figured out the RPM - I wired it straight from the green/ground wire on one of the induction coils and the RPM is correct now, seems like the yellow wire from the original RPM counter is sending too much signal on my type of bike. The blinkers are still a mystery. I've tried every possible combination of the connetions and no success, beginning to think that I must have fried the LED somewhere in the process. Overall the instrument looks and performs beautiful. k.

Will it fit on 1997 1100i sport?

Pity is I do not know what the appropriate resistor should be. Will give it some time on weekend. kecup

Thank for help, I think similar about this. The sender looks like mechanical switch on paper but very similar to thermistor-type that MG Cycle sells (although not listed for 1997 Sport only for up to 1996 and Corsa, that is before and after my Sporti's year:) If this is thermistore kind that can not stuck, the chance is that the current is sends when tank is full is not enough to light the 2W original bulb but plenty to light up a led that needs much less juice. I do not know much about electricity but I guess I can tune the circuit with a small potentiometer to find a position where the current is just not enough to light the led when the tank is full. If the sensor is mechanical I'll just keep tapping. Will drain the tank and give it a check over the weekend I hope. I will photograph the bike after I have all that Moto Special instrument installed proper - hopefully next week.

Hi, I feel bad for annoying this forum with stupid technical questions but can not help it. My tank was removed for painting for some two weeks and after putting everything back together the fuel light just stays on regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank. How does that thing work and how do I fix it? Can the sender stuck (from being dry for 2 weeks) and will just tapping on it fix it? Or should I get a new sender? I should add the bike is 1997 1100i Sport and I have replaced the fuel idiot light with orange led attached directly to the wires that once powered the bulb. k.

I have finally hooked the instrument today and it is up and running- very nice. I only have two problems, 1st: can not figure out the blinkers (did not have time to check this much since it was almost dark when I finished - seems the wires to the blinker idiot light are power - the instrument leds need ground wires from switches I guess) 2nd - the RPMs are too high - idle around 2800rpm (~1200 real) - it seems it reads twice as much as it should. I am shooting an email to Moto Spezial but maybe you know how to fix this. Thanks again for help. k.

Thanks, I will do that, plan to take take care of the powdercoating myself (know a good company here), to make sure the glass is washed away properly. kecup

Hello, As I am trying to restore my 1997 1100i Sport to its original glory, I'd like to powder coat engine and transmittion. I am thus looking for someone who would be willing to take the engine and gearbox apart for the powder coating job (meaning stripping of every part that can suffer from powder coating and its associated procedures - sand blasting and so). I had a quote for work from an unnamed local dealer for $1300 which was very reasonable (actually seemed a bit low) but I am a little reluctant now after I had them do another job and their discounted 40$/hr. promised rate turned into 70$/hr. rate final. Anyone interested? I am in Los Angeles, CA. kecup

Hi, I got to install the tacho finally, still need to clear some things: 1. The RPM wire, which one is it? There are three wires going to the original RPM counter, which one is it that I connect to the Tacho? Or should I wire it different - straight from the ignition coils or spark plug wires? 2. The "lima grau wire" - that goes from the alternator - is this any wire that goes from to the original instruments? Or should I wire it straight from the alternator? Is this the wire that powers the tacho? If this is the case should I attach a fuse to it? 3. The wire from ignition switch - is this the wire that powers the tacho? 4. What should I do with all the unused wires that go to the original instruments? Just isolate them and let them be? Thanks a lot for help!

Hello, I am fully aware of how rare/unusual is this WTB, but why not to try it. I search for complete, running Daytona/Centauro FI engine as a performance upgrade to my 1997 Sport 1100i (black 2004+ V11 engine would do as well). Prefer less then 10Kmiles on it with perfect paint. I am in Los Angeles, CA but can accomodate anything, including Europe. Thanks Kecup

I think the programming is correct since I'd tell them before what the bike is. Now all my questions are resolved. Thanks for help. Pavel

Thanks for help, I have three questions actually. One - when hooking the instrument, what one should be careful about? Given their spartan one page instructions it seems that one can not screw many things, but I do not think that's the case. Second - I understand there can be a switch hooked to this to use the manu instead of using an external magnet to do it, am I correct? If yes what kind of switch have you used for yours? Last one - the "programierleitung violett" connector, the programming wire - what exactly is this for? Thanks again for help. kecup

Thanks, that clear up things a bit:) Kecup

Hi Guys, I am just trying to install Moto Spezial's Speedo/Tacho (see the link below) on my 97 1100i Sporti and would appreciate some input on the connectors - maybe some of you went through this before. I am particularly puzzled by (pardon my German transcription) "Lima grau" connector and "Programmierleitung violett" connector. Any help is appreciated! kecup http://www.moto-spezial.de/deutsch/detail....%20%207615-9000

My long-gone 04 Lemans developed a similar problem, diagnosed as bad throw-away bearing. Not expensive except for pulling the clutch apart. Hope you are better than that. Kecup

here you go, checked the front tyre SEVERAL times for all it is branded to it: always found just this - VLK1606. 16th week of 2006? That would count the tire out, no?

My apologies, I meant "hit the left steering stop". It's my Czenglish. Speaking 4 languages but none learnt proper unfortunately. Many times I doubt that about my native.

As far as I remember I had a front wheel lock followed by nice squeel and mark on the road with both of my monsters, yamaha xt660x motard and frj1300 and the guzzi. In all but the guzzi I was able to control the bike and actually have some fun from it (monsters). All other bikes had up and wide handlebars, only guzzi has narrow bars, so the leverage is much smaller. I agree that when wheel locks some bikes can have a tendency to go for a fork lock. That leading to the question why the wheel locked so easily on guzzi. I swear the braking I did was just light in both accidents.

Sorry to bring you guys to the original matter- but if what you say is correct (I agree) that my problem is not one calliper binding as suggested by someone earlier. I remember now last year back home I hit a tram track with my XT660X yamaha (a supermotard want-to-be, not for sale in us, one single huge brembo disc in front) under heavy breaking resulting in a wheel lock and some 3 meter slide (measured post-partum). I had no problem with the bike, absolutely not effect on steering. What the hell is my problem with guzzi then? The second accident happened in perfectly calm situation, no heavy breaking at all.

I understand, the second accident happened at very controlled situation under not so hard braking. That is what puzzles me most. Pavel

Indeed. Unfortunately I am bouncing back home for CH so the guzzi issues has to wait to be solved. A winter there, might be a pair of skis I will try to master for the rest of the year, instead of the front end braking. A hole in my leg from the last accident seems to get better too:)

LA, CA and Brno, CZ, depending on the part of the year:)

Sorry to argue with you but my S4R Monster came up from the assembly line with the rear brake virtually useless. 30mph is still quite a speed, if I use rear only I am going to eat the bumper of the car in front of me at the first lights. I guess I would not have started this discussion if I'd thought it was something stupid.

I tried to mention this at the beginning. I ride sport bikes for more than a decade, daily, sometimes 100miles a day. I guess I'd have learned learned how to brake by now, but who knows:)

Bridgestone Battlax, definitely not a DOT code branded in it, there is VLK code and number, according to this the tyre would be just 4 years. The bike's gonna go through a restoration anyway, I will see to all the things possible.