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Josh

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Posts posted by Josh

  1. Sounds like the springs would be comparable for a fellow of your weight with a V11. Comparable numbers for the Marzocchi on the V11 are 5 wt oil with 100mm air gap. I know your shock s White Power; what are the forks?

     

    You must give us a ride report!

    Marzocchi.

  2. I've only ever bottomed once, it was a pretty severe pothole. I do have aftermarket .95kg springs installed.

    I did the seal replacement today and went with the 10 weight oil and 170mm air gap.

    Thanks for all of the responses :bier:

  3. I have a 96 Sport 1100 with Marz 41.7 mm forks. I'm going to replace my leaking fork seals this weekend and I'm having a hard time deciding what weight fork oil to use and what air gap would work best.

    The Guzzi manual says 10wt with air gap of 170mm. Hagon and Wilbers says 5wt with an air gap of 140mm. I contacted Marzocchi and they don't seem to have a clue! I know the heavier weight oil will increase damping and the smaller air gap can have an affect on sag. Will the smaller air gap also increase damping? Would the lighter oil with less air gap be more likely to bottom out? :huh: Any suggestions would be appreciated. :thumbsup:

  4. We might ought to leave the whole nut thing out of it . . .I think I have a picture of you looking for yours on some Alabama highway . . . B)

     

    Different type of nuts all together. I've got new nuts, thanks to the worlds largest ACE hardware store! :luigi:

  5. If it had a 200 tire, 150 hp, clip ons, fairing and chain drive then it would be, something else! :D If my aunt had nuts, she would be my uncle. Does every motorcycle have to be a repli racer? This bike has class, I like it.

  6. I purchased a set of springs from Rich at Sonic Springs (405) 604-7331. He knows what he's doing. Good product, good price, good service, lifetime warranty. I will order from him again.

    He probably doesn't feel the need to dress up like a clown to sell his products like one of the more popular spring (suspension) companies. But what do I know, it works for McDonald's.

  7. I agree that the conversion is not cheap, and of course you can forget meeting todays emissions standards .

    But the ride is in my case smoother , I mean more specific the on of reaction if You change the throttle position in a curve (what we are not suppose to do of course) .

     

    The main reason that I did the conversion was asthetics , fits better to the Rossopuro spoken wheels .

    The other reasen was that I could not make the Moto special instrument work , the one with the integrated ignition and ecu , so I kept the instrument using only the ignition and put the carburators.

     

    Got any pics of your Centauro? :pic:

  8. What is shear strength? :huh2:

    Mike, I'd be a little careful here with this statement. This is where I've seen many get into trouble.

     

    I took a look at the Unbrako site. For safety's sake, at the risk of repeating some of the stuff previously mentioned, I believe it's well worth emphasizing that WRT brake applications such as calipers and rotors, as mentioned above, the important strength parameter for fasteners is yield (shear) strength. Tensile strength of such bolts as these is not important. Typical engine bolts, on the other hand, have exactly the opposite requirements of brake fasteners. In the case of cylinder head bolts, for example, it's tensile, and NOT yield (shear) strength that's important. Many applications elsewhere on motorcycles have spec reqirements for combinations of both yield and tensile strength.

     

    When swapping out fasteners, it's all too common, though occasionally very dangerous, as in the case of brake components, to go down-rate on original fastener spec's, and there's NO downside to up-rate. But it's important to have an awareness of what KIND of strength is required in every critical application.

     

    A4-80 Stainless, as described on the Unbrako site, has a tensile strength rating identical to Metric Class 8.8 carbon steel (880 N/mm^2). However, it's yield (shear) strength is 6K PSI below Metric Class 8.8 carbon steel.

     

    Depending on grade, IMHO it's risky to make a statement that stainless is "probably much tougher" than carbon steel. Again, Metric Class 12.9 grade alloy steel has nearly double the yield (shear) strength of A4-80 Stainless, and more than half again greater tensile strength.

     

    Many's the rider who discovered the hard way that his blinged-out stainless steel festooned parade float was actually held together in the wrong places with shiny new stainless steel "pre-broken" fasteners! :homer:

     

    From the Unbrako "Fastener Facts" PDF:

     

    The user of metric socket screws must be wary of the strength level of the fasteners he or

    she is buying. Purchasing by the simple description metric socket head cap screw can

    result in one of many strength levels being received. This can result in installation

    problems or undesirable product performance. Metric alloy steel socket head cap screws

    manufactured in accordance with international standards can be different strengths and

    materials.

  9. This is not a ball head. Looks like it has a good fit and certainly fresh sharp edges. I had attempted the heat but probably didn't keep it on long enough or hot enough.

     

    So, going back in, you think Red Loctite again or blue is OK?

     

    I used blue.

  10. disc removal

    I had heard the brake discs are put on well. And with good reason; you wouldn't want them falling off. Seems like there is probably red Loctite involved.

     

    With fresh rotors in hand I tried to loosen the old discs. Even got a fresh SK 5mm drive with good sharp edges. Which only sliced into the fastener that much easier. Added some (propane) heat. Put the wheel back on before I screwed it up entirely. :bbblll:

     

    Now what? :(

     

    Hey Docc,

     

    I've used SK hex socket bits at work before and all had the ball end. If your bits do, avoid these like the plague. I would consider them ultra light duty. DO NOT USE THEM TO REMOVE STUBBORN FASTENERS. The ball will break off in the bolt head and then your really screwed! The ball is next to impossible to remove from bolt head . I've also had the hex shank shatter on these things(SK). They have cost me a lot of time and my boss a lot of money. I'll never use them again.

     

    Similar to whats already been said...disc removal

     

    Good luck!

  11. I copied this from the MGNOC.com

     

    Aug 3 to Aug 5 Moto Guzzis in the Blueridge

    Blueridge Campground, Cruso, North Carolina. Awards for Guzzi riders, no registration fee. Ten minutes north of Blueridge Parkway on Highway 276. Chalets, on site restaurant, domesticated trout swim up to your campsite. Call to reserve chalets. 828-235-8350 See ya there.

     

    Anybody going?

     

    I've been thinking about going, not so much for the rally, but for the fine riding in the area. I just have to convince wifey I should go! :notworthy:

  12. I can say the 1091-29 spring on my Ohlins pegged my sag just about right for my 185 ponds in gear (29mm laden). Maybe a little too stiff for some.

     

    So, Josh, you're respringing the Spot1100? Seems like that early White Power stuff is mighty good, but we've never talked sag numbers . . .

     

    Nope! It just seemed like a good deal and thought I'd let others know.

     

    By the way, how are the new brakes and suspension working for you?

     

    Hey, lets go for a ride sometime.

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