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Josh

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Posts posted by Josh

  1. Guys , this is the second time in the last few weeks that someone has had an arc to there computer when attaching cables to the battery! This is why you should ALWAYS remove the negative battery cable first and when reattaching your cables, attach your positive cable first. This procedure will prevent you from shorting your positive terminal to ground.

  2. Hey MOJO,

    I paid about the same for mine with less than 5K miles and much cleaner.

    Looks like it has the Staintune exhaust system, aftermarket sump and aftermarket throttle assembly.

    Also probably has leaking fork seals do to the fact that someone has rigged up some foam wrapped with wire ties. You could do better for the money. :2c: These bikes are under appreciated, usually do to the poor state of tune from the factory. These bikes require some fine tuning but ounce you get them dialed in they are much fun!

  3. Loctite used to make a wicking anerobic sealant for weld and casting porosity. It was used a lot by new car dealers for filing casting flaws in auto trans castings. They probably still make it. It will flow into a crack by capillary action, expand and harden. A little heat seems to help.

     

    The welding offer still stands. It is a far more positive, permanent repair than glues or fillers.

     

    Thanks for the offer Gary. :bier: I've got a few things I'm going to try, if they don't pan out I'll contact you.

  4. My bike has a intermittent back fire through the carb between idle and 1800 rpm, the problem is not noticeable at higher rpm's. I've been chasing this gremlin for a while and think I may have found the reason. Here is a photo of the right side intake manifold on my carbed Sport 1100. I circled the hairline crack with a pencil. The second picture is the outside of the manifold. I drew two arrows to indicate the point where the rubber boot clamps on to the manifold, thus covering the crack. :( So what do you guys think, could this be causing my problem? Does anybody have any recommendations for repairing a hairline crack in aluminum.

    100_1042__Small_.jpg

    100_1057__Small_.jpg

  5. My bike has a intermittent back fire through the carb between idle and 1800 rpm, the problem is not noticeable at higher rpm's. I've been chasing this gremlin for a while and think I may have found the reason. Here is a photo of the right side intake manifold on my carbed Sport 1100. I circled the hairline crack with a pencil. The second picture is the outside of the manifold. I drew two arrows to indicate the point where the rubber boot clamps on to the manifold, thus covering the crack. :( So what do you guys think, could this be causing my problem? Does anybody have any recommendations for repairing a hairline crack in aluminum.

  6. Indexing plugs is another part of the total "blueprinting" package. Takes very little time or effort, won't hurt, they'll be positioned precisely everytime...but your not going to gain horsepower or cut your times in the 1/4 mile! "Might" help throttle response minutely though...better off running Iridium plugs if your going to play with spark plugs looking for a noticable throttle response and idle improvement. :2c:

     

    I've read that iridium and platinum are poor conductors compared to copper or silver.The only advantages of these plugs is there life expectancy, as they don't wear as quickley as regular plugs. I'm not really worried about my spark plugs lasting 100,000 miles.

  7. Nah, I don't think so. What year is your bike? If it has a lambda sensor in only one pipe that might be an explanation, otherwise it's more likely to be TB ballance or simply a result of the firing intervals. The Guzzi, and most other, 90* Vtwins with a shared crankpin have firing intervals of 270*/450 degrees. That's what gives them the loping exhaust note, but it also means there is a *lazy* cylinder. Back in the late '80's early '90's there were even some models built for the Kaliforni-a market that had diffeenetially sized pilot jets to try and keep the emissions down when running on the slide. ell it seemed to work 'cos they got through. Sounds well shonky to me :bbblll: Most carburetted twins will run one plug significantly darker than the other, (the left from memory :blush: ) due to the 'Lazy' nature of the cylinder.

     

    Pete

     

    I've noticed the darker plug also. This is why I asked the question about plug indexing!

    Some time back I purchased a colortune (a spark plug with a window so you can see the color of burn in the combustion chamber) and noticed that the left cylinder actually runs a little richer than the left. The carbs have been balanced with a twin max, air filter pods cleaned and valves also have just been adjusted. The firing interval must be why I'm seeing the difference, thanks for the explanation Pete.

    By the way this colortune spark plug is a cool little tool, I really like it.

  8. Josh, I posted a query on this a couple o' years ago. I had remembered way back in the heyday of hemi-head pushrod motors :lol: , when an old racer's trick was to index plugs. I'd been getting a consistent soot shadow on one side o' my plugs. Pete Roper replied with a comment to the effect that having a good expunging of the anal pore prior to riding would have more benefit. I reckon he's right. ;)

     

    Gotcha! :moon:

  9. well, how much money do you have? dual plugs isn't needed. gains are unknown :huh2:

     

    I'm not talking about dual plugging. Indexing is when you install auxiliary washers of varying thickness under the spark plug's shoulder so that when the spark plug is tightened, the gap will point in the desired direction(I'm just not sure what direction this would be). I think a set of indexing washers would cost less than $10.

  10. Do to the configuration of the 2 valve head on our "beloved" machines, would there be any benefits of indexing our spark plugs(mine aren't the same). Anybody have any suggestions or theories on this subject? I'm sure the advantages aren't much but it surely can't hurt!

  11. I vote for the V7 Sport also! I know a guy that's got a V7 just sitting around in his garage with a nice patina to it, I wouldn't change a thing. I'm trying my best to obtain this awesome machine.

  12. Josh

     

    Not sure this will be helpful but if its a squeak just when you pull in the clutch lever (and/or let it out) its probably just the unlubbed splines squeeking a little, mine did it for ages before I was worried/bored enough to whip out the engine and lube them (not too much or the grease finds its way onto the clutch plates).

     

    Its now squeak free but my worries were probably a little unfounded as there was no wear evident when I took it apart after 20,000 miles. :huh2:

    Mal :helmet: .

    It only squeaks when the lever is pulled in, you are probably are right its probably dry splines. It seems to work fine just makes a dry squeaking noise.

  13. I know there have been a million posts on guzzi clutch noise, and I would describe the noise as a chatter.

    My bike has suddenly developed a squeak along with the chatter at about 11,000 miles. It's been doing this for a couple hundred miles now and doesn't seem to affect anything. Anybody got any ideas as to what it may be or is it something that I should be concerned about?

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