Mike Stewart
-
Posts
1,157 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by Mike Stewart
-
-
Beautiful bike Roy, when stranded you have to pay what it takes to get home.
Mike
You paid $190.00 (Canadian?) for just the battery?
No, you were sodomized !
FWIW...The BMW dealer wanted $180.00 (US) for a battery for my K100. I got one from a battery vendor for $85.....
Yes, but my Italian girlfriend said
"Buy me a new battery and I'll show you a good time"
What else could I do?
-
I have tried many pads and am the most happy with the HH compound from many brake manufactures. This is the cheapest solution!
Mike
-
If you haven't already, you should also add to your bike a Powercommander because replacing the stock exhaust cans with a more free flow cans will most likely cause more loss of low end power. Just a thought.
Mike
Thanks chaps, I will start with throttle body sync and TPS check - probably go to a dealer as I am not sure I have the expertise or tools for the job. The bike currently has standard exhaust and silencers but I have a Mistral crossover and carbon silencers to fit in the spring - wahoo can't wait. Hopefully will get some more miles on the bike in 2012.
Happy New Year
Andrew
-
I think you need to start with the valve adjustment as fotoguzzi states and then syncronize the throttle bodies and adjust the TPS. I used to adjust my tps to 450mv, but it seems the norm now is 550mv from what I picked up on the Guzzitech site. The vibration you feel might be the throttle bodies out of sync. which could cause the cough and also vibrations at lower engine rpm. An engine miss will also cause this issue, but do the sync. first to see if the problem goes away.
I have also experenced the cough at 3 to 3500 rpm, usually only when the bike has been ridden in hot temps. Hmm, all of my bikes seem to have this issue and I just replaced the tps on one of the bikes and so far it seems to of cured it. Time to order 2 more tps for my other bikes.
Mike
I would start by doing a valve adjustment.. also do you have a stock crossover? some of the low rpm shake might go away if you get a Mistral, it worked for me and I'd do that before a power commander.
-
You will need a DB9, 9 pin cable, female end on one side and male on the other. I would download the manual from the Powercommander site so you will know what you need. The non-usb models in the U.S. do not have the 9 volt battery option, I have only seen this on the usb models. I have used about 8 of these the last few years on the many bikes I have owned so I have been around the block with them.
Oh, and the Powercommander IS NOT Apple friendly!
Mike
Thanks!
So after some more talking with the owner and more research I found it to be a PC3 NON-USB and fit the 2000 v11. So I'm missing the software (which I can d/l from the PC site), 9 pin data cable and the 9V batt adapter. I assume any serial cable will work? So without the 9 Volt adapter I can still program using my laptop plugged into the bike correct? Hopefully I think I have it all sorted and maybe a good deal as well..
-
Yes, the PCIII uses the usb port, and I think there were 2 older models that use the 9 pin cable. The differences are that I can remember is the older models maps use 500 rpm incraments of fuel change for the mapping and the usb version is more refined with useing a 250 rpm. I couldn't notice any difference between the two. The usb version also has a function that inriches the fuel mixture like a carburator (accelerator pump). I never needed to use this function, but some have with dealing with ping issues.
Also, the maps are hard to use between the different models, while some were able to change the file type and then download it, I was never able to figure it out, I usually just manually plugged in the numbers by printing up the map on paper I wanted and placing in the numbers on the Powercommander chart.
Is it worth $100, I'm not really sure. Best bet is to ask for the numbers on the Powercommander and do a search for what it fits? Also, does it come with the download cable? The software can be still downloaded from the Powercommander site.
Hope this helps,
Mike
Ran across a PC for sale but the guy doens't know anything about it. I asked him which model it is but he doesn't know. I can't find much info about the older versions of the PC and I have a faint idea it is one of the older PC without the USB slot. Can maps be loaded to these? What are the major differences between the two? This one is just the unit, no cables, CD, paperwork, ect. I also assume I can d/l the software from the PC site? Although he does guarantee working operation is it worth a purchase? Asking price is $100.00
-
I did spend a few hours degreeing my cam when I had my engine apart for new Mike Rich pistons and repainted the 2002 dreaded peeling paint on the engine cases.
First, I had the cam specs. from the workshop manual, BUT it was very vague on what the checking clearance was
So, I went with 1mm. and while the opening and closing was off by a few degrees, they were centered. Meaning, I felt the cam was centered which could make up for the error of using the 1mm. spec. Now, having the V11 Sport engine apart, to adjust for timing error would be hard. The cam and crank key ways are some what narrow, so having an offset keyway made is possible but I can't see correcting anymore than perhaps 1 or two degrees.
On that note, bigger valve lash to me does not advance the valve timing as the opening and closing of the valves are BOTH effected (still being neutral). Meaning, the duration is decreased but the timing is in fact the same as in opening and closing on a whole.
I could be missing something, but then again, I just had a wonderful Gin Martini!
Merry Christmas,
Mike
I do not have the specs on this late model cam shaft,and I don't want to take my new toy apart and put a degree wheel on it and check cam timing yet.
But closing up the lash does advance the cam timing by a small amount,depending on how steep the ramps are,it will also effect TDC overlap,and I don't know how sensitive these EFI computors are on these bike. This bike came with the accesory mufflers and a different ecu,I guess to recalibrate for the exhaust.
If anyone on this forum has taken the time to check cam timing on a V11
Sport and would like to post it I would sure appreciate it. Steve
-
Basicly you are decreasing the valve overlap (the time when both valves are open) and duration which is why the bike will idle stronger and at a lower rpm. It would be cool if someone had a dyno to see if there is any horsepower lost at top end with running looser valve clearence. By the seat of my pants, I have never felt any difference in performance, but it Does make a huge difference on idle quality and stalling when coming to a stop.
Mike
-
If the hub looks ok (no wear on the splines) , there is no need to remove it. Yes, one less tool needed!
Mike
MG Cycle finally restocked alignment tool so ordered that and flywheel locking tool
Would it be necessary to remove the hub in this operation if it's undamaged ? Assuming I don't need the hub nut tool,...
Thanks
Michael
PS I'll loan them out if any others need to do this down the road .Hopefully start after the holidays and if there's no delays caused by problems or part that I may need that I don't know about yet ,I should be done by late January.Figure it may be a start and stop job as I'm working in a small unheated shed.
-
Yep, EOS = Engine Oil Supplement.
I'm a GM tech of 30 something years and we used the EOS with every engine build, coated the cams and lifters and also used it as assemble lube on the bearings. This stuff is pretty thick, kinda like the old STP oil treatment.
Mike
EOS ; Engine Oil Supplement ?
-
I purchased my headgaskets from Mike Rich, hopefully they were the .045 thickness because I didn't know there were two different thicknesses
He did say use factory (Guzzi) base gaskets because they were made better and didn't split over time, so I too went with Moto Internationl on the other parts I needed for the bike. They get the parts out fast and carry alot for a Guzzi Dealership! 
Also, how do they figure out the headgasket thickness sizing, is it the new gasket thickness or the calculated gasket thickness when installed
Mike
In a phone conversation with Mike Rich, he advised that head gaskets are available with nominal thickness of .060" and .045" and he recommends the .045" version to take advantage of the higher compression allowable with the new pistons. I just received ones from Moto International with part number TL300220600000 that measure about .062" thick, marked with the number 1.5, which I suspect means 1.5 mm thick.
Does anyone have a source and part number for the .045" gasket?
Thanks - Troy
-
The fuel injection system will hold pressure in the fuel lines after the bike is turned off. This injection system does not inject fuel when the ignition key is turned on, only when the engine is cranked. What it seems like is happening is when you key up the bike, the fuel pump builds pressure in the fuel system (normal operation) but then your injectors are leaking down through the nozzle tips. Are both sides doing this or just one side? The way to really check it is to pull either the throttle body loose so you can see the injector tip or perhaps pull the injector with the hoses and conector still hooked up, then turn the ign. key to the on position so the fuel pump builds pressure and watch the injector tip. If fuel dribbles from the tip, your injector needs help. I'm not sure there is enough room to do this on the bike as I have not had any problems with my bikes leaking fuel but it is worth a try.
Hmm, I wonder if any injector cleaner added to the fuel would help?
Mike
The drop of fuel collects after riding when the motor is shut off. It's not always me firing the bike up and then shutting it down right away (it does it then too). It seems like the fuel line pressure is draining through the injectors after the bike is switched off. Which made me wonder if I had a problem.
-
Chuck, they might be easy to get but they do have their own problems. Hmm, like the angle drive blowing apart or how about the needles fading or how about they also quit working at any time?
I have had both sets of gauges over the years and the ITI have been better for me 
But, it is just my opion
Mike
Veglia parts are easy to get.
-
You should be able to have the 3 good lifters refinished, that is only IF they have no pitting. Also, the lifters are NOT refinished flat, they have a very slight convex to them on their face. The way to check for worn lifters is to apply a light coat of engine oil to their face and put two lifters together. While holding one up, the lifters should not stick together, if they do, they are worn and should be replaced or refinished.
Mike
-
Or, use a very small drill bit and drill the head off of the small screw, then slide the knob off. Hopefully you can grip it with a GOOD pair of vice grips to remove the remainder of the screw. Then measure it, buy two and send me one
Mike
-
Oliver,
There have been a few failures on other Guzzi's just like what you have. The cause could be in the hardening process that Guzzi uses or from lack of zink in the oil. It is very hard to find out just how much zink is added to the oil as many manufactures don't really list it. The zink level has been reduced in many oils the last few years so that the engine oil would not damage the cat converters on cars/motorcycles. The zink is what is needed for the high rub area's like the cam lifters and cam lobes, heck, even the rocker arm tips at the valves. Many say to use a true racing oil (for off road use) while others say to add an additive (ZDDP) with your favorite oil.
Maybe touch base with Moto Internationl as they are a great dealership and may know more about this problem.
Mike
And while doing all of the above, I would pull the oil pump out to inspect it as it gets unfiltered oil and could be worn/damaged from metal going through it.
What type of oil were you using in your bike?
Mike
Mike,
I use Motul 5100 ester 15w50, I buy the oil from Moto International in Seattle, and have changed oil and filter every 3k miles. I wonder if the abnormal wear on 1 tappet only could come from a deffective valve spring; if the effort on the tappet is more important than the others, it will wear faster.
Olivier
-
So Chuckie, Did you get Rosie's knob off? And by chance did you notice what size screw it was (diameter and thread pitch), right or left hand threads? As my bike is missing the screw and the knob I made was a press fit onto the shaft which still could use a screw for added retainment.
Thanks,
Mike
-
And while doing all of the above, I would pull the oil pump out to inspect it as it gets unfiltered oil and could be worn/damaged from metal going through it.
What type of oil were you using in your bike?
Mike
-
Good questions, I would talk to Todd at Guzzi Tech, I think he has put the V11 Sport wheels on his Jackal. He may even know which Cali hubs to use, I think I remember him looking for the tubeless tire type hubs on his list a few years back. So he would be the man to talk to. Let us know what you find out
Mike
I have been through all the threads and have checked the parts diagrams and can only find snippets. Can California hubs be paired to Morad aluminum rims without any major hang-ups for use on an early V11 sport? i.e. spacers, axles, brake discs, cush drive mating surfaces? Which model Cali is preferable if there is any difference? Alpinas are out of my range, Mondellocycles complete packages look nice but dont offer a 4.5" rim and are still 2k, buying the separate components seems like a good way to go maybe...Has anyone actually done this? Any help that can be offered would appreciated!
-
The small screw if I remember correctly is a normal right hand screw (righty tighty).
As for the internal fuel line, I never had a problem with it and I don't remember anyone else having any issues with it. But then again, I haven't been on any Guzzi sites for a few years.
Mike
Thanks for that, Mike.
It looks like there is a very small Phillips way down there after cleaning all the detritus out of it. I'll probably get one chance at it. Is *this* screw LH or RH? I'll squirt some AeroKroil down in there and wait until tomorrow.Now.
About the internal fuel line. Problem or no on the LeMans?
-
CHUCK
, Rosie with the red cheeks needs her odometer knob removed by taking out the small screw that is way deep in the knob. Once the screw is removed, the knob will pull off. This uses the ITI gauges that are different than the white faced ones. The stock cheap plastic one was broken on my 03 Rosso when it was new so I had to make one on my lathe back in 2003. Mike
the Rosso Corsa..
Her Speedometer is showing 12xxx miles, and is a replacement, according to the original owners (RIP)son. I was going to do a preemptive strike, burn a couple of holes in the case, and grease it. However, the trip reset knob won't unscrew. Am I screwed? Just wait until it fails and replace it with a VDO or something?
I've searched here, and can't find a thread on whether the V11S internal fuel pump hose pops off like the Cal Vin, etc. Is it not a problem?
TIA.
Hi Chuck,
Your know that trip odometer unscrews clockwise?
Bob
Right. It won't unscrew. I'm guessing that the DPO put some lock tite, JB weld, or something like that on it. He tended to bodge things..
So. Does the hose clamp and fuel line on the fuel pump need to be addressed like on the other internal fuel pump bikes like the Cal Vin, Norge, etc?
-
Yes, I always use premium fuel in my bikes, I even have a PCIII and have added alot of fuel at the problem spot of 3500 rpm without any luck of making it better.
Mike
As for the pinging, are you running premium fuel ?
-
ScuRoo,
Once you see the pistons, you will wonder why you will have to hide them inside the engine where no one will see them, they are a work of art!
From the deep valve pockets, low dome height, oil forced lube holes from the oil ring to wrist pins,the pistons are very high tech. After checking for piston to valve clearence, I must say, Mike Rich did his homework as my clearence was at the close end of the scale (I have larger valves in this engine).
Take your time when installing the pistons, follow the directions on checking the ring gaps and where to position the ring end gaps on installation. The only real pain was getting those tight fitting piston pin retainers in. The piston pin clearence to retainer is very tight which is a good thing for a running engine, but care must be taken to make sure the piston pin clip/retainer doesn't fly across the shop to be lost. I stuffed rags down under the piston so the clips would not fall into the crankcase
Once the clips are in, MAKE sure the piston pin still can be rotated by putting your finger into it. If it doesnt rotate, then the retainers aren't seated in all the way. The end of the wrist pin has a slight chamfer on it to push the retainer outwards into the piston. On one of my pistons, I had to take a socket that fit against the piston pin to give it a loving tap to seat the piston pin retainers. Yes, the piston pin spun freely afterwards.So, my main problem with needing th MR pistons was mainly for the bad ping I was getting on hot, dry days. I had the FBF pistons which had a unfavorable squish area, could I have made these pistons work? Yes but it would be alot of machine work and with machine work, there is no turning back if something didn't work. So, the MR pistons were the cheapest way to go for me.
Performance wise, it is hard for me to tell, mainly because I had the bike apart for soooo long, I can't really do any seat dyno testing here. The engine does rev smoother but some of this was because the FBF piston weight was way lighter than the stock pistons (about 100 grams lighter). I wont be able to see if the ping issue is gone till this summer when the dry heat comes.
My other problem is that I am still healing from the dreaded broken shoulder so this bike is very uncomfortable for me at this time. Just 20 miles on the tight Oakland Hills roads were killing me
So hopefully I will get somemore riding time in to give you more feedback. Mike
"After a 2 plus year wait for the Mike Rich pistons"... ARE THEY WORTH IT?
Still breaking them in I know but even at this stage, do you have any thoughts on 'em? Have you noticed any change?
ScuRoo's just gotta know...
-
Finally after a 2 plus year wait for the Mike Rich pistons, the Ghezzi Brian is road worthy once again. That is after a new battery, reinsuring, getting new tags for the license plate etc. I just did a 20 mile loop to check her out, and she obey's my commands, hard throttle to force the piston rings to expand to seat into the cylinders walls equals the beautiful sound of the engine's exhaust that brings the hairs on the back of my neck to stand up straight
Mike
03 Cafe Sport misfire
in Technical Topics
Posted
Hello, When in doubt, replace the tps sensor! My 03 Rosso has a cough just when the tempertures get into the 90's at 3000 rpm, my 02 EV ran very bad above idle when the engine warmed up, replaced the tps and she runs excellent. I used the Harley Davidson tps, much cheaper that the Guzzi and is the same manufacture. They are different part numbers, but I doubt if you can feel the difference between the two when riding.
Just a thought,
Mike