Mike Stewart
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Posts posted by Mike Stewart
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[i believe Andre comes on this site from time to time. This bike is what pushed me to make a cafe racer out of my Jackal (work still in progress).
Mike
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OK,
Just to make things more simple.......You don't have to go through the pain of disconnecting the throttle linkages and backing out the idle stop screw to make the base 150mv reading on the TPS sensor. This was what we did before everyone went with (or figured out) the 500mv (.5 volt) setting with the throttle closed at idle (fast idle lever fully off). In the real world (on cars) it does not matter if you adjust the tps with just the key on or running. Motorcycles seem to be somewhat more funky with the charging system and electrics in general, so warm at idle seems to be the key.
And, you should check the tps voltage after you sync your throttle bodies and adjust your idle!
Just trying to make things more clear for everyone.
Mike
Ok, thanks everyone....what I'm hearing is I should try and insert something into the connection at the tps, into the white violet and violet wires, and get the readings there. 150mv with fully closed butterflies, key on, bike not running. Right?What is more important, 150mv key on, bike off or 485mv, bike at stable idle?
Thanks again,
John
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Hello,
Just measure your tps voltage before you mess with it and write down the reading, at least you can go back to where it was if you run into any problems. Most bikes run well with a tps voltage of .5 volts. Not sure if your Fluke goes down low enough. I believe Doc has the right tps wire colors and my 03 Rosso is in the pics. It is not too hard to adjust, you just need some patients. Ohh yeah, make sure your fast idle lever is all the way off when you check the reading!
Mike
Hi all, I've read much of the TPS thread and still have a question as well as a comment from a Guzzi mechanic.My questions are these, 1)where and how do you pick up the millivolt readings? 2)Is there a picture anywhere? 3) I have a fluke meter with only one voltage setting, will that be accurate enough?
Secondly, the mechanic states that under no conditions should I attempt to adjust the TPS on an '04 V11, he claims that it is very very difficult to bring it back to factory specs if I mess it up.
Thanks guys (and ladies!)
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The stock UFI oil filter is not that long, it will also increase the oil capacity of the sump
I have used the deep V sump for years on my V11 Sport, never a problem. I was told by someone at the San Diego Rally a few years back that a Harley chrome oil filter cover would fit the UFI filter. Since I am not into chrome, I never looked into it, but if there was a carbon fiber one????????
Mike
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Any way you can dump some rustoleum into the frame?
Humm, I do think you have a good idea
I think using POR15 fuel tank sealer may work in the frame. An acid wash will neutralize the rust and the paint coating will bond and seal the inside of the frame. If it is gas proof, hopefully it will be moisture proof as well 
Mike
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The 2000 Jackal uses the frame members for their oil breather like the V11 Sport. My problem is while I had the frame off the bike I noticed that alot of rust was inside the frame and coming out the breather fittings in the frame ( and I mean alot!). Humm, I know the Guzzi's show signs of moisture in the engine and one has to now wonder what that moisture does when it is trapped inside the frame. Question is, do I still use the rusted frame as the collector of the oil (and worry about rust going into the oil) or do I bypass the frame and use the old style collector used on the older bikes or just put a K&N breather filter on the end of the hose?
Oh yeah, the Jackal frame is going lower frame rail less and a V11 engine is being transplanted.
Mike
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My thoughts of using a DVM when dealing with bulbs, throw them out! Use a test light which draws current. I have been fooled way too many times when using a DVM when measuring voltage. A poor ground or a single strand of wire will show you battery voltage with a DVM but will not light a bulb. Learned this way back in ??? on my 63 Chevy pick um up.... Yep, poor ground
Humm, same technology as the Guzzi Mike
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I had both, the Falco and the Rosso Corsa at the same time.... The Falco was an excellent bike, did just about everything perfect (well, except for the battery being too small for the bike and having to reset the gauges after the bike failed to crank over), Anyway long story short, I was faster on the Falco, it was lighter, perhaps more nimble but it was always the one left in the garage. There is just something about the Guzzi PERIOD Ahh, the 90 degree V Twin, the way the V was suppost to be!
Mike
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Ditto,
I have talked to Bill Ross at length and the key to going fast is being slippery. It is hard to get hp from a Guzzi, being aero is the best way to regain the LSR. I donated my Jackal swing arm to the cause, and I will be donating more parts and or $$$$$
Mike
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The Land Speed record stuff is all new to me, so I would be little help of knowing the classes for the bikes.
I knew the Cook Goose team held the LSR for the last few years for the air cooled pushrod V twin class and did not know that their record had be taken. Bill Ross had emailed me with his attempt to put Guzzi back in the #1 spot.
The class he is in will be: 1000cc Modified Partial Streamlined Pushrod Gas class. The record for that class is held by a highly modified Harley powered Buell XB9 and now stands at 169.2 mph.
With alot of work to do, he is aiming to run the bike in the later part of the year. Should be an exciting ride!
Mike
Mike,
Could you give us a re-cap of what happened between the time (several years back) that the Cooked Goose team took the record and now? Who did what, and what were the speeds recorded and what are the classes...
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Jihem,
I think the reason why it is so hard to get more power out of the GB is the exhaust. The crossover placement to me is too far forward. I think having the crossover placed farther back will yield more hp from the engine. This is like the difference between the Mistral and Stucchi crossover trend on the V11S.
This is the exhaust that Dyno Tec suggest on the GB
Mike
maybe, alltho at 'normal' speed on B roads, riding the bike was fine.
no, it's all the work that went into it and to no real gain: the RS cam, the PC III, the flowed heads, the BMC pods...All that for very little real amelioration.
well. i still have a very decent bike, sure. but I was expecting more and better from all the mods.
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Great Brian, I knew it fit, just hard to visualize in my head since the bike was parted out over 1.5 years ago:P
Mike
Got it, Mike! I just wondered which "twist" was needed. I ended up routing the hose to the remote between the spine and the airbox, tight to the spine. Should be good!
Thanks!
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Hello Guzzist,
Bill Ross in Sunny San Diego California is building up a Moto Guzzi land speed bike. His hopes is to take back the Land Speed Record from the Buell/Harley crowd. His job is going to be a tough one, the 1000cc pushrod V Twin record is a very high 169.2 mph.
He is working hard with his team collecting parts and cash donations to get the bike (Mandello Meteor) up and running for the 2007 season.
Here is an article that was sent to MGNOC:
Hi Frank,
I wanted to share with you and the other Moto Guzzi club members ,that there will be a Moto Guzzi powered attempt at a world land speed record in 2007. Team Subtle Crowbar is building a land speed racer based upon a 1987 Lemans SE . Our goal is to compete with it at the Bonneville Salt Flats in September of 2007. The bike, named the ` Mandello Meteor `will run in the 1000cc Modified Partial Streamlined Pushrod Gas class. The record for that class is held by a highly modified Harley powered Buell XB9 and now stands at 169.2 mph.
This will be a challenging endeavor, especially at the high elevation of Bonneville. We plan to meet this challenge with extensive top end work and a lot of attention to aerodynamics with the special support of Kent Riches at Airtech Streamlining.
The team at this time consists of myself, Bill Ross, Canadian Fred Ghyselincks, Texan Tony Statz, and Eric Hjeltness, Mark Seibert, and Steve Perry also from San Diego County. Steve is a fellow firefighter and put our website together. There are now four firefighters on this team.
We have had had the help of many friends with the donations of parts and cash and would like to thank the following people: John Althaus, Mark Etheridge, Tony Statz, Mike and Janice Stewart, BJ Swartz, Tom Short, Eric Hjeltness, Peter McGrath, David Wilson, Scott Brown, David Knetzer, and Steve Perry for the web space and design.
The following businesses have been very supportive and provided partial sponsorships with either donations or reduced prices for parts and services : Phil Wyatt, Airtech Streamlining, Mike Rich Motorsports,
MDR Dynamics, MPH Cycles, MG Cycle, Web Cam,
Carrillo Racing Rods, Euro MotoElectrics and Moto Guzzi Classics
If any individuals or businesses would like to get involved we can really use more help. At this point, the bike is completely apart, many parts have been ordered or are in the modification stages and there are many more parts needed. Anyone interested can contact me or visit our website for more specific information at:
www.teamsubtlecrowbar.pitpilot.com
The website will be periodically updated with status, photos, results, and changes in needs, sponsors etc. We hope to soon offer team t-shirts to help raise funds for the Mandello Meteor. No funds will be used for travel, lodging, food or drinks, only for the bike and parts.
Any folks that would be interested in coming to Bonneville are warmly encouraged to attend and enjoy the comraderie with us. We plan to pit with Tom Liberatore of The Pepperoni Brothers who will be racing their V7 Sport and currently are the only Guzzi to hold a Bonneville record I believe. It would be nice to see some Guzzisti there, maybe even coax Sidney Conn and friends to make the trek west ?
At this time there are several scheduled Bonneville events for the Fall of 2007:
Speed Week: August 11-17
Bub Motorcycles Only: September 2-6
World Finals: October 3-6
USFRA World of Speed: ` to be announced `
At this point we have not decided which events we will attend, but probably the Bub event in September and maybe the USFRA or World Finals depending on the many factors: jobs, family, school, team members,
personal finances etc etc…..
Again, we really appreciate the support we have been given , and any that may be forthwithcoming. You all are invited to attend, and if anyone has questions, suggestions, ideas, parts etc , please feel free to contact us.
Ciao !
Bill Ross
Team Subtle Crowbar
1143 Thomas Way
Escondido, Ca. 92027
Ph. 760-489-7794
Email: teamsubtlecrowbar@pitpilot.com
Website: www.teamsubtlecrowbar.pitpilot.com
Please visit his web site to see what parts he still needs,
Thanks,
Mike Stewart
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Ok, I will show the way....
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...amp;#entry70668
The Ducati Monster foot pegs will work, the ones used were off a 2000 Monster.
Mike
still trying to verify that Ducati & Aprilia pegs fit!
Just another note, the rubber Ducati foot pegs can be changed to the all aluminum foot peg by cutting off the rubber.
Mike
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Ahh,
Ok after looking at the pictures again, you have turn the remote 180 degrees so the mounting bracket that is in your left hand faces toward the rear. The twist has to be in the hose (like rolling up a garden hose). There will be some resistance in the hose (steel braided). The direction of rotation (right or left) depends on where the hose needs to be routed (for the air box?). So try it in one direction and if it isn't right, go the other. The difference between the Sachs shock mounting and the Penske is that the Sach's remote hose lays down in a straight line, where as the Penske hose must be twisted into place. Once you get the remote bolts started, you will be alright.
Hope this helps,
Mike
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Brian,
The way I installed the Penske rear shock was remove the seat, side covers and air box to gain access to the shock mounting bolts. The fit was alittle tight but not impossible (mainly tight with the air box). When I removed the shock from my bike, I unbolted it just the way it was shipped, so it should fit.
Can you take another picture farther away from the bike?
Mike
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Beautiful pictures Mark! Love the picture of the Beemer loaded up with wood
I have a craving for a tour very soon,
Mike
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David,
I went through my stack of Guzzi stuff and found the Sach's rear shock length. It measured in at 276mm (center to center). This was for a 2000 V11 Sport, the 02 and later bikes might have a longer Sach shock.
The Penske I had was adjustable in length. I played with different lengths and I found that the 2000 V11 Sport felt the best to me with the shock length at the 276mm length. The bike felt more twitchy at lengths above this. Now the 02 and newer bikes with the longer wheelbase, a 10mm longer shock does wonders to the handling department.
Mike
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Slowpoke,
Don't know what caused your issue, but I rode my bike just 15 miles from home to work for the years I had owned it (4 years) Never had a problem. I too had moisture (mayonaise) on the inside of my valve covers at any month of the year (I live in Northern California). The difference of having an oil pressure relief valve stick compared to an oil filter working loose is, you will most likely still have a few pounds of oil pressure with the relief valve stuck open verses no oil pressure if the filter comes loose. You were lucky on that you were not pushing the bike when the light came on.
If the oil cooler thermostat stuck open, it would mean that the oil would be cooled even more in the winter tempertures, but it would not cause an oil pressure loss.
Mike
I can't believe nobody accessed my prognosis of what happened to my bike. To reiterate: My problem was that I was not driving the bike long enough to burn out the condensation which had slightly corroded the plunger on the pressure relief valve. It took me awhile to figure this out but luckily I had plenty of fresh Amsoil 20/50 in the crankcase so even though I drove over 11 miles with the oil pressure light on there was no damage. A matter of fact when I took off the oil pan I got a flashlight and looked up in the engine and it was clean as a whistle. There was also no sign of damage to the upper end. My first reaction when the light came on was that the oil pressure sender had failed. So, I promptly replaced that. That was not the problem. I contacted Mike Haven via email and he suggested that the screw and key on the oil pump might have fallen out so that the oil pump was not rotating. (Incidentally, you definitely need the flywheel tool to stop the engine from rotating if you want to take the oil pump off). That was not the problem. So, I decided to check the only two items that were left: the oil pressure relief valve and the oil thermostat valve. Lo and behold, when I took off the valve(s) the one that has the small plunger had corroded because of the moisture in the crankcase. My memory is getting fuzzy because it has been a while since I had done this which valve it was. You'll know which one when you take it apart. Also, because of the buildup of moisture it had created a gelatinous substance clogging some of the oil passageways. So, when I used to drive the bike 350-400 miles a week I had no problem. But, when I started driving just 11 miles one way it was not enough to burn out the condensation because these bikes run cool. Al, this might be your problem yet then again it might not.
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Having been a tech for GM over the last 29 years and seeing alot of weird things. I suspect the oil filter was not tight enough from the get go. I tend to overtighten oil filters and I have never, never been accused of leaving one loose. Many things can account for the filter coming loose after 3000 miles. Humm, heat could of hardened the oil filter seal alowing the filter to loose it's torque, or even the engines vibrations could of led to the oil filter dancing loose. I still use the factory filter and I have never had this happen on any of my bikes. Maybe it is because I change my oil at the 3000 mile mark
Just my thoughts,
Mike
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I still prefer the Ohlins rear shock over the Penske. The Ohlins is just so much more plush (compliant) to start with. To me the Penske is set up more for a track, where as the Ohlins will work well on both, street and track. Yes, I have done them both.......Just trying to save you $$$$$$$$$$$ The Ohlins is 10mm longer than the Sach unit. I have the length figures around hear somewhere
Mike
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I think what you have is pretty much normal
In in Northern California, you will get some milk shake like coatings inside the valve covers. In wet or high humidity climates, I would think there would be even more condensation like what you have experenced. So I would call it normal.
When I parted out my 2000 V11 Sport, I was amazed how much water came out of the frame from the breather system they use. Maybe they need a water seperator on the return hose to the engine oil sump
Mike
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You do excellent work
Humm, where is my soldering iron?
Mike
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Newbie TPS Questions
in Technical Topics
Posted
I have done the long draw out base tps adjustment on my 2000 V11 Sport, with the Raceco valve lash specs the idle speed needed to be turned down. Thus changing the tps voltage which was a low 270mv. I was using a Powercommander and all of the maps I had tried did not work well with this bike. I finally came up with a map that worked well and then after going to Todd Eagans Powercommander seminar at a Guzzi rally, I realized that the maps I was getting were based on the 500mv tps setting. The real moral to the story is, if your bike runs good, don't mess with it. My 03 Rosso runs great with a tps voltage of 466mv. and I would not change it.
I agree that a warm engine is not needed, I was only suggesting that so the fast idle lever would be fully off.
Mike