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Guzzi2Go

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Posts posted by Guzzi2Go

  1. They had a huge debate over ALTERING the air temp sensor reading to be INACCURATE, thus fooling the ECU into adding more fuel and hopefully making the engine run better.

    We had a huge debate over making the engine temp sensor MORE ACCURATE by adding a resistor, heat sink, or an air gap to somehow improve accuracy.

    While both threads are equally amusing, they are diametrically opposed.

    I'm just sayin'.

    Are you sure about that? Improving accuracy? :huh:

     

    Both threads are about fuping a temp sensor (air vs. oil). The only difference is that they, riders of perfect, shiny, Teutonian machines had to resort to a "professional" solution with associated cost of some $300, as opposed to us, riders of Italian piece of

    ...er...

    machinery, resorted to $5 heatsinks, 50 cents resistors, 10 cents worth of termo goo...

     

    Don't know at what rate yak fat goes these days, but I am sure that air gaps come at no extra charge. :whistle:

  2. Ours was better. It featured philistines, bohemians and sincerely not interested. We had mathemathics for eight year olds and yet to be invented physics. Thermal goo, yak fat, thermal inertia, lag time, blovial quotients, heat sinks, air flow, air gap, ultra-light sensors, resistors, thermistors, potentiometers (linear and others), relevant and irrelevant lines, baits, measurements of all sorts. There were no problems to be solved and excellent solutions for them. Hell, it even included the (incorrect) answer to the ultimate question of life, the universe, and everything.

     

    BMW tech discussions! Pah! Amateurs! :bbblll:

  3. I have no problem with disagreements, or that some members consistently find others posters contributions inane, overly verbous or simply wrong. I do find comments like the one I've highlighted as completely counter productive and uncalled for. I am more than capable of turning the mood ugly in a conversation, and that's a great phrase in which to do so. G2G, I only point this out because it didn't strike me as being in charactor with the usual tone of your posts I've read in the past. Just my :2c: .

    Well, I must admit, I gave it a second thought before posting. However it seemed well in line with the general tone this thread has taken. If you look closer, it does not really stick out. ;)

  4. Well, some are saying progressive springs of various rates are not available "over there" (Of course Slavomir got some in the Czech Repbulic, must be some sort of vari rate black market or something)

     

    And claim that they are crap.

     

    So for those who are asking the question, I'd think links to actual suspension professionals are indeed useful.

     

     

    Posts like the one quoted here are not of much use though.

     

    I guess those who can read really have advantage over those who cannot. :rolleyes:

     

    Dan, I am well aware of various spring calculators available on the net, but I don't intend to roll my own springs, I'd simply like to order some. And if you go to web pages of Wilbers, WP, etc. you will find a set of springs for Moto Guzzi V11 without any additional information. The reason for that is that simply putting the springs of your choice without having a piece of paper saying these are approved and allowed to be used on a specific motorcycle type is considered illegal in Germany. This is probably the reason why manufacturers do not offer the information. I contacted Wilbers and WP, but got no info.

     

    So if you can offer a link to a web shop, preferrably this side of the pond that offers the relevant information about the spring kit (like compression rate, length, diameter, etc.), feel free to post it. Otherwise, just STFU. :oldgit:

  5. Hmm, the spacers go on top, no? They can be changed without removing the forks from the triple trees.

     

    I had made the mistake of increasing the fork preload too much on my stock Marzocchis to where there was little rebound travel left. The answer was "correct springs" instead.

    CopyofIMG_0410.jpg

    Stock spacers in black behind the LaPhroaig Single Malt and Silkolene fork oil (don't they make a nice couple?)

    I see Silkolene, urine sample and some green stuff in glass tube. Is that the single malt?

     

    + as luhbo says, in Germany (DDÜA) you can't buy springs per characteristics, but per motorcycle type (otherwise you lose your "licence to kill"). No way to find out what are you actually buying and may well be they are just the same as the OEM installed ones. However, I see you buy springs from same manufacturers elsewhere. Where do you get spring characteristics info from?

  6. Just another note....

     

    If the speed sensor is too close to the pickup the speed indicator may at certain point stop working (drop to zero). Happened to me @110km/h when picking up from the brake disc, @140km/h after putting magnets on the brake screws.

     

    The cure is to move the sensor AWAY from the pickup. Don't try as close as possible. Go AS FAR as possible.

     

    Now it is tested and it definitely works @~210km/h ,or better as fast as the Guzzi can make it. :P

  7. Wouldn't it seem somewhat ODD to you that ALL mfgr's of steering dampers, and ALL motorcycle mfgr's that fit them and lawfully sell them worldwide, including in every state in the USA -- as in 100% (as always) -- have ALL legally sold and fitted dampers with ergonomically friendly adjustment knobs located conspicuously within easy "no look" reach of the left hand (as opposed to being mounted out of reach underneath, under fairings and/or headlight buckets, or on the throttle side, for example)?? :huh2:

    Have you ever actually looked at your Guzzi? Where do you find your steering damper?

     

    Mine is under the fairing/headlight bucket. Mille GT I owned had it throttle side.

     

    Does that mean Guzzi sells them "unlawfully"?

  8. Thanks Pete!

     

    Well that didn't work!

     

    from memoory the outer washer is about 3mm thick

    Would that be the LH one, which goes between the nut and swingarm?

     

    Are the driveshaft trunnions aligned?

    Yes

     

    Is the needle roller in the RH end of the bevelbox clean and greased and rust free?

     

    Pete

    Yes

  9. I had a left side rear wheel bearing break after just ~5000km and I am wondering if the wheel was installed correctly after the bearing was replaced. I had the bearing removed and spacer between bearings measured, but it turned out to be ok.

     

    The question is where the two washers/shims belong. I can't make it out neither from the explosion drawing, nor from the manual. Is it that:

    - thin shim goes between swingarm and bevel drive (RH side)

    - thick washer goes under the nut (between the nut and swingarm on the LH side)

     

    If that is wrong, what would be the right order?

  10. I'm fairly new to Guzzis so am still trying to find my way around,i have this weird sound that seems to be coming from the rear of the bike at low speeds,coming to intersections,parking lots,and so forth.

    Can't seem to nail it down,it's not constant but very noticeable when it appears,does'nt seem to efect the running of the bike at highway speeds.

     

    I replaced the two rear wheel bearings last year on a ride,was warned about there frail'ty and it came to pass not two months after i purchased the bike.

    So what i want to know is could this sound i'm hearing have anything to do with the cush drive,it looks like there's another bearing in there is this correct?

    If the sound is of a "clonky" type, and can be "felt" through the footrests, then it is most likely wheel bearing again. I had mine changed ~5tkm ago and things were quiet for a while. Now I am getting the clonk again. Will take the wheel down later this week to have a look.

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