moto pierre

I bought a Fenda Extenda for my Suzuki SV-650 and before installing it I set it against the Guzzi carbon fender on my V11 (one piece, not stock fender, so it may be a different shape). The plastic extenda seemed to have about the right profile, but the trailing edge of the Guzzi fender didn't match the curve of the extenda very well. Some trimming of the plastic would be necessary, but I intend to buy another one for the Goose unless a better match appears. They come with sheet metal screws and contact adhesive tape, but I ditched the screws in favor of stainless 3 mm button heads, washers and nyloc nuts. 16mm length srews I think. Look a lot better and won't scratch the tire

Here's how I've done it for years with many different bikes: Screw two hefty eyebolts into the ceiling joists of your shop about 30 inches apart, or hang a loop of chain over them. Lift bike on to paddock stand or center stand Attach bike to eyebolts/chains with tiedowns for extra security. I always cross them, right side eyebolt to left side of bike etc Jack bike up as needed for front or rear end work. Tie downs give peace of mind. I once lifted my heavy Yamaha XV-920 clear off the floor using two eyebolts, a chain, and a come-along For my V-11 sport I built a stand from 1.5 inch thick oak (recycled pallet lumber) with notches that match the lugs on the bottom of the pork chop. Raise paddock stand by placing some pieces of 2x6 under the wheels of the stand before lifting bike Insert home made oak stand then remove paddock stand to unload swing arm. Now I have installed the TLM centerstand... Lots easier Moto Pierre

MY TACH PROBLEM After buying a 2000 V11 Sport as salvage, the first time I ran it the tach worked, but after much work including removing and replacing the front end, it no longer functioned. So I sent it of to Palo Alto Speedo and they reported that it was working fine. So I grounded the black center spade connector to the engine. Still no needle movement. I checked continuity from the ECU plug all the way to the instrument (black/yellow wire) and it was fine. When the engine is running I get voltage at both this wire and the red/black wire to ground. So how come nothing happens? I'm stumped. Yesterday I connected the ground wire to the mounting stud too, but I don't think it will help. I've heard that connecting the hot wire from one of the coils to the tach will also make it work. Has anyone done that? Getting to the connector on the coils is hell, and one of the three rubber coil mounts is already broken, so I'm reluctant to try removing either one for access to the connector. And which is the hot side anyway? Any ideas.... Moto Pierre

WANT damaged carbon fiber fronT fender. I want to build a fender extension to keep crap off the motor as shown on the Tech forume. Does anyone have a damaged carbon fender they would be willing to sell?

Carl is right about the Yamaha lights. I have a 650 Seca and an XV-920, both with that lovely great headlight. It looks cool, it's all metal, and both electrical systems can easily handle 100/60 aftermarket bulbs. I don't have enough time on my 2000 V11 Sport to assess its headlight, but it will have to go some to beat the Yams. I routinely replace the stock bulbs on my bikes with the aforementioned flamethrowers, but now I'm nervous about doing so with the Sport, especially after seeing those incredibly skinny wires.

I'll be taking the wheel off tonight and moving the washer to the outside. Perhaps that will also reduce the gap between the pieplate and housing which is a bit more than the 1 mm you mentioned. Thanks!!! Moto Pierre

That piques my curiosity. I have a 2000 and had the swingarm off for painting (why is it black anyway?) When I pulled the rear wheel I found a large washer, and I am pretty sure it was inside, between the inner side of the small needle bearing in the housing that allows it to swivel on the axle and the spacer between the bevel housing and the wheel spline. Now that seemed like a weird place for a large diameter thin washer, but I put it back the same way. Perhaps that washer was actually meant to be on the outside between the bevel housing and the swing arm to help exclude water. This bike had been bodged badly before I got it, so I don't really trust anything I find. Should that thin washer be on the outside? It is not plated and would certainly rust out there. I found no dirt or water damage despite 23K miles. Also, how much gap should I see between the bevel housing and the wheel?

Here's another question to add to this battery thread: I just got a new Odyssey 545 MJ, but it's not clear whether it goes with the terminals forward or facing to the rear. The hot leads are long enough for both, but the ground leads are a stretch when the battery faces forward. However, the forward facing location means that the top of the battery is slightly elevated which seems preferable. Also, the terminals are much more accessible. BTW, In the coursee of my work, I have been to the Odyssey battery plant in Warrensburg, Missouri several times. They are VERY picky about quality control. I think ther product is about the best out there. Thanks for the input, MotoPierre