Jump to content

al_roethlisberger

Members
  • Posts

    4,482
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    21

Everything posted by al_roethlisberger

  1. ....my 2002 came with the "large/tall" and "small/short" Siemens relays mixed&matched from the factory as well. I was told by many that the "large/tall" units were the new and improved Siemens and that it seemed like they were reliable replacements. I still swapped them out to the Bosch, and in regard to relays, it's been trouble-free so far. I keep the original "large/tall/new-model" relays in my tool bag for spares. al
  2. I think the rods that Mike sells are some special honey-comb structure that is extremely stiff, moreso than the stock Al units which he says can flex under load, and he says the Al rods often have scoring in many cases showing how they have, and the ends tend to mushroom over time esp if you have an aggressive cam. His Ti rods also have ChroMo ends so they don't gall. At least I think that's what I remember him telling me. It's been a while though. al
  3. Yep, my shop said it would be another $150 or so, and no big deal. So I plan to do it at the same time as well. al
  4. ...don't quote me, but I think it's either $75 per pair, or maybe it was $175 for the set of 4... something like that with a "75" in the figure They might be neat to have, but I doubt they make much difference. I think these might be a diminishing returns kind of mod, but fun never-the-less, if you can't find another way to spend $200 I may look into it when the engine is apart for the engine paint rebuild this Winter.. We'll see... al
  5. Hrmmm, I dunno if they quiet the "ticking"... as honestly I don't really notice it that much. However, the Ti rods may?? Mike says that the advantage is that they are a bit more stiff than the OEM Al units, and certainly lighter than the ChroMo alternative. His rods have steel caps/guides that keep them from galling. He says the main advantage is to tighten up timing/valve-duration. I've thought about them later on when the engine is really loosened up. al
  6. Thanks ...and yes, it is simply "lashed" to the rear vertical leg of the triangular front engine mount. No problemo al
  7. ...excellent, let us know how it goes. If all goes well with other household projects, I plan to ship mine off in the coming weeks. And don't forget to post pics! al
  8. ....ahhhh, you mean "exhaust wr .... ROT"? Check out the recent discussion on exhaust coatings here: Exhaust Coatings Thread Everything I've read says that exhaust wrap is about the worst thing you can do as it destroys the headers in short order. al
  9. Excellent, so from your photos is does appear that the dimensions stock fender will indeed fit. The Ohlins for the MG that we have has the back eyelet above the caliper already, so that's not going to be a problem. However, I the front will be, and I'm glad to see that you were able to make a bracket from the two front mounted fasteners to the single eyelet further up the front and perpendicular to the fork. This makes life much easier and less expensive al
  10. ...dunno , all I've got are "hose clamps" on my bike, and that's what they came with from the factory.... on mine anyway. I plan to head down to the BMW dealership and get better fuel-injection hose clamps, but I've never had any trouble with the standard hose clamps. I think the issue with those really arises if you overtighten them, or take them off and on multiple times and they bite into and through the fuel-hose. Glad to hear you found the problem though. That's the most frustrating part usually... al
  11. FYI, a discussion on the Wildguzzi Forum: "Foul by Ferracci" Thread on Wildguzzi BTW, Victor, do you have a photo of the FBF x-over? I don't think the one for the V11 Sport/LeMans is on the website. thx! al
  12. ....sure a photo of your work to make the regular fender fit would be great BTW, good work Paul, just let us know what you find out. So BTW, will we need different bearings, or anything else, once we fit the correct axle to a 2002 wheel with the smaller pre-2003 axle? al
  13. Jaap/Paul, Good news on your forks, I'm still waiting for Polen to get back to me on shipping/payment, etc.... Although we have exchanged several emails late last month, I think that since the month of August is one long European holiday for some people, I might not hear back from him a for a couple more weeks.... but then again, he warned me that might be the case, so I'm not casting any aspersions his way BTW, does the length of the forks seem to be correct to fit your LeMans without any adjustment/modifications Jaap? It should, but since you have yours in-hand, I just thought I'd ask. So when you guys figure out the correct axle, bearings, and anything else that needs to make the 2002 wheel fit the Ohlins, please let us know so we can just go out and order the right parts the first time ...now we'll just have to make a bracket to make the standard V11 fender fit the Ohlins. Looking at the photos above, I think one could do so with some aluminum stock, or similar.... I hate to have to go spend $$ on a Scura/Rosso fender for no other reason than fastener placement. Plus as you know, I'm no fan of CF cosmetically... no offense to those who do though al P.S. Polen has 1 or 2 more pair of the Scura/Rosso Ohlins forks, or will soon. If you are interested, you can contact him at polen02@libero.it
  14. Yep, I just routed it down under the bike with the other various vent hoses...
  15. Heya Zeb, well......... just scroll "UP" And iif you go to page "2" in this thread, there are about 4 more shots of my pod installation al
  16. ...as always, good work Rich I'll have to find some good upholstery cement for a couple felt pads I've applied to the frame under the seat, etc... as the sticky backing doesn't last long and begins to peel off the bike in just a few weeks. Any recommendations for a good cement that's water resistant, and won't eat the surrounding paint off, etc? al
  17. ...I installed the pods, see photos above I don't know which is really better, but the pods allowed me to ditch the airbox and free up a lot of room under the tank for better airflow and easy modification and maintenance. I suspect both the pods and airbox have their advantages, probably the difference between which I'll never notice on the street, only on a dyno. So again I decided to change to the pods for the reasons above, and the fact that I think they look(even partially hidden) and sound great al
  18. That would be Dave in Seattle: Dave's LeMans with Centauro Pegs al
  19. ...I'm honestly beginning to wonder as well. While I can't vouch for my results, because they are of the utmost unscientific methodologies(different time, different parts, etc).... I have had dramatically different results with different dealers. I've gotten much faster and quality results out of someone like TLM all the way in the Netherlands, over my dealer 30 miles away in a number of cases But again, different parts, different times... maybe I should perform a batch of "identical" orders/tests to see just what the deal is, and then we can "rank" dealers accordingly on responsiveness al
  20. ....ewwwww, you are gonna be in sooooo much trouble when Jaap sees the size of that photo you just posted al
  21. Well, I'll be interested to hear how these Brisk plugs work out. I actually had never heard of them before this thread.... al
  22. ...sounds good to me. I've mixed and matched oils in all my bikes and cars, "as needed"(they've all been high mileage and leaked/burned oil ) ...and they've all held up fine. I'm sure some oils are better than others, but I'm still of the opinion that as long as one get's quality oil, and the changes are regular, the results will be similar.... barring some specialized application. My only concern in regard to our bikes, I had heard that some folks had found that the synthetics tended to seep around the seals/gaskets more readily than the dino oils??? Anyone have experience with this? al
  23. ...I think that was an excellent explanation, and I'm glad to hear yet another opinion that the ECU should be just as safe with the dual-plug outfit as the OEM single Now, as soon as I get that special turned 10mm socket from Mike Rich(on it's way) and can take some time away from painting the closets and kids' room.... I can hook all this up, including my new PCIIIusb I'll update the voluminous "dual plug" thread with news of success or failure once I have a chance to report. al
  24. ..sounds like MG needs to take both alternative parts, the metal "elbow" and the plastic gear-drive, and mung them into one solution. The only problem I had heard with the gear-drive version, is that the pressure and torque from the angle-drive would push the plastic casing apart sometimes. So, if they'd just make a durable metal gear/angle-drive, we'd be set Fortunately, my plastic angle-drive hasn't pushed itself apart yet(knocking on wood). *sigh*
  25. ...man o man Rich, when I see threads like this.... and another one of your replies.... if I didn't like you so much I'd think you were an " '00-01 Sport elitist" and rubbing our noses in it Just playing with ya In all seriousness, this timing cover issue is really a minor thing if the dealers just knew to prep/check it accordingly. It's very easy to fix. Other than one or two examples, I've not heard of anyone else having this issue after it's been fixed. Now, on a similar note, I do have a weird oil leak that I actually can't find right now. I've got a fine bit of oil spray on my right red side-plate(hambone), just little drops and smears after a ride. It's not even black oil, just "wet" looking where the fine drops landed. I've also had my oil light come on twice under hard acceleration(which we've discussed before) where I've never had this occurr before. So I have lost some oil. But the rest of the engine seems dry/clean, except a tiny bit of seepage around the cylinder base where the black paint seems "darker"(time to retorque those heads ). At first I thought these drops were blowback out of the K&N oil from my earlier intake "coughs", but they're mostly gone now, so I dunno. Based on a tiny bit of wetness around the valve-cover/head, and the fact that this seemed to show up after Mike and I did the valve adjust... I might just need some new valve-cover gaskets, or a reseat of the covers. It's not rocket science, but other than that possibility, I dunno ...at least it's minor. I'll find it eventually, but just kind of a bugging thing. al
×
×
  • Create New...