gthyni
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Posts posted by gthyni
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I have 13,000 miles on it. Don't know how many k that is.
13k miles * 1.6 = 20800 km
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I have an Öhlins SD100 with 120mm stroke,
a SD110 with 90mm stroke should be optimal
but I got the SD100 cheap
It is a world of difference between the Bitubo and the Öhlins,
the Bitubo makes the steering heavy, the Öhlins unit does it's
job when it is needed without being noticeable when not needed.
Attaching a list of Öhlins universal SDs
I also have my original Bitubo lying around
give me an offer.
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How about these:
I ordered a couple of those (in red) to test if they work as rear/brake lights.
from Streetworks
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- On the race track straight
- on the drag strip
- when shifting during a wheelie
otherwise flick the clutch.
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or else we'll only see and hear about raised handlebars, lowered footpegs, hardcases, gel padded seats, etc.
Nothing of that will ever touch my bike
Garage season has begun, plans are layed,
pictures will be posted when I have something to show
but don't hold you breath
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I have the red Paddock stand which is very useful when working on
the engine since it is out-of-the-way.
A little trick:
Before I remove the front wheel on either of the bikes,
I secure it by hanging the front of the frame to a beam
in the ceiling of the garage. If it should fall it doesn't "fall down".
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Moved the answer to this thread:
Göran,Thanks. Hey, I've been meaning to ask. What is up with that fighter pilot helmet? Is it a standard agv feature to have the 'mask?' It even appears to be camouflaged in case you have to bail out in the jungle.
It's my old AGV Quasar racing
with Max Biaggi design
Of course Max is sponsored by Suomy today but that just make
my helmet cooler
The face mask came with the helmet. It is removable.
I use it when temperature drop below +20 Celsius
(which is not uncommon here in northern Sweden)
Last summer I normally used an open helmet which is
comfortable when running short distances or in town.
It has been so many accidents lately so I have given up
on comfort and always put on full protective gear.
Racing helmets are not comfortable, they should have a
very tight fit and I have to fiddle with my glasses every
time I take it on (and off). Contact lenses, next season.
BUT I should feel comfortable (= safe) in anything else
than racing gear.
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Maybe heating?
Without checking, I am with Jaap.
using a hot air gun on the outside of the hub
usally is a good way to the "loosen the grip"
on the bearing.
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Don't worry too much,
check the oil stick, if the "milk" is visable on that change the oil
otherwise just keep you service intervals.
I also live in a cold and sometimes rainy climate,
I always changes oil between riding seasons.
The oilsystem is not a closed system so it is normal the get some
moisture into the oil. If it is just a few drop it vaporize when the motor
gets warm and cause the phenomena you describe.
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Most experience porters are autodidacts or have learned
by working with people who knows this stuff,
there is no university of motor tuning.
There are many examples where traditional "flow porting"
has worked very well, but there are examples here
in Scandinavia both in road-racing and drag-racing
where Motoman's "velocity porting" have been used
with great results.
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Pierrot's bike with Tomaselli clip-ons:
Sorry Jaap, had to hack your Javascript
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I'm hearing "Ohlins."
You should be hearing Öhlins
but you don't have that key on your keyboard I guess.
It is pronance like the vocal in the particle "an",
says: "ön Öhlins fork", great party trick
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This guy has an alternative view
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MG recommends a few drops (2 cc) in the rear drive oil,
it reinforce the oil while heat and high pressure puts the oil
under heavy load.
A few drop in the gearbox won't hurt either since we have
dry-clutches, don't use it with wetclutch.
I would not put any such additive in the motor oil since
motor oil have to flow through channels without restiction
while transmission oil are almost stationary.
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A "traditional" clip-on is just a straight pipe clamped
to the fork tube. Our clip-ons are a bit higher so dropping
them an inch or 2 should not be a problem as long as you
feel safe and comfortable.
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I don't remember the side stand switching off the head light.
In fact I think I lost power to start the bike by accidently
leaving the head light on while taking a break.
Maybe there are diffences in wiring between diffent years or
between my euro-guzzi and your "american goose".
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Can we see some pics with the stand in the "up" position?
Do you have to sacrify some ground clearence?
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Usable power is the key...
using a less than optimal suspension setup
to get more power certainly reduce the usable power.
A local Harley rider has a tuned motor with 100+ hp wasn't
able to outrun me on the BSA with less then half of that,
cause his bike handles like sh*t
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The Magni fairing
has a classic look (197x Ducati SS) I really like.
It is quiet price, around 1000 euros.
Personally I ride fast enough w/o a fairing, so I'll keep the café style
to preserve sanity. A tank bag gives enough "wind breaking" on
longer tours.
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This is my procedure:
1. check sag, adjust if possible,
back end has adjustable preloading, the Marzocchi don't.
2. set all C and R very soft 1st or 2nd click, test ride and adjust
R until it stop rocking
3. adjust C until the front feels stable but not hard. We wan't to catch
bumps and such but just that, no excessive movement
4. set C very soft on the back, test ride again and and adjust as 3
until the bike feels balanced.
Usually I wind up with softer than stock since I ride on some
bumby roads, but too hard settings does worsen the handling much
more than too soft ones.
C = compression, R = rebound
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al:
I use an universal damper, partno SD 100
it has 120 mm stroke, but since the bitubo
only has 80 mm stroke it points out a bit (no biggie)
I think an univeral Öhlins with 90 mm stroke should
be the ultimate choice, partno SD 110
baldini:
no head shake, but friends of mine have had sudden
scary experiences on otherwise stable bike.
Better save then sorry, and since the unit from Öhlins
does not restrict me at all I feels like a good investment.
I put the 2003 Öhlins catalog
on my site for your pleasure
. Warning! Not suitable for sensible persons,this is hard core bike porn
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I add a reply to this old thread instead of starting a new,
Previously I have mentioned that I removed the stock Bitubo steering damper
and found the bike much "lighter" to handle with no loss of stability.
But there is always the danger of tank slap when running without one.
Late in this season I mounted a Öhlins damper on my V11
and I can only say it is great. With loose to medium setting
it is not noticeble, it is just like running without.
This is what we want added safety and no ill effects.
Pricey, yes. Luckily I found a 2nd hand damper at a resonable price.
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I probably go for something based on Supertrapp Megaphones
like this:
but the shaft drive make the arrangement a bit unsymmetric,
so I am just looking at alternatives. One idea is use 3" Supertrapp IDS2s,
which are very slim and should fit between the subframe and the rear wheel.
But it is 90% chance that I will go with the classic megaphone look,
at least this winter.
The riding season is probably over now here up north
the garage season begins as of now.
Power COmmander Quick Shifter
in Technical Topics
Posted
QUickshifter
new little thingie,
breaks the ignition for a moment when you upshift I suppose.