gthyni
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Posts posted by gthyni
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overhead cams
overhead cams will make it very hard indeed.
As you say, if I really must have a 4V:ed motor
I be better of buy a whole new motor or a whole
new bike.
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If the resistances is in serial that gives:
5 + 5 + 5 + 5 = 20 ohm
if cables and plugs are 5 ohms each.
if in parallell:
((5 + 5) * (5 + 5) ) / ((5 + 5) + (5 + 5)) = 100 / 20 = 5 ohms
a third option would be to have 2 colis in one box
in which case in would be no different from a single plug
system.
You don't get a weaker spark on the 2nd plug,
you get a equally weakened spark on both plugs.
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What does it take to do this?
What about
- piston clearence?
- pushrods?
- intake manifolds?
- exhaust ports?
inquiring mind at work
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The throttle bodies diameter is 52mm,
gives you som choices from the K&N list.
Personally I prefer the look of the conical filters
(K&N calls them "Tapered").
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Thought I would try to adjust my clip-ons last night
just to test for an optimal ride position and rear
mirror view.
A loosened the 2 bolts holding the clamp but the
clip-on would move. Suprise suprise - a 3rd bolt
from the bottom locked into position against the
steering head.
The bolt pointed to on the 2nd image:
I removed that bolt and the clipon was adjustble OK,
but this 3rd bolt has a fixed position against the steering
head, so if you want to adjusts the position of the clip-ons
you have to do without this bolt. Anyone tried that, I don't
want to experience and slipping clipon at 150 km/h
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... and the engine should be warm when draining.
I always change/clean the oilfilters on every oil change.
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OOOOoooo!
So If we have resistor wires, we don't need resistor plugs!!!!
Unless we got a radio on our V11s
(I sure do
)we don't need resistors at all
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Wow, lot of more exciting info.
I can't help myself
,I get so curious by this.
I really bought the MG to have a steady alternative to
my "experimental BSA". Now I'm on the the path of EFI
hacking
(I better sell the Beeza 
before makingthe Guzzi my main project).
I'll check out the harness tomorrow
I still got warranty on the bike so the best solutions is to
make all mods reversable, which is a complicating factor.
I also nice to be able to go back to the 1.5M when I screw up
and for A/B tests.
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I have personally not had this problem,
but I saw this solution
on RaceCo's site.
I think for us not-really-racing guys it should be sufficient to not drop the oil level
more then just below the max level on the dipstick.
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I read all the info on Cliff's My16M site
and got really excited about the project.
I have a few questions to start of a discussion:
- Clifff do you run the My16M for everyday use (in Closed Loop mode)?
- Where/how do mount the 02-sensor? In the crossover?
- Anyone else interested in testing it on a V11?
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1. Install manifold adapters and verify synchronisation (vac spec = 7mbar or ~0.5cm Hg). Re-install blanking plugs (or temporary ones if adjustment required - I used small pieces of tube with one end sealed)
Stupid Q:
What is these adaptor thingies,
and where can i get them or how do I make them myself?
On the Beeza I just have to measure the throttle appeture
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I'll see what I can do tonight. New camera with an inexperienced operator. Don't know how to manage file size.
Just use hi resolution
and then crop and scale using
Photoshop or
That way you can test sizes, cropping, colour depth and so on
if only the original picture has enough resolution.
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Paul,
your V12 is really wicked.
I'm not sure about the short mufflers though,
I would rather have a good old 2-into-1 system,
anyone seen such a thing on a V11.
This is going on my Beeza as soon as I got the time:
The muffler is a short Supertrapp,
something like that on the V11 would be nice.
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Thanks for the replies.
I am going to change the oil this weekend
and add the Molykote when I get it.
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There seem to be higher powers at work here...
.. or a bad connection, a bad soldering or dirt/humidity
which just "fixed" by yanking the cable.
"Glappkontakt" in swedish
Be aware that in that case the problems probably will appear again,
and at worst possible moment
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Luckily I haven't experienced more then minor glitches which I hope to correct
on 1st service, but the bike is not really broken in yet, just under 200 kms on
the meter.
If I had problems like this that seemed unsolvable the last options
would always be to rip the FI out and bolt on couple of Mikunis
,but that's the last option and may not be legal in some countries
due to emission regulations
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I NEED A DYNO SITE IN THE NORTHWEST FOR PC.
Have you tried:
http://www.powercommander.com/opccvelasco.shtml
My V11 too idles a bit crappy,
I will set the tappet clearance to Raceco specs
and make sure the trottels in sync. Since my bike is (yet!) unmodified I think this will
do the trick. When I got my planned pod filters and supertrapp megaphones on
I will probably need a PCIII or FIM dyno run.
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Guzzi recommends 2 cc of Molykote Type A in 35 cc transmission oil
for the final drive.
I read the in the forum that the final drive gets hot and that is probably
the reason behind the recommendation of the Molykote additive.
The problem is that it is not easy to come by
I have ordered a 12 cc bottle but I don't know when I
get it. I really feels it is high time to change the oil ASAP
since it has run 2000 km on original oil.
It is important to get any metal which is loose in there
from the break-in
, but at the same time: do I dare runningwith high quality trans oil (Castrol syntetic) only until I
get the Molykote?
Experience needed.
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this is a hard issue..
the cost of testing tires are quiet high.
I still has the stock BT57s on my V11, 2 years old but only 2000 km yet.
I not completely happy with the grip and handling even in dry conditions.
According to Bridgestone's website
BT57 is a "sport tire" while 020s is for touring, which makes me
even more concerned about the not too good grip.
I just changed tires on the Beeza from Metzeler "classics" to modern tires
(Avon AM20/21 Roadrunner), it like another bike. I have to go out this weekend
and do some hard run with the old-timer
Think I will try Pirelli Diablos next year on the V11 since I heard good things
about them. Only hope they match my V11 and my riding style.
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I have a BMW car it is very reliable (and fun too for being a car that is)
BMW motorcycle are reliable AND BORING
As for detail quality and reliability the germans are clearly
superior to the italians. Italians motorcycle (and car) makers
make suberb motors and chassis then they seems to loose
interest.
As a "weekend warrior"
I want a motorcycle to love not to rely on.
I love my V11 and it's quiet reliable too
,as for the old Beeza, it's unconditional love
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I guess the fuelpump is needed to give the FI
an even pressure in the fuel feed.
*But* an inquiring mind must know:
the fuel tank is still well above the injectors -
would it not be possible to get by without
any fuel pump at all?
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I order some things recently and used:
info@agostiniduilio.com
and
assistenza@agostiniduilio.com
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Google rules:
Shifter Spring Replacement
in Technical Topics
Posted
tip:
remove + cable from battery before fiddling with
electr(on)ics.