GuzziMoto

I feel your pain. My local dealer NEVER mentioned the trans recall for my wifes V11. I found out about it from this board. Then when I asked him if my wifes bike was in the recall range, he said he would look into it. When he finally got back to me he said "the parts would be in in a couple weeks". I'm thinking I wasn't sure I wanted to have you guys do the work. But I wasn't going to leave them hanging, so they did the work. The bike was back in the shop (a different shop) a month after they did the work to have an oil leak fixed......

There is a fuel pressure regulator that would prevent over-pressurization of the fuel system. But a TPS out of wack or throttle bodies out of sync or even a fuel pump that runs when it shouldn't and not when it should all could cause the symptoms you describe.

They have officially issued a recall and your dealer should be able to access info on it easily. I will see what I can dig up.

Ask away. It was not the first time someone has asked that. There are a number of things in the manual that either were not translated well or mis-printed. If in doubt, ask.

If you remember where the screw was set, put it back. No, this is not perfect but should suffice to make it run. It sounds like you have a seperate issue going on with something, probably the fuel pump, running with the key off. A sticking relay might be causing this. If you have not already done so you may want to replace the 5 relays under the seat with higher quality units. Adjusting the idle on these bikes is not as simple as it is on old carb equiped bikes. I believe there is a way to set the idle mixture but you may need special tools. I have a Power Commander and use that. You may want to sync the T.B's and set the TPS now.

First off, Pete it is great to hear from you again. It has been too long. Second, I think if you want to build ANY bike into something more then what it is then more power to you. But if you post what you want to do with out thinking it thru and ignore the realities of what you are doing, don't be surprised (much less angry) when someone with more knowledge then you post opinions that don't agree with your plans. Lastly, I don't think there is as much room for improvement in the new 8V motor as there was in the old motor. In order to get your 125-130 hp (if it can make it) you may have to give up a lot of streetability. You can probably make the most improvement with getting the fueling right, but that is hard to do until the PCV comes out. Other improvements are going to be harder to get, Most will either be small and/or come at the expense of streetability. This is not to say it can't be done or that you shouldn't do it. It is just that it is more like trying to get big improvements out of a 1098 Ducati then an air-cooled two valve Ducati. The less refined a motor is the easier it is to improve upon. The 8V Guzzi motor is much closer to the edge of what it can do then the previous 4V motors.

Don't be bustin' on Naty Boh, Hon. It's a B'more thing.

By the way, most (if not all) octane booster is a waste of money and does not deliver what they imply it does.

That is a European rating and does not directly equate to 'murican. I assume you are in the US. We use RON+MON/2. It is fine to run US high test in your Guzzi. Some bikes do suffer from light knocking in some situations but that is easily fixed with a PowerCommander, or you can go the Ratchet route and fudge the engine temp sensor reading (see engine temp sensor thread).

Sorry,I was refering to the compression on one side, rebound on the other. The guts of the fork. Whether it's right side up or upside down is another matter.

That's funny. Not suprising, but funny. The Guzzi specs are wrong again. Looks like the forks are just modern versions of V 11 forks.

That is not how the thermistors I work with work. You may be confusing the range the thermistor is most accurate in with the range the thermistor is least sensitive in. They are not one and the same. Yes, it may be easier for you to read a value when the reading slows down, but that does not mean the computer is in the same boat. The range a thermistor is most accurate (which is what I assume you meant when you said "sensitive") is determined by the material it is made from and it is usually somewhere in the middle of it's range, not on the far end of it's range. The air temp sensors I work with are usually most accurate in the 77 degree F area, where 5 degrees is worth about 1,000 ohms.

Preload is adjusted on both sides at the same time normally. And you can't miss preload adjusters, they usually stick out the top of the fork leg. I do not have either (V 11 & Griso) but don't recall seeing preload adjusters on Brevas or sports, but the Guzzi spec sheet says there are (but no reference to compression or rebound).

No, that's backwards. The larger the difference in resistence between two temps, the greater the precision in the reading. The less difference in resistence between two temps the harder it is to tell the diference. Picture a tach. What would allow to read the tach more accurately, more or less space between the numbers?

Preload (which I don't think it has) would be on both sides. You probably mean compression and rebound. Don't know which side is which.

I tried, at the suggestion of my local dealer, a BikeMaster brand battery. It looked like a Yuasa, but was a lot less expensive. Not only did it not last long enough, but it failed suddenly and as we were leaving for our bike trip out to Indy for MotoGP. I had to get a replacement battery to fit at the last minute. I'll never try that again.

Dang, that's funny. I nearly pissed my pants when I read that. Thanks, RH. I needed a good laugh.

With humor. But seriously, if we don't survive but we spent the money/made the effort, does it matter? I personally would rather die trying then die fat. Remember, it's not whether you win or lose, well, yeah it is. I think the arguement that we may not survive even if we spend the money/make the effort is nuts.

If it is ABS plastic(or something like it), you want a glue that contains MEK(Methyl Ethyl Ketone) to repair it. It comes in different forms ranging from thinner then water to thick and gooey. It will melt the plastics and allow them to fuse, then evaporate so the plastic can re-harden. Like these... http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/ABS-Glue

You do have a point. "Honorable" is a subjective term. To you, trying to prevent deaths of children from toxic substances is "Fascism". To me it is not. But then, your superior intellect is there to save me from Fascism and brakes that are too powerful for my own good. Thanks.

This is not "Fascism" but rather inept"ism". No one involed in this cockup is trying to take away motorcycles, they just did not word a well meaning but overzealous bill well at all and things that were not meant to be included are. It is an example of goverment ineptitude and that crosses party lines.

That is up there with them adding motorcycles to HOV lanes. Every now and then even a blind squirrel finds a nut.

Motomonster, any chance you will post your map in the map section?

Sorry, if I had any sense I would just walk away, but I'm not seeing the difference between these two concepts. Please enlighten me. RH-"the more optimal solution would be to make a direct thermal contact between the holder and sensor and THEN make a new map based on a more accurate temp sensor read...... I don't recall reading an account on this Forum of anyone who's done this. " Me-"If your asking if anyones improved the response of the sensor (with thermal paste, brass holder, whatever), I'm sure a few have. I know I have, ..........Improving the response of your head temp sensor as Pete suggested and then tuning the bike to get maximum benefit out of it is the best solution in my opinion." What is the difference between your "direct thermal contact" with "a new map based on a more accurate temp sensor read" and the rest of us improving sensor accuracy with thermal paste, a brass holder, whatever, and then tuning the injection to get maximum benefit out of it?

If your asking if anyones improved the response of the sensor (with thermal paste, brass holder, whatever), I'm sure a few have. I know I have, but I've been trying to stay out of this as much as possible. I know I haven't been entirely sucessful. Improving the response of your head temp sensor as Pete suggested and then tuning the bike to get maximum benefit out of it is the best solution in my opinion. Anyone who wants to do otherwise is welcome to, and I will even enjoy reading about it. But it makes no sense to me unless you are just doing it for the sake of learning.