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Gio

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Posts posted by Gio

  1. Did a quick search and only found a few references to the belly pan (and many more to other bellies of various descriptions) - I'm thinking of the one offered by Motomecca in the UK (original green of course)...

     

    Comments or thoughts anyone? A close-up pic of one fitted would be appreciated.

     

    Gio

  2. Thanks, Gio.  Since I'm in the middle of cutting spacers right now, this is helpful for comparison purposes as I dial things in. 

     

    Before I make my next pile of plastic sawdust, any comments?  Gio?  Brian?  Dave?  Anybody?

     

    Hi again,

     

    I also have additional measurements where I sat on the bike with gear and bounce up and down a few times in an attempt to simulate a "dynamic" situation (NB this is not dynamic sag as measured with a zip tie after a test run - can't find these notes) :

     

    Stock (111mm) spacers measured at 124-75 = 49mm (~40%)

    Longer (120mm) spacers measured at 125-100 = 25mm (~20%)

     

    Again this is for stock springs, 10w oil and ~180lb plus gear.

     

    Gio

  3. I have a Canadian spec V11S (2000) and weigh ~180 plus gear. I would say the stock fork springs work ok with 10w oil after adding longer spacers (109 stock + 11 = 120mm). This decreased front sag from 38 to 23mm

     

    Gio

  4. Check the valve clearance...I just had the right side exhaust adjuster fail (see Jun 6 post) after wringing my V11S out - made a sound like two ferrets fighting in a bag of spanners...

     

    Replaced the adjuster and all is well again.

     

    BTW - why is the right side usually noiser..? (I noticed this also)

     

    Gio

  5. Hi Jim,

     

    I ordered the fairing kit for my 2000 V11S direct from Magni two years ago and as far as I can recall it arrived without any instructions...

     

    Installation was fairly straightforward though. Just make sure you have the bike well supported from underneath before you loosen the triple clamp to fit the new clip-ons. I took the opportunity to replace the fork oil at the same time.

     

    Check for fitment against the tank on each side - I had to trim a little material from one side but otherwise the fit was good. I think I also added larger washers for the brackets that attach to the valve covers.

     

    Good luck,

     

    Gio

  6. Same deal with BT-010 front (cupped on left side after ~12,000km just about to replace) but rear seems to wear evenly.

     

    Out of curiosity do you folks that ride on the left side of the road see cupping on the right of the tire (or should I say tyre?)...?

     

    Gio

  7. Good suggestions - thanks. I'll take a closer look at that rocker arm and also replace with a new one (reasonable price and funds permitting...)

     

    Cheers,

     

    Gio

    53575[/snapback]

     

    Relative to the rocker arm, as far as I can tell the adjuster nut makes even contact and there is no evidence of any mis-alignment.

     

    A new rocker arm is ~ $220 CDN and not stocked at my dealer so I'll see how the new adjuster holds up in the interim.

  8. Gio,

     

    O/T:  I tried responding to your board email but it was kicked back as a bad email address.  Can you update or check your member data or contact me with another email accont so I can respond to your questions,

    53546[/snapback]

     

    Hi edge - just sent you a pm.

  9. After accelerating hard from some lights yesterday, the right side of the engine started to make a noise like the valve train has disintegrated. I limped home and this morning discovered the adjuster for the right side exhaust valve had come apart - the nut and half the threaded adjuster was found wedged in a channel, the other half of the adjuster was still in place. Push rod looks ok.

     

    This (at ~47k km) is the second time the adjuster for this valve has failed (the first was at ~20k and replaced under warranty). I just did a valve adjustment. I use 4 thou inlet, 6 thou exhaust.

     

    Anyone else had this experience? I wonder if Im over tightening the lock-nut on the adjuster?? Any other suggestions (apart from carrying a spare..)...?

     

    Gio

  10. During recent rear tire change I just had the left (brake) side bearing replaced for the second time as it felt a little rough (~47,000 km, first replaced at ~14,000) and took the opportunity to check other bearings / spacer at the same time.

     

    Bearing wise the bevel box outer (right side) also needed replacing - others ok.

     

    The stock spacer measured 112.55 mm and the space itself between 112.6 and 112.7 mm so I replaced the spacer with a new one which measured exactly 113.2 mm (as reported by Baldini).

     

    So in conclusion, my spacer was 0.65mm short.

     

    Gio

  11. This bearing was indeed replaced at 40,000Km along with the needle bearing and inner race. My feeling that this should be a 40,000Km automatic change as it is a cheaper bearing. :2c:.

    MG will provide a bike for me in the future and the store has a customer for life, and we all benefited in the end.

    49752[/snapback]

     

    Hi Brian,

     

    I would also like to thank-you for this post as I am just about to replace rear tire and at ~46,000 km on the clock will take your advice and check/replace the rear spacer and wheel bearings (already had the left side replaced at ~14,000 under warranty) as well as those in the bevel box.

     

    I couldn't agree more re the service out of Chilliwack.

     

    Cheers and good luck with the R1,

     

    Gio

  12. You mean the leak from the recessed hole where there is a pin?  My bike has been leaking there for years and the dealer never fixed the problem.  I will have it repaired when the bike goes in for the recall.  I think someone had epoxyed or used silicone around the area to stop the leak, but I would rather just have the sidecover replaced.

     

    Mike

     

     

    Exactly - not a big deal but anoying eh? I think I'll try a dab of silicone.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Gio

  13. Rocketman,Baldini - thx for the feedback.

     

    I must confess that despite positive feedback from other members re the shockproof heavy I still wonder if the viscosity is too low for my current riding temperature (typically 5 to 10c). Having looked at how thick it is (at 4c) I can't help thinking that this must cause significant drag in the transmission - at least untill things warm up in there - but I guess that doesn't take too long.

     

    Based mainly on feedback from forum members (and also this feedback from the Redline folks) I'll be giving the heavy a try also.

     

    Gio

  14. Gio, I was confused since you'd made a typo and compared MT-90 to MT-90.

     

    Sorry about the typo - yes I was comparing MT-90 with shockproof heavy.

     

    Like you I was expecting similar cold viscosity based on the rating....but the heavy is much, much thicker at low temperatures...?

     

    Can anyone offer an explanation for this?

     

    Gio

  15. You got me here Gio. Now I am really confused... 

     

    Janusz,

     

    Just to clarify - I'm comparing the GL-4 MT-90 (product code 83522-50304) with Shockproof Heavy (product # 83522-58204) and found the viscosity of the shockproof to be much lower. Did you compare MT-90 or the high performance 75/90 with shockproof heavy in your experiment?

     

    Gio

  16. I measured the following voltages over the w/e (intermittent charging light was NOT illuminated at the time) for info :

     

    Pre-start = 12.6V

    At idle = 12.1V

    At 2000 rpm = 15.1V

     

    Shortly after posting these measurements, I got caught with a flat battery (surprisingly after about a 30 min ride) but was able to bump start and get home.

     

    I put the battery tender on overnight and was fully charged next day.

     

    Interestingly - the battery/charging light has not come on, even intermittently for the last few rides - so I wonder if the charging light was just a symptom of low charge in the battery. Anyone know how the basis of how the indicator light works?

     

    Gio

     

    PS - I still expect to need to either replace battery (now almost 5 years old) or look further into alternator output, but am curious about the indicator light...

  17. I kept them in the freezer for couple of days and then, in very unscientific manner, tested the flow. Shockproof heavy spilled out much easier then the other, equally viscosity rated oil.

     

    Hey Janusz,

     

    I was curious about these results so I put some MT-90 (75w90) and shockproof heavy (75w250) in two glass tubes and cooled down to ~4c in my fridge (also garage temperature at this time of year). The viscosity of the MT-90 was much lower (like thick syrup) than the MT-90 (more like liquid honey)....? Any thoughts?

     

    Gio

  18. When doing the recall my mechanic did not mention any abnormality in my gearbox. Knowing him I am almost sure (right, Geo?) that he would notice and tell me if anything was not perfect.

     

    Hi Janusz,

     

    Agreed. I know the mechanic in question personally and can vouch for both his experience and integrity.

     

    Very interesting experimental results - I wonder if shift quality would be improved going from the Redline MT-90 (75w90) I'm currently using to the shockproof heavy (as I believe it was when changing from the stock fluid)....?

     

    Gio

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