Gio
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Posts posted by Gio
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Just to add to an earlier comment on this thread (and assuming we both survive the perils of syncing..) I will need to change transmission fluids shortly and plan to try some of the things I have learned here.
Out of interest I asked my MG dealer what they currently use/recommend and was told 230cc of 80wt plus 20cc of moly for the final (bevel) drive (or use the MG product which has moly already added, BUT that there was some evidence that use of moly in the transmission (gearbox) fluid can cause leakage from the rear seal...?
Anyone else heard this?
Gio
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Hi,
Point taken - what is an accepted abbreviation for one person may be meaningless for another. I use LHS and RHS to denote left and right-hand side respectively.
I sure hope this elusive synchronisation is my ticket back....the motor was running just peachy before this episode.
Gio
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I'm afraid I'm still confused....
When you refer to the "left idle screw" do you mean the horizontal adjuster that determines the end of the travel on the LHS?
Gio
(PS - I noted that both idle air-by-pass screws were at approx 5/8 out ie half-way between the manual and your recommendation of 3/4)
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Thanks Doc.
The TPS "measurement" I gave was actually a quick check using the Power Commander s/w and observing the % throttle read-out. I checked when the map was installed (approx 12 months ago) that this read from 0 to 100 and so if the TPS had changed figured this would no longer be the case. In fact the readings were between -1 and 0 with the throttle closed and 100 with the throttle fully open (so my conclusion is that this has not changed - reasonable).
Is there a place you can easily measure the voltage from the TPS (other than using an in-liine connector with test points, or the old paper clip down the back of the connector routine) ?
So if I understand correctly :
1. close the bypass screws
2. back-out to between 1/2 and 3/4 turn to give 1050 to 1100 rpm
3. balance using the thumb-wheel (using a lock-nut to secure) ?
The manual isn't exactly over abundant with info on this procedure plus this is a first for me on a fuel-injected twin.
Yours with increasing anticipation,
Gio
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I connected up the PC in order to check the throttle posn and it reads from -1/0 closed to 100 fully open so I think the TPS is probably ok (if this is a godd enough test). Tick-over is approx 1000 rpm as indicated by the PC.
I don't know about the vent tubes that you refer to (?) but since the symptoms do resemble those of poor sync, I just checked this - see current measurements in cm of Hg vs engine speed in rpm with those obtained last time (in brackets) below (as measured at the inlet manifolds using a mercury gauge).
Engine speed LHS#1 RHS#2
tickover 15 (21) 16 (21)
2000 14 (18) 15 (18)
3000 24 (24) 26 (23)
4000 32 (30) 34 (30)
So where as last time I checked the sync, both cylinders were within 1cm across this range (spec from the manual is 7mbar which I calculate to be approx 0.5cm Hg) so no adjustments were made.
Now I have between 1 and 2 cm difference but have no idea if this is significant or not - can anyone advise. What is the recommended adjustment procedure for syncing?
Thanks again for all your help / patience
Gio
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I did not remove the fuel filter - just the air filter for inspection / ease of access to the rear susp adjustment.
Has anyone else found the need to "prime" the fuel system following removal of the tank? I would not normally expect this to be necessary but given other related threads (proximity of pump to cylinders, near horizontal orientation, tank suck etc) I'm wondering if this could be the culprit?
I will be working on the bike again later if anyone has any flashes of inspiration.
Gio
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So I removed the tank again and checked the hoses, plug wires etc and all seemed ok. I pulled both plugs which appeared the normal brown colour (ie no evidence of any fouling) put everything back together again and went for a test ride - still have the problem!
I checked for tank suck (no evidence) and even briefly ran with the tank cap open to double-check. It's almost like the sync is way out..?
I rode for around 30km but the problem still persists.
Any other ideas?
Gio
(PS - Power to the fuel pump is restored once the kill switch is on...must learn how to use those symbols...)
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I currently have the tank off looking for my own problem so just checked the two lines for you by spraying some WD40 into each. As noted - thicker hose drains the cap area via the hole/hose on the left and the thinner hose on the right is the cap breather. Both terminate in a holder just above the exhaust collector. I too have seen water collect in this area (and also use a tank-bag...)
Gio
PS - With regard to my own problem (see spitting and popping) I now seem to have lost power to the fuel pump - the plot thickens...
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Thanks for all the suggestions - I will be trying these later and will advise.
Gio
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Nice job on the alternator cover. And now the engine right....?
Gio
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I removed the gas tank over the w/e (in order to increase pre-load on the rear shock) and after putting it back on went for a test ride - the the additional pre-load certainly firming things up as intended (fully loaded sag down to 30 from 33mm with 2 full turns on the adjuster - I'll try to find the thread on this and add).
The bad news is that whilst setting off under moderate power I have all kinds of spitting / mis-firing / popping until I get up to speed, at which point everything seems ok again (ie pulls hard and clean when at speed, just not when getting up to speed). Very bad.
As far as I can recall, the only items disconnected/re-connected were the two fuel hoses, two electrical (level and solenoid) and two drain tubes from the filler. I also checked the air-filter which was clean.
I had to trim the end of the hose from the regulator as it had become a little ragged but it went back on ok (I thought I may have allowed some crap to get in but am usually carefull about this and cover the ends of disconnected hoses with tape whilst working...)
I have a long trip coming up next week (how do they know..?) so need to nail this glitch asap
Ideas or suggestions anyone?
Gio
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Personally I'm happy with the BT010 on both front and back (160/60). The bike seems to handle much better than it did on the stock BT57's (particularly in the wet) and I'm getting reasonable mileage (~11,000 km for the last rear, stock lasted just over 12,000 km)
Gio
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Thanks for the welcome(s) !
Re the valve covers - the stock silver paint started to flake off the front quite early (I ride in crappy weather also), as did that on the alternator cover (my logo came off at some point as well) so I had all 3 re-painted with red (crinkle) paint which matches the frame reasonably closely and a new logo installed. The paint has stood up real well to road grime and I have had several positive comments.
Same problem (but to a much lesser extent) on parts of the engine/sump/swingarm but didn't do anything about these areas as yet.
Gio
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Apologies if this was covered but whilst the breather hose is a good idea, perhaps the real problem is one of the rear hugger not extending far enough forward/downward in order to prevent water/road crud from blasting this sensitive area....? (I see others have had similar problems with the shortenened nature of the front fender also).
Anyone aware of an aftermarket hugger replacement...?
Gio
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This one caused me some grief also. Using a combination of the above suggestions I was able to access the forward u-joint by pulling the bevel housing (at which point I noted the alignment marks were not...?) and suspending the shaft as far upwards as it would go using a bungee. I used a mini grease gun with a 5" tube into which I put about a 30 degree bend at the end with the fitting - there was just enough room to access through the driveshaft passage in the swing arm (with the grease point in the lower position) and no need to disconnect the shock.
Gio
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I can concur with many of these obsevations. I have a history of shift problems on my V11S (typically a lagging miss-shift going up from 1 to 2) and my dealer has looked into numerous possibilities (incl replacing the clutch line with an oversize and new master/slave cylinders to check for any lag).
For this reason I often short-shift from 1 to 3 to avoid the problem but have also learned that pre-loading the lever before shifting and also making a firm shift helps a lot. It seems like this box does not like to be rushed.
Having read some of the things others have tried I recently moved the shift linkage from the upper hole (stock) to the lower position and also gave the whole linkage a thourough clean and lube. This made a big difference but I'm not sure if it was diue to the linkage re-location or the clean/lube (?) - perhaps a combination of both.
BTW I'm still not convinced that this can be done without removing the starter motor... (no big deal however)
Gio
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Hello,
I bumped into a fellow V11 rider about a month ago in Vancouver, BC who told me about this site, and with the exception of my wanted ad for a Magni fairing (and of course the obligatory contribution to all things oil related) have since lurked in the background reading posts on various topics.
I have to say that there is a lot of usefull and interesting content on the site (some of which have already paid dividends*) so I feel compelled to de-lurk and express my appreciation.
I purchased a 2000 V11S new in Feb 2001 (ie just out of warranty slobbery) and with ~27,000 km now on the clock have made the following changes :
Factory fly-screen, tank and soft-bags
K&N filter
BT 010's front and rear (160)
Mistral ss cans
PC
As with many of you, I have endured transmission woes (*a recent change to the lower of the two linkage mounting holes plus a good clean/lube of the mechanism worked wonders - believe me) and less than stellar paint quality (had both valve covers re-painted under warranty).
Despite this, I remain passionate about the bike (I wonder if I will ever re-adjust to the sheer fun-factor of a big twin vs the more familiar in-line ujm) and have had great support from my dealer.
I will add my input to the relevent threads where appropriate but in the interim thanks again for this forum, enjoy your bike whenever you can and ensure the rubber side remains downward if at all possible.
Ciao,
Gio
'00 V11S
'92 ZR750
'98 Border Collie
PS - I'm still looking for a Magni fairing in green..
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I have used Castrol 20w50 on my V11S since new (~27,000km ago) with regular changes every 5000km, and replacing the filter every other oil change (ie every 10,000km). I removed the oil pan last service and found some, but not what I thought was an unusual amount of residue.
I also use the same oil (only 10w40) in my ZR750 on which I have done over 90,000km (but changing the filter every 5000km also). Call me old fashioned but dino seems to work fine for me. Gio
Popping and misfiring
in Technical Topics
Posted
Rich,
I'm looking for an alternative to my Motion Pro mercury carb stix (work ok on my 4 cylinder Kawi but not so good on the MG it seems)
You mention the Twin Max system. Are these electronic or analog gauges? What sort of cost are we looking at?
Gio