tmcafe

Thanks a lot Greg! Yes, I trust the info in this forum more than the "official" MG stuff, more so when backed by the most competent people here and at Moto Intl. As far as inconsistencies, I've already found some obvious ones: like the mileage schedule for the mesh filter, and even more seriously, the "no-moly" requirement for the drive shaft grease (the French instructions say that it should contain moly!). But we hope that between engineers, typists (as in earlier times), tech writers and translators, much of the info comes out accurate. Still have a few more questions to clarify the above: 2. So it's not SAE 90 as in the tables, but 80W-90 as in the instructions. Should it be hypoid gear oil, or any quality GL-5 can do? 3. I was joking about snake oil (moly additive) because I'd read somewhere that one of Guzzi's recent updates for dealers supposedly said "no more moly" in the drive shaft oil. But if Greg doesn't confirm it, then it stays the same as in the owner's and shop manuals. 4. How can you tell if a grease is a) synthetic, and compatible with other greases? (for a I guess it's written on the tube). Also, Greg brings up a point about the oil grade. When I called Moto Int. the other day, I was told that they use Shell Rotella T. I assumed it was the grade in the manual: 5W-40. So if the manual is wrong about the grade, which one should we use in the V11: 5W-40, or 15W-40? I got the 5W-40, but if that's not the one, I'll exchange it for 15W-40. In any case, the Castrol racing and Agip versions mean that any oil change should cost about $35-40. No way Jose! The other thing Greg mentions is the

I haven't seen this spec in the shop manual yet, but I'll look for it. Hmm... that wouldn't sound too good. The owner's manual, OTOH, says 350W @ 5000 rpm. Maybe they changed the specs a bit from one year model to the other, mine is a 2004 (maybe it's also my wishful thinking and the 350@5k is a typo )

If you find a way, that would be great. Why can the R1150R come with a 700W alternator at about the same total weight as the Guzzi? Although they're great looking bikes, Guzzis could easily be riders' bikes as well: sturdy, easy to maintain and operate. A bigger alternator would be such a useful thing to add... OTOH the Gerbing jacket uses more juice than the Widder vest. Some, like Ryland, have run both gloves and vest (Widder) at cruising speed. I may get the Widder gloves if they're drawing less power than the Gerbings.

Sorry I missed these questions 1. What nuts and bolts need to be checked/retorqued? For instance, I know that in some cases, the bike manufacturers have a specific list of nuts and bolts, just not all of them! Sure, some critical ones come to mind: brake calipers, wheels, engine & frame, etc. But that's way too general. Is this the Italian way, vs. Japan and das Vaterland? 2.

Hi all, I'm so happy that the v11 site is back on--and in a cleaner format, IMO. In the meantime I've been looking for all kinds of wisdom, and found more questions instead. Should any have been addressed before, please redirect me and accept my apologies. So here it goes: 1. Cleaning mesh filter--@ what mileage? Somebody else (dlaing?) said it seems like an overkill to clean it every 6000 miles (drop the pan, gasket thing, etc). In fact, why would you even need a wrench for the filter cover when you can just stab it with a screwdriver to loosen it. Looking in the owner's manual, as well as in the shop manual, I noticed that in both cases, while in the schedule table it is marked as every 6000 miles, the procedure as described in the text calls for 30000km or 18000miles instead. I'd say that's the correct figure, but I don't want to take assumptions for certitude. What's your take? 2. Gearbox/Transmision Oil Grade. Again, the manuals (owner's and shop) list different grades in the table of fluids vs. the procedure text, i.e. SAE 90 in the table and 80W-90 (same as the base drive shaft oil) in the procedure. While it may not be a big difference, I still think that probably the second grade is correct. Also, on the Agip USA website I, which claims they work hand in hand with Piaggio (whether this is good or bad, who knows), I found an oil called MG/S SAE 85W-90 (I guess the initials stand for Moto Guzzi), which is meant for Moto Guzzi transmisions, and replaces the Rotra MP/S, exceeds GL-5, blah, blah... What gives? 3. Drive Shaft Snake Oil (the Moly concoction). I've been looking for what that thing is, or an equivalent of it, and couldn't find anything like a list of ingredients in Agip Rocol ASO/R, or Moly type 4. So here's what I found: http://www.tsmoly.com/catalog/product_info...products_id=246 http://www.tsmoly.com/catalog/product_info...products_id=135 http://www.harpermotoguzzi.com/molyadditive.htm (Guard Dog and Redline) I also found something about Maxima Maxum4 Blend. However, I read about a note/comment saying that actually Moto Guzzi's most recent recommendation for dealers is "do not use any moly compounds" in the drive shaft oil . Also the Agip USA website mentions a Gear MG SAE 85W-140 for bevel box or shaft transmission on Moto Guzzi, to be used instead of Rotra Truck Gear oil. 4. The grease for the shaft drive joints Here Agip has a Lithium EP-1, and an EP-2. Also found several greases at Mme de Walmart (like General Purpose Grease made by SuperTech, with a Lithium Soap 7620-77-1, grade 2 (which is what we need), and a drop point of 350F (the manual calls for about 180C). Then there's Supertech NLGI GC-LB (lithium complex base), but with a drop point of 500F. At a bike store I found Silkolene Pro RG2 with Lithium Stearate, in the form of a pressure can; and a Maxima Waterproof Grease, Lithium, #2, Drop point 282C; and Teflon white Lithium Grease. So again, which to use? 5. Mesh cleaning solvent: Gasoline??? Yes, it's gasoline all the way, in all the other languages. I don't like the idea. Can it be cleaned with something more benign, such as kerosene or such? hmmm 6. Greasing Drive Shaft. How do you clean the old grease? (required) Okay, that's plenty for now. I'm curious what everybody else's experience/knowledge says, and thanks in advance. Best, tmcaf

Thanks for the pictures and comments, thanks everybody for their input on the heated gear. From what I can tell, the alternator is borderline. The Widder gear should draw less than Gerbing, hence Ryland's success in running both gloves and vest, and problems with Gerbing counterparts overtaxing the charging system. I guess gloves should be better than any heated grips. They may also draw less juice. At high speed and in cold weather, the heated grips will eventually become ineffective. The Widder vest is fine for me, nicely made and warm enough. I kept it on for many hours in temps around 25 at highway speeds. Often I'm okay riding with only the heated grips, but the length of the ride will eventually seal the deal. So yeah, get a vest if you plan on riding for long hours in winter temps. The 350 watts are cranked out at 5k rpm, not 10k. But if Ryland can cruise at 3k and still wear the vest and gloves, I feel hope. Of course, how about if you keep them both on, and add high beam to the total. Hmmm... Anyway, whatever gloves I get, I guess they'll be the ones than draw less power. Ryland, I understand how you wired your electric gear, that's easy enough for me . I also see the cut in the seat and the bracket. I'll have to maybe print the pics when I look at the battery and underneath my seat, to figure out exactly what's happening so that I can fix it the way you did. I totally agree that the smaller battery is a poor fix. I'd make better room for the original one as you did.

Oh yeah, forgot that... maybe their daughters, who turned corporate bitches.

Yes, twistedthrottle is the place for SW Motech things, Bags-connection, etc. I actually looked more at Famsa bags (sold by bikerworldusa.com) and in the long run at least they have the advantage that you can buy a tank bag (which is actually two tank bags) and be able to use it on other bikes if you get a base that is either dedicated for that bike or universal and it fits. I may actually consider Famsa, even though they're pricey. PS Hey drknow, can we meet those two riders on your avatar? (and you keep using words with "mount" in your post)

Thanks John. Was the tank marked as "for Breva", or is it just only one Guzzi OEM tank bag that would fit all models, at least the newer ones? I don't remember seeing different ones listed. Also I was hoping to get a second hand one in "like new" shape. Otherwise if I have to buy new, I've been looking at other brands too, and the one from Bags-Connection (yeah, german bag on an italian hottie ) seems one very practical.

Thanks jrt. At least that's what I've heard about the Gerbing gloves vs. Widder. When you're wearing your gloves, are you wearing a vest too? (I've got a Widder which works fine). My first concern would be if the fairly small alternator can take both vest AND gloves (in this case, Gerbing). From the specs, the max 350w come at 5k rpm, which means that one can only rely on the full power if they're running at those revs.

Thanks to O2 V11 and Ryland. Actually I've read about both issues with the filter: either too tight--factory installed, or too loose and possibly easy to unscrew itself from the mount. I could see how both things can happen. 600-1000 miles may not be enough to cause the filter to loosen, on the other hand the filter may have been mounted according to specs, so it may be already loose. For now, after I read some excerpts about oil that Dave sent me from Guzziology, and checking again with Moto Int'l, I understand that the most important thing is the oil, not the filter. The one I found at Madame de Walmart (pronounced with a "V' and stressed on the last syllable ) is a Rotella T 5W-40 fully synthetic. Apparently that's what Moto Int'l are using and it should be okay. The filter I picked is also okay, as I was told by MI. Also since I understand that Ryland's Purolator option requires special order, I picked the filter wrench that fits the de Walmart filter and the ST3614 filter (both made in the good ol' USA !). I'll use whatever it takes to loosen the OEM filter that should have come with the bike, since I'll remove the sump anyway and clean the mesh screen. I still haven't looked specifically for the gear box and final drive oils, which I'd like to change as per owner's manual break-in recommendations. Hope I'll find something suitable; in any case many thanks to Ryland for the offer. As far as tightening the bolts, unless the factory has changed their specs, I'd rather go with the higher forum value, or what Guzziology says, since that is info gathered in shop practice and updated on a regular basis for quite a while. Just as an example, there was at least one serious mistake in the OEM shop manual for F650GS, in which case a particular torque value was high enough to cause breakage (the owner's manual, at least the earlier version, did indicate the correct torque). So I wouldn't be surprised if Guzzi have done their own misprints. I guess although Dave said that with the Cafe Sport and newer models I wouldn't need Guzziology, I may still get it after all. Widder gear draws less power than Gerbing, and I don't know about the gloves but that may be the case too vs. Gerbing gloves, which I was thinking of getting. The reason for Gerbings is that they are leather and less bulky, and they seem to fit better. From what I heard, the Widder gloves get soaked very easily and are bulkier. On the other hand (pun not intended), the latter may draw less power and so allow for gloves AND vest, which is just about what it takes for hours long rides in very low temps. I don't know how they'd do with, say, the Aerostich rain overgloves, if needed, but Gerbings may not do any better under those overgloves. I like the simple solution with the two-prong connctor (probably less bulky than a BMW socket). Both my charger and the Slime pump should have connectors for the two-prong thing, and Widder surely should have some for their equipment. Ryland, whenever you get a chance, if it's not too big a deal, maybe you could take a pic of your battery-wired-through-in-line-fuse setup--as in, "electrics for dummies", since my level of competence in that area (as well as many others ) is that of a ".......fill in as needed....challenged" person. But I'm always willing to learn. I guess the Tycos should be fine. It maybe from Ryland that I first heard about the Siemens vs. Tyco thing, and if they're made in Portugal they should be fine (wtf, they were making Leica R camera bodies last time I looked at one). Who knows, maybe Siemens were made in China. From Ryland's comments the seat vs. battery thing seems to be well enough hidden yet more serious than I thought, so I'll definitely check on that. I haven't ridden the bike since last Monday when I brought it. I'm just about to give it a good wash, it's full of sand and road spray, poor she. Thanks again. tmcafe

PM'd you. Thanks.

I've no doubt about that. Just wish they were closer or that PNW was smaller

Hi all, The almost new Guzzi tank bag I was thinking (not fast enough) to purchase was sold. Now what? The OEM probably looks good, but in a previous post the owner was complaining that the map window had cracked. The option from another owner was a Roadgear tank bag, which was good quality but had a slight fitting problem. Then I saw this (I'll let you comment about the price, and all that Euro vs. Dollar shite ): http://www.helmetheadcyclegear.com/cgi-bin...ex.cgi?pid=4122 What are other options? Thanks. Ciao, tmcafè

Thanks again to Ryland, as well as Brenttodd & Phil. The Rotella I found was a 5W-40 (not 15), and I don't know if it was synthetic or dyno. It was sold by the gallon. I'll search for the Purolator filter since it's much better that the OEM. About the NAPA filter: does it need some special wrench to tighten it (probably not)? As far as the seat-battery wrestling match: I looked at the battery when I got the bike and it seemed to be fine. It actually sits on its side, not upright as usual. There were no cracks/leaks, and I never felt that the seat was in conflict with it. But since Ryland has exactly the same model, and I weigh about 180, I'll have to look into it seriously. I'll get a meter and check the battery charge. Also I know that some owners installed voltmeters, which is probably a good idea since there's a history of lower charges and the alternator is fairly small. Has anybody installed an accessory socket, or do they wire the electrics directly to the battery? As I ride in any temperatures as long as there's no ice/snow on the road, I hope to be able to plug in at least electric gloves (will get them soon) or vest (I have a Widder which draws much less than the Gerbing AFAIK). About the relays: is there a history of all of them failing, or is it just the Siemens? I'd rather go with the Japanese substitute, if not, the Chinese sub should do. I gave up long time on not buying Chinese, since it's hardly possible to find anything that's not made there

Thanks for the welcome Dennis. Haven't been to Moscow yet, but if I do, I'll be looking for a BMW with a Maine accent (oh, what am I saying)

Ryland, Thanks a lot for the tips! I'll follow up with them. I know that the UFI is the OEM filter. What's the difference between the original and the Purolator, other than the latter doesn't need the special filter tool? I'll sure get the Roper plate, and I saw that Greg posted a "how to". As far as the dipstick, perhaps I'll get a thermometer one. At least I'll keep an eye on the accuracy of the original one after I do the oil. Guess I'll go with the Rotella, which you're using too. Do Valvoline and Havoline make a 5W-40 as well? (I only found the Rotella under that grade, but it may just be the store). Hope the low fuel sensor won't go out on me. So I'll have to check the trip mileage (after I have the speedo cable replaced under warranty ). I haven't noticed anything about the seat and the battery, but I'll look into it and let you know (maybe the fix is to lose some pounds ? ). Also the battery may have actually sat for a while. I'll give it a charge just in case. Siemens relay--are you talking about the starter relay? I'll double check so that I know what to expect. Thanks again. If this is what needs for the bike to be sorted out, than it's super. But then I remember one of the Guzziology commendments, about what's cheaper and easier is never the best.... Any more tips will be appreciated

Hi everybody, I've had my V11 for only a few days now. I've already looked into what needs to be done for the 600 miles service. I read the tech FAQs and did a search on oil, filters, and the like. I already got some info, but I'm still not clear about some things. Sorry if they're silly questions, but here it goes: 1. There's actually no mention of the 600 mi service, as is the case with many/most bikes. Instead, the owner's manual says 500 ÷ 1000km (that division sign adds to the confusion ). Why aren't they more specific? 2. Now that I'm almost at 700 miles I'm thinking at least oil and filter. What else? Transmission, shaft drive oil? 3. I guess I need a wrench for the filter, can I order it from the dealer, or is there any substitute? 4. I know that there have been problems with the filter/sump. I've read about some fixes. How do I get the parts? (I guess Greg knows and may be able to order them). 5. Yes, and dumbest of all: what oil? I understand that 5W-40 is only synthetic, but there's this thing about no synthetic during break-in. Also, I found a Rotella T SAE 5W-40 (Shell), marked on the API seal as CI-4/SL (heavy duty). Can it be fed to the V11? TIA!!

This is probably very last century (it's actually good if it goes that far back ), so apologies in advance if everybody knows it, but as a newbie to both Moto Guzzi and this forum, I should acknowledge that Moto International carries a big responsibility! Not that they made any effort to convince me to buy the bike I got (which was not the one I was thinking about), but they were every bit as helpful as they could be. Moto Guzzi should be grateful that these guys are there. I for one am.

Thanks, same to you and everybody else here! Seeing that you too have a LeMans (of course, since it's a LeMans forum ), I'm curious which model of the V11 sport bikes was made in the largest numbers. Sorry if this is an ignorant newbie question...

Well, Looks like the topic had already been there for a while, so here I am hijacking it . I wasn't even sure if other V11s were welcome, but now that I see it's okay, I can join. A few days ago I got my first MG, a new 2004 Cafè Sport (yes, the real deal, bronze tank with golden Öhlins and Brembo stuff. Actually this bike wasn't even high on my list (I had started looking for an R1150R, then took another look at the Breva... and the rest is history). Even though the bike doesn't have the goodies I was thinking of in the beginning (you know, all the beemer year-round rider stuff: ABS, heated grips, socket, big alternator, handguards, luggage, etc), I liked it enough to override all the other considerations. I rode it home for some 600+ miles and it was great to see that it can actually be comfortable enough for long trips as well. It sounds, feels, and runs great, which already means that I'm not too pissed with the fact that the speedo/odo stopped working right before I got home, but I can't wait to get it ready to ride again (600mi service, registration & insurance, and the speedo fix). I'll post some pics when I get a camera and after I give the bike a good bath (riding in non-stop rain made it look like a dirt bike). Cheers!