tmcafe
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Posts posted by tmcafe
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While having the speedo out I found a bad bulb. There's 12/1.2 marked on it, and the manual lists 1.2w. From Autozone I got a 1.4 w (Sylvania code 74, 14v, 1.4w). Is it the correct one, ok to use? Sorry if it's a silly q.
All other warnings heeded, including checking correct insertion in holder.
And while we're on the subject, anybody know what kind of bulb goes in the license plate light? Thanks.
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Thanks for the info Greg. Is there a better example of assembly work a la Luigi?
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Trying to remove the D-section shaft that screws onto the reverse threaded trip reset axle in the old speedo/odo (knob broke off and small pieces of it are rattling in the case). The bugger won't loosen at all. I'm suspecting it's either glued or at least threadlocked real well onto the threaded axle. It looks a bit misaligned with the axle, so actually it makes me think that it wasn't screwed in but rather glued. I read that some folks got replacement knobs that didn't fit. Maybe the knob was sized for the Veglia odo reset axle and wouldn't fit the ITI ones.
Also haven't found a way to block/hold fast the reset axle so that I can put more torque to try to loosen the D-section shaft. Anybody done it?
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Sorry, I know this has been discussed before (I've read all the relevant postings). Anyway, my trip odo reset knob broke off too. I can still use it if I push whatever's left of it into the D-shaped section of the metal shaft. I got a new odo under warranty, but it came without the knob. I know one of the last fixes was a high-end metal knob machined by Sluggo (this is beyond my current capabilities).
So, any other reasonable fixes of late? (other than getting one from Guzzi which may or may not fit according to some of the experiences posted) Thanks.
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Thanks everybody. Trying to follow the advice. Only trouble is that the goop on the screws doesn't disolve easy with any of the solvents I have. Tried gasket remover, brakleen, carb cleaner, even denatured alcohol. The goop, now rubbery perhaps from solvents, IS removable, only it's a pain, got to do it piece by piece along the thread.
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I'm installing the Roper plate (had to change oil and filter again and said WTF, I've been putting it off for too long). So I've been following Greg's instructions posted here.
Anyway, I noticed that the perimeter screws on the inner sump (not the 4 ones that hold the journals) were hard to remove and had an amber color dry film near the heads. Were they threadlocked by Luigi, as it may seem, and if so, should I clean them and use some kind of Loctite (I only have blue)? Given the oily mess in there, I'd assume the inner threads would have to be cleaned as well in order to make any Loctite work.
So what's the scoop? (or the goop
) Anything to worry about?TIA
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That's how it is on my bike.- thin shim goes between swingarm and bevel drive (RH side)- thick washer goes under the nut (between the nut and swingarm on the LH side)
If that is wrong, what would be the right order?
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Incidentally (wonder who made this map?) I like to see Romania in its pre-WWII shape
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Weird for the tire to wear out so fast. You've run the Stradas before, right? What do you suspect this time?
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Thanks for the info! Good timing, I was just going to ask for details. I'll be installing the new one and hope that with some preventive maintenance it'll last longer than the orig.
What kind of grease? Would teflon spray grease work?
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Likely stupid q but trying to understand: if two shocks differ in length but have the same stroke (in theory at least) the rear wheel travel will be the same, but the longer shock will result in a taller ride height? Also coversely if two shocks are of equal length but differ in stroke, rear will bottom at same height but one shock will cause more travel (and a taller ride height) ?No, I have the Ohlins Fork and Penske shock, but I have seen a few Ohlins shock equipped Guzzis parked next to Sachs equipped and have always seen the Ohlins ones sitting higher, of course one could set sag to have the reverse result, but I have seen no such thing, also, ignoring the alleged specs the bottoming out point could vary between the two shocks.I have no reason to doubt the Ohlins shock numbers Beisel posted, which I may have posted long ago(with some error of measurement) but I think the Sachs numbers could be off by as much as 2mm.
Öhlins
286/70
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Sachs
278/60
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Yes, and that's the major surgery way (cut off the case to get inside etc). But Greg said that he's figured out a simpler way by just piercing the plastic housing with a sharp soldering gun to make access for greasing. Not sure if that's for a fix or more as prevention. I got a new speedo under warranty (the original is almost out, turning now and then, and the trip reset with same symptom as above). When I install it I ll ask for details on how to grease and I may document and post the details here.Do a search on the topic. I think Greg Field did a whole thread on servicing your speedo, complete with pictures. It shouldn't be too hard to find
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Without a part number from the actual shock (i should have recorded it when i took off and replaced the shock, last year, duh) I asked the Ohlins rep whats the shock stroke for MG 1260 and 127 (found both part nos in a thread here, the latter cant be as it is the one with remote). He said its same for both, 70 mm, but thats metal to metal (plastic bumper is 19 mm). Did you actually notice or better yet measure more rear wheel travel with the Ohlins vs Sachs?I googled and found 128 mm stated for the rear for both Ohlins and Sachs equipped bikes, but I know that they should not be the same. The Ohlins bikes have about 2 cm more rear travel (~1cm more stroke at shock)My shop and owner's manual showed nothing.
The sales brochure for my 2000 V11S shows a White Power shock with 64mm stroke (which is about 128mm travel)
But the shock is a Sachs, not a White Power, and I did a rough measurement on the Sachs and got 60mm.
The V1100Sporti was equipped with White Power and its manual diagrams the WP shock as have 64 mm stroke.
The Ohlins after market shock is 70mm stroke.(which should provide about 140mm travel (bumper fully compressed)) I am pretty sure the aftermarket and OEM shock are the same, but the same is not true of aftermarket and OEM forks.
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Sorry to revive this old thread--at least I m doing my homework. I do have a shock spanner, but is there a way to use it on the shock adjusters without removing damn near everything (tank AND airbox)? Removing side panels and rising tank won't do. So far the drift and mallet seem like the only option.Others here have good advice for you. The stock springs are very soft for an average sized person. Getting your bike sprung properly for your weight as Dave suggests is your first priority. As Greg said, closed / all the way clockwise is full stiff for damping. Backing off (anti-clockwise), decreases damping. Factory settings are at most a starting point. As you add spring pressure to properly suspend the weight, you'll have to add damping to control it, especially rebound damping.Adjusting rear preload requires a spanner to "grab" the adjusting rings. It can be walked around with a brass punch once you back off the lock ring. This manner of adjustment is tedious and usually causes some cosmetic damage to the adjusters. A proper spanner is pretty inexpensive.
In purgatorium Luigi will adjust the shock preload for hours a day.
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I googled and found 128 mm stated for the rear for both Ohlins and Sachs equipped bikes, but I know that they should not be the same. The Ohlins bikes have about 2 cm more rear travel (~1cm more stroke at shock)
My shop and owner's manual showed nothing.
The sales brochure for my 2000 V11S shows a White Power shock with 64mm stroke (which is about 128mm travel)
But the shock is a Sachs, not a White Power, and I did a rough measurement on the Sachs and got 60mm.
The V1100Sporti was equipped with White Power and its manual diagrams the WP shock as have 64 mm stroke.
The Ohlins after market shock is 70mm stroke.(which should provide about 140mm travel (bumper fully compressed)) I am pretty sure the aftermarket and OEM shock are the same, but the same is not true of aftermarket and OEM forks.
Thanks! Looks like the "official" number is another example of "accurate" info from Luigi. The fork is listed by Ohlins with an actual 120 mm. Would be interesting to find a figure for the rear susp. travel. For now I'll use your estimate.
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In the meantime I've found some numbers: 120 mm front, 128 mm
rear. Anybody can confirm?
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Anybody knows what the "official" numbers are for front and rear suspension travel on bikes with Ohlins (Cafe, Coppa, etc)?
Sorry if this info has been posted here but I couldn't find it.
TIA
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Thanks RH. Indeed the axle design--with the slots to hold it and counter the torque on opposite side indicates that it is to be torqued without the fork bottoms pinched by the bolts (four, two per fork on my bike--more like type 1 in the manual). FWIW the manual mentions the speced torque on the axle being applied last--see F p. 4, but we know Luigi the manual editor should be taken with a grain of salt. Torquing the axle first does make more sense. Grazie!TMC, it seems you've not yet fully grasped how this works.Tightening the pinch bolts before torquing the axle nut DOES NOT, and CANNOT secure the proper distance between fork lowers!
It is PRECISELY because of this, that it is NEVER the correct procedure -- per the Guzzi manual and every other manual on every bike ever made, and every fork ever made with pinch bolts on one fork lower and a threaded hole or axle nut on the other fork lower. If you do it by the proper procedure, all the slack in the "stack" (which continues to be taken up all the way up to final torque on the axle nut) is taken out in compression, reaching its FINAL dimension BEFORE you tighten the pinch bolts. This AND ONLY THIS ensures the correct distance between fork lowers and a non-binding fork. Works every time.
Hope this helps, my friend.
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Thanks. It is obvious the pinch bolts don t do anything to the bearings. While I understand that the spacers keep bearings from being affected by the side loads caused by torquing the axle, I m still wondering about the effect on the forks. They are meant to be as straight as possible in order to minimize stiction. Torquing the axle would change the distance between the fork bottoms--unless the distance was secured by the pinch bolts. OTOH it might be that the torque value for the axle just brings the fork bottoms together at the correct distance. Clearly the axle is designed to be torqued on its own (without resistance as in the case with the pinch bolts already torqued). I saw the tool you describe in web pics. Toolkit doesnt have it--no surprise. It was prolly put together as a standard kit for V11. It also has no tool for the ft axle nut. I bought a fairly inexpensive 30mm spanner for that.It is not torquing the pinch bolts before torquing the axle nut that can cause too much pressure on the bearings, it is over torquing the axle nut can shorten the length of the bearing spacer causing side loads on the bearing when you tighten it down that should not be there. Wheel bearings are not designed for continuous high side loads like that. The reason the spacer tube is there between the bearings is to keep the inner races of the bearings a preset distance apart so that the torque used to secure the axle is not transfered to the bearing.As far as the axle setup you mention, it sounds familiar. I am thinking I have seen something like that before. The tool for tightening the axle was a tube with two short nubs that when you inserted the tube into the axle locked into the notches in the axle. You then stuck a screw driver or other such rod threw two opposing holes in the other end of the tube to hold the axle in place.
Did you look through the tool kit that came with the bike. As crazy as it sounds there might be a tool in the kit that does just what you need. Or not.
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Thanks that soun ds like a useful tool.I've got the Ohlins hollow front axle too. Can't look at the one I made at the moment, but it's just a piece of 1/4 inch thick x 1 inch wide aluminum (if memory serves me correctly) x 3 or 4 inches long, with the corners ground down to a radius that fits in those half circle slots, hold it with a cresent wrench for the torqueing part of the exercise. Easy to make with a saw and file. Doesn't have to be perfect, just close enough.Still wondering why do some folks mention the potential issue of putting too much pressure on the wheel bearings if the axle is torqued before the pinch bolts?
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Thanks Baldini and RH. Yes Ohlins stock but mines are diff though: 30 mm nut and washer instead of the Allen, and those two slots on edge of opposite wider end whereas yours seems to thread into right fork bottom. Four pinch bolts two per fork where yours has one set on right. There was a pic of that kind of axle maybe I ll find it. Might be common with Ducati. Also if you find a large pic of a Coppa (the official pics of the Cafe don't seem to show the axle nut setup on mine!--typical Luigi) you may be able to discern the large axle nut on the right fork bottom. As for the through hole RH mentions it can't be used for torquing as it's further in where axle is inside fork bottom.tmcafe, you have Ohlins forks? Mine look like this. Yours are different? -
Thanks for the feedback. The wheel did at most four turns when spun with force by foot. I ve seen much better.
The axle has a larger diameter section on the left with nothing for a hex tool like in the rear. Instead it has two opposite holes about 1 in from edge (probably to insert a rod to pull it out easier) and two semicircular notches on the edge--the diams of these are about 1/4 in. I assume the only way the axle could be torqued to 90 as specd would be to insert a thin tip something like a flat screwdriver to align either notch with the split in the fork bottom and jam it against it while nut is being torqued.
Not sure i understand how a shorter spacer (fortunately both front and rear spacers seem to work fine) would increase bearing friction. Would it be uneven pressure?
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Thanks RH and FB. Tightening the axle nut first obviously makes sense as it eliminates any play between fork bottoms, spacer, and wheel. Actually in my case the problem was solved kind of half way through: I tightened the axle nut up to the point where it started spinning, as there isn't anything at the opposite end to counter the nut torque (unless you stick something in one of those two semicircular notches on the edge and align it to stop against the split in the fork bottoms. So the axle got tight enough so nothing was loose on the axle, then torqued the pinch bolts, then finally the nut was torqued easily.
But the effing brakes are still rubbing against rotors. Maybe the calipers could use some cleaning.
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Just reinstalled my front wheel (had a new Diablo put on) when I noticed that the spacer between the right fork leg and the wheel (bearing) spins easily, though it doesn't seem to move along the axle. WTF? I've never had this happen.
The only reason I can think of would be tightening the pinch bolts before the axle nut. I tightened the axle nut by hand barely snug, then clamped on the front brake and held it like that with a zip tie while I torqued the pinch bolts, then I torqued the axle nut (reason to do this would be to position the wheel so that the calipers grab more evenly--but my pads still rub against the disks so the front wheel won't spin more than about four revs (?)
The shop manual is expectedly confusing, as it mentions tightening the nut first, then torquing the pinch bolts and then the nut. OTOH I know that some are adamant about tightening the pinch bolts first to center the wheel and prevent fork stiction.
Any tips appreciated!
1.4 w for 1.2 w in dash
in Technical Topics
Posted
Thanks DanM!