lemppari
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Posts posted by lemppari
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Rode 650 km's up to Lapland today. The engine purrs fine after the last TB sync using the Micha method, getting 5,9 liters/100 km, riding 130-140 km/h. All should be well,BUT:
As a devout Guzzichondriac, I began to hear a new sound, a yawling or whine, from the rear. I have just changed the rear trans oil and added some moly, as I do every 5-6000 km's, so it shouldn't be the rear transmisssion. One hears it at speeds from 75-90 km/h. The only thing I can think of is rear wheel bearings. I had to change them some 12 000 km's ago, so if it's that,my RM really eats it's bearings at an alarming rate.
Or is it that the Michelin Pilot Sport is a really loud tyre when getting worn? Anyways, I can't just overlook the possibility of a worn out wheel bearing. Why does it always have to happen when I'm up here in Lapland where spare parts don't exactly grow abudantly in trees!
Of course I could ride back south keeping my speed over 140 because then I can't hear the strange noise
There is a thread about this somewhere, it may be the spacer between the bearings is too short.
That's just what I thought, too. I'll have to contend with new bearings for time being and delve into the spacer lenght come next winter. I just found a mechanic with a mc lift, so things are going forward.
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Rode 650 km's up to Lapland today. The engine purrs fine after the last TB sync using the Micha method, getting 5,9 liters/100 km, riding 130-140 km/h. All should be well,BUT:
As a devout Guzzichondriac, I began to hear a new sound, a yawling or whine, from the rear. I have just changed the rear trans oil and added some moly, as I do every 5-6000 km's, so it shouldn't be the rear transmisssion. One hears it at speeds from 75-90 km/h. The only thing I can think of is rear wheel bearings. I had to change them some 12 000 km's ago, so if it's that,my RM really eats it's bearings at an alarming rate.
Or is it that the Michelin Pilot Sport is a really loud tyre when getting worn? Anyways, I can't just overlook the possibility of a worn out wheel bearing. Why does it always have to happen when I'm up here in Lapland where spare parts don't exactly grow abudantly in trees!
Of course I could ride back south keeping my speed over 140 because then I can't hear the strange noise
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Very glad to have made somebody's day, though. With my level of expertise, I'm looking forward to installing a myECU. New stories abound, for shure!
That's good, I was wearing Cliff's patience pretty thin. I will be able to watch while someone else asks the stupid questions / makes stupid mistakes.
Mine's not perfect yet but reached the point where I have closed the lid & no longer take the stock with me as a backup, No going back now that's for sure.
Congratulations
Yep, and that is why I'm still wavering between the myECU and Tuneboy. With Tuneboy, I at least get started with the original map, that is, I can still ride!! Then again, if I wait a coupla months, it'll be snow and ice everywhere and I can start fiddling with the myECU safely inside in a garage, waiting for the next spring...
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This is a useless post by me but, thanks for the laugh guys! It has been the best I have had all day.
It is not to often that Hubert and I agree but in this case i concur.
Today, the ambient temp is 20 on the dot and I have put the dots in their rightful place. TPS reads .!532 V on idle and the engine just purrs. WOT reads 4.9ish.
Very glad to have made somebody's day, though. With my level of expertise, I'm looking forward to installing a myECU. New stories abound, for shure!
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Are you using the stock ECU or MyECU
The latter can be made to work with any TPS mV 1 Volt would be 1020/5 or 204 in the software
Perhaps your ECU has been set to work with 1 Volt.
I cut the wire and added spade connectors at the ECU so I could try offsetting it on the fly. It makes a convenient spot to connect a multimeter.
I still have stock ECU, but worst of all, I still only have my stock brain! Several days of over 35 degrees centigrade have obviously been too much to cope with for a typical Finn, and the brain overcooked.
That 0.98 was VOLTS,which corresponds with .980 milliVolts, far too rich. Well, back to the coalmine, come next morning. That thing with where to put the dots was too much in the heat. I never was good with decimals, but I'm competent at decimating things!
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I decided to test the Micha method,adjusted the valves,opened up the air bleeds 1 full round,balanced the TB's at two thou and added the idle balancing with the bleeds. Then came the TPS setting. Hmmmm, strangely enough, the reading was 4.98 at idle. And I just couldn't get a higher reading, whatever I did with the TPS. Clockwise, anticlockwise, time and time again. After disengaging the meter wires and connecting them again, the TPS reading at idle shows 1.02! At WOT it shows the afore mentioned 5.0?!! When I disconnected the conrod and "choke" and adjusted the TPS to anything between 150 and 250 mV, the engine didn't like running at all???
The engine runs well with the TPS at 1.02, I checked the battery voltage for obvious faulty readings but that was OK. So, am I loosing my mind or am I loosing the TPS or what?
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Mine ... Quiet 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th. Slight whine in 3rd and 6th is loud which being new to Guzzi's was to say the least a bit worrying to start with. Now I just thinks it must be one of the many quirky things I'll have to get used too. Might try the Redline oil though. What about adding Molyslip does that have any effect?
The 6th gear in my RM was louder than the open Mistrals! Adding some Moly didn't have any effect, the whail was still louder than the exhaust. I bought a used box from eBay and have now what I assume to be normal straight cut whine. You can hear it but it doesn't bother, on the contrary!
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Well,after a lot of toing and froing I'm inclined to aquiring a Tuneboy so I don't have to mess with additional wiring and/or boxes.
It is illegal and punishable to mess with the mapping in Finland, even if you only want to get a more even torque curve, so adding another box besides the original is a sure giveaway. Much harder to prove that the original map is slightly altered when everything looks OEM.
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Sounds like R1 not pulling in because of an interlock open
Try putting the bike in NEUTRAL remove R1 and jumper the two large pins by poking a wire in the socket, that bypasses the interlocks and tries to pull the starter solenoid in. If that works look for a fault in R1 coil circuit.
If it doesnt work it's on the contact side.
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15718
One of the contacts in my relay base for R1 wasn't gripping the relay pin at all.
Roy
One of the contacts in the aftermost relay base was extremely loose. It is also worth taking the tank off and checking the connectors of the clutch lever microswitch situated under the tank. They are of the cheap Abiko type and loosen easily, I was told.
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After stopping and killing the engine I suddenly remembered I had forgotten to run an errand and switched on again. Follows the familiar priming of the pump sound, follows pressing the start button. Follows....nothing. Not even a click from starter relay. Pull the clutch and push the button.....silence. Pull the bike upright, sidestand in, clutch in....nothing.
Switch off and on again a couple of times and basta. The RM starts WITH the sidestand DOWN, clutch pulled.
OK, first things first, I'll check the relay base once again, but what then? Incidentally, I didn't have such problems before my moose bang, because the previous owner had dismantled the sidestand switch as well as the clutch microswitch. When rebuilt by the importer's service, they put all the stuff back on. Upside is all new electrics, downside, well....silence.
But at least I got the speedo working again.
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There was at least pictures of a beautiful Moto Guzzi Dondolino, don't know wether it was actually on the track!
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You're about 100 Euro lucky the thing didn't just spit apart! Time for that coat of epoxy to make it permanent!
Rumbling through my things, I found a tube of Super Epoxy which is to be applied liberally on the bottom of the gear casing and basta!
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Also worth checking is the circular metal plate that is staked into the plastic housing. These tend to loosen then, finally, pop off spitting out the contents as Stormsedge has noted. Best to press them in and epoxy as with JB Weld.
There is an identical angle drive on the speedometer end that you should also have a look at. From that end it is easier to extract the cable and be certain it has not become a two-piece unit.
Yep, it was just as you said, the plate was out and the worm gears inside had lost contact. Didn't understand it at first because the plate was visible already when I bought the bike. Having gotten accustomed with peculiar solutions made in Mandello, I couldn't see that the plate had protruded some mils more! It's pressed together now and the speedo works again. Thanks for your input! No doubt there will be more peculiarities in the future, but I can always count on getting support and advice here.
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Ok,the worm gear pickup works per se. I put the lower shaft from the angle gear in the pickup housing and it rotates evenly and doesn't have excessive play. PHEEW! What a relief! No need to dismantle the gearbox.
After inspection I put it all together and did a test run. After 30 metres the speedo needle suddenly dropped to zero again. I measured the height of the lower shaft when dropped into the pickup housing and the depth it needs to sink into the angle gear from below and there it was. It would need a 1.5 mm shim as not to drop so low that it doesn't connect.
I have a similar pickup in the whinig gearbox which I took off from the bike, so I could swap the parts, but I still wonder why the importer advised against taking the worm gear off by myself.
Just found a metal ring from my million-box and it fits as a shim. Now it's the dreaded 50 meter testride once again....
EDIT: the first 50 meters went well, until I stopped reversed and turned around. The speedo needle didn't move after that. I stopped, turned around again and the speedo started playing but suddenly dropped to zero again.
When tested separately with a drill, the speedo works fine even when suddenly stopped. Driven through the angled gear likewise. Putting the lower shaft in the worm gear housing, I couldn't stop it in any way from moving when the driveshaft revolves.
When all these separately working bits are together, see above. Really starts pissing me up, does it!!
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Ok,the worm gear pickup works per se. I put the lower shaft from the angle gear in the pickup housing and it rotates evenly and doesn't have excessive play. PHEEW! What a relief! No need to dismantle the gearbox.
After inspection I put it all together and did a test run. After 30 metres the speedo needle suddenly dropped to zero again. I measured the height of the lower shaft when dropped into the pickup housing and the depth it needs to sink into the angle gear from below and there it was. It would need a 1.5 mm shim as not to drop so low that it doesn't connect.
I have a similar pickup in the whinig gearbox which I took off from the bike, so I could swap the parts, but I still wonder why the importer advised against taking the worm gear off by myself.
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I had the peened "cap" give way on my RM at just about the century mark, resulting in the up gear on the angle falling out somewhere along a long straight back road in Florida. Ordered a replacement angle gear assembly and replaced it...an easy fix. I think it was $80-90USD. No loose bits to fall inside the gearbox that I remember. k
The angle gear is intact and working as I tested it using a drill. It's when it is in place screwed tight to the worm gear pickup housing when the speedo doesn't work. I just hope that when half loose, the rectangular pin might have worn out the corresponding slot in the upper end of the worm gear shaft and nothing is loose inside the box.
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Anybody ever had the worm gear pickup for the speedo bust? The speedo needle suddenly dropped to zero and I found that the collar of theangled gear had loosened itself so I wound it tight on the roadside, but the speedo stayd dead. Back home I tested it with a drill and yes, it works. So there is only the worm gear pickup left.
The importer in Finland advised not to dismantle it for fear of dropping something inside the gearbox, but according to the parts cataloque pictures there shouldn't be any loose parts like shims or whatnot. In the old five speeder, you had that all important small pebble to worry about, but I couldn't see anything like it in the picture of the six-speed gearbox. The thing I'm mostly afraid is wether the rotor has dropped loose in the gearbox.....
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I did some preliminary testing and I think there is more power available in the low rev range than what the stock regs are putting out.
The regulator is a pretty critical item, especially on a trip away there's no reason they should be failing like that.
Roy
Again, in my old LM I, I had an aftermarket reg/rectifier from Silent Hektik which claimed just that: it gave more juice in low revs. The previous owner had had it attached to inside of the generator cover, so being partly of plastic it went and melted! Now it is replaced by a newer version made of metal and works fine. In older big blocks it was commonly known that the factory reg only starts delivering at higher revs.
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no they are break away nuts.. that is once the factory installs them they break the top off as some kind of anti theft idea.. so there are no hex sides.. I had to use a vice grips to get one off after the other one loosend and fell off. you can replace them w/regular nuts (13mm?).
Yep, I put a normal 8x20 bolt in place of the fallen for time being. After I get back from Lapland which is indidentally probably the warmest place in Europe right now with temperatures near 30 deg. centigrade, I will get new break away bolts.
Some English Jap-plastic-bullet oriented mag once came up with only one positive comment on Guzzis, though. They thought that it is the only bike they know that you can leave parked overnight with the ignition key in place and still have the bike in the same place where you left it next morning....
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Don't rule out over voltage,
I have seen some weird effects with my bad regulator, one of them cutting off and on with revs. I suspect there is something in the ECU that causes it to cut out if the regulator is overcharging.
This would be very easy to check, just pull off one of the yellow wires coming from the alternator to regulator thus dissabling it for the test.
As Raz says check the relay bases for tightness, I found one connector in my relay bases not gripping at all, it's well worth spending a couple of hours removing & tightening them up.
Roy
The colleque told me to thank you guys sincerely for all the advice. He went and took the tank and covers etc. off to check and mend the wiring and connections and voltage thorougly.
This goes to show once again how one gets helped round here. Or is it simply because we all are in the same leaking little boat in a huge electric storm called 'Made in Mandello'?
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A fellow Guzzista in the finnish forum is in trouble with his 1100 Sport. After a few km:s the engine suddenly starts sputtering, but only at over 2000 revs! If he keeps the revs below that, the engine runs normally and idles well. After a while the problem dissappears, only to start again a little later.
The battery voltage was measured at 12,8 and a normal charge current.The owner is able to read the failure memory which gives codes 3-3 and 1-6. They are petrol pump cutout and battery voltage failure.
Could someone offer a plausible explanation?...Raz maybe?
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Are the ignition lock bolts normal hex bolts? I seem to have lost one and the other is also loose. Couldn't see properly in the dark.
Edit: Got it already from on-line parts catalog,8x15 hexes.
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Ok, I spent the best part of the weekend tracking down the problem (Intermittent tacho failure), this was a "Red Herring"
I put small lamps across the 12V +/- terminals of the tacho and regulator +reference to ground, these never flickered even when the tacho stopped working.
Measuring the battery voltage at the terminal posts I found it was jumping around anything from 10.5 - 13 with the tacho dropping to zero
each time it was low.
Conclusion - it's the regulator, this has been my gut feeling all along but in the meantime I have been over the whole bike and fixed up
a few loose connections and potential trouble spots so the time wasn't wasted.
I was amazed that the bike will still crank over with battery voltage as low as 10.5 volts, I bought a new one last year and treated it well all winter but i'm
starting to wonder if just one cell is bad.
Roy
It sure is a lot easier with the old LM I,the only electrics being lights and ignition. Very easy to diagnose which you most often have to do anyway because of old wire harness. Something to do come next winter IF my Rosso Mandello holds it together.....
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As you know for the past couple of weeks I have been chasing a elusive fault, battery goes flat, the engine spits and starts every now and then and the tacho occasionally drops to zero, charge light comes on randomly.
This evening I strapped my multimeter to the tank and connected to the two red wires from the regulator, the negative terminal I put under one of the radiator screws.
I expected to see the battery charging but to my surprise the voltage would jump from 12-15-10-13 all over the map.
even with the voltage showing 9.5 Volts the bike cranked over easy.
From this I have deduced that I have a bad ground somewhere, probably Negative to Chassis, this would explain at least the charging and tacho, hopefully the missing also.
I suggest you check your ground to engine and to the chassis, perhaps add another between engine and Chassis
Hope this helps
Roy
I had the same experience plus the tacho and lights went dead. Voltage was anything between 9.8 and 18.6 V. The culprit was a loose connection at relay base under relay n:o 2. Roy has posted an excellent pic of how you remedy that. Not a hitch afterwords (knocks on head, err wood).
Mystical TPS readings
in Technical Topics
Posted
Nothing mystical about it now, the fuel consumtion dropped noticeably and the engine is sweet. If only there weren't the rear wheel bearing(s?) howling......