lemppari
-
Posts
135 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by lemppari
-
-
Whew! I forgot what a long thread that was! I found this for an answer: Raz's summation. :
"I'd just say try the pinned How-to and if it don't work out good, try Micha's method instead. Or the other way round if you wish. Probably one of them (or both) will produce a nice running bike."
Also, Ryland noted that low battery voltage could contribute to frustrating variations in results .( Now, I'm paraphrasing . . .)
To sum it up, it seems that the bleeds i.e. bypasses do not have a noticeable impact beyond idle, so any hiccuping at low to medium revs has to be corrected by altering the mixture, which translates to altering the standard map. PC it is, then.
-
do you still have the stock cross over on?
Yep, didn't want an overly loud bike. If I want sound, I take my LM I for a spin.
-
Your reasoning sounds valid to me but I'm not sure it will make enough difference. The bleeders are really tiny compared to even a small amount of butterfly opening. Trying it is cheap of course, so why not?
I guess the Right ThingTM would be to check/reset the mixture setting (CO trim or whatever it's called) in the ECU. It's a pity you can't do that yourself without buying a semi expensive tool.
That's the problem with me, I still think Dell'Orto way. With carbs, your idle circuit affects how the engine runs above idle, too. Well, I'll just as well phone a friend who does dyno and PC jobs.
-
Got bike back from MG dealer.They replaced Rectifier/regulator with an after market one. All go now but its now sometimes not starting due to bad connections in relay block.Any suggestions how to fix?
I had the same symptoms in my RM two years back and traced them back to N.o 2 relay and specifically the female connectors underneath. I just bent the middle of the 'spade' inward with a small screwdriver and voilá, no problems with the electrics ever since. (Knocks his head..er..wood)
-
I'm not sure what you mean by TPS at 245mV.
The two standards are fully closed plate at 150 mV (+/- 10 mV) and idle at 5.10-5.35 (some like it higher).
Where are you setting the 245mV?
Fully closed. When I bought the bike, it had torque from idle to top with a poor mileage and when measured, the TPS was set at 420 fully closed. After changing to Mistrals, I set it at 150 mV, resulting in an excellent mileage (appr.5 liters/100 km instead of 7,5-8), but poor and erratic running below 3200 revs. After gradually raising the TPS setting I ended up with 245.
Now I get a reasonable mileage but as I wrote, the coughing is disturbing when engine braking below 2000 and opening up.I know I'm probably running with a slightly thin mixture because of the better breathing and it would be wise to put the bike through a dyno test, but the symptoms got me to think wether it would be feasible to get a richer mixture below 2000 by closing the bypasses a tad.
-
Ok, I've opened up the intake following instructions on the site, and I've changed the original pipes for open Mistrals. The bike runs surprisingly well otherwise, but for a small hitch:
Slowing down to a crossing with engine braking, if the revs fall under 1900, the engine starts coughing when on throttle again. That got me thinking that would it be something only a Power Commander can remedy because the mixture is obviously on thin side, or do the bleeds or bypasses in TB:s still play a role? Would turning them tighter a bit help in getting a slightly richer mixture between idle and 2000 revs?
The valve clearances and TB balance are OK, TPS is set at 245 mV because under that, the engine ran poorly.
-
When I bought my Rosso Mandello from Gemany and rode it home to Finland, the front wheel bearings went bust in southern Sweden. The culprit is said to be a slightly too long spacer tube in front wheel.
Next summer I was on my way back home from Italy when the rear wheel bearings broke in northern Germany. This time it was the spacer tube that is slightly too long in the rear wheel.
Well done, Mandello!!!
Considering I was heading back to Finland both times, it is also possible that the bike simply does not like it up here!
-
That is not a bad beginners guide, but there is an error in the part about sag vs spring rate.
"Once you have set your rider sag as close as possible to 30-40 mm, next check your static sag. If you have more than 10mm then you may need stiffer springs. If however, if your static sag is less than 5mm or you have no static sag then your springs may be too hard for your weight. "
Both scenarios say your springs are too stiff. It should say if you have too much static sag then you need softer springs. If you do not have enough then you need stiffer springs.
"Rider" sag is also called "race" sag.
Also worth pointing out is that preload does not effect spring rate unless you have progressive springs. Adding or subtracting preload with normal straight rate springs does not change the "softness" of the spring.
So, you say that if my bike drops too much, I should change to SOFTER? Not in my lifetime, not!
-
YESYESYESYESSS! Just home from a 100 km testrun. The gearbox works perfectly and most importantly, the sixth gear does not win the noise competition between it and exhaust......In fact, what with the wind, exhaust and more open intake, I just couldn't hear any noise from the sixth.
Otherwise, riding a motorbike for the first time this spring was as dull and stupid as it usually is........
I'm still hovering near the ceiling!
-
No indication looking at the old gearbox what could have been the trouble?
If your 'new' gearbox is a 2002, consider keeping a spare shift spring on hand . . .
Haha, thinking about that I almost switched the gearchange covers! Amids a big turmoil in everyday life I haven't had time to open up the original Pandora's box yet, let alone service the wife's Nevada.
Guessing from the fact that the mixture was set really rich (TPS 420 mV with everything srewed out and unconnected!) I would suspect that the previous owner liked to trundle along slowly in high gear and hack the teething in the process?
Could be a wise move to stash a few springs in the toolbox, though.....
-
It does have the original electric petcock, but would that failure cause the sputtering, backfiring, slow coughing symptoms?
The fuel pump does start up when the key turns on, but i did notice that it sounded pretty weak and squeaky when I took the bike off the trailer 1 hour after the breakdown. But the next day it was strong and worked.
As for a TPS failure and throttle body balance, to be honest that procedure sounds a bit like witchcraft to me. 2 years ago I increased the idle a couple hundred RPM by turning the idle screw, but that is all that I've messed with on the throttle bodies. Could a TPS failure, or unbalanced TBs cause a breakdown like this? I would think that it would just cause poor running, not stopping. (p.s. my tach broke again 10 miles into that same ride, so i can only guess what the idle revs are)
But I'm willing to try anything.
What has me most irritated about this is that even if I replace the petcock, balance the TBs, fiddle w/ the relays, etc... I still wont be confident that I've fixed the problem, and wont want to go more than a mile from home, uphill only.
When I had relay problems, the first to go was the tach, every time, followed by other eery symptoms. It turned out to be a poor connection in the socket. After bending the connectors a little to get better contact I haven't had the bike miss a beat.
-
Done in two hasty, overly long days this weekend. My Rosso Mandello has had a really loud sixth gear as long as I've had the bike, even louder than the open Mistrals at speed. So, when the bike was being repaired by the MG official importer after my second collision with a moose a year ago, I asked for the price of a gearbox job. They estimated a sum of 3500 euros.....
Well you guessed it, no deal at THAT price. Then I looked for the price of the parts, only. That would have been 800e or thereabouts at Stein+Dinse. I dared not ask for the price in Finland because of the above! So, out to hunt in eBay for a gearbox.
Found one, too. Alleged kilometreage 8 000 and I got it for 490,- plus postage. Looked decent when opening the package, all gears engaged when I tested before assembly. It took some time to think through the box change and even more doing it. While at it, I did the Phil A. airbox conversion at the same time and the normal stuff one should do every now and then, oil change and such like.
No liquid leaks, the smoke inside the wiring harness didn't escape either. The bike started on the button and sounded normal.It's still snowing intermittently whilst writing this, so I haven't had a chance to test the gearbox in speed.
So now it's time to connect a power commander and then some dyno runs at our local Bike-Doctor and enjoy riding through the volcanic ash clouds the Icelanders very nicely donated us for the coming summer.
-
Try a combination of glossy and matt black bodywork with those gold trimmings you already designed. The eagle would look really cool on black. A friend of mine has a Nightrod in glossy/matt black and the combo looks good in nature.
-
We should already have a nice winter weather up here, few degrees minus and dry with a little snow. Instead, it's fiveish above zero, grey, damp, miserable constant rain. Reminds me actually of some gloomy films depicting future. SO IT'S HERE ALREADY!!!
-
What a bike! I'd take it rightaway just as it is! Now this is taking Ye Goode Olde Watt's Steam Engine and updating it to this Millenium! And I think the middle fairing is needed to cool things down a bit...
-
Fit is just about the only thing that matters when I choose a helmet. After my last encounter with a moose, I went through and tested every modular helmet been sold here. Schubert was the one and only helmet which left enough space in front of nose and mouth, all others kept pressing against my face. Talk about a neanderthal skullform!
The only negative detail I've found so far with the helmet is the ridiculous small tabs which should signal a secure closing of the jaw piece. A totally needless piece of gadgetry which doesn't even work half the time. Otherwise, it has avery good venting and it's quiet considering it being a modular but I still use earplugs.
-
OK Hubert, just what I thought. The reason for that question is I'm trying to conjure something neater than the horrible Hepco&Becker standard luggage rack cum pannier...ummm...thing which looks bloody awful when riding without the hard cases.
H&B offers neat quick release side kits to newer models and I thought I could add some attatchment points to a simple clean rack and do some welding and winding pipes to comform my existing side carrier kit to it.
Only I'm not sure whether the Stucchi rack is sturdy enough and I haven't seen any other ready made products for the Elfe offered here in Europe.
-
fn cool!
Hubert
That luggage rack doesn't look like any commercial product I've seen so far?
-
You can't go too loud if you only change the cans and leave the OE crossover in place. I have a pair of open carbon Mistrals behind the stock crossover and it resulted in a beautiful, deep tone without being overly loud.
When I'm in the mood for loud, I'll take my LM I with open bellmouth Dell'Ortos and Lafranconi Competitione pipes for a spin. Wakes the dead, that is seriously LOUD!!! Nice to ride through small villages early in the morning.
-
As there is no way of dialing in the preload in the Marzes, where do the spacers go in a USD fork?
-
The valves should be replaced every 30 K or so, otherwise they will snap and destroy the head. Other than that, it's a delight to ride and really fast on a curvy road. There aren't that many tires to choose between nowadays, they being 16 inchers.
-
Was sad to see Eric's message in Buell homepage. I've never been a huge fan, but it is sad that the parent company won't do other than oldfashioned ironmongery. And the XR is certainly not even near as a sportsbike to a Buell!
-
Nope, but have you guys seen this?:
http://www.ghezzi-brian.com/video/Ghezzi_presentazione1.mov
And it's available as a kit!
-
V11 Rosso Mandello
Le Mans I
Dreaming of a Ducati Desmo 350
, preferably and definitely a -71 in red and silver, and everyone should have one Airone Sport. In real world, the wife is pressing hard to make me sell one or the other of the existing bikes. Is there a place in eBay to put a wife for sale? 
Henri
P.S. Triton....Mmmmmm...
Bypass or PC?
in Technical Topics
Posted
Hmmmmmm....Oddly enough I've ridden some 500 km in these last two days with no rough running or hiccups and getting a decent mileage of 40 miles/US gal. One begins to wonder if the PC is worth the money and effort....