Greybeard
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Posts posted by Greybeard
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Anyone have experience with these products?
http://www.motogadget.com/us/frameset.html
Especially that "M/unit". "Completely replaces the fuse panel, etc., etc."
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About mid-way along the QR assembly you'll find a metal tab.
Pull that straight away at a 90 degree angle from the plastic QR and you'll be able to separate the connector.
When reassembling, a light wipe of silicone grease on the O ring will keep it from tearing.
Dunno about your plastic fuel line but I'll bet it'd fit neatly up the nose of the mechanic who did the recall work.
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Thanks docc.
At least now I know my heart is pure and in the right place.
Anyone have experience with these folks? http://www.motogadget.com/us/frameset.html
The "m-unit" looks intriguing.
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Not being blessed with a comprehension of things electrical I'm wondering if there is a pressing or even legitimate need to crowd 3 ground cables directly to the battery?
Can't 2 of them ground to the frame?
How about a remote gang terminal?
Ditto the + side as well.
I should add, the cable ends were all quite furry.
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Never mind!
I just did a search and see that's been flogged like a rented mule.
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Put it behind the lamp. Somewhere there in front. When I bought my bike it was mounted there. They've been using a small alu bracket for that. IIRC the wire had to be made longer for that. And it was mounted freely.
Hubert
And nothing to protect the little pepito then?
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How much of the bell mouth did you cut off the air intake horns?
Leave as much as possible or the length of this has no affect?
Just enough to clamp the filter on I'm sure but ...juuuust checking <_>
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Especially you lot who've mounted K&N's!
Er...well...I'm mounting K&N's so no air box, no temp sensor mount.
However, scanning the available real estate I noticed the top shock mount with an approximately 1" hole in the bracket and I'm thinking I'd machine up a small cup with some vent holes in it, mount the sensor in the cup and set the cup in that hole in the bracket.
I wouldn't make a vent on the back of the cup so the sensor wouldn't be hit by schmeg kicked up from the rear tire.
Nice, cozy, tidy.
So? Ya reckon?
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Well, I must have done something correctly as my machine accelerates like a violated simian!
Enough to entertain me anyway.
Idles nicely, accelerates smoothly, rails & rips as well as can be expected.
This winter, when I cure the engine case acne I'll sort out the synch shaft once & for all, check the valves just for the hell of it, fabricate a new cross-over mount as it's vibratin' against the pipes and then find out what the soft "woo-woo-woo-woo" from the rear was when I came down the driveway.
Probably just the rear brake.
Thanks to all for guidance on this process!
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No...this bike is just a full on bitch and we're about ready to go around, she and I.
I mean to kick her square in the ass, slap her for crying then send her back to her momma in Italy.
No, actually, I think I've got it sorted.
Except I feel I had to turn the white knob excessively to get balance, but.....maybe not. Maybe it really only ended up to be about 1 turn in. Bad day for arthritis.
Went back & forth between the left idle screw and air bypass screws a couple of times to get 1200 rpm and .521mV but I got it.
Too cold to ride so I'll check Sunday. Supposed to be near 70 here.
Time for a new VOM too.
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There are 2 DC scales to read on my admittedly inexpensive meter that are marked 2000m and 200m.
Those are the only 2 that give me any reading seemingly appropriate.
The DC volt scales are 20, 200 and then 2000.
I'm using the correct scale then?
Anyway, I didn't get a chance to check idle voltage tonight because the battery crapped.
I don't think this bike likes me.
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In my experience with only my bike setting the idle TPS to about 525-535mV was much more important than the 150mV baseline setting. When I started with the 150 baseline setting I couldn't get the idle setting anywhere near 530, and the bike was way too lean and ran lousy. I posted my problem here and Mr Bean responded with a different approach that the lead mechanic at Moto International uses to set the TPS. Once I used this method my bike ran great even though the baseline TPS is now at 250mV.
You can read about it here if you want.
This is becoming most curious.
I was able to lock in at 151mv closed, but wide open would not go any higher than 480+ a few.
It would zero out easily but never saw anywhere near 500.
I'll look again to see if anything is in the way but I doubt it.
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And I owe RH a 1/2 apology.
My white knob is NOT moving on the threads as it surely should be!
It will be when I get back to it, but right now it's frozen solid as well.
This will never do.
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Heh....not sure I CAN leave it alone now!
Ok, let's see.. I guess really from where it is now, all I need do is balance everything up, "set it and forget it".
But, since I do know what the number is now, wouldn't hurt to see what 150mv feels like, would it?
I can always set it back.
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Hi!
Yes...idle screws backed off, choke cam clear, key on, engine off, throttle connecting shaft free.
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Thank you!
I haven't had a chance to check it at idle.
I found two female bullet connectors next to the ECU which I thought were spliced in to the TPS wiring but all I got from that was a static reading of 154 I think it was.
But that reading didn't change as I moved the throttle.
I then inserted 2 pins as shown on Greg Bender's site and that's where I got the readings I previously mentioned.
I'll see if I can get a reading tomorrow.
Thanks again.
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(you should check your baseline 150 mV reading too, and write it down)
The 382 was the baseline.
This was on the 2000m scale of my VOM.
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What might explain my TPS reading 382 closed and 4.81 WOT?
Could it have anything to do with the PClll?
"No" I'm thinking but ya gotta ask these things.
I have not touched the TPS other than to insert the pins to take the readings.
(At first I thought the empty bullet connecters I found next to the ECU were splices to take the TPS reading as I saw in a thread somewhere but when the reading didn't move as I worked the throttle I knew that was wrong)
TPS setting seriously buggered or ?
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Oh hell, trust me, I'm here to learn alright!
I'll hang on every word.
I just haven't done well transitioning to the electronic age and it frustrates the beJesus out of me.
Sometimes I need things explained 2-3 different ways before it makes sense.
And of course I keep forgetting; The motorcycle she's Italian
Keep talking, I'll listen.
All you'll hear is a deep growl of miscomprehension every now & then.
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Yes.
Yes I am looking for a consensus opinion.
Excuse me. I did not recall you already said that.
Since the bikes are called Moto Guzzi's and not "Ratchethacks" I naturally sought other, perhaps even more experienced answers.
This is my first attempt so a simple "yes" would have sufficed.
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Multi-carb and multi-TB motors always provide a way to set idle at each instrument. Many procedures call for measuring the height of the throttle slides or butterfly opening to the bore with a feeler gauge, and setting each idle screw accordingly. One of the Guzzi procedures calls for this. On many motors, this is more of a necessity for accuracy. On twins, the synch task is greatly simplified over multi's, and it's not so necessary -- as long as there's not too much slop in the linkage.
But, again, in this application it's redundant as Raz pointed out?
Only the factory uses it?
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You leave it backed off. Maybe the How-To should state this more clearly as this comes up several times a year.
THANK YOU!
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Thanks gents.
Now back to one of the original questions.
If you back off the idle screw on the right side as the instructions say, when in the sequence do you re-adjust?
I quote;
("Disconnect the synchronization rod at the ball joint on the right side (the side with the TPS sensor), back off the right throttle idle screw using a 2.5mm hex key, and back off the "choke" cam (make sure the choke cable permits full retraction of the cam (it didn't on my bike). )
Would seem to me if you have a solid throttle shaft between the 2 throttle bodies, one of those idle set screws has to be redundant.
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Mechanically, something is not jiving there, RH.
Why would the end that you apply a locknut to and would want secured (the RHS, because of not being certain of depth of engagement in the swivel end fitting) be the end that you look to revolve for adjustment?
Conversely, the left end with the 4 lobe adjustment wheel, passes through a block that's not threaded (on the bell crank of the left throttle body) and the white 4 lobe wheel is not staked but turns in & out freely on the threaded shaft end?
No, the shaft is stationary while you turn the white knob.
Thread size
in Technical Topics
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As indicated, does anyone know what size the threaded fittings are for the frame breather system?
They're like large brake line banjo fittings and one is directly in front of the fuel tank.