Greybeard
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Posts posted by Greybeard
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Thank you gents.
I've discovered by the old "hold 2 drum sticks" method that my wrists naturally fall into a 5-6" pullback but the reach over the tank puts the devil into the mix here.
And I'd rather keep the bars to as low a rise as physiologically possible for myriad reasons I won't bore you with, but not conflict with the tank either.
Darn difficult to just eyeball these things as well and try to make an educated guess.
If it ever stops raining long enough perhaps I can get out and see other bars in the flesh!
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From those who've changed to regular handlebars, what sort of rise and pullback do your risers and bars have?
Pictures or links thereto would help tremendously.
TIA.
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Good God yes!
Sorry, I was thinking about something else and NOT thinking about what I was typing.
Wasn't making full contact there at all.
Trust me I'm not normally that distracted.
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Ya know gentlemen, science is a bitch in that if you focus small enough you'll definitely miss the big picture.
I would have greater fear of the threads stripping out of the ALUMINUM ALLOY wheel lonnnnnng before I'd sweat about 6 stainless bolts simultaneously failing in shear.
Go.
Polish. Ride. Repeat.
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Join the club Mark. Many here have a split personality:
Sure freaks people out when you hoon in to a stop then pull off you helmet.
"Mommy, he's OLLLLLD!"
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Thank you, gentle people.
By virtue of the fact that my legs (and concomitantly, the remainder of me) are rather short, I've had to develop certain self-preservation techniques with regards to starting and slow maneuvering of motorcycles.
Clutch in regardless.
Perfect balance when reaching for the side stand.
Obsessively check side stand is up .
I can only get one foot down at a light so don't pull to the right hand side at a stop light risking putting one's foot off the pavement and dropping one's 1988 H-D FXR on it's side while your riding partner laughs his fool head off, sonofab***h
But, I was blessed with the results of hours in the gym and can lift the bike efficiently if not effortlessly....still, there is face to save, eh?
I digress...thank you again and I'll bridge the connecter.
It'll help lighten the bike.
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Hell of a deal with this fuel tank expanding, semingly just from 2 days ago when I took it off!
Thought I was goin' nuts this afternoon.
Couldn't line up the hole at all.
And I see you've all pretty much experienced this phenomenon?
I'll toss a few Avodart in to see if it'll shrink the tank...hopefully better than it's working for me
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Normally open or closed?
(too late & lazy to unplug it and get out my meter)
I just noticed that mine has been defeated by the absence of the litle gubbin on the stand that activates the plunger.
Might just as well unplug it but wondering if I need to bridge the connecter.
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You are allowed to ride in other gears than 6th you know. 5000 rpm may not be the preferred cruising rpm for long relaxed rides, but it is pretty far from red line and I often ride more or less constantly in third gear (that's the 1:1 gear on my five speed) on curvy smallish roads. The engine sings at 5000 rpm, I believe it's happiest at that speed.
We must live in very similar areas topographically.
I ride in northwest CT, west Mass and east New York states.
If the road is straight for longer than 100 yards either you're on the highway or you've gone too far and ended up in Pennsylvania.
3rd and 4th gear are perfect for these roads and bouncing off the limiter is no sin.
I merely thought it unusual that max output would be at such a relatively high rpm.
Testy bunch over here, eh?
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Mmm, sounds weird. That thing should be charging about 2k RPM's?
I just read the specs on the alternater.
350 watts @ 5000 revs.
"I'm just charging my battery, officer!
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Face north.
Drop your trousers - both sets
Wait for a particularly bright Aurora Borealis.
Grasping a bottle of Nastro Azzura between your buttocks, sing the Italian national anthem. In Latin.
The last point is particularly important.
Here...hold the flashlight for me mate, my eyes are failing
MIND! NOT SO CLOSE!!!
Ok, here goes. "Frater of Italy , Italy has suscitatio ; Scipio's galea is has inicio suus caput capitis....SIC!!", like that.
So what'd I win?
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Only reason I can think of is that if you have your tank off and back on as many times as I have for air filter and other service, you'll want enough extra hose so you can cut off the end near the FPR when it gets ragged. (I've done it several times now.) It's not that they routed it around the spark plug wire & head temp sensor wires -- someone re-installed it that way.
WRT routing, I'd first thought to keep it as far away from the head as possible to avoid the dreaded Summer Vapor Lock. But since this is the return line to the tank, no matter. No need for any shielding either.
Thanks hack.
It's just untidy and that bugs me.
Not tidy at all, dammit.
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Sorry but I gotta ask, did you do the throttle stuff while the fuse was out? How did the ECU even know what you were doing if it had no power. Just trying to understand.
No, I misspoke if I described it in that manner.
As pulled from the pages of the R1150R forum;
"by NoRRmad on Fri Mar 06, 2009 2:15 pm
...Disconnecting the battery discharges the settings in the Motronic computer. They will recover over time as the computer "learns" the throttle settings. To reset the computer immediately, pull fuse number 5, reinsert it, switch the bike on, but do not start it, roll the throttle to full-on twice, then engage the "fast idle" lever, and start it up."
I've opted for Paul's method anyway.
Grappa per tutti!!
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...why I can't shorten the hose that goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the right injector?
They've routed it all the way out & around the spark plug wire and the wire to the sensor in the right cyclinder head.
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Mine is listed as a 2003 and has Veglia gauges.
Veglia's here as well. <_>
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What BMW did you have? What symptoms did you experience after disconnecting the battery? What did you do to "reset" the computer?
I had a 'o4 R1150R.
I experienced total freakin' darkness.
Re-read post #3
I didn't have any problem and to this day I'll assume because when I first bought the BMW I went on the forum and read all the hub-bub about a procedure to follow when disconnecting and reconnecting the battery to avoid or alleviate some problem with the ECU or TPS..
The ritual cost nothing and consumed precious little time to peform, so I did it.
For all I know, every R1150R owner on the planet was pee'in themselves knowing that I was out there yanking fuzes and such. I like a good joke too so I couldn't care less.
I merely wanted to know IF the MG cogniscenti had a similar procedure, valid or not.
IF NOT then let's just move along.
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And thank you for your interest.
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With the ECU fuse removed it would not get inputs from the sensors to understand zero or wide open.
I know some Volvo automobiles lose ALL info in the ECU if the car loses power or battery is disconnected.It has to go back to dealership to be reprogrammed.
if this procedure worked for you, do it!
Hey, what can I say?
I'm not the author of this procedure, I'm just passing on information and asking if there's any equivalent mumbo-jumbo that applies to MG V11's.
Search on "reset" in the R1150R site and tell them they're FOS.
I'm just trying to find all the hidden, DaVinci secret handshakes that keep these things running.
So...can I simply disconnect and reconnect my battery without fear of waterboarding the ECU?
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Could you explain "reset"? Would the bike not start,did it run poorly,etc. ?
Some claimed it wouldn't run well if you disconnected the battery and didn't do the following; remove the fuze to the ECU, turn the ignition to "On", turn the throttle WFO a couple of times, shut off key and replace fuze. Supposedly instructs the ECU via TPS just where wide open is.
Might just be touching wood or tossing salt but I did it and never had a problem.
Motronics. Go figure.
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The BMW I just sold required that the ECU be reset after disconnecting the battery.
Any such drill with the V11?
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Based on the VIN translation it is an '03 then.
I'm having a ball on it regardless!
Thanks for the info.
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Oh, good.
More dosh for goodies then
Ta!
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I've been trying to absorb as much info here as possible about my alleged '03 and think I found the answer.
First off, some '02's were sold as '03's? Is that correct?
All my paper work says '03 but I've got the chin rest on the tank and external fuel pump.
So '02, right?
Then does this mean there are '03 and up technological upgrades I must covet?
Bloody hell.
Need to set this right.
And...this bike has Mistral cans, somebodies crossover and a USB PClll.
I notice the vacuum line off the fuel regulator... but that's no big deal?
And no air box mods that I can see.
I do like the seperate pods though.
Any thing to beware of when lifting the tanK? I need to locate and reposition the tipover valve to allevaite tank burp.
Ripped one right in my face.
Might's well rip out what's left of the carbon can on the swing arm...what's the drill on that?
Just plug all the associated ports?
TIA!
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I got mine and never took them out of the bubble wrap.
Hey nuevototem, try this if you want something a bit different:
http://sportcyclepacific.com/featureditems.htm
At the current exchange rate, they are not too high priced.
Not trying to jack the thread but just wondering if anyone is running the velocity stack setup shown on that site?
Wiring woes...
in Technical Topics
Posted
Purchased the official "Eraldo Ferracci Signature License Plate Relocation Kit" featuring the "Fire of Vesuvius" LED tail light, bolted eveything up OK and then I plugged it in.
(Had to change the connectors but what the hell)
Nothing. Nada. Zip.
Switch wires around.
Zilch.
Get out the test light.
Juice coming out the proper wires at the proper time for the proper function. <_>
WTF?
Before I call Ferracci and raise hell, is there any secret to getting LED tail lights to work?