Punch

As Hubert wrote, at the headlight would be a sensible place. There should be "spare capacity" in the headlamp fuse/wires for what is probably quite a low current. You will need a supply that is always on when the ignition is on, so I suggest that you use the pilot/parking globe wire. Cut the positive wire where it will be out of the weather. Strip the insulation off the two ends. Twist them together and crimp them into one end of a FEMALE bullet connector. Then crimp the instrument positive cable into a matching Male bullet connector. Do the same for the negative, except put the female connector to the bulb negative wire and the male to the wire that heads off to battery negative. Alternatively you can add a dedicated circuit. Battery + to an in line fuse, then to common terminal (30) of a relay. Then from normally open terminal (87) of the relay to the + of the gauges. Connect negative terminal (85) of the relay coil to battery -. Connect positive terminal (86) of the relay coil to anything in the fuse box that is always powered when the ignition is on. Connect this relay coil + to the fused side of the fuse box. This means when the ignition is on, the relay closes and provides power to the gauges. Richard

That's a lovely schematic, Roy. I, however, am a complete rube when it comes to the training of the magic smoke, so can you do another schematic showing how to wire the relays so that the low beam stays on as well when hi beam is selected? If the road is dark enough to require high beams, it's dark enough to have both filaments burning... TIA Below is a link to a consolidation of various posts I did on a Ducati forum, as I own a Duc and did this to mine. Do not be daunted, it is really very simple to do. I can't attach it as it is exceeds the file attachment allowance. Clicking on the link will start the download immediately - about 370kb. https://files.me.com/yellowducati/gennzt The major issue is that there is often a big voltage drop between the battery and headlight resulting in lower than ideal Voltage at the headlight resulting in much less light output. On page 1 you will see a chart of roughly how much light you get for a particular voltage at the bulb. I had over 2 Volts loss which meant 30% loss of light output !!!!!!! Mine is now very bright with a standard bulb. If you want to know more about "superbright" bulbs etc. go to danielsternlighting.com, then Tech, then Bulbs Adding a diode - if the fuse blew due to a short, then the same high current will flow through the diode and probably blow it as well. 5 or so amps through a diode would probably also require a heatsink and the diode would add 0.7 V loss. Richard

I don't know of him, but this may help, depending on what you have to do to your seat. The vinyl on my 900SS Duc seat was stuffed. I took it to T Wall and Sons in Orchard Road, Brookvale. They recovered my seat, plus more padding and custom colours and pinstriping to my "specifications" Many years ago now, but it was AUD$250 and looks superb. Richard

Looks like the My15M Cliff supplied to me was A0 version. We modded the PCB to switch from pin 19 to pin 15 to suit the A8 config that my bike needed. Attached is a list of what the A8 pins do. The link is to wiring diag that I "coloured in" to make life easier for tracing things on my Duc. Too big to attach. http://files.me.com/yellowducati/1ta370 Does anyone have a wiring diag or a pin list for an A0 bike they could post. It might be as simple as moving some wires in the harness to connector to convert an A0 to an A8 and vice versa. A friend's 98 900SSie may have a dead 15M A0 so we are trying to sort testing and maybe using an A8 as A0 are hard to find in Australia for a 900. Richard Marelli 15M A8 connector pins.pdf

Apparently to 98/99 Ducs used the 15M with a code A0 on it. Later models A8 Some info sent to me states that there is a difference in the wiring harness to the fuel pump and the type of pressure sensor used. Pressure sensor type is not an issue as it is PCB mounted and the EEPROM would have been programmed to suit. This is probably why MyECU instructions provide different mV options to put in the text file. Fuel pump should not be an issue, just shift cables. Maybe you have been lucky in that the Duc versions were of a version that matched your V11. Richard

From memory and the text "" "" below from emails on my 2001 900SS the pins were different to MG. I gave up as I spent somewhere between hours and hundreds of hours on this, then bought TuneBoy and was able to start from the original Ducati map and then play. Very happy and thoroughly recommend. One of many emails quoted below "From what I can see, pin 19 is connected to the starter relay and start button. So the ECU is just giving a "good to go" signal. The other side of the pin 19 connection is +12V and pin 19 pulls to ground. I think we can disconnect pin 19 inside the ECU by cutting the track to T7 AND the track to D2 near VR1. Then connect D2 to T7 collector and this to pin 15. Then connect pin 19 to gnd."

These are front and rear pics of My15M. Ignore the black wire - this was to make it suit the pins for a 2001 Duc 900SSie. Rear shows the 2 inductors at the top - they look like resistors. Rear also shows caps location.

This attachment shows the TP and rev points downloaded from the Ducati Performance 15M in my Duc 900SSie (2001) TP is shown in degrees as Duc and MG throttles (Marelli/Weber ecus/tp sensors) go up to 80 degrees. The TP sensor has a bias (more accuracy) from 2.6 or so to 30 degrees, which is where our bikes probably spend most of their time, unless WOT. You can convert degrees to voltages and then to 0 to 1024 (binary stuff the ecu wants to see) from a post earlier by Raz on how to convert. As per the EcuController maps you set TPS for "zero" closed. DP_throttle_angles_and_rev_breaks.pdf

Hi there, if you do a log, send the file to me, either before or after using the EcuController diagnostics button and I will strip it down to an Excel file with data from each text line in individual Excel cells. This way you can rearrange or hide columns so you can then analyse to your hearts content. Attachment shows the steps I go through. Logging_info_for_V11_MyEcu.pdf

Does anyone use the logging and diagnostic tools? If so, I have developed an Excel workbook to convert the prased text file via a couple of steps to all the data in individual cells for analysis, etc. I would call it a Beta version as i am the only one to have tested it. If anyone is interested, they can send an email to punch@bigpond.net.au and i will send a copy for you to try/test. Be warned, it is about 2.7Mb and it contains Macros, which must be enabled for it to work. It comprises a few sheets with step by step instructions in the first sheet. I don't know if there are differences between EcuController versions and the parsed text file from "diagnostics". I am using EcuControl143.exe Richard That's all. Not really impressive once you have done it sometimes. In fact boring a bit. Because now you have such a huge amount of information that you have to be a good excel hero or a good script, pearl or whatever programmer to get behind all these numbers. Its a bit difficult because very seldom you'll have information for exact cells, and if so then in most cases only for a short moment. I guess some statistical excel knowledge won't hurt. A short 2 minutes preview is uploaded here (picture only, sorry): Hubert

I did Physics at Uni in the very distant past and whilst I dislike thermodynamis, I still remember a bit. Cliff's air temp corrections are correct. the Ideal Gas Law referred to in the code - is PV = nRT, where P is pressure in atmospheres, V is volume, n can be treated as the amount of O2, R is a constant and T is temperature in Deg Kelvin, not Deg C. Forget the R, so the amount of gas n is proportional to PxV/T Volume is fixed by the capacity of the cylinder, so n is proportional to P/T I.e if the temperature goes up, the gas expands and there are less molecules. Similarly if P goes up there are more molecules. This table below compares my calcs using Deg K to show that Cliff is spot on Deg K 243 253 263 273 283 293 298 303 313 323 Deg -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 MyECU 24.7 19.8 15.2 11 7.1 3.4 1.7 0 -3.2 -6.2 Richard 24.7% 19.8% 15.2% 11.0% 7.1% 3.4% 1.7% 0% -3.2% -6.2% Atmospheric pressure is just the weight of a column of air between the bike and the limit of earth's atmosphere which is being pulled by gravity. When you go up a tall mountain, there is less air above and therefore less pressure. This is the pressure line in My15M MyECU Cfg Pressure=250mV,120mB,4200mV,1060mB The change in O2 will be linear with pressure - eg double the pressure and you double the amount of O2, so you would need to double the fuel.

Yes it does work, because you are saving a text (ecu) file to your computer. What happens in the MyECU cannot leap across the ether and change the text file you saved. I have not looked, but luhmo may be correct about what is actually stored in MyECU. The thing is that if you have a structured approach to your saved files and # notes it will make life easier when you try to remember what and why you did something. This was not meant to create discussion, just a point of info so you don't lose track of your changes and outcomes.

Keeping track of changes - maybe for the "manual" or FAQs I am sure the veterans know this, but there are novices as well. In the XXX.ecu file lines that start with # are notes/comments in the file and not used by the ECU. This means you can add notes to the file on what change etc. you did. I have started deleting many original lines with # as I do not need these notes anymore. I don't know what file size the EEPROM can store, which is why I delete stuff I know, to leave space for my WIP - work in progress notes. This way I do not have to find the bit of paper that I wrote on about what I changed for the particular map. Richard

Just tried TDC1 to fire at TDC - it would NOT start and was igniting in pipes. 20 C oil temp, 18 C air temp. Changed to TDC0 to fire from map which is 8 degrees and it started immediately. Both with less prime for my 900 Duc as per this line. #Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125 Prime 25 25 21 16 14 10 9 7 6 6 5 4

In my 900SSie I reduced prime by about 20% based approcimately upon 900cc/1100cc and it starts very well and with spark from map, not TDC. I will reset to spark at TDC to see if it is still OK. This is the bottom sector of the map for 500, 1100 and 1500 rpm. Air temp here is around 20 C at the moment InjDur 02 4640 2400 2240 InjDur 01 4544 2200 2080 InjDur 00 2368 1880 1520 It also starts happily with this InjDur 02 4640 2828 2710 InjDur 01 4544 2356 2356 InjDur 00 2368 1741 1348 In both cases this is the spark. SpkAdv 02 11.02 11.02 15.00 SpkAdv 01 8.20 8.20 12.19 SpkAdv 00 8.20 8.20 10.08

Address might help! punch@bigpond.net.au

Hubert, thanks I managed to get some of the way through this but could not get the file saved. It acquired data from the ECU, but I could not access it afterwards to convert it to text - I will try again later. Can you email me a log file as I want to try to play with it to use Excel to analyse it. I am sure it will be possible - Excel is my passion! Richard

This is not a complaint or criticism. I am very much a new person to the intricacies of MyECU and mapping. In my opnion we need to build a manual based upon what we know. Some know a lot, some know a little. New guys like me probably ask the same questions as all the other new people, so why not document it in "our" own manual. Not quite wikipedia, but somethng similar. FAQs (and solutions) etc. I understand CJ's position and sometimes wonder if he wished he had never offered it to the likes of us! I am sure more hours have gone into this than ever will be recouped financially, but then many of you devote time to sharing your knowledge/experience for no gain apart from sharing what you know. It is a bit like you and your bike - there could be 10 to 100 bikes of the same model/colour in a row, but you could spot yours instantly, because you know it intimately. I think this may be the same with all the technology, functions and settings that CJ knows like a parent would know a child inside out. Why write this - today I rode My15M for the second time and had a chance to watch the tacho, rather than just hear/react to the engine and watch out for our friends in blue! The tacho did weird things compared to what my ear/feel knew was sensible/real. Sent an email to CJ and received a very rapid response, change SW3 to on, so the tacho does not flip between rpm and throttle position. This is now clear that it has been pointed out and yes it is on the web site, but until you have a bit of knowledge, a line here or there in the online manual may not sink in. As a new person, I would like to see some injur maps published as starting points - maybe options of this is for economy, this is for all out torque and power, this is for X, this is for Y. These could be merely as multipliers from a reference point, so people can then us global adjust to scale up or down to suit their bike's ccs, modifications like pipes, air filters, collector boxes etc. Being a Duc owner, I have posted requests on a Duc site to anyone who may have established the Ducati Performance (DP) map for my bike, so I at least have a non ideal map, but a good reference to start from to then get rid of the problems. - no response as yet on the DP map. I am so close to buying the Tuneboy software so I can see what the DP map is like - surely the Duc map must be a good starting point even though it would be based upon a balance of power, fuel economy and emissions legislation. In reality and hindsight, this would have saved me the hours spent so far looking at maps that are so extremely different in some parts of the map, but the bike still runs. Back to "our"manual - the info that "luhbo" posted about logging is invaluable - lubho has done it and knows how to document it, so why not consilidate the knowledge into a living, growing document? I have read every single post a couple of times and now will read again and the work out " Oh that is what that means" Richard

Thanks for that - looking at your target voltages the AFR looks very lean, but every bike/rider's desire will be different. I did up a little Excel spreadsheet for calculating target voltages for entry into the ecu file. I can't post spreadsheets, so I did it so that people can see the formulae and replicate in Excel etc.. This is for the Innovate LC-1 wideband sensor which operates from 0 to 5 V out. Richard AFR_for_MyECU_forum.pdf

Have not tried yet - work is getting in the way! I work from home and the bike, like the Devil on the shoulder, keeps saying forget work and play with me! Unfortunately I have a huge deadline to meet today. Maybe serial to USB for one?

The reason I wanted to log is due to my approach to the Mk III My15M is .... Got it starting and idling by adjusting the Breva map CJ supplied. Then calculated O2 voltages from LC-1 wideband O2 sensors between 12.8 and 13.5 AFR. Entered the appropriate voltages into the lines for O2 flag numbers, then set SW1 so that it runs in closed loop. It runs quite well, in spite of stupidly reversing the targets, not from 13.5 to 12.8, but 12.8 to 13.5 - what an idiot, but it shows either how tolerant my bike is to AFR and/or the closed loop reacts fairly well. I then wanted to log how much the ECU was having to correct from the base map to reach the O2 targets, so I could then edit the injdur lines to get the base map close to my AFR targets. For information (and no doubt lots of comments, which are welcome) I set row 00 to 13.5 and row 14 to 12.8, with AFR changing linearly between the two. This is for all revs apart from 500. After that I plan to do a trip to a dyno to start tweaking. Richard

The registration works and I like the fact that it splits into different aspects of MyECU. Richard

Sorry if it seemed i was offended/aggressive - that was never the intent - that is the problem with the written word, rather than face to face preferably over a beer or two, just having arrived on a bike! The Sigma stuff was just part of my learning curve to recognise that we sometimes slow down, after accelerating and therefore understanding the intricacies/sectors of maps. Very big learning curve for me which is why this forum is so good, given that CJs site only becomes clear when you know, unfortunately not when one is on the learning curve. An idiots guide would be brilliant as I want to get the best from my bike and to me logging as much data as possible will let me analyse what is happening in the blink of an eye, but in my own time. My Ducati ECU works fine (far too rich) but my view is that if there is something extra/better I want to access it. Don't know why, just the attitude that what is good can be better, which is why I mod even my own mods day after day. Richard

Two or more things I posted the Sigma info because it was useful to me, as someone new to this, in case someone else also needed to understand the basics of maps. Like when I post on Duc forums, I post on the basis that a newbie is looking for info and may not know anything. This may offend those that already know, but I view it as part of "our" desire to educate . . . just my attitude/approach. In the same vein as above, this is a "Dummies" request - Hubert can you provide an idiots guide (for me!) on what to do please. I have My15M and a Laptop with a serial port, it is just all the info/bits/cables/instructions in between that I do not know! A stepby step guide would be really appreciated, then I can post back results. Richard