HI All,
I have undertaken to replace the seals in the 2003 V11 final drive box that is talked about in the thread by Gino.
The vent cap was blocked and a fast run from Cork in Ireland to Scotland forced oil past the inner seal!!
I stripped the bevel box without much bother, and found it was neccessary to remove the inner needle roller bearing to change the inner seal, so I heated the housing with a hot air gun (out of gas again) for about 5 or more min, I would have rather got it a bit hotter as a test spit was only simmering not bouncing!!!!!!!!!!!!
I used a soclet that would just fit into the axle needle roller bearing (inner race removed) and a gentle tap pushed washer seal and bearing out without damage.
I find pullers will normally pinch the outer ends of a needle rollerbearing rendering it useless
I was then checking out the condition of the parts when I noticed the pinion shaft had play???????
The housing was still hot to the touch, as it cooled the play decreased, but there is still some there when cold
I then joined this forum to try and find out what the **%% is going on!!!!
No REAL answers though, only blaming Luigi
My experiences in setting up automotive pinion bearings is that the normal taper roller bearings are pre loaded by either shimming or a crushable sleeve and measuring the torque required to turn the pinion
Split race bearings used in car wheel bearings are usually torqued to a very high setting (up to 350lbft)
There is no way that the thread in the Guzzy final drive housing will take a high torque value like that!!!!!
So here is my theorie of whats happening!!!
As the alloy casing heat cycles during use the alloy relaxes and the factory preload is lost
OR the alloy expands and allows the bearing to move further in to the housing as others have suggested (doubtful)
Looking at the photos here it appears that this bearing has a split inner and outer races?????
The high torque applied at the factory on the pinion shaft nut is evident, Hence the reason that people are resorting to
cutting off the nut??????
So how tight should the outer sleeve nut be??????????????
I have two thoughts!!! (for what their worth)
1, Heat up the housing to around 40-50 degrees C, then tighten the sleeve until there is no play, let it cool and check how tight it is.
the alloy contracting should not damage the steel bearing.
2, preload the sleeve cold, measure the pitch of the sleeve thread, divide by 360, this will give a value of distance by degree turned
select a preload value???? For example 0.10 mm
Screw in the sleeve nut until just tight and then the calculated number of degrees to apply the preload
and again check how tight it is!
What do you all think?
The Manual is useless in this respect and not a patch on the Guzzi Factory Manual I have for the old T3's etc
Best Regards
John O R
