baha1000

I've completed the diode test (the 1.5v battery method) and it failed at both yellow wires testing at each. Also, but without the engine running as the battery needs to be recharged, I checked the black wire out of curiosity and it registered almost 2v less of what I was getting directly at the battery. I'm guessing I have to replace the regulator and if so should I go with a stock replacement or are there better alternatives?

The diode test is next then. I'm really grateful for al the guidance and help!

I finally go a chance to get back and do a few tests after relocating the regulator ground fix. Checked the fuse with the multi-meter, it was fine, then checked the the homage of the two yellow and it read .7 ohms followed by checking the AC voltage out of the alternator and got about 30 or so volts at roughly 2500 rpm. After reconnecting the yellow wires I was barely able to turn the engine over to restart the bike because I already lost that much power from this month old battery and was getting less than 12v at the battery with the bike running. My regulator has the epoxy backing so are the all the wire leads soldered to the circuit board and is it a bad idea to try to remove the rubber piece the wires run into at the back of the regulator to inspect the wires?

Duh, of course that's not the alternator. At least I now know how to remove the starter! Thanks for the advice and the color schematic should prove helpful. The relays at least "feel" like a tight fit and I'll next check the fuse. What should I read at the yellow wire connection between the alternator and regulator? Thanks again.

I'm having a similar problem and I did the regulator grounding fix I've seen on other posts. At the alternator (I hope I'm right that it's the thing on top of the starter motor) I'm getting 12v while it's running and at the battery the same but drops to 9v as rpm's increase. Used to be a slow drain, maybe 8 twenty mile partial freeway commutes, but now with a fully charged battery, the drain happens within 10 minutes (the tach even quits working). Could it simply be just a bad alternator on this 12k mile bike? This novice appreciates your help!