justmike

New in original packaging, odometer bevel drive for 2000 V11Sport, P/N 4768300. Make an offer, as I have no idea what it's worth. Ships from Ontario, Canada. http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b569/justmiketoo/image_zpsbxjnz0j0.png

Complete brand new lock set for V11 Sport - includes gas cap, ignition switch, seat lock, and helmet lock. Make me an offer.

NOS lock set including ignition switch, gas cap, trunk lock, and helmet lock. Asking $200 Cdn.

Will consider working or not.

Looking for a set of screws (really only need one) that secure the oil cooler to the mounting brackets on a 2000 V11 Sport. One of my mounting brackets finally broke - and I stripped the hex socket out of one of these screws while trying to remove it. Murphy's law of course - the other three came out without a hitch These screws are black oxide finished, 6mm x 1.0 thread, with a shallow domed head about 16mm. in diameter and a 4mm. hex socket. I found some close alternatives but would like to keep things as original as possible.

It's like a Heli-Coil or a Time-sert for valve guides... Do a forum search, Pete 'splains it better than I can. I did search the forum, and then Googled K-line. Learned something new today Just hoping I don't have to go there!

I like the sounds of that. In fact, the last time I had the airbox of I did notice a slight build-up of oil in one side of the airbox - can't remember which side - but I do remember wondering "what the heck is that from?" It makes some sense that every time you'd come to a stop that oil would flow forward into the intake, and flow backward when you accelerated. I'll pull it of next week and have a look - if there's a puddle is it likely I've got too much oil in the crankcase, or have I got some other problem?

1st thing is a compression test, to see if the compression on that cylinder is significantly lower on that side; if so, it'll be new ring time. If the compression checks out, then you'll want to check the valves on that cylinder for too much side2side slop; the V11s have a bit of a reputation for Guzzi using some very fine Italian cheese in the making of their valve guides ; a K-line reportedly will set that problem right. Best o' luck w/ that. Thanks Skeeve - that sounds like a good starting point. Because of the lack of smoke at speed I was thinking not likely rings, and more likely your suggestion about valve guides. Not familiar with the term K-line - wussat?

I had noticed that every time I'd come back from a ride and turned off the bike there'd be a faint plume of smoke rising from the right exhaust - nothing from the left. I chalked this up to maybe an un-fired injection of fuel into that cylinder upon shutdown and didn't give it much more thought than that - it looked kinda cool - like some of the images in an Ogri comic. Yesterday I went for a ride with a friend and let him take my Guzzi, following on my Beemer. I noticed every time we stopped that the right exhaust of the Guzzi smoked significantly, but cleared up immediately as we pulled away, and nothing even remotely noticeable at speed. Not so cool - and now I'm sleepless! The bike only has 4500 miles on it. I haven't done any investigation yet - hoping somebody might have some pointers before I waste time going down the wrong path.

You're probably right - but I've got this control issue where things just gotta do what they're told to do

I just had the same problem - went straight to the electric petcock and voila - both wires fell off in my hands! It's quite a simple job to solder them back on - the chrome cap on the bottom of the valve slides off, leaving plenty of access to the solder connections to the coil. Slid the cap back on, applied a little epoxy into the well around the wires and stuck the tank back on. Fired right up and runs great. This forum just saved me hours of head-scratching - thanks for the help. My next step is to hit the donate button.....

Good call on the "standard torque value" for 8.8 grade bolts - I agree. I think the manual's reference to "high resistance bolts" confirms what you're saying about the 12.9 grade - they must me differentiating for a reason. I installed mine with Loctite blue paste, and torqued to 39 Nm. - felt good going together (in three steps ) - hopefully it'll stay together.

That seems to be in the right ballpark - works for me. You're the man raz - thank you.

Well, I think I'm getting closer. Pretty sure that "high resistance screws" is an Italian translation of "high tensile screws". What I believe are the original screws at the bevel drive end are marked 12.9, while the shiny cad-plated screws at the gearbox end (presumably replaced by whoever did the transmission recall) are marked 8.8, which I've learned is a designation for tensile strength. The 8.8 screws were the ones that stripped - which makes sense in terms of their lower tensile strength. So I'm off to buy four new 12.9 x M8 x 1.25 pitch x 30mm. long socket head cap screws. Now, torque spec anyone? I've found that the fastener can be torqued to 49 Nm., but what about the threads in the forged u-joint knuckle - what are they good for? The blue loctite is a great idea - I was already going that route. Not so sure about the torque until stripped and back off 1/2 a turn

Can anyone tell me if these are "special" bolts, and what the proper torque specification is (2000 V11 Sport)? Quote from my Guzzi Manual: "Remove the transmission shaft from the gearbox by unscrewing the high resistance screws." Screws came out, but the screw threads are toast - looks like they used permanent loctite on them. I ran a tap throught the u-joint ends - threads look great - but I want to make sure I don't err on the replacement screws. Thanks! Mike

I've seen that screen before and wondered about the bulge in the centre - but it's actually a perfect fit by the looks of it. And the CF is sweet. Looks awesome. Oh great, now there's another one to choose from PS - where'd you get the reservoir caps- they look great too.

Just wondering- has anybody tried fitting a Triumph Thruxton flyscreen to a V11 Sport? I'm looking to put something on mine but just can't seem to decide.

Thanks Ratchet. Yes, I've seen that recall notice with the parts listed, and I wouldn't have a problem doing the work - but the cost of parts would have me concerned. And no, I haven't purchased the bike yet - but we've settled on a price conditional upon whether or not it needs the recall done. I feel bad for the guy - the price was already pretty good - he's not gonna want to eat the price of these parts too! But neither would I. Buyers beware!!! Are you saying that you think the recall is legitimately over - SteveG. seems to think there is no expiry date?

I guess I was thinking more in terms of challenging the "expiry" of the recall - is there such a thing?

Okay, so the fellas at MotoInternational were able to get me an answer in about 2 minutes flat - I've been waiting for two days from the local dealers The bad news is the recall has not been performed on this particular bike. The worse news is, the recall apparently expired on December 31, 2008 Any suggestions?

Steve, Thanks for the feedback. Wow - I thought I'd have answers up the yin-yang! Hard to believe it took 88 hits before a response on this one. I'll give your man a try to see if he's got any quick answers.

Just about ready to purchase a 2000 V11 Sport that HASN'T had the trans recall done. Does anybody know if Guzzi will still honor the repair at no cost? If not, any idea what the necessary parts are worth?