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sign216

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Posts posted by sign216

  1. My 2003 Rosso Corsa used to run poorly around 3000 rpm. My Rosso Mandello did not have this disease, -and it had no Lambda sensor. So I ripped the Lamda sensor off the RC and replaced the original ECU with one from the pre-Lambda periode. According to the seller, this ECU should also be slightly tuned (don't know how and how much, though...).

    The result was very good. The bike runs nicely and clean from bottom to top, and pulls nicely. The fuel consumption went slightly up though (from 0.58 l/10km to around 0.63 l/10km).

    What would I eventually gain from changing this ECU to a MyECU?

    I know MyECU is serviceable in case something happens, but could I expect the bike to run even smoother, faster, pull better, use less petrol, or what?

    May be stupid questions, but I just wonder. A good rule is to not touch what works well, but then again one might miss some adventures...

     

    Bjor, I think with MyECU you get to make your own map for the ECU. This is a benefit if you have problems to solve, or want to maximize performance, but since your bike runs well it's up to you.

     

    My bike has a bad ECU, so it's an easier decision for me. My soldering skills are good, but I am daunted by having to make my own map. Turning a wrench is fine. Making a 3 dimensional computer map is a little different.

  2. Is MyECU from Cliff Jefferies still a viable replacement for a current factory unit? Their website

    MyECU is dated, with no new developments, and it can be hard for one man operation like his to stay on top of things.

     

    My 2009 V7C ECU has a ROM error preventing a TPS reset. Rather than throw money at it, I'm thinking of getting a MyECU kit from Cliff Jefferies for $260. The ability to set my own map would be great, but it wonder if MyECU has kept up with the Guzzi factory.

     

    Joe

  3.  

    So...my Ballabio has a 13 AH sealed battery. The GPS mount will take this down to 80% charge in approx 4 1/2 weeks. Add the normal self discharge for these type batteries of around 2.5% per week and I'll get around, what, 2 1/2 to 3 weeks from full charge to 80% - I've got to ride more!

    EXACTLY, you can't risk a flat battery :rasta:

     

    I am amazed that the line will draw amps without even being connected to the GPS. The draw is small, but something to watch for. Thanks all.

  4. V11, you're right, I think I connected the neg lead first, in error. Still, I'm surprised there's a current draw in the power line, even when the GPS is unconnected.

     

    Kiwi, I would have connected the GPS directly to the 12v current too, but fortunately I checked some online forums first, and had previously disassembled a cigarette plug and seen the circuitry inside. Or I would have made that mistake too.

     

    It's all powered off a small after-market fuse panel, that's nice because it fits so well in the tight space that cycles have.

     

    Joe

    Mobile solutions fuseblock.jpg

  5. I always hardwire my Escort radar detector to my bikes, and instead of going directly out from the battery I use a not hot fuse. That way if the bike's turned off, so is the connection.

     

    I did it via a small fuse block. I just slapped on the GPS line to go up to Laconia tomorrow, for a trip of a few days.

     

    I also got a micro-relay + fittings for a better setup, but that will have to wait until I get back.

     

    In the meantime, I'm curious about this drain, on what should be a dead line.

  6. I'm putting in a direct wire for my GPS. Goes from two raw leads at the battery, to a mini USB plug for the Garmin. Direct Wire Unit

     

    I was surprised when I attached the leads, to see a small spark at the positive connection. Nothing's attached to the line yet, just the wire, so there should be no current draw, right? Multimeter says a current draw of 0.5 volt and 0.003 amp (3 m Amp).

     

    Although the GPS isn't attached, is it possible that the voltage reduction circuit in the line is causing the parasitic drain? I think the black box in the line may reduce the voltage from 12 to approx 3 volt for the GPS.

     

    Is the 0.5 volt 0.003 amp drain significant? Is it normal?

  7. johnk (more money than sense, apparently)

     

    Doesn't that go along with living in the Bay Area anyway? :grin:

    Sorry your bike's been so much trouble...hopefully you get her sorted soon.

    c

     

    My transmission locked up after a mechanic applied the recall fix on my 2000 V11 sport. When He put it back together he didn't put a circlip on correctly, it broke. The shifter shaft feel out at about 70+ mph.

    It was very exciting when I downshifted.:helmet:

     

    http://www.guzzitech...chuckshrap2.jpg

    http://www.guzzitech...chuckshrap1.jpg

     

    From www.guzzitech.com shrapnel page

     

    I had the tranny warranty work done to my 00 V11 sport. Replace a couple of pieces to prevent a transmission lockup. I had all the springs replaced while they were in there. When I got the bike back the neutral indicator light would come on randomly. Turns out a clip had broken that holds a shifter cam onto a pressed fit shaft on the cover. While I was riding out in western MA on Tuesday I noticed transmission oil leaking from the shaft, so I kept an eye on it and headed home, stopping 5-6 times to check it. On the Mass Pike at around 75 MPH the shaft fell out of the case onto the road. I happened to look in the mirror and see smoke billowing out the back. I knew I blew a seal or something and the rear tire would be soaked with oil. I slowly pulled into the breakdown lane. I used the front brake to slow down to about 50 and downshifted, not realizing the shifter cam had fallen into the tranny. BOOM and a nice controlled rear wheel lockup for about 150 ft...

     

    Tom, nice work. It's good that happened in the western part of the state. Imagine that in the east, say on 128?

    I give you credit for controlling the machine.

    Joe

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