javahouse

I'd like to try the HD TPS but there seems to be none in the UK. It's on back-order expected 6th July in Belgium. Otherwise there's wildly varying prices for the MG part. Teo Lamers quoted about €380 whereas SparesGB in the UK quoted £79... but - you guessed it - out of stock and on back-order. I've ordered a replacement fiat crank sensor, expected tomorrow. I ought to try the wiring checks that Kiwi Roy recommends really. I'm having a day off it tomorrow. It's my birthday, and I also need to get my 1000S 100% so that I can go away on that at the weekend. Which will be nice. It's been frustrating. Never had anything quite like this with carb bikes. This is turning into something of a baptism of fire. Still, I'm becoming quite familiar with Guzzi fi very quickly. Rob

Thanks Charging seems steady state. 14.2/14.3 at 2-3000 rpm No differences wiggling wires No marking on the 30A fuse However, re the TPS, between the outside pins the resistance is linear, but between the centre and the bottom pin the resistance drops, then picks up again, then continues to drop. Could this be thee culprip? I'd have to be unlucky. A previous owner had a bill for £505 GBP for diagnosis and replacement of the TPS. There is no fi warning light coming on, but then perhaps there is no fi warning light. The mechanic at the local dealer said there was a light, I assumed it's be the low fuel light doubling as a fi warning, but now I'm thinking there isn't one. There's no mention in the handbook. Thoughts appreciated Thanks Rob

Hi Thought I'd mention, the front UJ yoke on my 2003 V11 - screw was tight, but the yoke was still sliding on the shaft. I tightened it further, and stopped it, but did wonder if it was perhaps supposed to slide? Thanks Rob

Still ran rough as hell with the PC disconnected, still kangarooing/missing/banging etc. So re-connected the PC and dialled 150mV on the TPS fully closed, which seemed pretty good last time. This time awful again - barely diferent. Took it out for 3-miles and it blew the RH TB off twice. I'm thinking that although the TPS appears OK on my digital meter, maybe there's some spikes that aren't registering? Otherwise I'd appreciate any other ideas. Thanks Rob

Hi Got it running pretty good Saturday. Then today I took the rubbers off the TBs and checked them out (fine) then altered the TPS to 170mV Closed and 550mV Idle and it's awful. Backfiring plenty again on part throttle openings. I went out earlier and it blew the RH TB off twice before I could get home. Just going to try taking the PCIII off and give it another run. Rob

Nar Says 5W40 in my Ballabio handbook too. Came with the bike... Rob

Popping & banging on the over-run has pretty much stopped though. And I did spray them up with WD and nothing. They look in good order, and the clips were tight. I can't discount them, but I think it unlikely. If the problem re-emerges, I'll def be looking very closely at them. Cheers Rob

Well many thanks to all... I don't quite know why, but after following the TPS setting instructions http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12204 to the letter (and I mean +/- nothing) it's now running 95% fixed. I don't know why this fault would develop within 50 miles of riding though, maybe I did pick up some bad fuel and then proceeded to upset all my settings before the bad fuel was through the system? Anyway as I say. 95% fix Residual problems are... Revs don't die as quickly as I'd like (slower than before) Still missing/coughing/fluffy between 2500 & 3300. I know this is a dodgy area with V11s anyway, but it's a lot worse than previous? I'll recheck and rebalance tomorrow to try and iron out fully, but can anyone tell me whether I need to alter the TPS settings if I have a PCIII and K&N fitted (as I do) Thanks to all (esp dlaing) Ta Rob

Thanks for replies This morning I went round checking earths. Disconnected and by-passed the PCIII Re-shimmed the phase sensor a smidgin closer It sounds different, but the problem's still getting worse. Still no FI warning lights either I think I'm going to need to try Roys method some time soon. Rob

I'm afraid I'm usually asking for advise and not giving it. But here goes another... I have a really bad (barely rideable) misfire on my V11. Started the other evening just after filling up with Shell V power. Symptoms are very bad mis (cutting in/out) on neutral throttle position/small throttle openings, and BIG bangs / backfires on closed throttle. But it runs great on a wide open throttle. So far I have Changed the fuel. Changed the plugs. Checked the phase sensor (it's 720 Ohms) Checked the Air & Oil temp sensors (Both 3 kilo Ohm) Replaced all relays for the old ones which were OK I've cleaned all the electrical connectors under the tank while I was there too. Checked the side stand and clutch cut-out switches. Then I checked the TPS. And it WAS 350mV at full closed. So I adjusted as per instructions and it's now 150mV at closed and 4.8V at wide open throttle. And still the misfire gets worse. The bike's un-rideable, and now the fault occurrs from cold and the bike just kangaroos and jumps around like mad at anything less than a full open throttle. At full open it feels good, till you close and the back-fires start. Ideas welcomed... Thanks Rob