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edge

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Posts posted by edge

  1. WANTED: Somebody to take over the crafting of Edge Guards for the community. I have been off the grid for a few years, the Guzzi is gone, and I have a box of molding blocks and tools that I used to make "Edge-Guards" for the community. I have the original rear strut mold, and various templates for the battery box, upper shock lug cover, etc... What I am looking for is someone with simple craft skills, passion for the community and mark, and willingness to keep making them to fill the demand. It's takes Kydex sheet plastic, a small router/dremel for cutting plastic blanks, and a heat gun to form, as well as a V11 to hand mold the lug covers. I made a couple hundred for the community in the day, did them at cost +shipping world wide (and made lots of friends in the process). Don't bother me if you’re not all in on this, trying to make a buck, or will leave it sitting on the garage floor. I'll send you what I have, and walk you through the process for putting together the kits. It was a simple solution to a common problem (search it). Sorry for the delay on offering this back to the community but I hope the right guy/gal steps up.

     

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  2. Maybe a web foul as I didn't follow the whole thread but just the same, I went with a set of Two Brother Racing risers and did not need re-cable/line the controls. Still fits within the fairing and gave a bit of lift and of course sweep and and angle all adjustable. :thumbsup:

     

    http://www.twobros.com/Cust_Service/Instal...V3-RBR_Inst.pdf

     

    Don't remember where I bought them but I am happy. Bar end weights were a bit of a challenge as nothing from the goose would transfer beyond controls and grips due to ID, missing threading, etc...

  3. Had mine for about 4 years, sometimes fugly but always softer on the helmet. Makes 60-80mph much less stressful on my neck. Above and below 60-80mph not much good for anything beyond bug deflection. :P

  4. If the bike has been down, I would check the bottom tripple tree stearing stop lug(s). If the tank is set properly, my guess is the stop broke off if tank is set propperly. Also if the stearing stop lug is gone/munched, I would look at the damper too, since it has been hyper extednded/compressed in the process.

  5. FWIW; I had mine professionally polished 4 years ago to get rid of a bit of road rash on one of the covers :o

     

    Both covers and repacment head guards came out wonderful and still look good today without any polishing beyond normal cleaning. No laquer or other coating applied either.

     

    I've thought of polishing but when I've done this in the past the metal soon dulls.If a lacquer is applied then it yellows after a while. With stove enameling the finish stays spot on and is easy to keep on top of. Thanks for all the input but at the moment stove enameling gets the vote and is something I can get done locally. Thanks again.
  6. Still here.... I just got more plastic Friday and will be a couple of weeks before I can get them done due to work travels but I have four in the cue that I have already PM'd. If there are more interested, it is a good time to PM me so I can cover you while I am at it.... ;)

  7. What he said... Check the cap seal, my guess someone rmoved it to stop tan-suck. FWIW not such a good idea as demonstrated :o

     

    I've not tested mine, but in theory it should seal. However...

     

    Others removed part or all of the rubber seal around the gas cap so the tank could vent there.

     

    Have a look at the cap first. After that, I am out of ideas!

     

    Garsdad

  8. Several here have done the same. Depending on the model, they are made by the same company, and are a near perfect fit at much less money. The anchor point on the bike may have to be modified a bit with an extra alignment hole but they can be pretty much a direct swap.

     

    Do a Buell search turn signal search here and you'll find several threads on compatibility.

  9. FWIW; I had a similar problem with road rash on one of my valve covers. My fix was to have it stripped and polished out. 4 years later they still look very good, no sign of the original scuff mark and no more maintnenace that what i gave the painted surfaces. I saved a bunch of money not replaceing them and I think they look better polished anyway... ^_^

  10. I had an aw sh*t in my garage a couple of years ago that munched the shifter. I had the shifter bits welded back together by a competent welder. A good bead, a little grinding, and it looks and works fine (and probably stronger than the original). It is still in use, even though I have sinced sourced a new one that I keep in reserve.

  11. Ok, after what seems like a couple of years of being out of the net, I am finally back and have caught up on playing with Guzzi plastic bits. I do have available some of the "A", "B" and "C" pieces that are covered in this thread; the original mud guard, the battery cover (with/without hugger installed) and shock lug covers. I know some of you have contacted me interested over time and I have shipped most of requests. With my busy world and a serious case of CRS :o , I have admittedly lost track of who is who or what was desired (sorry whit, drknow... Jan you’re covered).

     

    If you’re interested, please PM me directly to jog my memory, with address, and what you want. I'll get your order together with a reasonable price based on what you want, quantity and shipping location.

    edge

  12. Bike wont rev out with stand down,reaches about 3000 rpm then misfires and will rev no more. Obvious suspect is stand cutout switch,my question is can it be bypassed,disconnected or removed? Bike is running fine otherwise (specially since I set the air screws to one turn out - the "mechanic "that did the last service had the left screw 3 turns and the right half a turn... :bbblll: ).

     

    I would not recommend switch removal based on a hard lesson shared on this forum. We had a member buy a LeMans and PO had removed the switch. All was good until one day he entered a LH sweeper with the stand down and it took the good doctor many months to heal both self and bike. :2c:

  13. How it moves it away from the controls is certainly one of my concerns.

    I am hoping I can rotate the peg mount five to ten degrees to bring it forward a little.

    Is that doable?

     

    I suppose you could rotate the bracket but it will rotate the peg from it's horozontal plane which will effect the hinge and foot placement. Also will cosmetically look a little off since the pork-chop has a matching "pad" area for the bracket. Although there is no drop, I guess you coul play with the idea with the guzzi pegs first :huh2:

  14. Ryan,

     

    The two main complaints on the Buell-Guzzi peg conversion is there is a bit of modification required to get the buell peg to fit on the Guzzi, And two; when installed on a Guzzi, the peg actually is shifted aft about an inch which is a bit too far for natural break/shifter foot placement unless you have size 13 dogs. If you were to design a nuetral drop where the peg was on line with the mounting bracket and the the pin and pivot point dimensions were the same as a Guzzi, I think for 70-80 you would have several takers as it would be an easy swap and save the embarassment of going to the Harly stealership to source parts :P

  15. Hi Edge,

     

    How's it going? Are you ready to ship yet?

     

    John in Warwick, New York.

     

    Hey guy, unfortunatly my schedule has changed a bit. I am still suck in Afghnaistan for the next couple of weeks. Looks like April for my return. I'll post when I have them availalbe.. :huh2:

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