Trevini
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Posts posted by Trevini
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Plus one on disconnecting the pc3. I have one on mine and it did throw a wobbly last year (bike wouldn't rev past about 2k). Unplugged and normal service was resumed. Strangely, left it off for a while (months) and then re fitted and all was well again. As said, very easy to do, just unplug both plugs on the pc and plug the original bike loom plug back into the ecu. As a precaution, disconnect the battery first. You probably wouldn't cause any harm ,but ecus don't tend to like power surges. Once you have the bike back to standard it'll be much easier to diagnose any other issues as a pc map can help to disguise symptoms. Think of the pc as a "fine tuning" unit.
I'd go with a valve clearance check, tps setup, followed by throttle body balance and idle mixture setup in that order, then see where you go from there. You may have already done a lot of that, but I'd go through and double check. My gut feeling is that it will be tps (incorrectly set of failing), lean running due to fuel map being incorrect (unplugging pc should show this one up) or maybe valve clearance closing as the engine gets warm.
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Danl - I did have to chop things about a little inside to get it to fit, but I wanted to retain the original appearance, so it was worth it for me. I have it wired to an ignition switched relay that I've added to completely isolate the Electrex reg/rec unit (to prevent battery drain when switched off due to the internal voltage sensing on the unit) and earthed directly to the battery. That way it shows accurately what the charging is doing. It will also indicate overcharging by flashing green and then red depending how high the voltage goes.
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I have a voltage sensing LED which I built into the original dash. Similar to this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6v-12v-24v-LED-Battery-level-voltage-monitor-meter-J-/200627678428?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2eb6576cdc
Amber for 11.8 - 12.8 volts
Green for 12.8 - 15 Volts
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Yeah, I've had the tank swelling for a little while now and have just started getting measles. email sent, thanks again.
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To all who may still be interested or now have a buggered up tank due to Ethanol I adopted two separate options my Rosso Corsa I shot blasted the tank and had
a box alloy tank built that now fits inside the original the down side with this is Im down to 4.4 Imperial Gallons and you loose the air box
but as it my Sunday afternoon bike no big sacrifice. My other le man which I use for Touring I ve now had an alloy tank made, the difficulty in getting someone to make a Tank in the UK now is unbelievable all the people I spoke to who make Tanks just want to make
what they have always made and are a waste of time however if you wish to get a new alloy tank for your V11 try Lee Cary at
MCS Engineering (Colchester) info@mcs-engineering.co.uk a very talented guy and the the template frame is ready to make further
tanks
Thanks for the info - my tank has just started to bubble, so I've dropped them an email. Do you have any photos of yours?
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Ok, I Googled the Twinmax, it obviously works using a differential pressure cell. that's very good.
I thought it was one of those devices with metal rods.
Still I can buy a lot of beer for $105.
Since it's so portable you should try riding with it, then you would be able to see the balance at open throttle settings.
I have a Twinmax. Works very well. The only slight bugbear with it is that the calibration control is very sensitive and takes a bit of patience to set accurately. Overall, great piece of kit. I also have a Morgan Carbtune (metal rod type) which I've used for years. That also works very well, especially on multis rather than twins. Of the two, the "go to" one is the Twinmax for both of my bikes.
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Please sign this guys (uk only)
They've used taut wires for the central reservation on the A11 in Norfolk and this stuff is potentially lethal.
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These are my two favourites...
http://
The Ballentines is blended rather than single malt, but qualifies as it's a blend of single malts aged from 10-21 years and left to mature for a further 15 years in Oak barrels. Both are limited run selected/special reserves.
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I suspect it's a temp/mixture related issue. As soon as you get in stop/start traffic they get hot quite quickly, having the effect of running richer. It's probably that that is causing the revs to drop a bit if it's a touch rich to start with. If it were running lean, you'd probably find the revs increased a little. Bearing in mind the efi system is quite ancient now and doesn't run closed loop like newer systems and is therefore, effectively just an electronic carb rather than a fully managed injection system.
If it's any consolation, mine drops a bit when it gets really hot in traffic, but soon settles back to "normal" when it's been ridden at proper speeds again. I did go down the route of using just the left screw, but found it to be more stable using both screws. I did wonder if having the right screw backed off allowed a little movement on the right hand throttle body (any slack in the linkage) as the engine pulsed.
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Hot Cold Ground has some tracks on it (free download) and also our You Tube page for some live performances and a couple of music vids. Check out Route A146 and the Andy Palmer song. Andy was Daniels work colleague and had been made redundant so we wrote a song and produced a video to cheer him up.
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Daniels creation not mine. He's rather good at that sort of thing.
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Anybody going along to this one?
Our band, Hot Cold Ground is playing on the Blues stage from 7pm, so if you're there come and say hi. I won't be on my V11 though, as I can't carry the amp and guitar lol
Hope to see you there.
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Andy
If you want to do a quick check to see if it's the reg/rec causing the drain, just disconnect the positive feed to the reg/rec off the battery (leaving everything else connected) and measure the voltage drop overnight again. If it's less drop than your measurements above you may well have your answer. If that proves to be the case, we can walk you through wiring up a relay to disconnect that wire when you turn the ignition off.
edit - just re read your earlier post - just take the fuse out, it'll serve the same purpose and save you disconnecting wiring.
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I think you may be referring to my bike Hubert. I fitted an electrex reg/rec which had a bit of a drain when connected directly to the battery . About 40mA if I remember correctly. It wouldn't drain whilst riding, or overnight, but it would be sluggish to turn over after a week or two. I cured it completely by making the live feed relay switched through the ignition switch.
Which reg/rec do you have Andy?
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Absolutely agree. Donation sent.
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Metal on mine when I replaced it a couple of years ago due to leakage.
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The car's a bit special too. Oh, the noise!
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That is correct that there is no seal. Most of us give it a good grease up whenever the rear wheel is off. Whilst you're correct in saying the axle doesn't rotate, the drive assembly is subject to movement as the suspension rises and falls, so it does move in small increments.
I think there was thread a while back where a solid spacer had been machined to fit in place of the bearing. Personally, I'd be inclined to replace the bearing and ensure it's well greased in future.
I don't know what thoughts others have on using silicon grease on this bearing? I've used it in kingpin bearings on cars without ill effect (where they are subject to water ingress. i.e 4x4s etc).
This is what I use...Waterproof grease linky
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Can someone with an Electrex measure it for us, I will measure an electrosport.
If you remember, a while back I measured the current drain on mine. Can't remember the exact figures now, but 40mA springs to mind, which dropped to about 4mA after fitting a relay to disconnect it when the ign is switched off. It's on a thread here somewhere.
In practical terms, it meant the bike would just about turn over and start after about two weeks and when plugged into an optimate, would take a couple of hours to get back to full charge. Since the relay fitment, I can leave the bike 6 weeks plus, starts instantly with no sluggish turn over and if plugged into the optimate, only takes a few minutes to show fully charged.
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I don't use those panniers any more. I have a 52 litre Jofama tailpack/pannier combo that fits perfectly on the V11. Really stable too. Had it up to 220kmh on a German autobahn without any worries. The sat nav bag is dedicated to the tank bag. Rear mount is Velcro, so really easy to fill up and re tension if necessary.
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Here you go Andy. Complete with sat nav bag too.
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What about a Bagster with a harness rather than cover?
For touring, I use a Bagster cover and bag, but only put the cover on for the tour. In all honesty for days, I just use a back pack, but I do also have a Hein Gerricke similar to this one (straps rather than magnetic obviously) with a GPS bag for the sat nav/phone.
Still not 100% confident.........
in Technical Topics
Posted
I run mine at standard, but err on the side of loose rather than tight. However, if it gets really hot in traffic, it does sometimes start to misfire a little when set to standard. I tried the raceco settings and that was improved, but it was quite noisy. Other than that, I didn't notice any benefit. I could see how a temp related valve clearance problem might cause what you are experiencing, but that's unlikely at 70 mph. I'd still put money on the pc3 causing issues, but that's an easy one to diagnose.
If it's of any help, I had a failing tps on my other bike (TDM 900) which had similar symptoms to yours. It was changed by Yamaha as a recall as the issue affected a number of bikes in the range. Bad batch, I guess.