Trevini
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Posts posted by Trevini
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15m on mine (2002 model year). I'd have thought it would work with either Andy. I also have a pc3 on my TDM and dynojet say disconnect the lambda sensor. The ecu on the TDM doesn't register any faults with it unplugged and nothing else done, so it can't be that bright I know that on some bikes a unit has to be fitted to fool the ecu into thinking the lambda is still connected. Hondas and Triumphs spring to mind for some reason.
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It'll work fine. Have the same one on my V11. Just install a suitable map for your V11 or get it on a dyno for a custom map.
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I don't know much about them, but they're based fairly close to where I work. Looking at their website, they seem to cover quite a few product ranges in the automotive industry. I'm not at work for a couple of weeks now, but may be able to pop over there at some point in the not too distant future.
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Just thought I'd share this as we're rather pleased with the way it turned out.
Enjoy and please share.
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All alarms are a waste of time and money. At best, a breakdown waiting to happen. I used to work in breakdown/recovery and other than flat batteries and tyre changes the most common reason for a call out was after market alarm/immobiliser malfunctions. Better to spend the cash on physical security. You can still get an insurance discount if you get the right ones and on the plus side, you'll have something to hit the thief with if you catch them in the act
- throwing an alarm fob won't do much! (other means of apprehending thieves are available). -
If it's of any use to you Andy, PC3 from some Ducati models will fit (cheaper and more common used). From memory, 900 superlight and Monster 900 plug straight in as they use the same ecu as V11. Just load a Guzzi map and you're away.
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Probably due in part (at least) by the Mistral crossover. The standard fuel map runs a bit lean in that area and it's well known that the Mistral helps to cure the poor fuelling in that range. If you've used a fuel map that has already had the fuelling in that rev range corrected, it'll now be a bit on the rich side. Your best option is to get a custom map for your bike rather than use any generic ones. Minor differences can make a huge difference to the fuelling required. Don't forget also, that these engines are a bit "cammy" and don't really get on the cam until after about 5k rpm. Anything below that is always going to run less efficiently and may need to have odd fuelling to compensate for poorer combustion.
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Have you tried Stein Dinse? They're normally pretty good.
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The PC3 will be the icing on the cake Andy. It will definitely runs better with one that has been set up for your bike. The generic V11 maps will get you in the ball park. Another option would be to remap the current ecu. You won't need to do both.
Different configurations (without a PC3) will affect different parts of the rev range. The Mistral crossover with standard cans does fill a hole in the mid range, but loses a little top end. With open Mistral cans also, you'll have an even stronger mid range, but it'll run lean at the top end and feel a little flat past about 6500rpm. More noticeable than with standard cans. Stick DB killers in the Mistrals and you get the top end back and a similar midrange to standard. I also have a modified airbox on mine and some internal mods, so things might be a little different on your bike. Open Mistrals and crossover are very loud, be warned!
In case you didn't know, especially as PC3s are quite hard to come by for V11s, the Ducati 900 Monster (and possibly others too) uses the same ecu and a PC3 for that will fit and work fine once the appropriate map for the Guzzi has been installed. As a generic product, a PC3 will work on just about everything. The differences are in how the unit connects to the bikes. If you check on the Dynojet website you'll see that there are two types of firmware - one for Harleys and one for everything else.
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I have an Odyssey pc545 on my V11 and a Yuasa on my other bike. Both are fine, but if I had to replace either I'd probably go for a Yuasa on the basis of being cheaper and the current one I own has given zero problems in 4 years and never sees a battery minder even if left for a couple of months at a time. I'm not convinced that the Odyssey is worth the extra cash and I've heard reports that the Odyssey batteries don't like battery minders (might just be hearsay). Perhaps someone can shed some light on that?
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I put a pair of Maxxis boots on my V11, a cracking price and a super tire!!
Which ones?
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Base dimensions: Front to rear 35cm. Width at rear 27cm. Width at front 37cm. Depth of flap 8cm.
The on bike pics were taken with the seat cover in place and not fully strapped down, but that is where is sits when in use.
Germany rocks - I love it over there. Fantastic roads too.
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I use a Bagster on both my bikes. "Alpha" bag for touring (I can do a week away with just that) and I just use a "Tweety" for day use when needed. I don't run with the cover on all the time on the V11, but it has permanent residence on the TDM.
FYI Andy - For the back end on the V11 I use a 52 litre Jofama combined tailpack and panniers with waterproof inner bags. Brilliant bit of kit and fits the V11 perfectly. I've had it up to 220kmh on an autobahn and it was totally stable.
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V11 tank covers on offer HERE
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Quick update on mine.
Fired up like never before after sitting for a week and charge system perfect.
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I used a 12v 70A rated relay. I had one laying around in the van as I use them at work, but a search on ebay should find one for about £5-6. Mounting wise, I have it fitted in the void in the left side of the tail piece near the battery. Only a temporary cable tie fix until I have a little more time to make a proper clamp to the frame rail. I've left the bike off the battery minder and I'm working away all week, so we'll see how it starts next weekend.
I bought my reg/rec from Gutsibits a couple of years ago. Like you, no complaints with the reg and certainly not with the service from Gutsibits. They have always been excellent when I've used them. I dug out the fitting instructions that came with the reg. Hand written in the top corner it says RR 451, but printed next to it RR51. I also decked the website and the picture shows a reg/rec without sense wire, but description says it has one. I don't know if fitting the reg/tec with a sense wire would prevent the battery drain. I always put the drain down to the alarm, hence never questioning the battery discharging.
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Roy
The plot thickens. It turns out that I don't have an RR451, but an RR51 fitted to mine. I'm guessing it was either supplied in error or due to stock limitations.
Fitting instructions here. Same reg/rec, but the difference is the voltage sense being internal from the large red wire directly connected to the battery because the brown wire has been omitted. The confusion has arisen because it says RR451 on the box it came in (just checked). Mine was actually wired as per RR51 instructions.
What I have done this morning is fit a heavy duty relay on the positive feed to the reg/rec so it's disconnected when the ign is off. Result - current drain down to 0.4mA and charge system working fine. The voltage with the lights on is marginally better than when I measured it yesterday, but the battery hasn't been on the battery minder since yesterday, so the readings might be a little more accurate now.
The question now is how do Ducati wire that reg/rec up on their bikes? Not having the separate sense wire and direct wiring would mean that the reg/rec is permanently live, so that would explain the drain. I'd have never even noticed had it not been for Andy asking the question and me checking for him!
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Thanks Roy. Do you think it would be better to make/break the main live or main earth with the relay? I think live due to the reg/rec not being able to find a supply from anywhere else. If I switched the earth it could possibly find another through other circuits (maybe) I already have a 30 amp fused switched relay fitted for something else, but could easily spec up the wiring for a 30 amp charge circuit. The sensor wire for the relay is already switched as far as I can remember.
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If that's the case, why the constant 40.8 mA current draw (on my bike) with the reg connected and only 0.8 mA when it's not. Surely, if no current or voltage is flowing, the battery wouldn't then discharge?
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I'm wondering if an ignition switched relay on the reg/rec wiring to isolate it when switched off would be worth fitting? Easy enough to wire up, but I don't know if it would cause any issues, though.
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Andy.
I've just been out and checked mine according to the Electrex trouble shooting guide that Kiwi-Roy provided.
Test 1 - 40.8mA with all fuses in and reg/rec connected.
0.8mA with all fuses in but reg/rec disconnected.
Both measurements taken with ignition off and in steering locked position.
Test 2 - Battery voltage 13.28v. Dropped to 12.26 and remained constant. Result may be slightly misleading due to battery only just being disconnected from battery minder. Odessey PC545 battery.
Test 3 - Battery voltage as above.
14.15v at idle rising to 14.5v at 3k rpm with lights off.
13.47v at idle rising to 14.01v with lights on.
Mine's charging ok, but I'm a little surprised to see that much current draw. Dropping the earth lead to the battery from the reg/rec seemed to confirm it's that which is draining the current. Typically, mine will be a bit sluggish to turn over if not used for a week or two and not kept on a battery minder of some sort. My TDM, however, can be left for months at a time and never even looked at, let alone topped up!.
Hope this helps.
Trev
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I use a similar setup made by Jofama. Fits nicely with or without the seat hump fitted. Took it over to East Germany on a tour and it worked a treat. Mine came with waterproof inner liners rather than a waterproof cover. Everything stayed dry despite some very heavy rain at times.
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Wired direct as per Electrex instructions, but I don't have a charge light as such. I have a tricolour led. Charge system sits consistently over 13.2 when riding (green) and occasionally drops between 11.8 -13.2 (yellow) with the lights on at idle.
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I have the same reg/rec on mine. I'll have a look over the weekend to check what mine is doing Andy.
PCIII for V11 Sport 2000 substituted?
in Technical Topics
Posted
You're welcome. I think the difference between the pc3 for V11 and M900 must be down to cable length. I have the Duc unit on mine and have loads of spare cable.
From what I've read there are two types of power commander-one for Harleys and one for everything else. On the everything else unit, the firmware is the same for all bikes (upgradeable from dynojet) and it's mainly the plugs and sockets that are different.