amstaf

Creativity was lacking in the mounting system. The unused metal area serving no purpose is unsightly.

Fourteen pages of stuff to digest takes a while so take your time. Seems the Veglia gauges can be sold in a snap. Palo Alto Speedometer bought my speedo but the tach broke and my repair botched rendering it junk. I happened across this indicating a different approach: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Sport-Custom-Aluminum-Gauge-Cluster-with-Koso-RX2N-Gauge-/162841932309

PS, I lucked out with the indexing of the threads to have the pulse generator wires pointing in.

Pulse generator fitting. 7/8” hex. The Dakota Digital device has a 5/8x18 thread. The gear drive nipple that previously mounted the 60 degree cable drive has a 16mmx1.0 thread.

Faces of guages.

So, as near as I can tell, the sensor as shown on page 1 with the magnet and reed switch does not work on newer programmable speedometers. I bought the Dakota Digital pulse generator and it worked from the getgo. I cobbed the supplied 7/8” fitting to attach it to the gear drive. A better way would be to buy 7/8” alum hex stock and tap either end with 16mmx1.0 thread on one end and 5/8x18 thread on the other. This fitting needs to be no more than about 1” to clear the throttle body linkage. To install, the plastic socket of the ball and socket linkage join snaps off. To attach the gauges the supplied threaded collars are used on the factory bracket, and the front (back???) shell is relieved with a coping saw and Dremel tool. Three bolts secure the shell and engage the backs of the threaded inserts used for the center light stack.

Looking for ideas on why my speedometer doesn’t want to work. It is not a GPS model. I made a sending unit using a reed switch like on page 1. One side of the switch has connection to the switched power source. All the positive leads from the speedo hook up to this source also. The other side of the switch goes to the yellow green wire that’s supposed to get the pulse. I can verify with a test light that it’s getting intermittent power while rolling the bike. When I try to calibrate it says there is no signal. They calibrate differently that the one used by Roy. Now, you drive to a preset speed and push the button instead of going a fixed distance.

Me TOOO! After 8 years my tach works! Tiny wire from the coil to the “watchspring.”

I had a late friend who had a Guzzi with a Telefix fork brace that snapped and caused a FIERY crash. Ever since then I just assumed all Guzzis go to the Great Beyond by means of fire. I’d rather my newly assembled bike deferred that demise for a while.

Okay, I’ll post back after remedying. Wondering if I should take the tank back off to look at wiring. Tank was just painted which polished off (after 6 years) the resto/conversion with Lemans Fairing and looks so cool. Docc, another of your posts( or maybe Kiwi) mentions hooking up a volt meter between the frame and the battery negative. If I do that, I should find some voltage if the ground is faulty, and if it is corrected then no voltage. Thanks guys!

No, I meant I am not a professional especially with electrical stuff. Thanks for the quick info. Does that seat lock just pop off after removing the two Allen head fasteners to provide access to the ground? Are improvements recommended to the ground connection? Sorry for asking as I know there’s endless info here. It makes my head spin.

Maybe this isn’t the right place to post a question, after all this time, but I’m having a seemingly related issue with my very sheltered 2000 V11. Just replaced the battery and voltage regulator after bringing it out of hibernation. Light Smoke and plastic like odor comes from under the tank while running. No problem starting/cranking. (Before the battery/regulator replacement I seem to remember this also. The regulator BTW failed the diode test.) I’m thinking this can only be coming from the wiring and probably from ground, judging by the attention given to this issue on the forum. Also, but maybe unrelated, number two or three fuse from rear, 5A had been blown. Any takers? Or maybe I should tow it two hours down to Hamlins and have a professional fix it. Thanks

They were saying the V85 was coming this year. The Griso may be good as a trade for that. I was hearing V85 was supposed to be nearly as light as the Terra, so the Terra could go. At that point, as great a bike as the Tenere is, it may be superfluous, and if so it could go. Bottom line is one dirt bike is required, but too many street bikes are a chore. On the other hand it’s a good collection-not unlike your’s, Scud.

Hey guys thanks. The V11 for me isn’t an “all day” bike which is what causes thoughts of selling. My knees get too sore. The Griso may be, but I haven’t had it long enough to test it, but the Breva could be ridden all day and had a nice soft suspension. Then I caught drift of the new V85 Concept that could replace all of my bikes except the Beta 300. It’s a wonderful thing chasing your tail shopping for bikes except when you run out of room, and time for upkeep.

No, he didn’t buy the bike yet! I’m the seller, and stumbled on this thread somehow. Lots of good background info provided by the longtime dedicated V11LeMans enthusiasts here that I am grateful for. Mine doesn’t have any issues. This thread caused some research for me last few days ferreting out the threads on the cracked gearbox cases,the Sachs shock eyelet failures and the Speedhut gauges. The transmission mounting plate monumental PITA to install. Reminds me of greasing the splines on a K bike. The bike only gets used less than half dozen times a year because most of my riding is either ADV or off-road. I just sold a nice Magni Fairing that was on the bike when I bought it to a guy in Korea for $500. I don’t care too much if I sell this bike because it looks so cool, and the posts here kind of psyched me about it and made me ambivalent. Maybe the Griso will sell instead. What I’d really like is a Breva 1200 Sport to replace them both, and the Breva 1100 I sold last year.