Camn
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Posts posted by Camn
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I once noted from this forum that the Öhlins rear shock would have 10 mm longer stroke than Sachs. The Öhlins stroke is 64 mm, so does the Sachs have 54 mm (assuming the Rosso Mandello in question here does not have White Power)?
From V11sport.de: "the swing ratio is 2:1" => One millimeter more length at the rear shock means two millimeters more rear height. I have a hydraulic spring pre-load adjuster for the rear shock and with the settings I have today, I can add 9 mm "rear height". I use it all when riding with two persons. I would use more if possible (I have not measured the riding height with two persons). So I guess I would start with ca. 15 mm more spring preload for two persons and full bags.
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But it came back on.... A rubber "cap" can be obtained as a Cali -part (12717600) which protects the oil pressure sensor from water (picture - on V11). The gasket of the old oil filter didn't stay on its place on the motor side when replacing the filter ? Two gaskets => oil leak (or loose filter).
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The Workshop Manual "update 04/03" shows in the section R page 48: "Position as shown in the figure - - Ballabio/Marzocchi 32 mm, Cafe Sport/Öhlins 26 mm". I understand this so that the forks of Ballabio should raise up 6 mm more than the forks of Cafe Sport. The older 2002 User Manual 08/2002 (Scura year) says for Öhlins "Sliders should come out from the handle hub by about 2 mm, that is up to the first round mark on the very slider". Now there's a big difference... But the forks seem to be different (Cafe Sport 01490 283/Scura 01490 290).
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Scura wheelbase and rear rim size:
I have one original leaflet "V11 Sport Scura" (avatar on the left) in German language. It gives as "total length" 2150 mm. When compared to the data of the official Workshop Manuals, total lenght 2150 mm corresponds to wheelbase 1490 mm (and total length 2130 mm to wheel base 1471 mm). So (having not measured myself) my interpretation is that the wheelbase of Scura is 1490 mm.
Other Scura specific data of the leaflet: Compression 9,5:1, Hydraulic driven one-disc dry clutch, Front suspension 43 Öhlins with 120 mm stroke, Rear suspension Öhlins with 70 mm stroke, Rim size (back) 5,50x17", Wheel size (back) 180/55-ZR17.
According Guzzi Spare Part Catalog GU01301 for Lemans/Sport Naked 2001-2002 (including Scura and Tenni but not Rosso Mandello) the part numbers for "fork upper plate"/GU01493160 (isn't this the upper tripple clamp) and "stem base"/GU01494060 (steering shaft and lower tripple clamp) are the same for LeMans, LeMans Tenni, Sport Naked and Scura.
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This is "the" V11 thing... you can find stories about it everywhere. Also detailed pictures how to do the repair work. 32.000 km fits the picture.
Here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=10&t=1633&st=0
Germany: http://www.v11sport.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4881&hilit=schaltfeder
Finland: http://www.guzziclub.fi/foorumi/index.php?topic=1973.0
etc.
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I am happy with my oils and do not have any personal recommendations. Here is one "selection robot" (Guzzi: "specs refer to Agib branded products"):
http://eni-ita.lubricantadvisor.com/Advice.aspx?lang=eng&type=954f0940624f1d950b784a0852e063d5
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850-1100-1200 SERIES => V11
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If this helps anything, the ID on my front forks is: FG8470 (additionally the other has numbers 2001.12.25 and the other 2001.12.28). I have understood that these are actually "Öhlins FG43" forks, only made by Guzzi specs (less expensive parts inside).
If yours will pop up, you might wanto to give a thought about the springs / rebuild job. Many have had them changed, I believe. The orginal springs are "08701-90 9.0 N/mm". I have now "08701-10 10.0 N/mm"
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What about the weight of the transmission input gear and the shaft, to which it is fixed ? You could think, that they do not weigh very much and can be "turned easily" (doesn't give noise very much). Then again the "one object" (1,85 kg inside the flywheel) is a mass which is beaten by the "oscillating" flywheel. It can move within the toothing and create noise when idling. The fact that you can find "low noise setting" by using the clutch few times when idling (the clutch plates maybe center themselves better, less unbalance) could point to this direction; the noise comes from the flywheel toothing/toothed plates?
Has somebody the Sachs "racing" clutch plates installed (on a 2 disc clutch) - is there any difference in the "clutch noise" lever pulled / lever free to a "standard clutch"?
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I wonder what it is, that "wears out" the teething most?
As I assumed elsewhere here: when the clutch lever is free (not pressed), the whole "package" inside the flywheel is pressed together and forms "one bundle" . I have marked some V11 clutch part weights down from the German "1100Sport" website: pressure plate 867gr, intermediate plate 266gr, pressure cup 60gr, clutch plates 660gr. This makes a "bundle" of 1853gr, which can move within the teething play, and later within the "wear out", when the machine idles.
Is it the idle or the normal use of the clutch? Maybe the normal use that creates this wear.
Did the clutch noise get bigger (when idling, clutch lever free) as the flywheel spline wear got worse?
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What would change in the clutch over the use that would make it rattle more
This is how I have thought about it: When the clutch lever is not touched, the parts "pressed together" between the first pressure plate and the starter wheel build up a ca.1,85 kg one single "bundle", which can move back and forth within the teething (flywheel/pressure plates). The "wear out" of the teething gets larger, the bundle can move more and more according the storkes of the pistons. More noise. Personally I like the "Guzzi noise" when the lever is pressed but I do not like the noise during the idle when the lever is not touched too much... I guess lighter clutch plates could be the only theorethical help. My new double plate clutch has been in use ca. 15.000 km and it has been always possible to calm down the noise with short clutch 'airings'. Could it be so that the friction plates can place themselves to a bit different positions (within the play of the pinion gear) during the airings and the sound correlates to the "unbalance" (how well the friction plates happen to be centered when the lever is released)?
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My mistake was two years ago, that I had not read anywhere that it's not possible. I greased also the "difficult gease nipple" and read only afterwards, that it can't be done without dismantling half the bike. Beginners luck. Standard grease gun. Of couse it is not easy to get the head of the greasing pipe onto the nipple and you need to force it out with a screwdriver.
PS.(added later)
Maybe this is possible only because the rear shock is Öhlins, it has a longer stroke than the others = more space for the grease gun.
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it down would be interested to see photos of RM clutch. It's a single plate but I always wondered if it's different to Scuras & Tennis
Somebody at the V11sport.de commented that the RM clutch is the same as on Scura and Tenni. I have been wondering if it is exactly the same as the "RAM" single disc clutch still offered today for example for Calis and V11s. I tend to think that it is mainly the same, made my the same producer.
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The GuzziDiag tools are made for the original Magneti-Marelli ecus (15M or 15RC / V11). You can always find an original one and start using GuzziDiag tools. The latest big thing around this "talk of the global Guzzisti -community" was proudly presented few days ago: there is a very easy "lambda off" -function for the 15RC ecu (comes with the latest 15RC -xdf file used with the TunerPro -editor). If "lambda off" has been done, the CO value can be adjusted with the GuzziDiag OBD tool "manually" as with the 15M ecu always.
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(faux) carbon
Mine has also quite a lot of it (chin plates, seat guard, clamps for the silencers, etc.), done by the ex owners.
(With this type of process:)
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hooks on my OEM stand sit just a wee bit (
Same with me, it needed some rough force (hammer) to adjust the width. If you find sockets, which are on sale on "pegs", then there might be nice plastic handles ready fixed to the sockets. Just glue or tape them more "fixed" and you have handles as well...
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(You don't need any boards under it to take the wheels out):
For example: http://www.valpolini.com/index.php/home-en/prodotto?&fID=1084
(same stand for V11) Guzzi spare part #: 009797171 "Service central stand". I have two 18 mm (1/2") sockets for the nuts on the Guzzi frame to protect the nuts. The stand grabs on the sockets.
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I didn't know about the relay
And isn't the lights relay (34) controlled by the starter relay (23) through its normally closed contact (lights out when you start). So if not the lights relay then the starter relay? But if the problem is here, also the lights (and the two red warning lights for oil pressure and generator) should be off ?
PS. The Guzzidiag -software has also a function "test rev counter". It only makes it show a value for a certain time, but at least you can test the rev counter with it.
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For those nearer Europe:
I remember reading from the German Forum, that in Germany there still is a person (hopefully not retired), who can repair the irreplaceable veglia tachs. This is the text from their web page: "the reason for the common brake-up of the tach is a small coil, on which the thin wire brakes becaue of the vibration. We can help with a new winding on the coil with silicone added on the critical points to prevent the problem from repeating"
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I could also find some of the parts second hand. The most expensive (official list prices at that time) parts were the 1067930 Sprocket wheel for starter V11 (“300€”) and 4067000 Flywheel V11 (“480€”). I could think that these will not suffer a lot in use? I assume that the most important thing on the flywheel is the inner toothing, how much it has worn out (= "noise level"). On the contratry, I think that I have read on some forums, that the 4211600 Friction plate with sprockets (“126€”) sometimes gets twisted, the 3008290 Pressure plate for springs (“150€”) maybe not so much ? The friction material itself is discussed a lot. I decided to use the same parts, which are said to be also the original spare parts ("ap").
Here are also detailed pictures how the parts really look like (in the middle, "motoguzznix"), the 1-disc/2-disc flywheels are much more different than what you might think of by looking at the spare part pictures: http://www.v11sport.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1937&hilit=2+scheiben+umbau&start=75
The only thing which disturbs me now a bit, is the noise level when idling clutch lever released (not the noise -part of the fun- when the clutch lever is pulled). This "idling noise" has been noteworthy all the time, allthough "all the parts were new" and the work was done by a very experienced technician. I try to imagine what is happening inside the clutch and calm down by thinking that it is just the friction plate toothing against the flywheel toothing and the twitch of the power stroke of the motor. As everybody is mostly saying - when the V11 clutch sounds like this, it is OK.
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I have not made any notes who and where wrote it, I have just made notes from different threads, when I have ran into a number:
V11LeMans.com: Scura R/18, Coppa Italia/122, LeMans Tenni/170, LeMans Nero Corsa/200, Rosso Mandello/300, Scura/700.
V11sport.de: Scura was built alltogether 750.
If a model sells, who wouldn't make an additinal series...
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I had mine made 6/2011, these are the parts which were used (the terms I use are not "too official"). There has been some discussion about the push rod 01085730, but according my spare part book the number is the same for 2 plate clutches. Some adjustment was needed on the clutch lever and adjustment screw (for the work cylinder), because it released so "late" with the 2 disc clutch (as if the push rod should be a bit shorter).
(Parts only > 1.000€)
12082300 Intermediate clutch ring 1
4082800 Clutch pressure plate V11 1
3008290 Pressure plate for springs 1
1067930 Sprocket wheel for starter 1
4067000 Flywheel V11 1
4211600 Friction plate with sprockets 1
95628025 Nut safety washer 1
93601026 Nut 1
4084100 Clutch spring V11 10
12067701 M8 x 25 bolt, 10.9 6
14615901 M8 Washer zn 6
37067705 M6 x 12 socket cap 12.9 sw 8
142217901 M6 Washer 8
14217901 Lock washer 6,4x10x0,7 8
3084400 Clutch plate Ap 2
90404059 Shaft gasket gear shaft 1
90405367 Shaft gasket crankshaft 1
90706233 O-ring for clutch boss 1
90718370 Gasket exhaust pipe 22 disc:
http://www.stein-dinse.biz/bilder/auto/breite_800/303033303013.gif
1 disc:
http://www.wendelmotorraeder.de/shop/images/guzzi/1100/v11_99/v1199_36.gif
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"I guess I download and mail my .bin file off to the GuzziDiag developers to convert to XDF so I can see or edit the map in Tunerpro. Can I generate an edited bin or do I have to send off the edited XDF to the GuzziDiag developers again to convert back to bin so I can import again?"
You just send once your *.bin file to Guzzidiag developers. They will not touch or convert it, they just store it for the database. You will get from them as a reward the *.xdf -file, which you import to your TunerPro. The sending of the *.bin file... I think our friends at the "Guzzidiag labs" just use it as a means to get their maps database larger and larger
. After having received the *.xdf -file, you will need nobody... you can admire the contents of our Ecu, do changes and upload it all back to our ecu. The developers wrote that they estimate that there are 300-400 active Guzzidiag users out there. There must be quite a few V11 maps also in their hands. I would not be surprised, if you would get some maps from them which you can try out or use as a base for alterations of your own.This was very educational for me: http://www.bikeboy.org/fuelinjection.html. Only the writer speaks about milliseconds and as discused before, on the Weber-Marellis of Guzzis the values are not so straight forward.
Intake hoses - do we need them? Lose or keep?
in Technical Topics
Posted
http://www.bikeboy.org/v11sport.html
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We ran the bike all std, then removed the little air snorkel thingys from the air box entry tubes. Which made a little more noise and gave maybe a tad more mid range to top end power.
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