Motormike

Payment sent, Scud. Thanks again.

Yes, I've spent more time on Wildguzzi than here in the past. Now that I'm retired and have more leisure time, that should change. Which begs the question: if a new run of springs is made, what would be the method of notification? Just have to check back here from time to time?

I'm way late to this party as well. (And my eyes are crossed from reading 41 pages!) I was unaware of the spring breakage problem, mine hasn't let go (yet). But I want a spare in any event, so if you have another run made, put me down for one (or two, if need be to get the run started.)

Man, am I getting behind (and old!). Can't believe I didn't come back here and mark SOLD on that "B" kit. I still get an occasional text asking about it.

Yes, but in a few places, the scratches have removed the paint well up onto the edge of the rim. Like I said, someone must have used hammers and chisels to change the tires. I thought the color might be just paint, as it looked too thin (and fragile) to be powder coat. I know a good paint man, when it's time to replace the tires, I'll see if he can work his magic on the rims.

Haven't posted here in forever, but I have a simple question I hope someone can answer with conviction: Are the rims on the various V11 models painted or powder-coated? I have a 2003 v11 Sport, and the rims have always looked as though a previous owner used cold chisels to change the tires. I'd like to get them re-done. Getting a match with paint would be much easier and cheaper than powder-coat or (heaven forbid !$$$$) replacing the wheels. Thanks.

I have a Moto Guzzi "B" lifter roller kit for sale. Part Number 1A002063 for 2009-10 model 8 valve motors. I'm only asking $400.00 plus shipping, which is more than 50% below retail! If you are familiar with the MG 8 valve engine, you know the OEM flat tappets fail prematurely, and it needs to be converted to roller lifters before the entire engine is damaged. If you know anyone that might have an early 8 valve Griso, Stelvio or Norge, point them in my direction. You'll be doing both of us a favor. I don't get on this site much, so call or text 770-331-7868 if interested.

Well, I FINALLY got that sucker! Ordered a 12 inch extension pipe from McMaster-Carr and bent the tip like Rossi46 did. Used heat, but was still afraid the tube would crack, but it didn't. Then I had to file and grind down the bottom half of the coupler for it to slip over the nipple, but I finally got it. All you need in lieu of a full machine shop is a gas torch and a bench grinder. Or, like me, you could put blisters on your hands using a metal file for an hour. Anyway, it's done and back together. I'd post pics, but I'm on my third celebratory beer, so they'd all be out of focus!

Well, I'm just about at strike three. Removed the rear wheel, still couldn't reach the zerk. Took off the gearbox and still couldn't get anything onto that zerk. I don't know where you guys are finding grease guns with rigid metal lines. Every Ace Hardware and Auto Zone, etc. I've been to only has the flex line ones. Tried a needle, got lots of grease around the uni, but none in it. Tried the Ace Hardware swivel fitting with the same abysmal results. Tomorrow I pull the fucking swing arm off. Maybe then I can grease the front, uni-joint. (but I'm not counting on it.)

Like I said, the real problem is figuring out a way to remove the little dust cap. Once I take the thing apart and remove the cap, I'll just leave it off for better access next time.

That front frigging zerk is MISSION IMPOSSIBLE! Not only can I not get a grease gun tip anywhere near it, I can't even figure out a way to remove the little red dust cap. My longest needle nose pliers won't even begin to reach into that black hole. I'll just have to take the whole frigging rear wheel and swingarm off the bike, all for a couple of shots of grease. I can't believe someone hasn't figured out a way to grind or modify the guard to make the nipple assessable. Can the uni-joint be reversed so the zerk faces forward? Then you could reach it through one of the holes in the guard. What a PITA! I'm sure mine has never been greased in years, maybe since it left Italy! Maybe I'll just wait till the uni-joint explodes and takes a big chunk out of the guard....I'll be able to reach it then!

Found the OEM plastic elbow on Guzzibits. $31.50 US. Ouch!

Thanks, lots of good photos there that show the problem. Not so much as to the best way to go about a repair. I found it interesting that in the photos of the fuel pump flange, there is only one fuel line fitting (fuel out) and no return line(?) I've never heard of a fuel injection system that does not have a return line to the tank. Funny how each one of these bike is a "one off." No two seem quite the -same. My research found that McMaster-Carr sells stainless steel elbows rated for gasoline. Might be the best way to go. Have to wait until I have a reason to pull the fuel pump. As I said, it's not leaking now, so I'll leave well enough alone until it's time to change the filter.

So, I'm the ony Guzzi owner thats ever had a broken plastic quick release fuel fitting? Anybody?

Well, as I get to know my 2004 Coppa , I find more things that are not quite right about it. Always a risk when you buy a used bike. Just noticed that the PO or his mechanic must have broken off one of the plastic fuel tank elbows (the white one) and has also removed both quick release fittings on the fuel lines and just using common hose clamps. The missing white fitting has been replace with a brass elbow. Don't know how well it was fitted to the plate just yet, as the tank is full of gas, and will have to wait for a closer inspection. The red plastic fitting is still there, but appears to have a very slight leak (weep). I know the plastic elbows are not available as a separate part, and are a common part to break. I'll replace the hose clamps with Oetiker ear clamps, but what is the best way to deal with the leaking or broken plastic elbows?

Finally decided to bite the bullet and installed a pair of new EBC rotors and pads. Must admit, looks great. Test ride soon as weather allows. Yeah!

Looking for thoughts and ideas as I chase down a front brake problem on a 2004 Coppa Italia. The front disks pulse badly, becoming much more noticable as the bike slows to a stop. It's very much an on/off effect of "grab...release...grab...release" sensation, as if I were applying and releasing the brake lever. No pulsing or movement at the lever that I can detect. I just finished lifting the front wheel and putting a digital dial indicator on the disks. Almost no runout to speak of, maybe a couple thousands or so. So small it was hard to measure. So I think it must be something else than the usual "warped disk" blame. I've tried the easy stuff, like cleaning and spinning the carrier buttons. I'm thinking about buying a small brake hone and using it on the disks (tried scotch brite pads) plus some new brake pads. Is there any chance the master cylinder could be leaking? Like fluid by-passing the piston causing the grab..release sensation I'm getting? I'm getting stumped. The bike is all but unridable as it is now.

Couple of good sources for quality hardware. Thanks guys.

New guy here. Just purchased a 2004 Coppa Italia. Many bikes in the past, but my first Goose. Trying to sort it all out a bit. The bike came with what looks to be the factory luggage rack. But whoever mounted it did a hack (as in hack saw) job using a couple of Hex head bolts through the muffler/pax peg carrier and the rack supports. I hate it when cheap or ill fitting hardware is used instead of the correct parts. But I'm stumped trying to find the correct "allen cap screw" bolts. Looks like I need something called a "low socket cap screw" in 8x1.25 but I can't source any. Any ideas out there? I'd love to see what the correct hardware that came with the rack looks like.