sp838
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Posts posted by sp838
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I wonder if it's too soon to suggest a Luck Phil x Chuck shifter plate upgrade, as shown in Docc photo above. Are there still any more available? Paging Chuck and/or Lucky Phil...
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Welcome! Shifting gremlins are probably the number one issue with these awesome bikes. Nothing to feel bummed out about, it's par for the course and I'm pretty sure every V11 owner has had to fiddle with their shifting to a lesser or greater degree. This is a Moto Guzzi! Even though this is considered their first mostly successful attempt at a modern transmission, it will still always have a certain "agricultural" nature. You'll find lots of help here to get it as good as it can be.
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12 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
Sorry if I misled you in a previous post.
No worries! That's what we're here for, to hash things out until we hipefully get it right...
6 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:Scud can you take a twin plate hub and grind the face down to fit the single plater
I was wonder the same thing...
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Thanks! I just found the photo and I see what you mean. And I was mistaken about the MGS-01, now that I look at it again I see it has the double clutch plate setup.
Fingers crossed, I think I may have found a NOS single disc hub. Purchased it and am praying it will arrive safely in the mail... This job won't happen until the winter anyway, I am now in the gathering parts and courage phase of the operation.
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Hey Docc! Thanks for posting this. So it seems then according to those discussions, that the hub I linked to won't work after all, the conclusion was that the only hub that would work is the (no longer available) one from the single disc bikes: GU01211640
Scud seems pretty adamant about only the single clutch hubs being compatible.
However, looking again at the parts fiche for the MGS-01,
which has the same single plate clutch as the Scura, Tenni, etc., it uses the hub from the double plate 6 speeders, the one still commonly available: GU04211600So what's the deal with these hubs then??? Are they actually interchangeable?
As far as the pushrod issue goes, that seems like it's not the worst thing in the world. The nub at the end needs to be turned down a bit to mate with the engagement button in the RAM part. I have very good machinists in my circle of friends, thankfully.
EDIT: my apologies, the MGS-01 has a double disc setup... Looking at parts diagrams on a small iPhone screen is not necessarily the best idea
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23 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
unless you can source a std single disk pushrod
Looking at part numbers, it appears that the clutch pushrod for single disc and double disc bikes is the same: GU01085730
I'm looking at the parts fiches for my bike (2001 V11 Sport Naked - double disc) and comparing to the MGS-01 Corsa which is single disc. They both use the same pushrod...
V11 Sport Naked parts:
https://www.af1racing.com/store/ProdImages/st3/GU013.pdf
MGS-01 parts:
https://www.af1racing.com/store/ProdImages/st3/GU076.pdf
The 2002 Scura and Tenni, both single disc clutch, also appear to use the same pushrod
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So from a Scura for example?
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I have a rear luggage rack from Hepco Becker along with a topcase that latches to the rack. Sturdy and works well, functional though not very pretty:
https://www.motomachines.com/hepco-becker-rear-rack-moto-guzzi-v-11-sport-naked-le-mans-from-01-cafe-sport-ballbio-scura-coppa-italia
The case has a "backrest" of sorts moulded into the side that faces forward. -
That's the last piece of the puzzle, but should be the least difficult part to sort out... *famous last words*
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Grazie mille!
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3 hours ago, Lucky Phil said:
you can use your original one if its not badly worn.
Ok so it's an OEM part then. Still trying to decipher which one you mean. I found this on MG Cycle, is this it? Harpers also has it for a little less but this page has a photo:
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Thanks for the reply... Not sure I fully understand which part you mean by input drive spline. Is this an OEM part? Wouldn't I be able to use the input drive spline already in my bike? If not, is it an aftermarket part of some sort? Grazie!
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Hello all! Long long time no chat, I hope everyone and their Guzzi are well!
So I stumbled on this the other day while surfing the 'tubes: https://hmb-guzzi.de/RAM-single-disc-clutch
I've been kicking myself for not getting a RAM clutch for my bike years ago, was wondering if this one would work in my 2001 V11 Sport Naked. Credit card is burning a hole in my pocket...
Thanks for any insights! Cheers
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Thanks guys. Pretty sure the axle is one thickness all the way across where it matters. Also pretty sure the later wheels have the same hub dimensions, just the wheel rim is wider. My Marvic wheel has a wider rim.
I looked on ebay, my usual source, and came up empty, so Scud, I may take you up on that.
How is everyone??? Been a while. I've had a very busy summer, sorry for not participating. Hope everyone is well.
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As the title says, I need a rear axle. My bike is an '01, I don't think the part changed over the course of the model life. If anyone has one to spare, let me know. I really just need to borrow it for a while, I can return it if you wanted it back. I am hoping to make one out of 7068 alloy and need a spare for reference. I'd rather not pull mine out and have the bike be immobilized while I'm having it done.
I can be messaged via this site, or directly at maydaymoto@gmail.com
Thanks for your help!
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Rectifier passes the diode test. Thinking it's the reg. as well. Unfortunately there's no way to really "test" that.
Idle speed is 1k. I've always had around 14.5 at idle, even back when the bike was bone stock...
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So, little update, I first tested parasitic loss at the – terminal, only 1mA which is what I was hoping to see. My speedo draws that to store mileage and GPS location. I then tested to see if the bike was charging, and it appears to be: 14.4V at idle, then as I went up the rev range, it dropped down to around 12V at 2K, then back up to 13V at 3K, and around 14.5V at 5K RPM.
So it's charging. All the while, the idiot light on the dash was solidly on. No flickering, no turning off then back on again. I'll do the diode test this evening, thinking I might also do an AC test on the stator. I might also wire up a temporary idiot light to the r/r just to see if it's the idiot light wiring in the harness that is to blame. Hoping that's it.
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Thanks guys. I'll take those measurements, and will also do the diode test on the r/r tonight, as well as check voltage at idle.
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My charging system warning light is not turning off after I start the bike. Went out for a ride yeaterday, it flickered and then turned itself off after I pulled away so I thought, "a little weird but probably ok", but then after I got up to speed it came back on and stayed on solid, so after a few miles of watching it and hoping to see it turn back off, I decided to turn around, hurried home, and put a voltmeter on the battery expecting to see it show that it was being drained. Battery read 14.17V.
Bike performed normally otherwise, idled fine, lights worked etc. I checked the wires for the r/r, all looked good. Ground wire is happy, yellow wires to the alternator are good, red wire out to battery seems fine, blue wire which sends the warning to the dash is clearly ok too. Did not look into the alternator yet. Did not check with voltmeter while running at idle yet.
Any ideas as to what might be going on / where to look around first?
Thanks!
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I attached it to the spine.
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Hmmm. So aside from longer lasting steel flywheel and easier clutch operation, it would be on par with the conventional lightened one from a performance standpoint? Lower weight results in lower inertia, one way or another methinks, or am I still missing something?
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Hey Scud, thanks for the link, I've already been on that thread and still don't really understand the difference, and specifically what makes the RAM product special and different from a lightened flywheel/clutch plate package. What's the remedial version? I was under the impression that it all came down to weight reduction of the spinning parts.
Stock V11 Sport 2001 bin file
in Technical Topics
Posted
The greatest advantage of the Power Commander boxes is that they allow a motorcycle to be tuned in real time on a dyno while the motorcycle is running. You can't do that with downloading / editing / uploading BIN files to the ECU, which is basically a crappy old school bare bones computer, on our machines at best early 90s technology, that needs to be rebooted every time you do anything with it. While it's definitely nice to be able to get in to the ECU and tweak things on your own, booking a dyno session and having a AF map tailored to your bike is really the best way to get it running right for your needs. Especially if you've made any mods to the bike, be it intake, exhaust or engine work etc.